My Ugly Junk- Corona Mill Station...

[TX_Brewing]

My new ugly junk! Kinda nice isn't it?
Built in a few hours. Total cost : 0 dollarz

Mods please move this post, it is off topic as it is certainly not ugly junk!!

Seriously, nice job!!

 

[moreb33rplz]

Rather than post the bolt size, the easiest and surest thing to do is to take the handle bolt from your mill to the hardware store. Buy a bolt with this threads 3-4 " long, cut the head off the bolt and insert into drill chuck.

Other variations include putting a socket in your drill to drive the bolt.

Think I've got a bolt and socket bit that is compatible, but my cordless drill makes a sad, dying sound when I start milling. I saw a link to HF you posted a few years back for a drlll, but it's gone now. Think this one will get it done?

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-...ty-variable-speed-reversible-drill-61741.html

 

[TX_Brewing]

Think I've got a bolt and socket bit that is compatible, but my cordless drill makes a sad, dying sound when I start milling. I saw a link to HF you posted a few years back for a drlll, but it's gone now. Think this one will get it done?

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-...ty-variable-speed-reversible-drill-61741.html

That's the one I use, it works great! There is also a slow speed drill that is a little more $$ but people seem to like it a lot. I chose this one for the price point and my budget constraints.

 

[moreb33rplz]

Cool, thanks.

 

[imasickboy]

This is the good one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-heavy-duty-spade-handle-drill-93632.html

With the typical 20% off coupon they send out constantly, it's yours for $44.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I saw a link to HF you posted a few years back for a drlll, but it's gone now. Think this one will get it done?

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-...ty-variable-speed-reversible-drill-61741.html

The D-handle drill is not gone...perhaps the link is dead or you didn't look hard enough

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-d-handle-variable-speed-reversible-drill-69453.html

The drill you linked is a little higher speed with less power, while it would likley work, I would suggest one of the other 2 HF drills. The D handle is on sale for 43, and with a coupon is almost free lol....

 

[wilserbrewer]

I saw a link to HF you posted a few years back for a drlll, but it's gone now. Think this one will get it done?

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-...ty-variable-speed-reversible-drill-61741.html

The D-handle drill is not gone...perhaps the link is dead or you didn't look hard enough

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-d-handle-variable-speed-reversible-drill-69453.html

The drill you linked is a little higher speed with less power, while it would likley work, I would suggest one of the other 2 HF drills. The D handle is on sale for 43, and with a coupon is almost free lol....

I'm not sure about the newer models, but best to find a drill where the sppe is controlled by a turn wheel on the hendle, and not the depth of trigger pull, with a separate adjustment, you can lock the drill on and it will stay at the constant low speed needed, with the speed dependent on the trigger, it is not as mindless a task...

 

[phug]

Last eff was 84. After a quarter turn and the power drill treatment it was 88 this time. I'm leaving it there. No more fiddling. Especially since my SG didn't move for the last 15-20 minutes of my mash.

 

[pshankstar]

Thank you all for your thoughts, input and ideas!!! This inspired me to build an ugly junk corona mill!!! I just finished putting mine together!! I haven't tried to mill any grains yet b/c I have two extract kits waiting in my closet waiting to be brewed. But I figure between building this, having everything for my BIAB setup and I bought the grains for my first BIAB brew (vacuumed sealed the grains yesterday after I got home), I figure this will get my butt in gear to brew those two extract kits!! LOL

Anyways, enough rambling here is my ugly junk corona mill!!!

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1456850101.770891.jpg

 

[LBussy]

Guys I have read a good number of these posts. There's no way I'm going to be able to read nearly 200 pages. I did try searches and all that but my target is somewhat generic (drill, thread, etc..)

I am looking for the thread size of the crank handle retainer. I found posts that say "just take it to the hardware store" which is a fine bit of advice. The problem is I will be headed to brew at my buddie's house and I want to bring what I need to motorize. If you look @ Kansas and find the place furthest from everything paved - that's where he lives. A trip to a hardware store is a good hour round-trip. So, any assistance there avoiding one or more of those trips will be highly appreciated. I'll tip a beer in your direction.

 

[pshankstar]

Guys I have read a good number of these posts. There's no way I'm going to be able to read nearly 200 pages. I did try searches and all that but my target is somewhat generic (drill, thread, etc..)

I am looking for the thread size of the crank handle retainer. I found posts that say "just take it to the hardware store" which is a fine bit of advice. The problem is I will be headed to brew at my buddie's house and I want to bring what I need to motorize. If you look @ Kansas and find the place furthest from everything paved - that's where he lives. A trip to a hardware store is a good hour round-trip. So, any assistance there avoiding one or more of those trips will be highly appreciated. I'll tip a beer in your direction.

If my memory serves me right (I tossed the receipt) I used a 5/16" bolt that was either 2 or 2.5 inches long. Just make sure it's long enough to stick out to get a driver on the bolt.

Good luck!

