Is My Kegerator Dead?

[laserghost]

Hey everyone, I've had my kegerator for about 6–7 years. It's a converted Danby mini fridge, I bought new, that holds two cornies. I keep it on a Johnson Control at around 37 degrees, and it's been great so far. So I was really bummed to see that it's only cooling down to 50 degrees and the compressor is running full-time.

I vacuumed all the exposed components in the back, and it looks pretty clean. There's not much going on down there. Inside, on the coils there is some frost build up. This thing is supposed to have automatic defrost, and I've also manually defrosted for 24 hours, and it's still experiencing this frost buildup at that same spot.

This problem was first noticed after I moved the fridge from one side of the room to the other. No tilting on it's side, upright the whole time. Gently slid, no bumping around. Should I just replace this fridge, or do you think there's still a chance?

 

[Schwabizzle]

I had the same thing happen with my kitchen fridge and I had to get rid of it because it was happening with increasing frequency. Not sure if that helps, but it sounds like it may be on the way out. Sorry.

 

[IslandLizard]

I had the same thing happen with my kitchen fridge and I had to get rid of it because it was happening with increasing frequency. Not sure if that helps, but it sounds like it may be on the way out. Sorry.

Same here with 2 kitchen fridges over the years. From what I've read it's the compressor gone bad. Impossible to repair or replace for less than a new fridge, unless you can do it yourself or trade someone who can, for a keg of beer. A working replacement compressor then needs to be pilfered from another unit, as they are exorbitantly expensive as a replacement part.

 

[50calshooter]

Happened to me too. for about five bucks you can get a bullet valve that mounts to the sealed off charging line and for about 15 bucks a can you can get the coolant. I just recharged mine and it was good to go. Not saying that's the problem but, its been my life long experience that if the compressor is running and its not getting cold the system is low on coolant/Freon. Bullet Valves allow you to charge a system that was sealed off. They pierce the line when you tighten them down and seal off. If the compressor never kicks on or the unit trips the breaker when you plug it in then in most cases it's a lost cause.

 

[IslandLizard]

the system is low on coolant/Freon

Glad you were able to "fix" it, but where do you think that coolant went, considering it's a "closed" system?

 

[50calshooter]

Glad you were able to "fix" it, but where do you think that coolant went, considering it's a "closed" system?

It doesn’t go anywhere. It just stops getting cold after compression/decompression by the compressor. Just add some more. If you think you need to bleed it off.

 

[Yooper]

It's dead, Jim.

Or at least dying.

(I've been waiting to use that Star Trek line on this forum for years!!!!)

 

[IslandLizard]

its been my life long experience that if the compressor is running and its not getting cold the system is low on coolant/Freon.

You mean, adding more refrigerant is all it needs? Wouldn't that indicate (some of) the original refrigerant has escaped, e.g., through a leak somewhere?

 

[50calshooter]

You mean, adding more refrigerant is all it needs? Wouldn't that indicate (some of) the original refrigerant has escaped, e.g., through a leak somewhere?

No. It means it no longer gets cold when it decompresses. Modern made refrigerants don’t last as long as the old school R12. Charge it, don’t charge it, throw it out, buy a new one. It don’t matter to me. I was just trying to save you some bucks.

 

[IslandLizard]

No. It means it no longer gets cold when it decompresses. Modern made refrigerants don’t last as long as the old school R12.

This is news to me. So best would be to vacuum it first, then recharge. That would really put it back in business?

Charge it, don’t charge it, throw it out, buy a new one. It don’t matter to me. I was just trying to save you some bucks.

I'm willing to try your method with that "warm" Saison fridge that won't cool anymore. Same issue as the OP's. Nothing to lose right? I have a can of R134a here... looking for a bullet valve.

 

[Bigdaddyale]

Double check the compressor fan and make sure it running when the fridge is on

 

[50calshooter]

Double check the compressor fan and make sure it running when the fridge is on

That too. Good call.

 

[Bigdaddyale]

You can feel around the front of the freezer door where it seals to the mainframe. If it's hot there is a good chance the yoder loop is not getting cooled off. The first thing I check is for dust build up on the coils and then the compressor fan not working.

 

[Bigdaddyale]

I just looked at the first picture- You got a giant snowball growing behind the back wall. I would shut down the fridge and defrost it.

