New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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I'm talking more about how Conan is slow for the first generation, and I'm not really trying to make a small beer with no hops just to use a yeast for the name. I've had it stall half way on me, and maybe I just had bad experiences but it just didn't seem worth it.



I have no problem using liquid yeast vs dry, I really don't think there's any difference in the amount of effort it takes to use one vs the other, I just like the convenience of dru yeast not expiring as quickly, and I think the attenuation of s-04 makes it more versatile for other styles.

But to each his own
 
Braufessor, did you get any "overhopped" flavors from dry hopping for so long (day 2)? Many people say "7 days max. 4-5 days are best" but is that actually true??
 
Hey all! Figured I'd jump in and post what I have landed on after tweaking my recipe over the last few months.

Northeastern IPA with Conan X WLP644 hybrid

10 gallons packaged (about 11.75 gallons post boil)
OG 1.064
62% Pearl malt
28% German wheat malt
3% Naked oats
7% Roller oats

FWH
1 oz Simcoe
1 oz X331 experimental hop
(about 40 IBUs calculated)

Whirlpool
3 oz Simcoe 170° f 30 minutes
3 oz X331 experimental hop 170° f 30 minutes
(with my electric system I can hold temp at set point)

Chill to 64°f, 11 gallons split into two carboys pitched pitch 1200ml decanter starter of F1 Conan X WLP644 hybrid (hybrid, not a blend) into well oxygenated wort. Set the follow fermentation schedule on 2 individually STC1000+ in dorm fridges for each carboy.

Ramping between
66°f to 70°f over 72 hours >
70°f to 75° over 96 hours

*3 oz Galaxy dry hop 7.5 days in primary just after high krausen started to fall (2.5 days after pitching yeast)

Co2 purged, closed transfer
5 oz Galaxy spilt keg hopped in weighed hop sacks one week at room temp then chilled to serving temp and left in for the duration of the kegs life.

FG 1.009 grain to glass 10 days.

I brewed a few batches with Conan and was happy with the results as it was pleasantly fruity but even with a low mash temp it left too much residual sugar/sweetness for my liking.
I haven't read every post in this thread so forgive me if the yeast has been discussed for this style:
With the hybrid cross of Conan and Sacc. Trois WLP644 we have a fast starting, higher attenuating, super fruity, non-phenolic yeast with decent mouth feel = best of both worlds in a single strain! I'm super critical of my beers and always can find a flaw but not this one, hands down the best beer I've brewed since first home brewing 10 years ago and it is, as with most beer, the yeast!
If you want to learn more about the Conan X WLP644: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=577066
 
runs4beer said:
Hey all! Figured I'd jump in and post what I have landed on after tweaking my recipe over the last few months.

Northeastern IPA with Conan X WLP644 hybrid

10 gallons packaged (about 11.75 gallons post boil)
OG 1.064
62% Pearl malt
28% German wheat malt
3% Naked oats
7% Roller oats

FWH
1 oz Simcoe
1 oz X331 experimental hop
(about 40 IBUs calculated)

Whirlpool
3 oz Simcoe 170° f 30 minutes
3 oz X331 experimental hop 170° f 30 minutes
(with my electric system I can hold temp at set point)

Chill to 64°f, 11 gallons split into two carboys pitched pitch 1200ml decanter starter of F1 Conan X WLP644 hybrid (hybrid, not a blend) into well oxygenated wort. Set the follow fermentation schedule on 2 individually STC1000+ in dorm fridges for each carboy.

Ramping between
66°f to 70°f over 72 hours >
70°f to 75° over 96 hours

*3 oz Galaxy dry hop 7.5 days in primary just after high krausen started to fall (2.5 days after pitching yeast)

Co2 purged, closed transfer
5 oz Galaxy spilt keg hopped in weighed hop sacks one week at room temp then chilled to serving temp and left in for the duration of the kegs life.

FG 1.009 grain to glass 10 days.

I brewed a few batches with Conan and was happy with the results as it was pleasantly fruity but even with a low mash temp it left too much residual sugar/sweetness for my liking.
I haven't read every post in this thread so forgive me if the yeast has been discussed for this style:
With the hybrid cross of Conan and Sacc. Trois WLP644 we have a fast starting, higher attenuating, super fruity, non-phenolic yeast with decent mouth feel = best of both worlds in a single strain! I'm super critical of my beers and always can find a flaw but not this one, hands down the best beer I've brewed since first home brewing 10 years ago and it is, as with most beer, the yeast!
If you want to learn more about the Conan X WLP644: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=577066
Click to expand...

