Lalo_uy
Well-Known Member
Looking at my firs batch with iSpindle I wonther if Temp shuld need to be factored in the SG calc??? After initial fermentation y stabilization y do 2 temp steps, first to 15C, then to 7C
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iSpindle - DIY Electronic Hydrometer
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Lalo_uy
Well-Known Member
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I feel kind of dumb right now. I finally got more parts in from China and put them together and it did the same thing and was overheating. I then flipped the polarity of the battery and now it's working fine and I'm getting output into Ubidots. So I guess I had the battery polarity flipped when I tried last time. I could've sworn I tried the battery both ways, but maybe I didn't. Anyways it's working now, yay!
Only small issue I'm having is that my temperature is reading in C even though I selected F in the config screen, I've tried changing it to F twice now and it continues to read in C. Any idea why? I'm running the most recent firmware (6.0.2).
Good news! And I didn't notice the battery polarity being backwards. But, looking back at the photos, sure enough it is. So who's the dummy?
If your referring to the temperature value in Ubidots, I get the temp in C° also. I had to create a derived value to get a F° reading. (F=C°x1.8+32)
If your referring to the temperature value in Ubidots, I get the temp in C° also. I had to create a derived value to get a F° reading. (F=C°x1.8+32)
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Gotcha, cool. That was going to be my next step,just was hoping there was a native value it could send in F instead of changing it after.
Another quick question, it shows the battery level after a full charge as .02. Is there someway you guys are converting that into a useful number?
I don't have access to mine right now, but there is a Battery conversion factor in the ispindel configuration. What is it currently set to? The github page shows that the default might be 200.
Yeah mine is set at 200 as well as the default setting - I guess if my reading is at .02 right now I could change it to 42000 to get it to read 4.2 at full voltage. Does that sound correct?
Honestly. I've never touched mine, so I'm not sure. Give it a try if you're positive it's got a full charge.
Lalo_uy
Well-Known Member
If the reading differs from what you get with a Voltimeter, move is slightly up or down until you read the same. I depend of the precision on the 220K resistor My is now 197.
Lalo_uy
Well-Known Member
A few weeks ago members of the Club Uruguayo de Cerveceros Caseros ( Uruguayan Home Brewers Club) do a join buy of parts and build of 40 iSpindle.
of course the day ended with asado ( BBQ) & beers
Thanks for a wonderful device !!!!
of course the day ended with asado ( BBQ) & beers
Thanks for a wonderful device !!!!
Hi does anyone know how to make calibration formula properly using this tool ? http://www.ispindel.de/tools/calibration/calibration.htm I want to use Degree 3 formula but this tool returns a formula in SG and not the Plato. Then iSpindel shows SG instead of Plato which is not good. The excel calibration tool generates formula properly in Plato but it's only 2 Degree. Thx!
well, I should’ve considered Plato users.
You can just input Plato vale in “SG or plato” and tilt fields, and ignore all other fields.
LeeH
Well-Known Member
Is there an offset to calibrate the temperature? Mines 1 degC out. I use a calibrated thermapen to cross check all my measuring devices.
Thx for this tip. I will try, hovewer I put the values in SG but I would need resulting formula in plato because iSpindel displays plato in 2 decimal points. Also don't know if apps where ispindel sends data does not require gravity in plato. Maybe a switch in calculator would be fine to display formula in plato/sg in your calculator.
Unfortunatelly there is no ofset you can set but you could try to modify the firmware.
The formula doesn't care about plato or gravity.
It just takes input and calculate the result.
The formula is derived by a series of (SG, tilt) values.
You can just use Plato values as SG, and get a formula that will calculate Plato.
I took some random numbers and get something like this:
It just takes input and calculate the result.
The formula is derived by a series of (SG, tilt) values.
You can just use Plato values as SG, and get a formula that will calculate Plato.
I took some random numbers and get something like this:
Okay I just finished soldering my iSpindel, but it doesn't seem to work. I initiallay flashed the wemos to check if it was working before I soldered. I then followed the soldering guide.
When I hook up the charging unit with the usb the red led is constant and the blue is flashing. I'm not sure how I trouble shoot this. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
When I hook up the charging unit with the usb the red led is constant and the blue is flashing. I'm not sure how I trouble shoot this. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
The red LED shows that it is charging the battery. It should turn blue when fully charged. What does the blue flash look like? If it is about a second or so apart, it might be in configuration mode.
If so, look for the iSpindel network in your network places and connect to it.
