iSpindle - DIY Electronic Hydrometer

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I went through the whole calibration procedure with sugar and water. Measured 5 or 6 different densities/angles. Input them into the calibration tool. The first time I used it I felt that the Krausen that was present was enough to negate all that effort. Plus the next time I took the lid off and charged it, the plain water angle shifted enough that it probably wasn't accurate any longer anyhow.

The procedure I use is plenty accurate for what I expect to get out of the device.
 
Some more information to share. It's clear that formula from OG and water is good enough in most case.

Chart with formula from two additional calibrating points:
4points.jpg

Chart with formula from only OG and water:
2points.jpg


The effect of krause is also shown in the charts, around "08 Aug" and "10 Aug".

I fermented in a keg and use co2 to get sample. The ZigZag around 08 Aug seems to be caused by sample taking. However, the reporting period is 10 minutes while it took only 1 minutes to get my sample. It's not simply caused by bumping but effect of krausen.

This is by far the most acute moving I've seen. I think the reason is that it is a hefeweizen, which is known to have thick krausen. Other charts I have have less than 0.001 changes.
 
quite different but acceptable, mashing now, will do water+OG thing as well. So I need to activate "calibrate iSpindel" in logging and enter tilt in water and then OG at the main page?
 
quite different but acceptable, mashing now, will do water+OG thing as well. So I need to activate "calibrate iSpindel" in logging and enter tilt in water and then OG at the main page?

You have to input OG as SG. OG is used to calculate attenuation and ABV only.
I don't assume that the log starting from the begging. Current SG might NOT be the OG when starting LOG.
 
Started :)
upload_2018-12-5_16-15-42.png


is SG already corrected for temperature if I set it in option? Because I entered 1.057@20 manually but it momentally switched to 1.058
 
Sorry for my ignorance, it sounds like you are re-calibrating this with each batch and each recharge?

Just wondering if it's more frustration than what its worth. The tech/cool factor is absolutely there... but...
 
With my method, it's not that difficult. If you utilize either the BrewPiLess or Fermentrack systems, it sounds like calibration is included in the software.

I like what i get out of it, and feel that it was worth the time and effort.
 
With my method, it's not that difficult. If you utilize either the BrewPiLess or Fermentrack systems, it sounds like calibration is included in the software.

I like what i get out of it, and feel that it was worth the time and effort.

Yes you were right, it seems that it works and is nice :) I am not using fermentrack, I do not like the idea of having another device (RPi) involved. BPL is as simply as it is and I like it, works awesome, author is awesome and responsive and helpful.
 
HELP HELP HELP!

I'm trying to follow the instructions to the letter but they just marry up to what I'm looking at on my screen.

I have my formula from excel of 0.02721389*tilt^2 - 2.562205192*tilt + 59.91984454

STEP 8. Now you can fill in the formula from Excel. De parts in the formula shown as (tilt) has to be replaced. To do so click on insert variable and choose tilt. Give the newly created variable a name that does make sense, i.e. Density or Plato

Ubiplato.jpg


What I'm looking at after 'derived' and adding 'tilt' is this!

Capture.JPG


So what am I supposed to do with that?
 
I think it gets a bit lost in translation, you're not short circuiting the wemos as such by removing the diode.

But by removing the diode you are preventing the wemos accidentally drawing power from the USB (whilst flashing) and the lipo powering it. Which knowing how sensitive the wemos is to over powering will stop the chip getting fried.


So does this mean I can leave the diode in place if I never plug it in while the charger/custom ispindel board is plugged in? If I need to reprogram, I can just unplug these?
 
No, the wemos will crash and burn if you don't remove it. At least mine did when I forgot...
Hmmm ok... I guess I have no choice then. I just don't understand why that is.

(P.s. nice avatar.. split, yeah?)
 
I'm not sure. I know it's a problem when the charger is plugged in. It may have burned up when I had it plugged in. I just figured that since it was being committed to this project, there was no significant reason not to remove it.

Also, I would assume it's a split with the semaphore. The vehicle is not mine, but I wish it was (it's an internet pic). I'm a huge fan of the VW Beetle. My first car was a '73, and I still own it.
 
I don’t really understand why, but Sam, the creator of iSpindel, did say that he have burned a few d1 mini’s by plug the usb with battery connected without removing the diode.
 
has anyone had issues where their device starts to not report tilt? I've brewed a few times successfully with my iSpindel, but now it appears to not report the angle (it reports 0 degrees). I did manage to plug in the Wemos D1 to my USB charger before properly connecting it to the USB charging port. Perhaps I fried my gyro?

Or is there a minimum battery voltage that I need? It's reporting 4.144V right now, which seems low.

Or do these gyros sometimes die?
 
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My apologies- I just rechecked and I had a severe brain fart- it's 4.144V. IIRC I think the ideal charged voltage is 4.2v on the battery.

I may have broken the gyro somehow. I'm recharging it as the krausen hasn't formed yet so at least I can see if it's a voltage issue.

and before I gum up this thread, I cycled the power while recharging it, and it now is reporting properly again. Weird.
 
So I'm having a bit of trouble getting my spindel up and working, and can't figure out why. I have tried 3 different D1 minis, and tried several different versions of the firmware, but can not get it to show the ispindel config network. It does show a "farylink_XXXXXX" network, but I am unable to get a connection to that network using a laptop, tablet, or phone. Any thoughts on what I've got going on, or how I can get them working?
 