I am digging the sound of this yeast! I experience all the same pitfalls with the NEIPA yeasts they leave it a bit too sweet.

Also +1 on the X331, killer hop strain!
 
EndOfLine said:
Braufessor, did you get any "overhopped" flavors from dry hopping for so long (day 2)? Many people say "7 days max. 4-5 days are best" but is that actually true??
Click to expand...

No. In general, the only time I have ever had any trouble with "overhopped" flavors has been when I have used crappy hops. In those cases.... the amount and the time never really seemed to matter that much - bad hops, bad flavors. Good hops, good flavors.
 
Ashevillain said:
+1 on the X331, killer hop strain!
Click to expand...

Yea, really like it too. The lack of "catty" and "BO" and make it very nice even for this style. I originally picked it up from Farmhouse supply but they have been out of stock for sometime, do you know a source that currently has it onhand?
 
Ashevillain said:
+1 on the X331, killer hop strain!
Click to expand...

Yea, really like it too. The lack of "cattyness" and "BO" makes it a good fit for this style. I originally picked it up from Farmhouse brewing supply but they have been out of stock for sometime, do you know a source that currently has it onhand?
 
runs4beer said:
Yea, really like it too. The lack of "cattyness" and "BO" makes it a good fit for this style. I originally picked it up from Farmhouse brewing supply but they have been out of stock for sometime, do you know a source that currently has it onhand?
Click to expand...

That is the only source I'm aware of, they seem to stagger their release of it i wouldn't be suprised to see it available soon. I checked for about 2 months before it was available.
 
I just posted in the Treehouse Julius Clone thread so some of you may have seen this before, but does anyone have a New England Fuzzy Baby Ducks clone or idea. Just had that beer and it was so good! Sorry for being a little off topic.
 
Question regarding Braufessor NE IPA (post #1418). I got my water tested and I've been playing around in Brun Water. What is the Water Volume (gal) for the Mash and then for the Sparge that need to be inputted?
 
WoodsonNoles said:
Question regarding Braufessor NE IPA (post #1418). I got my water tested and I've been playing around in Brun Water. What is the Water Volume (gal) for the Mash and then for the Sparge that need to be inputted?
Click to expand...

I will vary based on the size of your batch, boil volume as well as grain weight. More than likely you're probably pretty close to 4 gallons for each but I know you didn't ask me.
 
Ok one more total noob question: In BruNWater in the section on the Water Adjustment tab where it asks for Water Volume for the Mash and then Sparge should I put the actual amount I will be using or the total amount of water I'll be heating up? I always heat up more water than I'll need.
 
WoodsonNoles said:
Ok one more total noob question: In BruNWater in the section on the Water Adjustment tab where it asks for Water Volume for the Mash and then Sparge should I put the actual amount I will be using or the total amount of water I'll be heating up? I always heat up more water than I'll need.
Click to expand...

"Total Water Additions" for Mash and Sparge are how much you'll be using of both for the batch. "Total Batch Volume" is how much wort you are planning to get into the fermentor.

If you are heating up more water than you are using, I would assume for the sparge, you should use the total amount (including the additional) in the sparge amount. Otherwise you'll end up diluting the sparge water and your profile won't be accurate.
 
TheHopfather said:
"Total Water Additions" for Mash and Sparge are how much you'll be using of both for the batch. "Total Batch Volume" is how much wort you are planning to get into the fermentor.

If you are heating up more water than you are using, I would assume for the sparge, you should use the total amount (including the additional) in the sparge amount. Otherwise you'll end up diluting the sparge water and your profile won't be accurate.
Click to expand...

Great assumed this. If I am heating up additional (strike) water than necessary as well (and then from there) pouring in a specific portion of that water to start the mash should I use the total volume of that for the Mash Total Volume water on the water adjustment tab iwthin BruNWater as well and treat that whole batch of water so it doesn't throw things off?

