Electrical Components Thread

[passedpawn]

Well of course you know the question now... which one out there (for cheap) can survive 220F? I would think this is more about the sensor than the plastic tolerance, but I might be wrong.

It's all about the plastic. There is an internal turbine that spins. It has a little magnet that passes a hall effect sensor, which then creates a pulse. The meter just measures the pulses per second and converts that to flow ( it must already be aware of the relationship between p/s and flow for this flow sensor).

The magnet and hall effect sensor are not affected by the temp. The temp rating is only for the type of plastic used.

March pumps use polysulfone, which is rated for boiling temps I guess.

 

[CidahMastah]

It's all about the plastic. There is an internal turbine that spins. It has a little magnet that passes a hall effect sensor, which then creates a pulse. The meter just measures the pulses per second and converts that to flow ( it must already be aware of the relationship between p/s and flow for this flow sensor).

The magnet and hall effect sensor are not affected by the temp. The temp rating is only for the type of plastic used.

March pumps use polysulfone, which is rated for boiling temps I guess.

so you are saying if I bought that flow meter you posted for $20 bucks I would be ok, except for the plastic? That I would not fry the sensor (I ordered one by the way to see if it would survive a brew session)

When I read the specs of the prodynamics one for $199 it clearly states 212F

 

[passedpawn]

so you are saying if I bought that flow meter you posted for $20 bucks I would be ok, except for the plastic? That I would not fry the sensor (I ordered one by the way to see if it would survive a brew session)

When I read the specs of the prodynamics one for $199 it clearly states 212F

Right. That's what I'm saying. I don't know for sure, but it's an educated guess.

 

[CidahMastah]

Right. That's what I'm saying. I don't know for sure, but it's an educated guess.

When I get it, I will hook it up and give it a try with MT and HLT activities. Worst case I will have wasted ~$20. Best case I will buy another and get out of having to think about installing sight glasses on my BK and HLT. For those activities I don't have to recirc at high temps for a long time. Just enough to fill/empty kettles. For the BK side I need something that could handle 212 because I need to recirc to sanitize my pump before the brew goes to the fermenter.

Man if I could get a robust one for the 212F rating for $100 I would probably do it. It would be cheaper than two of the nicer sight glasses from more beer and I prefer the technology approach as long as it works well.

 

[passedpawn]

When I get it, I will hook it up and give it a try with MT and HLT activities. Worst case I will have wasted ~$20. Best case I will buy another and get out of having to think about installing sight glasses on my BK and HLT. For those activities I don't have to recirc at high temps for a long time. Just enough to fill/empty kettles. For the BK side I need something that could handle 212 because I need to recirc to sanitize my pump before the brew goes to the fermenter.

Man if I could get a robust one for the 212F rating for $100 I would probably do it. It would be cheaper than two of the nicer sight glasses from more beer and I prefer the technology approach as long as it works well.

If you really want automation, a peristaltic pump would be a great way to go. By their nature they can pump a very specific amount. I have a small medical one that I used to use as a dosing pump for a fish tank. but the large ones can move some serious fluid and could be used to measure a specific amount to be pumped. I think there are members here (bobby_m?) that have large peristaltics that you could poll.

 

[CidahMastah]

If you really want automation, a peristaltic pump would be a great way to go. By their nature they can pump a very specific amount. I have a small medical one that I used to use as a dosing pump for a fish tank. but the large ones can move some serious fluid and could be used to measure a specific amount to be pumped. I think there are members here (bobby_m?) that have large peristaltics that you could poll.

I don't think I am heading towards full automation (not using a software approach to brewing just yet). But I am interested in something that might allow me to more or less pump strike/sparge/preboil volumes on the fly to what I need for a given brew. i.e. Doesn't have to be automated, just a meter that says I have pumped 4.5g of first runnings, so I know I will then have to pump 8.5g of sparge water to get to 13g total preboil volume (trying to dodge sightglasses and have more accuracy).

Any p/n or links? Or should I check in with Bobby directly? Maybe time to start a new thread on the topic as we have hijacked this one .

 

[Bsquared]

I don't think I am heading towards full automation (not using a software approach to brewing just yet). But I am interested in something that might allow me to more or less pump strike/sparge/preboil volumes on the fly to what I need for a given brew. i.e. Doesn't have to be automated, just a meter that says I have pumped 4.5g of first runnings, so I know I will then have to pump 8.5g of sparge water to get to 13g total preboil volume (trying to dodge sightglasses and have more accuracy).

Any p/n or links? Or should I check in with Bobby directly? Maybe time to start a new thread on the topic as we have hijacked this one .

