I did almost the same grain bill for my barley wine, HC at 3% though, plus I added invert number 2. The heritage crystal needed about half a year to age out it's harshness. Afterwards, beautiful beer, before, just so so. I've had hc ruin 10% hc bitters twice, because I couldn't believe that HC was the reason for the harshness in the beer. I don't use HC anymore.Finally got my British IPA into the kegerator, carbed up and looking good.
It looks a lot darker that is really is in the picture. Still a little murky but I expect the last of that will clear up in the fridge. It's been burst carbed hence the inappropriate Belgian head. Dialled that down now.
It's very good. Marmalade, a little tropical fruit, earthy traditional hops. Quite bitter and dry. Very drinkable though.
I think if I was redoing it I'd probably not use Target for bittering, go for something a little more mellow and less snappy as it slightly overpowers the fruity aftertaste. I also think I'd pull back some of the darker crystal malts- this was 95% Chev and 5% Heritage Crystal and whilst it's good, I think I could have pulled the HC down to 2% with maybe 3% of something like golden naked oats. Because it's fermented pretty dry I think the additional mouth feel from the oats would do it wonders as well as smoothing the slightly jagged edges out.
Whoever said that Heritage Crystal comes in darker than you expect from 180 EBC was totally spot on though!
So...perfect for my upcoming Old Ale!The heritage crystal needed about half a year to age out it's harshness. Afterwards, beautiful beer
I'm 99% sure the bite on this is Target rather than the HC...on the HC front what sort of "harshness" were you experiencing?I've had hc ruin 10% hc bitters twice, because I couldn't believe that HC was the reason for the harshness in the beer.
Unpleasant bitterness at the back of the tongue. I don't know how to describe it in another way. Only thing I can say is that I was also 99% sure that it was somehow hop related, which is why I brewed the beer twice with different hops but the same unpleasant harshness remained. Once the HC was ditched, the resulting bitter was without the harshness. These were relatively quick turnaround bitters though. This malt can work in a long term aging situation, but then don't overdo it. Two to three percent in a strong beer is already plenty! Also, it doesn't seem to generate any sweetness that one might expect from using crystal malt.So...perfect for my upcoming Old Ale!
I'm 99% sure the bite on this is Target rather than the HC...on the HC front what sort of "harshness" were you experiencing?
I'm planning to open a bottle of last years edition one of these days.Got some of this years ration...
Hope so, didn't like the one bottle I bought back in the days at all .I had the last bottle of the 2019 edition a few weeks ago, and still have 3 left of the 2021.
They really get better with age.
Same for me. Bought a bottle of the 2018 vintage last year and it was far too sweet for me. The Imperial Stout however is something I could drink litres of.Hope so, didn't like the one bottle I bought back in the days at all .
I think that oats are fairly untypical for a UK style old ale. Also seven percent crystal is a lot in this higher gravity beer. I personally wouldn't go beyond five, probably only use three percent crystal.Anyone got a go-to old ale recipe they're had a lot of success with?
I've been playing with recipes today, 85% MO, 5% invert and 3% golden naked oats with the remaining 7% split between a darkish, fruit-forward crystal, and maybe 1% pale chocolate for about 8% ABV and a 1.018 FG. Dunno what to do regarding hops though.
Looks good!Some invert cooked up a few hours ago, will be used in a bitter tomorrow.
That might have been a bit too quick. I usually let it simmer for half an hour+ to make sure inversion is almost completely done.Thank you, used a 50/50 Demerara/light muscovado mix.
No caramellisation just let it simmer for 10 min after adding the acid then neutralised with a little over .5g of sodium bicarbonate.
Yes can be the case, depending on the ph.Forgot to add I added the acid at 80c then let it reach a simmer, then hold it there for 10 min.
As I understand it the inversion process is rather quick.
Don't hesitate to make an overbuilt starter from that vial before you pitch, and save some out for a next brew. Even the starter beer (the supernatant) can be very tasty!Got this in the mail today, for my upcoming Stock Ale that will be brewed during the Christmas leave.
I am gonna brew it as an ordinary ale first, then rack to a PET carboy with some (a load of) hops, boiled oak cubes and brett and then forget about it for ~6 months.Don't hesitate to make an overbuilt starter from that vial before you pitch, and save some out for a next brew. Even the starter beer (the supernatant) can be very tasty!
Is this Brett going to be a copitch with sacch or just added later for long term conditioning?
My recipe isI'm interested in your recipe. I've got last year's batch of brett'd Gunstock Ale ready to enjoy for Christmas. I'm going to do another stock ale next week too, this time with Wyeast's sacc/brett blend. Not quite settled on the recipe yet.
Here's where I am at the moment.
1.099/60IBU
80% Best Pale Ale
5% C45
5% Wheat
10% Invert #2
154/1hr
90m boil
30 IBU FWH Cluster
30 IBU 90m Cluster
1/4oz Oak Secondary
EKG DH Secondary
Make sure you have enough beer to fill the secondary 1-2" under the bung. Try to prevent oxidation wherever possible.I am gonna brew it as an ordinary ale first, then rack to a PET carboy with some (a load of) hops, boiled oak cubes and brett and then forget about it for ~6 months.
With a 5% addition I don't think it's going to matter much but thats just my opinion not backed by anything. Do you know what the ratio is to completely neutralize it is? I've seen where some say it'sThere is no need to neutralize invert sugar to pH 7 for adding to the boil, which usually targets pH 5.2 for optimum performance of copper finings. When added during fermentation, 4.5 will be a better target pH.
It tastes different when baking soda is added when it is still boiling. Also colour changes quickly, it darkens a bit further. But the main thing to me is the flavour change. This liquorice kind of flavour that darker sugars bring gets more subdued and other flavours come more to the front. I prefer it with the neutralisation step. I did some before/after side by side taste tests.There is no need to neutralize invert sugar to pH 7 for adding to the boil, which usually targets pH 5.2 for optimum performance of copper finings. When added during fermentation, 4.5 will be a better target pH.
I noticed this to regarding the flavor when I added the baking soda for the first time today. I thought the taste was more pleasant and complex.It tastes different when baking soda is added when it is still boiling. Also colour changes quickly, it darkens a bit further. But the main thing to me is the flavour change. This liquorice kind of flavour that darker sugars bring gets more subdued and other flavours come more to the front. I prefer it with the neutralisation step. I did some before/after side by side taste tests.
I plan to fill the carboy up to the neck, or at least almost up to the neck, although I suppose the brett secondary ferment will push out oxygen, as opposed to an "inert" secondary.Make sure you have enough beer to fill the secondary 1-2" under the bung. Try to prevent oxidation wherever possible.
I've been using 100% liquid pre-purged kegs as secondaries for beers that need aging, and with very good success.
I plan to fill the carboy up to the neck, or at least almost up to the neck, although I suppose the brett secondary ferment will push out oxygen, as opposed to an "inert" secondary.
I think in a way I actually want some micro-oxidation, to mimic the cask ageing that beer if this type would have seen, that's why I throw in some oak cubes.
Enter your email address to join: