How much dry yeast for 10 gallon batch

[guitarguy6]

Hey guys, I'm brewing my first 10 gallon batch tonight and was wondering if I need more than 1 pack of dry yeast. I use Danstar Nottingham ale yeast for my 5 gallon pale ales and they turn out great. I always rehydrate the yeast and was wondering if 1 pack is enough for a 10gallon batch. OG will be around 1.052 and FG around 1.01. Fermentation temp is around 68F.

Thanks

 

[Yooper]

Hey guys, I'm brewing my first 10 gallon batch tonight and was wondering if I need more than 1 pack of dry yeast. I use Danstar Nottingham ale yeast for my 5 gallon pale ales and they turn out great. I always rehydrate the yeast and was wondering if 1 pack is enough for a 10gallon batch. OG will be around 1.052 and FG around 1.01. Fermentation temp is around 68F.

Thanks

Two packages should be sufficient for a 1.052 10 gallon batch. One is definitely NOT enough.

 

[guitarguy6]

Two packages should be sufficient for a 1.052 10 gallon batch. One is definitely NOT enough.

Thanks for the info. Once my ferentation chamber is built and I move to liquid yeast will one package of lets say wyeast 1056 be sufficient for this beer if I use a starter?

 

[Yooper]

Thanks for the info. Once my ferentation chamber is built and I move to liquid yeast will one package of lets say wyeast 1056 be sufficient for this beer if I use a starter?

Yes, but you'd need a BIG starter- like over a gallon of wort and probably best if done in increments and stepped up.

What does work very well for 10 gallon batches it to save your yeast cake out of a 5 gallon fermenter and use 200 mls of it in a 10 gallon batch (give or take, depending on OG and age of the yeast). Keep the rest in sanitized mason jars in your fridge.

I do this all the time, and make only 10 gallon batches. I buy yeast twice a year or so.

You can do it with nottingham yeast, or any dry yeast strain, also!

 

[Brewing for Brigid]

Hey there I am currently having some trouble with my 10 gallon batch of mead. This is the first time I've done a large batch. I pitched two packets of Lalvin 71b 1122 into my primary about 24 hours ago. I did rehydrate it and let it said for a couple hours.
I did not use campden tablets so that is not the issue.

I also added yeast Energizer and nutrient to the primary. 2 1/2 tsp energizer and 4 tsp nutrient.

My SG was 1.095 upon pitching

There are 29 lb honey
One small orange and lime for nutrients and flavour. A few spices. 2 tea bags.
I also added 3 cups of apple juice today to boost nutrients... But Nada.....

I'm out of yeast so going to go buy more and repitch. Wondering if I should pitch more or even change yeast. I'm used to working with EC 118, the Beast, so I'm not used to needing to baby my yeast particularly in a honey environment.

Terrified 30 lb of honey are in danger!
Advise from the wise would be grand.

 

[BroStefan]

Hey there I am currently having some trouble with my 10 gallon batch of mead. This is the first time I've done a large batch. I pitched two packets of Lalvin 71b 1122 into my primary about 24 hours ago. I did rehydrate it and let it said for a couple hours.
I did not use campden tablets so that is not the issue.

I also added yeast Energizer and nutrient to the primary. 2 1/2 tsp energizer and 4 tsp nutrient.

My SG was 1.095 upon pitching

There are 29 lb honey
One small orange and lime for nutrients and flavour. A few spices. 2 tea bags.
I also added 3 cups of apple juice today to boost nutrients... But Nada.....

I'm out of yeast so going to go buy more and repitch. Wondering if I should pitch more or even change yeast. I'm used to working with EC 118, the Beast, so I'm not used to needing to baby my yeast particularly in a honey environment.

Terrified 30 lb of honey are in danger!
Advise from the wise would be grand.

A couple of things here. You under-pitched by about half. I pitch at least 2.5 grams per gals in my mead. Keep in mind Wine yeast packages are 5g while beer are 11g.

Also, the fruit is not adequate nutrition for the yeast. If you are learning from an older book you’ll see that but it is just wrong. Learn about SNA - staggered nutrient additions. This is the method that had revolutionize mead making. TOSNA 2 is the most up to date approach.

But all is not lost. Get 5 or more packs of the yeast. Rehydrate the yeast as per directions on the pack or look it up in the mead forum. Get the nutrients you need for SNA. Honey must is pretty stable stuff. If you sanitation was reasonable you should be fine.

And get a Wine whip and degass 2 Times a day for the first week.

 

[Brewing for Brigid]

Thank you so much for such a thorough reply.

Yeast, Whip and nutrients bought!

I ended up buying generic yeast nutrients and Energizer, as there was no fermaid but I think it'll work just the same.

Here we go: take two !

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I buy yeast twice a year or so.

You can do it with nottingham yeast, or any dry yeast strain, also!

No. Notty, like a number of dry and liquid yeasts, is a multistrain. You have to separate out the component strains and grow them up separately if you're to maintain the right proportions in the blend.

 

[Brewing for Brigid]

[QUOTE="BroStefan

But all is not lost. Get 5 or more packs of the yeast. Rehydrate the yeast as per directions on the pack or look it up in the mead forum. Get the nutrients you need for SNA. Honey must is pretty stable stuff. If you sanitation was reasonable you should be fine.

And get a Wine whip and degass 2 Times a day for the first week.[/QUOTE]

Just a quick thanks and an update.

Day three after reintroducing 5 packs yeast, airating and oxyginating with the fancy whip on a stick and things are happening!
I'm dumping no-name nutrients in every 24 hours and whipping it twice daily. There are some bubbles and a nice hiss emanating from the barrel. I notice much less foam than in previous batches of melowmel. I assume this has to do with the amount of fruit juice and pulp ( nutrients) compared to an (almost) traditional mead.
I've gone from an SG of 1.096 to 1.091 and am sitting at 67° F

I intend to rack it to a carboy after the 1/3 sugar break. At that point does one continue to use the whip to degass it, albeit more gently?

Thanks again and here's hoping its tasty!