The red and the blue LEDs on the charging module are the ones I'm talking about. The red one is constant and the blue is flashing at the same time. This is not described in the data sheet for the charger.
The blue LED on the ESP8266 only lights up when I press restart, but only shortly. Before I soldered the whole thing and removed the capacitor the ESP worked well enough I think.
I figure something is wrong with my charger, my battery, my usb cable (old HTC charging cable) or my soldering. This is my first time soldering, so that is very possible, but I don't know how to find the problem. Is there any way to check the charger and the battery with a multimeter?
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Which charging module did you get? I'll have to double check mine, but I believe it only has a single LED. Are you able to put the Wemos into A.P. mode? If so, try to access the configuration page and see if everything is working. Pictures of the assembled boards may help diagnosis. (If you can)
Well, I did a little research since I cannot access my iSpindel at the moment.
It appears that mine does have 2 LED's and a video I found online shows that when a battery is not connected, it blinks in a manner similar to what you are describing, but the video shows different colors. (It wouldn't be the first time I've seen the LED colors be different.) Is this similar to what you are seeing? If so, check your battery connections.
It appears that mine does have 2 LED's and a video I found online shows that when a battery is not connected, it blinks in a manner similar to what you are describing, but the video shows different colors. (It wouldn't be the first time I've seen the LED colors be different.) Is this similar to what you are seeing? If so, check your battery connections.
I got the kit from 3D mechatronics, so the TP4056 is the one they bought. I assume the quality should be good.
Can't turn the Wemos since it won't power on properly. Only shortly. That's why I figured it might be something with the charger or something.
Yea I looked the datasheet up for the chager. As far as I can see the pattern is opposite. The red is constant and the blue is flashing. When I disconnect the battery I get blue constant and red flashing.
I've attached photos of it. Please tell me if you want a close-up of something.
And thanks for your reply.
Attachments
Looks good in the pictures and we've exhausted my resources, unfortunately.
When you power on the Wemos, you won't get anything accept a few short bursts of the LED while it boots up. Will the LED flash if you hit the reset button? If so, try pushing it a couple of times to see if you can get it into A.P. mode.
Does the position of the switch make any difference to the charger's LEDs? How are the Battery Leads connected to the shield? Looks like it might be a Molex or JSP connection. do you have a multimeter to check connections?
As a side note, I don't recommend removing the LED on the Gyro, the battery life doesn't seem to be effected greatly and having the LED can help diagnose problems. Like right now, you would know if it was getting power from the Wemos.
I can take my spare apart and see what pattern I get on the charger LED's with no battery attached. But, I won't be able to do that until later tonight. (4 or 5 hours from now)
When you power on the Wemos, you won't get anything accept a few short bursts of the LED while it boots up. Will the LED flash if you hit the reset button? If so, try pushing it a couple of times to see if you can get it into A.P. mode.
Does the position of the switch make any difference to the charger's LEDs? How are the Battery Leads connected to the shield? Looks like it might be a Molex or JSP connection. do you have a multimeter to check connections?
As a side note, I don't recommend removing the LED on the Gyro, the battery life doesn't seem to be effected greatly and having the LED can help diagnose problems. Like right now, you would know if it was getting power from the Wemos.
I can take my spare apart and see what pattern I get on the charger LED's with no battery attached. But, I won't be able to do that until later tonight. (4 or 5 hours from now)
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terragady
Well-Known Member
What is the temperature corrected option? I got the same results if I click it or not or if I also enter like 100 C degree, does not change anything. Is it kind of artifact?
Another question, what is everyone using for wireless charging?
I wanted to just silicone glue the cap of mine ispindel so I am installing a mercury switch for ON/OFF and reed for reset but I need also a wireless charging and was wondering what is the best for that?
The temperature correction option is for hydrometer readings. I think it's obvious. Most hydrometers are calibrated at 68F/20C or 59F/15C.
Sam has modified the HTML I programmed. I am not sure if it stays same as what I have designed.
terragady
Well-Known Member
oh ok, yes I am very aware of hydrometer being calibrated at certain temperature. I actually use your html file from github. If I click SG and tilt and then I tick temperature corrected then there is an invalid value error, like it does not see entered SG. Is it only for BRIX? Whatever I enter, the same entered values gives me the same values in table and same formula, I can tick or untick the temp correction, change from 5-20-50-90oC and nothing change. How does it suppose to work?
terragady
Well-Known Member
When the charger is plugged in I get a few bursts and then after doing it for a while it would give a constant blue light, but I couldn't find the network.
