Grainfather!!

[Jag75]

Hey Guys, new to the grainfather and just got my first brew on it under my belt! Went pretty well, but missed my efficiency by 10 points, but it was my first brew on it and it was 16lbs of grain. Anyway, not the point of my post.

I had seen online that a number of folks have swapped out their circulation arm with quick disconnects. And likewise for their chiller. Reading online about the pipe threads, it seems they may be BSP, which has been hard to find all of the parts for here in the US. Has anyone done this successfully and have a part list they can share?

Congrats on your new purchase ! I was off on my efficiency on both of my 16 lb brew. Was spot on on the last one 10lbs. I've been told on big grain bills to stir the mash a couple times. As of the recirc arm and cfc quick connects I dont know but I'm curious now .

 

[MaCheFai]

Thanks! I actually mixed 3-4x. Who knows, maybe I was off w/ water or something. I just kegged it last night and it tastes amazing, so no complains at all. Might actually be my best brew ever. Just need to tweak the process a bit I think to get my abv back where I wanted it. Gonna do a Lemon lactose Berliner this weekend, so we'll see how a 10lb malt bill goes.

Here's one of the people I saw that made the upgrade to the quick connects, along with a couple of other small mod's I plan to add: I had seen a couple of other people do the same too, but all were in AU or NZ, so finding the correct pipe threads or converters for folks state side has proven a bit difficult. Maybe I'll try Alibaba.

I'd appreciate any ideas from folks though!

 

[jaymosbeershack]

Hey Guys, new to the grainfather and just got my first brew on it under my belt! Went pretty well, but missed my efficiency by 10 points, but it was my first brew on it and it was 18lbs of grain. Anyway, not the point of my post.

I had seen online that a number of folks have swapped out their circulation arm with quick disconnects. And likewise for their chiller. Reading online about the pipe threads, it seems they may be BSP, which has been hard to find all of the parts for here in the US. Has anyone done this successfully and have a part list they can share?

Milling could have effected your efficiancy. The GF likes a pretty fine crush(with a good amount of rice hulls). Also compacting the grainbed well before sparging helps a lot. I looked into quick connects a while ago and hit the same dead end you are. Would love to hear if you find them. [emoji482]

 

[MaCheFai]

Compacting or not compacting? I thought I wasn't supposed to compact the grains prior to sparge?

Milling could have effected your efficiancy. The GF likes a pretty fine crush(with a good amount of rice hulls). Also compacting the grainbed well before sparging helps a lot. I looked into quick connects a while ago and hit the same dead end you are. Would love to hear if you find them. [emoji482]

 

[jaymosbeershack]

Compacting or not compacting? I thought I wasn't supposed to compact the grains prior to sparge?

Do push down on the top screen, it will slow down the sparge water and let it pull out more sugar.

 

[jaymosbeershack]

I actually do a batch sparge in mine. The description of my prosess is near the top of page 408 in this thread.

 

[MaCheFai]

I actually do a batch sparge in mine. The description of my prosess is near the top of page 408 in this thread.

Thanks for the tip, will definitely try pushing it down on the next batch. Can you clarify the page you referenced? I checked pages 40 and 48, but no luck.

 

[jaymosbeershack]

Thanks for the tip, will definitely try pushing it down on the next batch. Can you clarify the page you referenced? I checked pages 40 and 48, but no luck.

It should be on the previous page from this one. About 13 posts back.

 

[nepatsfan1]

Dumb question guys. I have noticed the last 10 of the mash has mash out on the controller. Is it supposed to raise the temp or do you need to manually raise or add a another step to the recipe?

 

[MaCheFai]

Dumb question guys. I have noticed the last 10 of the mash has mash out on the controller. Is it supposed to raise the temp or do you need to manually raise or add a another step to the recipe?

Unless you specifically direct it to raise temp to mash out, either on the controller or as part of your recipe, it'll hold steady at it's current temp.

 

[MaCheFai]

Milling could have effected your efficiancy. The GF likes a pretty fine crush(with a good amount of rice hulls). Also compacting the grainbed well before sparging helps a lot. I looked into quick connects a while ago and hit the same dead end you are. Would love to hear if you find them. [emoji482]

The connectors arrived last night, I will try and get it all taped up this weekend and make sure all works as expected w/o leaks. Everything looked good at first glance, but I have a Berliner souring at the moment, so didn't want to mess with it. If all goes as expected, I'll post the parts list.

 

[MaCheFai]

Okay, just a quick follow up on the quick connects. It seems I really overthought the threads. I based it all on some pics I found online from Grainfather, but the US version appears to be different. No shocker there. So this upgrade only required the following parts(i'm sure you can find them less expensive):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PK00FDM/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DKXZT1K/

I ended up removing the ballspring piece and just connected it all straight together. I also added another ball lock with a barb fitting to my chiller so I can easily swap it in/out as needed. I have a brew coming up and am excited to see how it helps with the process. I just know the screwing and unscrewing of the recirculation arm was getting on my nerves.