 

[LBussy]

If my memory serves me right (I tossed the receipt) I used a 5/16" bolt that was either 2 or 2.5 inches long. Just make sure it's long enough to stick out to get a driver on the bolt.

Good luck!

Thank you.

I'd read in passing (I think) somewhere that this was M8 so that's 0.3125 vs 0.3150 ... likely close enough not to matter. Less than 1/128" difference and that in a Chinese casting.

Or I could bring both. Bolts are cheap - the rest of what I wanted to do cost a couple bucks but I'll live.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Thank you.

I'd read in passing (I think) somewhere that this was M8 so that's 0.3125 vs 0.3150 ... likely close enough not to matter. Less than 1/128" difference and that in a Chinese casting.

Or I could bring both. Bolts are cheap - the rest of what I wanted to do cost a couple bucks but I'll live.

If you are unsure at all, bring the mill to the hardware store and test fit the bolt...you really want the proper size bolt and thread pitch. These are cheap chinese castings, likely a bit screwed up already, don't make things any worse with a bolt that is "close enough".

Don't ask how I know....I have broken this bolt twice now and have had a helluva time drilling and cussing it out of the mill.

 

[LBussy]

If you are unsure at all, bring the mill to the hardware store and test fit the bolt...you really want the proper size bolt and thread pitch. These are cheap chinese castings, likely a bit screwed up already, don't make things any worse with a bolt that is "close enough".

Don't ask how I know....I have broken this bolt twice now and have had a helluva time drilling and cussing it out of the mill.

Ideally I'd like to not have to go anywhere once I get there. That's best case. If I have to go somewhere I'll try my best to bring the shaft with me but the body is bolted down pretty securely.

 

[phug]

Mine needed an m8 bolt and is the weston grinder

 

[imasickboy]

Buy one of these:

Stick it in your drill. Hook it through the eye bolt that the mill already has installed. Mill grain.

It's not a good long term solution, because you will start to wear through the metal of the eye bolt. When you can, replace the eye bolt with a good quality one, and carry on as you were.

The original eye bolt should be good for many batches, just not indefinitely.

This is how I run my mill, and it compensates well for off-center drilling that seems to be standard on the shaft of these mills.

 

[mb82]

Buy one of these:

Stick it in your drill. Hook it through the eye bolt that the mill already has installed. Mill grain.

It's not a good long term solution, because you will start to wear through the metal of the eye bolt. When you can, replace the eye bolt with a good quality one, and carry on as you were.

The original eye bolt should be good for many batches, just not indefinitely.

This is how I run my mill, and it compensates well for off-center drilling that seems to be standard on the shaft of these mills.

This is what I did. I did though grind the threads off and create flats so my drill could get a better grip. I am probably 20 batches into my first eyebolt. I probably should replace it soon... maybe.

 

[LBussy]

Mine needed an m8 bolt and is the weston grinder

Thanks ... definitely gonna buy both. No matter what the Chinese intended I think having a choice will be a good idea.

Buy one of these:

Stick it in your drill. Hook it through the eye bolt that the mill already has installed. Mill grain.

It's not a good long term solution, because you will start to wear through the metal of the eye bolt. When you can, replace the eye bolt with a good quality one, and carry on as you were.

The original eye bolt should be good for many batches, just not indefinitely.

This is how I run my mill, and it compensates well for off-center drilling that seems to be standard on the shaft of these mills.

I did that many moons ago. Somehow the "triangle" bolt and the J bolt jot bound up. It spun out of my hands, while I was not paying attention of course, and jacked me in my jaw. No thank you sir.

Being off-center is a good point though. Here's how I intend to deal with it:

... JB welded to the bolt. Then one of these:

(cheap Harbor freight versions of course)

These should allow a nice flexibility while avoiding any of the jaw-busting fun I had as a younger man.

 

[wilserbrewer]

All the above methods work, as I've mentioned I've snapped a couple bolts thru careless unattended operation...like propping my drill with a broomstick and bunjee.

I have it rigged for the last dozen or so brews with heavy tubing clamped to the mill output shaft with a socket clamped in the tubing, and a bolt head out facing of the drill.

The BEST way w/ credit to RM-MN is to simply dress the output shaft with a grinder to engage a six point socket...wish I thought of that long ago while hacking a repair whilst the strike water was heating.
Very strong yet plenty of slop to account for the precise Chinese manufacturing.

Ps if somebody could PM me how you do that neat @some-HBT'r I'd be most appreciative. Can't figure that out duh
Cheers

 

[LBussy]

All the above methods work, as I've mentioned I've snapped a couple bolts thru careless unattended operation...like propping my drill with a broomstick and bunjee.

I have it rigged for the last dozen or so brews with heavy tubing clamped to the mill output shaft with a socket clamped in the tubing, and a bolt head out facing of the drill.

I'm sure there's some engineering term for that flexible connection - but one way or another a flexible connection is needed. It might be your arms or a tube as you've tried. Wailing and gnashing of teeth await the person who tries a rigid mount.

