home depot bucket to hold bag?

[Bobby_M]

i plan on sparging. thought i mentioned that.

Nope. I didn't see any mention of sparging but I don't think there is any reason to go through the trouble unless you can't fit a full mash in the pot.

 

[dilligafbrewing]

I used the term RIMS incorrectly.

I will be recirculating wort off the bottom of the bk and spraying it over the grain via a conical spray nozzle. In this respect it is a RIMS system in that it's recirculating a mash infusion, but being heated in the mash/boil vessel instead of a tube.

Ive read plenty of stories about bags contacting hot elements and getting holes melted in them.

I have no interest in a false bottom. Idk how many times I need to repeat that. Maybe I should put it in my original post for all those who didn't read the rest of the thread?

 

[TexasWine]

I have no interest in a false bottom. Idk how many times I need to repeat that. Maybe I should put it in my original post for all those who didn't read the rest of the thread?

Yeah, you might want to clarify. To quote your first post...

"im having trouble finding a suitable false bottom or steamer basket to keep the bag from touching the element."

Which indicates you're actively looking for a false bottom.

 

[lazarwolf]

just a suggestion. A stainless perforated pizza pan, with stainless bolts as feet works pretty well.

 

[Bobby_M]

I have no interest in a false bottom. Idk how many times I need to repeat that. Maybe I should put it in my original post for all those who didn't read the rest of the thread?

Maybe it's just the coldness of the written word, but take it easy. You did say false bottom and you didn't mention the desire to sparge. This is an active conversation. If you don't want exploration or discussion, just buy the home depot bucket and get on with it.

 

[wilserbrewer]

a home depot 5 gal bucket fits perfectly and am planning on just putting a bunch of holes in the bottom ?

I would be concerned about having enough open area in the bottom of the bucket to avoid a stuck sparge.

Lots of folks have been down this road and have been frustrated.

That's exactly why brewhardware.com has brought the BIAB false bottom to market and the have been selling like hot cakes to folks that are frustrated with false bottoms or baskets with less open area similar to what you are proposing....only difference is you plan to use plastic.

No comment on the material, HDPE doesn't bother me. IMHO design concept is flawed in that it may result in being too restrictive to recirculate adequately, but your welcome to try like the others that or now using a wire screen FB for automated BIAB.

 

[kh54s10]

My suggestion and one that another poster added was an aluminum pot or basket that is the same size as the bucket. With or without holes already there. You can drill holes in a second pot if you need to. Aluminum would be easier but SS would be nicer. Otherwise anything to keep the bag off the bottom of the pot or electric element.

When you give incomplete information on what you really want, don't get critical of the suggestions you get. The original post did state "false bottom".....

 

[dilligafbrewing]

Yes I realize my original post said false bottom. I also corrected and clarified in several later posts that I was more interested in a basket/bucket type apparatus to aid in lifting the bag and sparging with my pump. I do apologize for being short with those who chose to forgo the usual forum protocol of reading the entire thread before commenting, I do the same thing sometimes.

I finished building my kettle tonight and a false bottom may be feasible, I appreciate the links and suggestions from everyone. Using a false bottom will mean that I have to steer away from using the readily available and very affordable home depot 5 gal paint strainer bags that I was hoping to use, as they have no handles and in the absence of some sort of basket I will need a way to lift the grain bag.

Off topic a bit, will I need to bag my hops too? I've read conflicting reports.

 

[Bobby_M]

The home depot paint straining bags are not really a tight enough mesh for BIAB and they will wear out and tear pretty easily. Trust us.. We've been down this road before. When you say you're going to suspend the bag and sparge with your pump, do you mean from another pot of hot water? Are you sparging because your pot is not big enough to do a full volume mash? If not, what is your reason for sparging?

 

[dilligafbrewing]

My kettle holds 7.5 gal, so I will have to add some water after the bag is removed to get my pre boil volume. One idea I had was to heat my full 7 gal strike water volume and pump off a few gallons to a small cooler I have, then sparge with that after the mash to get a full volume boil and rinse the grains. I'm sort of hacking my way through this as I build my equipment. Maybe I should start there.