 

[Jag75]

Ty pblocked for that update

 

[jaymosbeershack]

Thats awesome and in the near future for me. Thank you

 

[Jag75]

Pblocked , so you bought 2 sets of those parts , one for the Gf and one for the cfc. You also just took out the ball and spring from the recirc pipe . Do I have that right ?

 

[doogster]

Okay, just a quick follow up on the quick connects. It seems I really overthought the threads. I based it all on some pics I found online from Grainfather, but the US version appears to be different. No shocker there. So this upgrade only required the following parts(i'm sure you can find them less expensive):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PK00FDM/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DKXZT1K/

I ended up removing the ballspring piece and just connected it all straight together. I also added another ball lock with a barb fitting to my chiller so I can easily swap it in/out as needed. I have a brew coming up and am excited to see how it helps with the process. I just know the screwing and unscrewing of the recirculation arm was getting on my nerves.

View attachment 609746 View attachment 609747

Great. I am doing this! So 2 of the Quick Disconnects and the one thread reducer should do it.

 

[MaCheFai]

Here's a step by step and another pic to help clarify:

1) I removed the ball/spring check valve.
2) I added a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer to the open/close ball valve.
3) I attached a 1/2" threaded male ball lock to the 1/2" side of the reducer.
4) I added a barbed female ball lock to some 3/8" hosing.
5) I added another barbed female ball lock to my CFC.

 

[nepatsfan1]

Unless you specifically direct it to raise temp to mash out, either on the controller or as part of your recipe, it'll hold steady at it's current temp.

So I added a 10 min mash out step to the recipe I am doing Sunday. I do 75 min mashes so I have 1st step at 65 at 152 and I added a second step at 170 for 10 mins. Will see how that goes.

 

[elgee]

I have found that doing a slow fly sparge has helped my efficiency. I take a bottling bucket with the valve, add the hose to that, add my sparge water and let it slowly drain into the GF. Basically, the same way you would fly sparge with the igloo cooler method.

My only issue is the damn hop/grain filter cap constantly pops off and then grain and hops clog the ball valve. I’ll probably have to just remove the spring and little steel ball and hopefully that fixes it. I emailed the GF people and they were useless for a fix to the filter issue. Should have made a screw on cap and not a rubber cap.

 

[MtnHiBrewin]

elgee, I hold the filter cap on with a stainless steel hose clamp. I've been told a stainless hitch pin works well also.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZFR73U/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[jaymosbeershack]

I must be the lucky one, my pump screen has never given me an issue(except when i forgot to put it on that one time) i do think a screw on cap would have been nice.

 

[elgee]

I’ll give the clamp a go, can’t get any worse, especially when brewing a NEIPA and all those whirlpool hops.

 

[senkl005]

Does anyone know if you can use the Alembic Dome Still Assembly as a boil steam condenser like the steam slayer or the condenser-boss? I really want to move the grainfather inside but worry about the steam production in my unfinished basement.

Thanks,
Jon

 

[doogster]

I have found that doing a slow fly sparge has helped my efficiency. I take a bottling bucket with the valve, add the hose to that, add my sparge water and let it slowly drain into the GF. Basically, the same way you would fly sparge with the igloo cooler method.

My only issue is the damn hop/grain filter cap constantly pops off and then grain and hops clog the ball valve. I’ll probably have to just remove the spring and little steel ball and hopefully that fixes it. I emailed the GF people and they were useless for a fix to the filter issue. Should have made a screw on cap and not a rubber cap.

I just reverse it so the rubber cap is up against the thermo well.

Note:
Just make sure that, when you turn the filter over, you also rotate the black silicone tube in the filter housing so that the inlet hole faces down.
**Thanks Minky for the reminder about this**

 

[murphyslaw]

Just did my 9th GF batch since I got mine about a year ago. What a fantastic piece of equipment.

I just reverse it so the rubber cap is up against the thermo well.

View attachment 610516

My cap has never fallen off, but that's a good idea. I've always done it the other way thinking the cap might interfere with the probe.

 

[gotbeer74]

I just reverse it so the rubber cap is up against the thermo well.

View attachment 610516

Saw this post yesterday prior to brewing. I brewed after reading it and my cap fell off sometime after the mash. 54 batches and this was the first time. What a pain to try and clear the pump of the clog. I will be changing the direction of my filter from this point on.

 

[Minky]

Saw this post yesterday prior to brewing. I brewed after reading it and my cap fell off sometime after the mash. 54 batches and this was the first time. What a pain to try and clear the pump of the clog. I will be changing the direction of my filter from this point on.

Just make sure that, when you turn the filter over, you also rotate the black silicone tube in the filter housing so that the inlet hole faces down.