Also I can add all my additions (Lactic Acid, Gypsum, etc.) before I start to heat up my strike temp or should I just wait and add it when I add the specified amount of water to my grains to start the mash (if I did this option I realize my mash water volume within brunwater I can just use the actual water)
 
Every bit of water that goes into the beer at any stage should be treated with the appropriate grams/gallon ratio. So, you can either make the additions as you add the water or you can treat all of it right from the very beginning.
If you are dealing with a quart here or there - it is no big deal. If you are adding gallons.... it should be treated.

I add all mine before I start heating.
 
Braufessor said:
Every bit of water that goes into the beer at any stage should be treated with the appropriate grams/gallon ratio. So, you can either make the additions as you add the water or you can treat all of it right from the very beginning.
If you are dealing with a quart here or there - it is no big deal. If you are adding gallons.... it should be treated.

I add all mine before I start heating.
Click to expand...

Cannot thank you enough. My final question. For your NE IPA recipe I wanted to make sure I read your section on water correct. Is the part below what you are trying to get to by treating your water (so your desired water profile?)

Ca = 100
Mg = 5
Na = 13
Sulfate = 147
Chloride = 80
Bicarbonate = 16
 
WoodsonNoles said:
Cannot thank you enough. My final question. For your NE IPA recipe I wanted to make sure I read your section on water correct. Is the part below what you are trying to get to by treating your water (so your desired water profile?)

Ca = 100
Mg = 5
Na = 13
Sulfate = 147
Chloride = 80
Bicarbonate = 16
Click to expand...

Yes..... but, to be honest, I vary what I do with water. Basically, as long as the Sulfate and Chloride are both somewhere in the 75-150 range, you will be alright. I would say, recently, I have been going around 120ppm on both. Honestly, there is not a "huge" difference within that range in my opinion. Once you brew it a few times, you can kind of play around with it a bit and see if you have a preference.
 
Braufessor said:
Yes..... but, to be honest, I vary what I do with water. Basically, as long as the Sulfate and Chloride are both somewhere in the 75-150 range, you will be alright. I would say, recently, I have been going around 120ppm on both. Honestly, there is not a "huge" difference within that range in my opinion. Once you brew it a few times, you can kind of play around with it a bit and see if you have a preference.
Click to expand...

Do you mind explaining the below part a bit? Is this keg just storing the beer at room temperature or are you cooling it at a certain temperature? I'm guessing for the beer in the fermentor (before you move to the dry hopping keg) it sounded like you were just keeping it at 62-64 degrees?

That link below doesn't work anymore. I haven't kegged before but plan on getting the supplies this weekend. Im sure I'll find some articles on CO2 purging as that is a new one for me.

**Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to CO2 purged dry hopping keg with
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy
(I use this strategy: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09...no-oxygen.html )
 
WoodsonNoles said:
Do you mind explaining the below part a bit? Is this keg just storing the beer at room temperature or are you cooling it at a certain temperature? I'm guessing for the beer in the fermentor (before you move to the dry hopping keg) it sounded like you were just keeping it at 62-64 degrees?

That link below doesn't work anymore. I haven't kegged before but plan on getting the supplies this weekend. Im sure I'll find some articles on CO2 purging as that is a new one for me.

**Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to CO2 purged dry hopping keg with
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy
(I use this strategy: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09...no-oxygen.html )
Click to expand...

Here is the link - this one should work..... at least it worked for me: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html

I don't really do anything with temperature. My house has pretty stable temps with air conditioning. So, I start fermenting at 62-64 degrees. I finish and dry hop probably in the 68-70 range. No cold crashing. I do move the fermenter back to my basement a couple days before kegging and that is more in the 64 degree range.

Recently though, I have been just doing both dry hops in the primary fermenter and that has worked pretty well also. Several different approaches that can all work well and people have had success with.
 
Braufessor said:
Here is the link - this one should work..... at least it worked for me: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html

I don't really do anything with temperature. My house has pretty stable temps with air conditioning. So, I start fermenting at 62-64 degrees. I finish and dry hop probably in the 68-70 range. No cold crashing. I do move the fermenter back to my basement a couple days before kegging and that is more in the 64 degree range.

Recently though, I have been just doing both dry hops in the primary fermenter and that has worked pretty well also. Several different approaches that can all work well and people have had success with.
Click to expand...

Thans again! Yea was leaning toward doing both dry-hopping in the primary and then getting it to the keg. Was thinking Carbonating at 2.1 CO2/vol and serving at 38F or so. Sound about right?
 
