Grainfather!!

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Congrats on your new purchase ! I was off on my efficiency on both of my 16 lb brew. Was spot on on the last one 10lbs. I've been told on big grain bills to stir the mash a couple times. As of the recirc arm and cfc quick connects I dont know but I'm curious now .


Just to circle back on the efficiencies. I brewed two beers since this post. The first was a 10# Berliner and I beat my numbers by a lot. Need to go back and see how many points, but think it was over 5. Kettle souring came out awesome by the way!

On Sunday I brewed a big stout with 18.5# and missed my target by 1 point, came in at 1.098. And I know where it probably was, the water totals were hard to eyeball, 5.9 and 2.6. Had my efficiency set to 74% and I ended up stirring 4 times during the mash. I’m pretty happy with that!

Quick connects were so much easier too! They got a little toasty handling during boil, but was way easier, less frustrating and way less messy.
 
Nice man that's good numbers right there. A thought just occured to me . I wonder if the water calculation in the GF book comes out to a different number on the GF app. Reason being when I used the book I was off on my numbers . When I used the app I was pretty spot on . Glad the quick connects are working out for you .
 
Nice man that's good numbers right there. A thought just occured to me . I wonder if the water calculation in the GF book comes out to a different number on the GF app. Reason being when I used the book I was off on my numbers . When I used the app I was pretty spot on . Glad the quick connects are working out for you .

Never used a book? Are you referring the formula they provide in the manual? I've only ever used the online calc's and the online recipe crafter.
 
Hey guys, I have been following the thread for the last six months. My wife got me a Grainfather for Valentines Day, but I already went another way for my home brewery.

I am willing to cut someone a deal here for the package. I have a brand new Grainfather Connect, Grainfather Sparage Tank and the Graincoat. Looking to get $950 for all plus shipping. All brand new, unopened. If not, I’ll pay the return shipping back.
 
Hey guys, I have been following the thread for the last six months. My wife got me a Grainfather for Valentines Day, but I already went another way for my home brewery.

I am willing to cut someone a deal here for the package. I have a brand new Grainfather Connect, Grainfather Sparage Tank and the Graincoat. Looking to get $950 for all plus shipping. All brand new, unopened. If not, I’ll pay the return shipping back.

Dang that was nice of her . I would post this on the for sale section. At this price it should go quick .
 
Nice man that's good numbers right there. A thought just occured to me . I wonder if the water calculation in the GF book comes out to a different number on the GF app. Reason being when I used the book I was off on my numbers . When I used the app I was pretty spot on . Glad the quick connects are working out for you .
It looks like there is some discrepancy between the manual and the online calculator.
For example: a recipe with 5 kg of malt

Manual:
Mash water 17 L
Sparge water 15 L
"boil times are usually between 60-90 minutes"

Online calculator
Mash water 17L
Sparge water 14 L for a 60 minutes boil and 15 L for a 90 minutes boil.
That makes sense, the longer time we boil, the more water evaporates.



Another factor is the voltage. The online calculator takes it into account and the manual doesn't.
A 220 Volts unit has more power than the 110 Volts one ,so the boiling time being equal, the 220 V units will evaporate more water.

To resume :) the results match if we select 110 Volts and 90 minutes boiling time.

Jacques
 
It looks like there is some discrepancy between the manual and the online calculator.
For example: a recipe with 5 kg of malt

Manual:
Mash water 17 L
Sparge water 15 L
"boil times are usually between 60-90 minutes"

Online calculator
Mash water 17L
Sparge water 14 L for a 60 minutes boil and 15 L for a 90 minutes boil.
That makes sense, the longer time we boil, the more water evaporates.



Another factor is the voltage. The online calculator takes it into account and the manual doesn't.
A 220 Volts unit has more power than the 110 Volts one ,so the boiling time being equal, the 220 V units will evaporate more water.

To resume :) the results match if we select 110 Volts and 90 minutes boiling time.

Jacques

Yep, most of us have altered our calculations to fit our brew day to our environment after a few brews. I have repeatedly asked GF to fix these calculations but they aren’t interested in doing that.
 
I dont do it regularly, but I once checked the temp of the wort returning through recirculation pipe and as far into the grain as my thermapen could reach and it matched the GF temp read out.

Holding the mash at a particular temp is practically the whole purpose of the GF. If your temps are off, perhaps theres a problem with your probe.


I would have more faith in the temperature probe if it didn’t fall out of the port every time my cat breathed on it :yes: It should be securely held in place, not loosey goosey
 
Hey guys, I have been following the thread for the last six months. My wife got me a Grainfather for Valentines Day, but I already went another way for my home brewery.

I am willing to cut someone a deal here for the package. I have a brand new Grainfather Connect, Grainfather Sparage Tank and the Graincoat. Looking to get $950 for all plus shipping. All brand new, unopened. If not, I’ll pay the return shipping back.
PM if you still have it
 
The bigger the grain bill the more stirring has an impact on efficiency. I’ve started taking refractometer readings throughout the mash on bigger beers and it’s amazing how much longer it can take. The tall and narrow mash bed is definitely not your friend.

I like taking refractometer readings during the mash too. But I never know what I should be aiming for because some of the sugar is still stuck to the grain and I still have to sparge. I've been mashing for 2 hours just to be sure and getting crazy high efficiencies. But I'd love to know what I should be seeing during the mash.

I love my refractometer. I could not go back to a hydrometer.
 