My bk is my old moonshine still boiler, stainless 7.5 gal with domed lid that clamps on. Heat is supplied by a 5500 watt water heater element controlled by an auber ezboil through an SSR. Pump is a 2 gpm eBay cheapie. During mash wort is recirculated and sprayed onto the grains through a full cone nozzle. Maybe this negates sparging, idk, I've gathered a lot of my info from forum posts, and while informative, they aren't always factual. I take it all as a starting point and planned on adjusting and refining my process according to my results.

If the paint strainer bags are widely regarded as junk, I'll gladly purchase a more durable alternative. I've used them for a few one gallon stove top test batches and one partial BIAB/extract batch that's fermenting now that I affectionately named 'split wig' for obvious reasons.

I do appreciate any advice that will save me time and money and most importantly, allow me to create a solid, consistent process.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Ok now that we have a little back story, I think your trying to hard to make it complicated.

Get a 12-15 gallon kettle and install your element, heat to strike temp and mash in full volume, throw and old coat over the kettle to maintain temperature. Stir well and remove the bag easy peasy.

Your idea of a spray nozzle over the grain bed isn't needed, a stirring spoon will serve the same purpose. JMO

Make a few batches the simple way and build upon that, you may find that a simple process is all you need. I know I have

This ain't like making shine where temperature is absolutely critical.

 

[applescrap]

Btw wilser will make you custom bags and is a master bag maker. Classy as hell of him to not to make mention of that. He will make a custom bag to fit your needs. Otherwise use lhbs bag. Note you will go through them.

 

[dilligafbrewing]

Too late. Element is installed, control panel is half built. This is my setup until I expand my kegging capacity enough to do 10 gal batches.

It should be noted that ive been brewing with extracts for 15 yrs or so. My foray into shine was a brief one.

The work I've done today:

View attachment 1476411183019.jpg

View attachment 1476411200962.jpg

View attachment 1476411219233.jpg

 

[TexasWine]

Too late. Element is installed, control panel is half built. This is my setup until I expand my kegging capacity enough to do 10 gal batches.

It should be noted that ive been brewing with extracts for 15 yrs or so. My foray into shine was a brief one.

The work I've done today:

Might I suggest at least partially following @wilserbrewer advice? Forgo recirculation for a few batches with your current set up. That way you don't have to mess around with the false bottom. Just dough in and insulate.

There are a few advantages to a recirculating set up, and a few draw backs. The main reason I have one is the ability to do multiple rest temperatures with great ease. If you mostly do single infusion mashes, then at least try what Wilser is suggesting.

 

[dilligafbrewing]

Yeah, my tubing hasn't come in yet anyway so first batch will likely not be recirculated. Will see what kind of efficiency I get as a baseline.

 

[Bobby_M]

I understand that simplicity is simple and usually good but with an element and ezboil, the step to recirculation is very easy and ensures a rock solid temp without insulating or intervention.

There is a challenge with a 7.5 gallon pot though. It will require sparging. I start with 8.25 gal of water for full volume mashing and the grain adds another gallon minimum.

Even with sparging, your preboil max is going to be about 6.5 gallons with an immense boil over potential.

If you are adament about using a basket, line the bottom with a coarse meshed disk of woven screen. It will keep the bag flowing instead of clinging to the flat obstructed areas. You can also cut out most of the bottom and insert a welded wire mesh steamer tray.

 

[dilligafbrewing]

I'm sure I will eventually get a bigger pot. This is what I had available. Don't really have a pile of money to throw at a 15 gal stainless kettle.

 

[1MadScientist]

Paint strainer bags are great for pellet hops. You can go as far as making a hop spider for it or just tie it off.