 

[day_trippr]

I would also suspect low refrigerant - which means there's a leak. Could be a compressor seal, could be a breach in the plumbing on either side (evaporator, condenser, or the tubing that connects everything).

Refrigerant doesn't wear out. If refilling a fridge or freezer restores function it's because there's a leak...

Cheers!

 

[IslandLizard]

I would also suspect low refrigerant - which means there's a leak. Could be a compressor seal, could be a breach in the plumbing on either side (evaporator, condenser, or the tubing that connects everything).

Refrigerant doesn't wear out. If refilling a fridge or freezer restores function it's because there's a leak...

Cheers!

My thoughts too. But if it fixes it for a year at $5 of freon per recharge, why not?

 

[day_trippr]

No argument here wrt recharging, I was countering the notion that working fluid somehow degrades over time or magically disappears.
It doesn't...

Cheers!

 

[Dland]

A simple recharge may help if all the coolant has not leaked out, but if it has, you'll have to vac the air out of system before you recharge. If you have or know someone who has the gear to maintain automotive ACs, it is not a big step to service a home freezer. If your going to get into it, put some leak detector in with the coolant and see if you can find where it leaked out. Assuming it's R-134, which is available in at auto parts store. Other coolants harder to come by unless you have a EPA 608 cert.

 

[laserghost]

Thanks all, for the input. I have manually defrosted it several times, and that frost ball keeps popping up. It cools down to 50 degrees, and then that's it. maybe the recharge will do it? I'll look into that.

 

[Dland]

Thanks all, for the input. I have manually defrosted it several times, and that frost ball keeps popping up. It cools down to 50 degrees, and then that's it. maybe the recharge will do it? I'll look into that.

If it is frost build up it may be something as simple as blocked drain tube. Actually, given the symptoms mentioned, more likely to be that than system leak. Look for restriction near or behind frost ball, blow out with compressed air, after unit is thawed.

If the system has leaked out refrigerant, unless you are pretty handy in the trades, and have some specialized tools, you are better off buying a new unit. If you have a job, it will end up cheaper than your time and materials than to learn to fix. If you think you want to tinker with and understand refrigeration, you can try to fix your old unit, but would not hold up beer cooling waiting for that. Buy a new one and tinker with the old one.

Of course if you have time on your hands and maybe want to start a new career, there is room to move as an HVAC or commercial refrigeration technician, or better yet, self employed as same.

 

[Transamguy77]

What Do and said about a clogged drain tube or the sensor for the defrost is broken and it's not shutting it down and freezing up, I had an older fridge that did that the sensor got a crack and once water got in it and froze it it was destroyed. Hopefully it's a simple fix.

 

[RedIrocZ-28]

Have you taken that back panel off where the frost ball keeps forming? That's where I'd start.

 

[day_trippr]

Looking at the circuit diagram there is zero evidence of a defrost function, hence it's unlikely there's a "drain" to clear.
The frost "ball" is almost certainly forming because there is so little working vapor that the evaporator loop pressure is too low to keep the compressed vapor in a dense state so what little is left is immediately "flashing" in the evaporator.

The same paradigm can be observed in a chest freezer on its way to Appliance Heaven.

So, yes. "It's dead, Jim"...

 

[Transamguy77]

Looking at the circuit diagram there is zero evidence of a defrost function, hence it's unlikely there's a "drain" to clear.
The frost "ball" is almost certainly forming because there is so little working vapor that the evaporator loop pressure is too low to keep the compressed vapor in a dense state so what little is left is immediately "flashing" in the evaporator.

The same paradigm can be observed in a chest freezer on its way to Appliance Heaven.

So, yes. "It's dead, Jim"...

Day I think your right, I didn't think to look at the schematic and I was thinking it had a freezer but it doesn't so yes it is probably on its way out.

 

[laserghost]

It claims to have automatic defrost, and there is a drain tube. The "defrost cycle" supposedly happens when the compressor turns off and any ice that has formed melts away and it drips through a hole in the bottom into a pan above the compressor. I verified that it does drain through.

I did remove the screws on the back panel (inside the fridge) but couldn't see anything to note.

Good news is that it still chills down to 50 and holds fermentation temps on the controller, so I'm thinking I'll just readapt this as a fermentation fridge and get something new for the kegerator.

Thanks all.