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The bigger the grain bill the more stirring has an impact on efficiency. I’ve started taking refractometer readings throughout the mash on bigger beers and it’s amazing how much longer it can take. The tall and narrow mash bed is definitely not your friend.

So how does stirring during the mash work (I only have 3 brews at this point on my GF)? Do you leave the top screen off throughout the mash process, or are you taking and out and putting it back in? If you left it off, then you put it in before sparging?
 
So how does stirring during the mash work (I only have 3 brews at this point on my GF)? Do you leave the top screen off throughout the mash process, or are you taking and out and putting it back in? If you left it off, then you put it in before sparging?

You may want to start with getting on youtube and watching all of the David Heath "How To Videos". Super informative and covers both the basics and more advanced methods.
 
To me it looks like stirring the mash goes against the basic idea of the grainfather ? : start the pump and forget about it
 
Speaking of Grainfather videos, I'm looking for an older one, probably from 2015/2016. The brewing occurs in a larger room with a longer counter top. It isn't in a kitchen. And I think the brewer does 2 batches, back to back or has 2 Grainfathers running.

I'd like to see this video again. Does anyone have a link ?
 
So how does stirring during the mash work (I only have 3 brews at this point on my GF)? Do you leave the top screen off throughout the mash process, or are you taking and out and putting it back in? If you left it off, then you put it in before sparging?

Yeah just turn the heat and pump off, take the top plate off, stir, put it back on, start recirc again.
 
To me it looks like stirring the mash goes against the basic idea of the grainfather ? : start the pump and forget about it

Not on big grain bills... the poor design of the tall and narrow basket creates too deep of a bed depth so you get poor circulation through the entire grain bed. Smaller grain bills it’s not an issue.
 
There is the alternative. Drag all your equipment from the basement outside and go old school. Oh and it’s 20* outside and your outside faucets are turned off so they won’t freeze.

I’ll give up a measly few percentage points to brew inside with the ease of the GF.

Don’t over think it. Brew, ferment, keg, drink...repeat.
 
Not on big grain bills... the poor design of the tall and narrow basket creates too deep of a bed depth so you get poor circulation through the entire grain bed. Smaller grain bills it’s not an issue.

Rice hulls will fix any perceived grain bed flow issue you might have.

The other thing is you can increase the hydraulic pressure (head) of the bed liquids by running liquid deeper over the bed surface. Set the stand pipe higher.
 
Stirring the grain takes maximum 2

But they cause another issue.

And what issue is that ?

I agree that periodically stirring the bed is a viable solution.

Let's not forget that commercial grain beds are way deeper than ~12". Diameter is irrelevant. Mash for a longer time to make up for less flow.
 
For reasons unclear (but likely related to playing nintendo while brewing) I turned off the heat after mashing in on my BIPA last night. The GF didn't scream at me for my stupidity and everything looked nice and normal until I noticed the temperature was 61°C about 30 minutes later. Turned heat on again and off it went... except it seemed to take longer than expected and at the end of the mash I had massive foaming (luckily it was a half batch to no foam over). There was no foam at all before I turned the heat on.
At the start of the boil there was minimal foaming.

Hit my numbers no problems.

Possible causes?

BIPA Foam.jpg
 
I've picked up foam when the recirculation arm is not connected just right, allowing air to sneak into the system. I've also seen in in brews using lots of oats or similar adjuncts.
 
I'm so tempted to pull the trigger on a GF. Right now NB has a 20% off coupon that makes it $799 + free shipping! :)

Although, I suppose then I would be supporting ABInBev...:smh:

But, saving $200 is hard to pass up for someone on a budget stretching to even make the purchase in the first place.
 
Although, I suppose then I would be supporting ABInBev...:smh:

But, saving $200 is hard to pass up for someone on a budget stretching to even make the purchase in the first place.

I had a tough time with that as well. But saving money in today’s day and age is a necessity. I don’t think anyone will hold that against you.
 
I'm so tempted to pull the trigger on a GF. Right now NB has a 20% off coupon that makes it $799 + free shipping! :)

I'd take a very hard look at the Robobrew 3.1 35L version as well as the "Brewzilla" 65L version that should be released in the US shortly. The latter is 220V.
 
Can you explain why using rice hulls cause problems ?

On large grain bills especially when you get too much porosity in the grain bed the sparge water will flow right through it too fast and your efficiency suffers. Due to the nature of how sparging is conducted with the GF a slower sparge is crucial to maximize efficiency.
 
On large grain bills especially when you get too much porosity in the grain bed the sparge water will flow right through it too fast and your efficiency suffers. Due to the nature of how sparging is conducted with the GF a slower sparge is crucial to maximize efficiency.

The original problem of "rice hulls cause problems" was a complaint of poor flow. So surely somewhere between "not enough flow" and too much flow is the right amount of rice hulls.
 
Although, I suppose then I would be supporting ABInBev...:smh:

But, saving $200 is hard to pass up for someone on a budget stretching to even make the purchase in the first place.
Got mine from AIH when nb had 20% off awhile back.Called AIH and they matched the price.I sent them a screenshot of my cart from nb with the discount
 
My LHB matched my online pricing as well, paid $850. I would try that first. Besides having it immediately, you're helping out a LHB store!
 
There was some talk a week or two ago about whether the GF maintains the right temps so I tested it.

I stopped the pump, took off the top plate, ditzed around for a min or two, then stuck my thermapen in as deep as I could. 2 degrees lower than the set temp. I'd say that's pretty good. Might have been closer if I was faster.
20190302_194838.jpeg
 
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