 

[dilligafbrewing]

Yeah I got a few muslin bags for my hops, I've read you don't want them running free in the kettle. Got a lot of the panel wired today and got 240vac ran to it. Tomorrow I might have time to finish and brew but I highly doubt it. Got ingredients for an English brown ale, should be nice and malty.

View attachment 1476496667599.jpg

 

[RM-MN]

I understand that simplicity is simple and usually good but with an element and ezboil, the step to recirculation is very easy and ensures a rock solid temp without insulating or intervention.

There is a challenge with a 7.5 gallon pot though. It will require sparging. I start with 8.25 gal of water for full volume mashing and the grain adds another gallon minimum.

Even with sparging, your preboil max is going to be about 6.5 gallons with an immense boil over potential.

If you are adament about using a basket, line the bottom with a coarse meshed disk of woven screen. It will keep the bag flowing instead of clinging to the flat obstructed areas. You can also cut out most of the bottom and insert a welded wire mesh steamer tray.

I get simplicity and a solid temp with only an uninsulated pot but that is because I mill my grain very fine so that conversion is done withing 20 minutes. There isn't much temperature change in such a short time.

I've learned to sparge and avoid the boil over with a smaller pot by sparging into anther container, bringing the first runnings to a boil so I get the hot break and let it subside, then adding the sparged wort (second runnings?) to the pot. This will result in a second but much lower hot break that won't boil over so easily. This will add time to the brew day but not a lot.

 

[dilligafbrewing]

A quick search brought up this rack...you would probably need to fabricate legs that meet your needs (stainless washers/nuts/bolts):

http://tinyurl.com/zkfbgzp

I use a similar one in my electric kettle and it works quite well.

Ordered this, now for better bags. What's the fan favorite for bags out there?

Also, will be a while before I can brew on my equipment because of a faulty SSR. Lesson of the week is buy once, cry once. Cheap eBay SSR's fry as soon as they see ac voltage.

 

[TexasWine]

Ordered this, now for better bags. What's the fan favorite for bags out there?

@wilserbrewer is the go to for bags around here. They're top notch.

http://biabbags.webs.com/

 

[dilligafbrewing]

Looks like he makes a fantastic product. I will surely buy some, but I hesitate to order one for my current kettle when it becomes more and more likely that I will buy a larger kettle soon. Till then I will use doubled up paint strainer bags and maintain my pH as such that I don't extract tannins from whatever hull material is left in the boil.

 

[E_Rock]

Ordered this, now for better bags. What's the fan favorite for bags out there?

Also, will be a while before I can brew on my equipment because of a faulty SSR. Lesson of the week is buy once, cry once. Cheap eBay SSR's fry as soon as they see ac voltage.

Get the wilserbag. I got one a few weeks ago and it's leagues better than the one I started with from my LHBS. It's a great bag.

 

[dilligafbrewing]

Get the wilserbag. I got one a few weeks ago and it's leagues better than the one I started with from my LHBS. It's a great bag.

Yeah, when I settle on my final kettle I'll do that, til then I'm not gonna buy a $30 bag for a kettle I may very well not stick with.

 

[TexasWine]

I use the Wilser bags from my old set up for hop bags during the boil in my new kettle. They won't go to waste.

 

[dilligafbrewing]

Ordered this, now for better bags. What's the fan favorite for bags out there?

Also, will be a while before I can brew on my equipment because of a faulty SSR. Lesson of the week is buy once, cry once. Cheap eBay SSR's fry as soon as they see ac voltage.

This rack is bull****. NOT stainless. Rusted overnight when left damp.

 

[dilligafbrewing]

Double post

 

[dilligafbrewing]

Ended up using the domed lid of the boiler flipped upside down with a colander in it to drain grains. Hit my target gravity and boil volume. Brown ale is currently bubbling it's way towards full krausen.

 

[RM-MN]

This rack is bull****. NOT stainless. Rusted overnight when left damp.

Stainless steel is a whole class of steel alloys containing at least a certain percentage of chromium. Some of these will rust but are still by definition stainless steel.