So I'm having a bit of trouble getting my spindel up and working, and can't figure out why. I have tried 3 different D1 minis, and tried several different versions of the firmware, but can not get it to show the ispindel config network. It does show a "farylink_XXXXXX" network, but I am unable to get a connection to that network using a laptop, tablet, or phone. Any thoughts on what I've got going on, or how I can get them working?
Have you tried to load the firmware using the micro-usb? D1 mini does not support OTA firmware update out of the box as far as I know. After you have loaded the first iSpindel firmware using usb, OTA updates are possible.
 
Have you tried to load the firmware using the micro-usb? D1 mini does not support OTA firmware update out of the box as far as I know. After you have loaded the first iSpindel firmware using usb, OTA updates are possible.
Installing via USB is the only way I have tried so far.
 
I was in the middle of designing my own iSpindle PCB and sled, when I can across this thread.

Gonna follow along and see how it goes. ;)
 
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IMG_0416.jpg
ive been trying to calibrate my ispindel for a while now, the excel sheet doesn’t load but the calibration tool does, can I use the formula generated?
 
So I'm having a bit of trouble getting my spindel up and working, and can't figure out why. I have tried 3 different D1 minis, and tried several different versions of the firmware, but can not get it to show the ispindel config network. It does show a "farylink_XXXXXX" network, but I am unable to get a connection to that network using a laptop, tablet, or phone. Any thoughts on what I've got going on, or how I can get them working?

I think I have the same issue you have, but let's see... In my case, I uploaded the firmware on to A NAKED MINI D1 (not fully built as an iSpindel yet) and got the same farylink ap as you, which disappeared shortly after. I tried on a few D1 minis, same. So I installed the full build environment and compiled in there, followed by an upload. Same result. Opening up the monitor shows it cannot find any devices, which I guess should be expected. I don't know if it should work when it is like this or not?
 
I found that if mini D1 couldn't find a ds18b20 it wouldn't complete the power up and turn on the AP. Once I solder in the ds18b20 everything was good.
 
I found that if mini D1 couldn't find a ds18b20 it wouldn't complete the power up and turn on the AP. Once I solder in the ds18b20 everything was good.
This turned out to be my problem too. Replaced a bad temp sensor, and then was able to flash it, connect to the iSpindel network, and configure it for my network. Getting good readings from it now.
 
Any one has experienced this problem:

Attached the Gyro to the D1 mini and flash it.
After reboot go to the web server and the angle reported is always 0.0

Tested the Gyro in an Arduino Uno and works OK.
Tested the D1 mini and the pins are ok also.

It happen with 4 sets while we build the iSpindles for the club pals.

My next try will be to connect a logic analyzer to the I2C pins to see why always report 0
 
Do you have the report interval adjusted in the web interface?

I've had issues with mine where it reports out 0 degrees but it's usually fixed with reboots of the device.
 
Any one has experienced this problem:

Attached the Gyro to the D1 mini and flash it.
After reboot go to the web server and the angle reported is always 0.0

Tested the Gyro in an Arduino Uno and works OK.
Tested the D1 mini and the pins are ok also.

It happen with 4 sets while we build the iSpindles for the club pals.

My next try will be to connect a logic analyzer to the I2C pins to see why always report 0
Check the voltage on the VCC/GND pins on the GY-521 after it’s been soldered and verify that you’re getting close to 5V when powered on. I had a similar issue with one of my builds and it turned out to be a lifted trace due to me applying too much heat when soldering the VCC pin on the gyro. A short piece of wire from the WeMos 5V pin to replace it solved the issue.
 
Hi, I've made my own ISpindel and test it with my last day of the year, American Wheat Pale Ale. I fermented with Us-05 and have plastic fermenter with Stainless steel cooling coil. I've calibrated my ISpindel with water and sugar. From start it was working good but at a moment it begins to measure less gravity than reality and now it's measuring a lot more than original. We check ISpindel and we think it has stuck with our cooling coil, or some temperature sensor cables...
Anyone has some experience with this problem? And how to deal with krausen? I attach some pictures:
 
Im having issues with getting my Ispindle to work, and could use some pointers.

Background (feel free to skip to the problem part):
I order the iSpindel kit from http://3D-Mechatronics.de, received it well packaged and with no visible damage to any components.

I soldered the components according to the English soldering guide (https://brewlab.blog/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/DIY_Spindel_Anleitung_En.pdf) I don't think my soldering was any worse than it normally is so it should be okay.

I did final assembly, powered trough the charging USB and flashed firmware trough the WeMos USB. That done I managed to connect to the iSpindel SSID, did basic config for WiFi, changed interval to every 20sec for testing and setup, created a ubidots account, put the token in the iSpindel config and looking at ubidots I can see that the iSpindel created a device and is sending data.

The Problem:
When disconnecting the USB to the charger the iSpindel dies. All diodes go dark and it stops reporting data. I Thought it might just be power saving (deep sleep) so I left if for a couple of hours, still no data. I'm not sure how the WeMos is powered but I saw someone mentioned the 5v pin so I took a multimeter to that and what I can see is that when the charger is connected to charge USB and everything is working I get about 4v on the 5v pin, running on battery it fluctuates from 0,8v to 1,7v. Measuring directly on the battery I get 3,65V.

Any idea what I'm doing wrong here? Or do I maybe have a bad battery or charging unit?
 
If it’s working when the power is connected that’s a good start.

Assuming you’ve played around toggling the switch etc it might just be a bad connection to the battery.

Or the battery just not having sufficient charge.
 
+1 for what @Mikmonken says...3.6v is getting down to the “should work, but no margin for error...” input voltage range from the battery, so I’d first charge it up to full capacity and see what your results are. But that said, I would expect to see more than 0.8-1.7v now, so I would suspect a bad connection from the battery (like a lifted trace as a result of soldering, or bad solder connection). You can bypass the trace with a short piece of wire temporarily to see if that solves the issue as a test.
 

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