 

[hopjuice_71]

Just make sure that, when you turn the filter over, you also rotate the black silicone tube in the filter housing so that the inlet hole faces down.

I've only had a problem with the filter once, but it was a nightmare. This seems like really cheap insurance. Any issues with registering correct temperature?

Cheers

 

[doogster]

Just make sure that, when you turn the filter over, you also rotate the black silicone tube in the filter housing so that the inlet hole faces down.

Thanks Minky! I did forget to clarify that in my original post. I wi

I've only had a problem with the filter once, but it was a nightmare. This seems like really cheap insurance. Any issues with registering correct temperature?

Cheers

No - I checked it to be sure... but if you see, its only the very tip of the probe thats agains the rubber... not to mention everything is bathing in hot water/wort.

 

[gotbeer74]

Just make sure that, when you turn the filter over, you also rotate the black silicone tube in the filter housing so that the inlet hole faces down.

Yes I spun it around right away

 

[Reaperswoman]

I have been brewing on the GF since they came to the US. I believe that nothing else would have made me an all grain brewer. I switch back and forth on brewing all grain in the GF and using it as a kettle for Dry Extract batches. I also like that I can double batch low alcohol beers. Stout or a wheat is easy to double batch, I transfer 2.5 gallons into 2 ferments and to off with bottled spring water. Works great when brewing for a beerfest.

 

[pkgmsu2000]

You can do up to a 20 lb grain bill, so you can calculate the gravity from that. I love my Grainfather.

In my experience, over 12 brews now, I have found that optimal results and target numbers are achieved with a maximum grain bill of around 15 lbs. sure, you can use more pounds in the mash, but had to deal with more issues - pump, filter, efficiency, sparge, etc.

 

[pkgmsu2000]

You can only do this during the boil right? I'm assuming it won't fit with the basket in place. I do a lot of step mashes, so more power would really move things along.

I specifically chose the GF over other options because I wanted to do step mashes all the time and thought the GF would make step mashes really easy and simple and effortless. Unfortunately this has not been the case but still happy overall with great tasting brews... just have been disappointed with the step mashing process.

 

[murphyslaw]

I specifically chose the GF over other options because I wanted to do step mashes all the time and thought the GF would make step mashes really easy and simple and effortless. Unfortunately this has not been the case but still happy overall with great tasting brews... just have been disappointed with the step mashing process.

Why is that? If you put the various rests into the recipe and send it to the controller, it does the steps automatically.

 

[skleice]

I specifically chose the GF over other options because I wanted to do step mashes all the time and thought the GF would make step mashes really easy and simple and effortless. Unfortunately this has not been the case but still happy overall with great tasting brews... just have been disappointed with the step mashing process.

What's not to lov? Takes too long?

I love sitting on my couch upstairs while the GF manages my steps in the basement. It's awesome!

 

[chillandbrew]

I specifically chose the GF over other options because I wanted to do step mashes all the time and thought the GF would make step mashes really easy and simple and effortless. Unfortunately this has not been the case but still happy overall with great tasting brews... just have been disappointed with the step mashing process.

What exactly do you mean? The GF takes care of the steps.

 

[jschein]

With the Bluetooth controller and the GF app you can program the whole brewing cycle

 

[pkgmsu2000]

GF is not good at holding temp ranges in step mashes, nor the actual mash itself. Go back around 50 pages when peeps suggested taking mash temperature with tools other than the GF temp probe. You will see that typically the actual mash is higher than what probe at bottom reads. This greatly reduces your ability to dial in the style you want to brew (dry vs. sweet) (144F - 156F)

 

[MaCheFai]

GF is not good at holding temp ranges in step mashes, nor the actual mash itself. Go back around 50 pages when peeps suggested taking mash temperature with tools other than the GF temp probe. You will see that typically the actual mash is higher than what probe at bottom reads. This greatly reduces your ability to dial in the style you want to brew (dry vs. sweet) (144F - 156F)

I actually just watched a video last night where David Heath recently compared controller temps between the latest robobrew and the GF. He posted his various mash temps trials and compared the onboard temp against a calibrated thermometer. They both seemed fairly accurate, the GF was within 0.5 degrees on avg. See here:

 

[murphyslaw]

GF is not good at holding temp ranges in step mashes, nor the actual mash itself. Go back around 50 pages when peeps suggested taking mash temperature with tools other than the GF temp probe. You will see that typically the actual mash is higher than what probe at bottom reads. This greatly reduces your ability to dial in the style you want to brew (dry vs. sweet) (144F - 156F)

I dont do it regularly, but I once checked the temp of the wort returning through recirculation pipe and as far into the grain as my thermapen could reach and it matched the GF temp read out.

Holding the mash at a particular temp is practically the whole purpose of the GF. If your temps are off, perhaps theres a problem with your probe.