Thats fine. It will take a while to carb unless you force carb first though
Click to expand...

You need to get a Blichmann quick carb! :) The thing is awesome for the patience challenged brewer. I will usually move to keg, put the keg in the keezer and then next day run it through the quickcarb for 45-60 mins. Boom ready to go.
 
1st attempt at a NEIPA. Also, first time kegging. Definitely the best beer I have ever brewed.

20170621_181841.jpg
 
Super crazy wow man... Attempted a TH SAP clone, used TYB Conan 3rd generation that I revived from Feb, went from 1.062 to 1.013 in 80 hrs. Fermented at 66f

Anyone else experience this?
 
Sbe2 said:
Super crazy wow man... Attempted a TH SAP clone, used TYB Conan 3rd generation that I revived from Feb, went from 1.062 to 1.013 in 80 hrs. Fermented at 66f

Anyone else experience this?
Click to expand...

I've had Conan take mine from 1.064 to 1.018 in around the same time... That was a fresh bought package too. I'm getting ready to use a 2nd generation of it this weekend, but first time around I was really impressed with how fast it worked.
 
Just want to do an update on an awesome hop combo. did one with just over 1 oz/ gallon of simcoe in the hopstand for 90 mins and then did a dryhop with 4:4:1 ounces of citra:mosaic:denali in the dryhop for 6 gallons. Makes a very tropical beer with some of the mosaic resinous/dank and some light pineapple. fantastic! denali is a super strong hop so be careful with it for the pineapple character, but it is a great accent hop!
 
on a side note, has anyone experimented with lupulin powder, aka LupuLN2, aka cryhops for IPAs? I am very excited about them but am not sure if they are worth the hype. I know Kimmich from Alchemist likes them in the whirlpool a lot. I thought maybe we can pack more hop flavor into our beers with less of the vegetal/tannic element that comes out, especially in lower ABV beers
 
stickyfinger said:
on a side note, has anyone experimented with lupulin powder, aka LupuLN2, aka cryhops for IPAs? I am very excited about them but am not sure if they are worth the hype. I know Kimmich from Alchemist likes them in the whirlpool a lot. I thought maybe we can pack more hop flavor into our beers with less of the vegetal/tannic element that comes out, especially in lower ABV beers
Click to expand...

Pint House Pint in Austin uses them. They say powder is added to the finished beer then after 5min, filtered out. PhP makes world class IPAs so apparently it works.
 
PianoMan said:
Pint House Pint in Austin uses them. They say powder is added to the finished beer then after 5min, filtered out. PhP makes world class IPAs so apparently it works.
Click to expand...

I'm wondering if the main advantage is less wort lost or if the hop character can be more intense without the vegetal. thanks for the info.
 
When does everyone sample their beer during the process? When fermenting, racking or out of the tap/bottle?
 
Sbe2 said:
When does everyone sample their beer during the process? When fermenting, racking or out of the tap/bottle?
Click to expand...

For the one I just made I took my first sample off the conical fermentor when blowoff activity began to slow down (day 4-ish w/ Conan @ 64-68F). Just to get a good feel for how much longer I have / if I need to ramp up to 70ish to squeeze any extra out of it etc..

If you're in a carboy I wouldn't bother sampling, wouldn't want to risk the oxygen exposure.
 
WoodsonNoles said:
Do you mind explaining the below part a bit? Is this keg just storing the beer at room temperature or are you cooling it at a certain temperature? I'm guessing for the beer in the fermentor (before you move to the dry hopping keg) it sounded like you were just keeping it at 62-64 degrees?

That link below doesn't work anymore. I haven't kegged before but plan on getting the supplies this weekend. Im sure I'll find some articles on CO2 purging as that is a new one for me.

**Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to CO2 purged dry hopping keg with
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy
(I use this strategy: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09...no-oxygen.html )
Click to expand...

Here you go: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html
 
Sbe2 said:
When does everyone sample their beer during the process? When fermenting, racking or out of the tap/bottle?
Click to expand...

At this point.... I sample it about 5 minutes before it goes in the keg..... I pour off about a pint or so out of the fermenter to kind of blow out the yeast/hop debris before it goes into the fermenter. Other than that, I don't really sample it at all.
 

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