Yes when the charger is plugged in and the switch is on it does as described before. When the switch is off I get a bright blue light and a very weak red light (constant). When I remove the battery connection I get constant blue and flashing red (as described in the TP4056 datasheet). The connecten is the one that was in the 3D mechatronics kit. I don't know the type. I do have a multimeter, but I don't know how to check what works and what doesn't. I was hoping someone here could help me with that.
Huh.. I read somewhere that, that LED was not necessary and significantly reduced the battery life.. It's too late now anyway.
@ebbbe, to me it sounds like you indeed have a battery connection issue. I would check for continuity and voltages between the battery and the appropriate terminals on the shield. I can check mine to verify what you are looking for.
With the charger plugged in and the switch on, the Wemos should behave normally.
With the charger plugged in and the switch on, the Wemos should behave normally.
I didn't really check all the functions and never used it again.
Please check the new version:
https://github.com/vitotai/BrewPiLess/blob/master/extra/calibrationSG.htm
terragady
Well-Known Member
Not that it is something I can't live without (I usually measure at 20oC anyway) but yes now it works fine! Thank you for bugfix
der_Missionar
Well-Known Member
Read probably half the posts in this thread, after you've got these built, how are these things working, are they providing accurate readings? I'm wondering how something like my excessively bubbling Stout, leaving residue on the lid and upper side of this, might change the balance and create inaccurate readings? Real world, do these work?
Second, anyone in Western PA doing these?
Second, anyone in Western PA doing these?
Read probably half the posts in this thread, after you've got these built, how are these things working, are they providing accurate readings? I'm wondering how something like my excessively bubbling Stout, leaving residue on the lid and upper side of this, might change the balance and create inaccurate readings? Real world, do these work?
Second, anyone in Western PA doing these?
Do they work? Yes
Are they accurate? Yes and No. They are not inherently accurate without tweaking on the users end.
I'm not necessarily using mine in order to get accurate S.G. readings. I'm mostly interested in how the fermentation is progressing. In my last ferment I measured the angle of the device in plain water before sanitizing it and placing it in the fermenter. Then I used a hydrometer (or refractometer) to measure the O.G. Using those 2 numbers I used the online calibration tool to get the formula to setup the Ubidots devices. When the S.G. reading hadn't drifted over a few days I determined that it was likely finished and kegged it. After kegging, I measured the final gravity with a hydrometer.
iSpindel said it finished @ ±1.014
Hydrometer said it finished @ ±1.013
I consider it close enough for what I want to get out of it. Your expectations may be different. I'm on the west coast but would be glad to help in any way that I can.
terragady
Well-Known Member
Are you using only 2 datapoint to get the formula?
Who me? Yeah, it's hard to get an angle mid ferment that is not skewed from krausen buildup. Additionally, I don't want to open the fermenter mid-ferment for a hydrometer reading.
As i mentioned, I'm not interested in exacting accuracy. Which to this point I don't believe is practical anyhow. It serves it's purpose for me very well.
terragady
Well-Known Member
I mean if you calibrate your iSpindel based on only water reading and OG, so 2 points only? You can do proper calibration before fermentation, either with yeasts or just sugar concentrations. The calibration curve is not a straight line.
My iSpindel works pretty well if correctly calibrated. However, every time I open the cap to recharge, the calibration is off. Therefore, I develop a “brew and calibrate” feature in BrewPiLess, which starts with plan water and OG and refines as more data is input.
The result is very satisfying.
Krausen and bubbles do affect the readings. Almost all logs I recorded show a rise at the point when end of high krausen.
The result is very satisfying.
Krausen and bubbles do affect the readings. Almost all logs I recorded show a rise at the point when end of high krausen.
terragady
Well-Known Member
yes but with brew and calibrate you need to check the gravity with hydrometer few times during fermentation? Or it is modifying the current formula to fit new datapoints? (not just adding datapoints as this will be useless and wrong because the point of gravity/angle in same liquid changed). I mean still this is mostly to see at what stage fermentation is.
or the method @gromitd is using is better, to measure angle in plain water and OG and this should give good estimation? (shouldn't right? As this is not a simple straight funciton?)
If no more data is input, “brew and calibrate” uses only OG and plain water data, which is exactly the same as what gromitdj does.
Surprising to me, the formula derived from two point are usually accurate enough.