The BEST way w/ credit to RM-MN is to simply dress the output shaft with a grinder to engage a six point socket...wish I thought of that long ago while hacking a repair whilst the strike water was heating.
Very strong yet plenty of slop to account for the precise Chinese manufacturing.

Ps if somebody could PM me how you do that neat @some-HBT'r I'd be most appreciative. Can't figure that out duh
Cheers

I'm not sure there's a "best" way to do that. I've done it before for other things.

The last time I got out a pair of vice-grips and set them (closed) to the size I wanted (in this case it would be 1/4".) The reason I used vice grips is because I first grabbed my calipers and then in the ensuing fun I dropped them. Bad Brewer! No beer! I thought about a crescent wrench but those "adjust" far too easy. The vice grips were staring me in the face.

I then proceeded to grind two opposing flats to fit in the jaws. This is MUCH easier with a bench grinder. Once that was done there was no real easy way to grind the other four faces perfectly, I just eye-balled it, ground a little, and checked against a socket (or you could use a 1/4" chuck) and my vice grips.

There's a happy medium between hard enough not to twist off and so hard that it will snap. If you can find real grade 8 fasteners it will take longer to grind but be much more durable. Quench often and don't let the metal blue when you grind. Do you *need* grade 8? Absolutely not. It's overkill BUT consider the pennies you will spend on that versus the frustration of snapping that carefully ground piece off on brew day. At a minimum get grade 5. Don't buy cheap un-graded.

Better yet, make two of these.

If you use two nuts against the auger mechanism, if it breaks it will likely break where you can unscrew it with a wrench.

If you could find a mandrel to install 8mm threaded inserts, I'll bet that would work real nice.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Maybe I wasn't clear. I believe RM-MN actually ground some better flats in the cast iron mill shaft to roughly accept a large 6 point deep socket. No bolt is used at all, the entire 5/8" shaft is shaped to roughly engage a large socket. The chinese started the process, you just need to finish it. Area of shaft circled below...

 

[LBussy]

Oh! It was pre-coffee (for me anyway).

Yeah that would be a nice way to do it as well. I'd still grind it the same way.

 

[JayInAmes]

Another happy user! Did a hand grind of Cream of Three Crops for 5.5 pounds of 2-row, and got 75% efficiency, after constantly being in the 60s. Set up the drill, and I'm good! Thanks for all the hints and tips!

 

[TorMag]

Another happy user! Did a hand grind of Cream of Three Crops for 5.5 pounds of 2-row, and got 75% efficiency, after constantly being in the 60s. Set up the drill, and I'm good! Thanks for all the hints and tips!

It's amazing the difference the hand cranking vs the drill goes. I did my first two batches hand cranking the corona, took about 45 minutes to grind everything and a sore arm. Add the bucket, lid, big hopper and drill, two minutes and a grind that any guy who spent $300 on a three roller mill would be envious of...

 

[ballsy]

The corona with the proper adjustments and a drill chew through 15lb of grain in less than 2 min's....it's a thing of beauty to watch it and bask in the steady 75% BIAB efficiency I now get! So glad I went this route rather than the hundreds of $$ on a fancy boy mill

 

[johnodon]

Is this too fine of a crush for "BIAB in a Cooler"? I see lots of mangled husks but I also ran the drill full out. Does that become less of a factor at slower speeds?

EDIT: Hey my American friends....see the post #?

 

[wilserbrewer]

Is this too fine of a crush for "BIAB in a Cooler"? I see lots of mangled husks but I also ran the drill full out. Does that become less of a factor at slower speeds?

EDIT: Hey my American friends....see the post #?

Not too fine at all IMO, I crush finer. Almost looks like you may have a few uncrushed kernels, do you?

1976? 1776 yea

 

[johnodon]

Not too fine at all IMO, I crush finer. Almost looks like you may have a few uncrushed kernels, do you?

1976? 1776 yea

I picked through the entire crush and didn't find any hulls intact. My main concern is (and always has been) the notion that shredded husks add astringency to the final product. I know that this is a Hillary vs. Trump kinda topic and has been poo-poo'd by most of the Corona Mill advocates so I am not really that concerned.

John

 

[johnodon]

Just to check myself, I ran the output through a strainer. In the first pic, you can see the separation of what was passed through the strainer on the right vs. what remained in the strainer on the left.

The second pic shows a cloesup on what remained in the strainer which should contain the uncrushed grains. I couldn't find any at all.

BTW...some of the larger husks shown at the bottom right of the first pic are from my giving the plate a shake to flatten everything out. They did not pass through the strainer.

 

[johnodon]

We're in business! I went with the bucket-in-a-bucket design with one small mod.

Left bucket has the bottom cut out along with the center of another lid that acts like a skirt to support it on top of the right bucket. Crush and just lift off the top bucket and you are left with a bucket full of crushed grains.