You guys want to move the conversation over here
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/flow-metering-317094/#post3942207

 

[CidahMastah]

You guys want to move the conversation over here
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/flow-metering-317094/#post3942207

sounds good - you beat me to it

 

[lschiavo]

This all died since you guys took your discussion elswhere. There are no more components to recommend?

 

[Bsquared]

Sorry, I felt bad hijacking the thread. I figured this would be a good sticky and didn't want to muddle it up too much.

 

[EarthBound]

This is a good idea for a thread. I suggest searching for local used electronic parts stores, like OEM Parts in Colorado Springs. That's where I bought almost every electrical component for my hybrid brewstand: the GFCI breaker, terminal blocks, terminal connectors, junction boxes, flexible conduit, receptacles and plugs, heat sinks, DC and AC fans, ASCO solenoid valves, the enclosure, lights and buzzer, transformers, all the different gauges of wire, all the different kinds of switches, all the different kinds of relays, etc. Notice that the only electrical components for my hybrid brewstand that I didn't mention are the PIDs, timer, RTDs, heating elements, and pumps. Because of shopping at OEM Parts, I saved hundreds of dollars compared to eBay, which is usually the second place I look for electronic parts.

 

[Bsquared]

Good point EarthBound,

Anyone in San Diego, Willy's electronics has lots of mounting components, XLR sockets, panel Cat-5 plugs, and relays for good prices.

 

[kal]

They shipped very quickly, and the breaker was clearly new and not a fake.

I'm not questioning the site you mention (I have no experience with them) but how could you possibly know it not fake? Companies like Pioneer Breaker (ebay name 'electrical_parts') made millions of dollars worth of fake breakers for years that had all the proper labelling on them. They looked identical and from what people could tell worked the same way too. They simply were not CSA/UL certified properly (fake stickers).

Kal

 

[EarthBound]

I'm not questioning the site you mention (I have no experience with them) but how could you possibly know it not fake? Companies like Pioneer Breaker (ebay name 'electrical_parts') made millions of dollars worth of fake breakers for years that had all the proper labelling on them. They looked identical and from what people could tell worked the same way too. They simply were not CSA/UL certified properly (fake stickers).

Kal

Do they say "Pioneer" on the breakers, or do they spoof breakers from Cutler-Hammer, Square D, etc?

 

[CidahMastah]

Do they say "Pioneer" on the breakers, or do they spoof breakers from Cutler-Hammer, Square D, etc?

Pioneer Breaker

http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/

they are a reseller.

All that said I have bought things from this company (not breakers) but contactors, pilot lights, enclosures, switches etc. And all have been good quality to date. The contactors I bought, 2 of them, have been in service for about 1.5 years or so. Still going.

Not saying Kal doesn't have a valid point, just pointing out I have had a good experience with this company for the components I listed above.

http://www.schneider-electric.us/documents/support/news-advertising/BreakersUnlimited.pdf

looks like square D was one of the faked breakers (not sure if breakers unlimited is associated with pioneer breaker).

But this is

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/uhhh-anyone-see-pioneer-breaker-287420/

http://law.justia.com/cases/federal/district-courts/texas/txwdce/1:2007cv00810/261401/194

 

[EarthBound]

Pioneer Breaker

http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/

they are a reseller.

All that said I have bought things from this company (not breakers) but contactors, pilot lights, enclosures, switches etc. And all have been good quality to date. The contactors I bought, 2 of them, have been in service for about 1.5 years or so. Still going.

Not saying Kal doesn't have a valid point, just pointing out I have had a good experience with this company for the components I listed above.

http://www.schneider-electric.us/documents/support/news-advertising/BreakersUnlimited.pdf

looks like square D was one of the faked breakers (not sure if breakers unlimited is associated with pioneer breaker).

But this is

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/uhhh-anyone-see-pioneer-breaker-287420/

http://law.justia.com/cases/federal/district-courts/texas/txwdce/1:2007cv00810/261401/194

Wow, that is some crazy ****... It's a good thing to have that information on this thread, IMO.

 

[CidahMastah]

Wow, that is some crazy ****... It's a good thing to have that information on this thread, IMO.

Yes it sure it. Luckily it looks like this took place circa 2007+ and has been resolved with a wrist slap late 2011/this year. However to Kal's point, you might want to look at another vendor for your square D breakers (and maybe other products). Which is hard to do with the killer deal they have through ebay for enclosures and free shipping on whatever fits in the enclosure.

 

[kal]

Sorry for the derail guys... my point wasn't to "out" Pioneer Breaker (there's been discussion about it in the past). It was to simply point out that even if you think something isn't fake, you really don't know.

Kal

 

[cscade]

I'm not questioning the site you mention (I have no experience with them) but how could you possibly know it not fake? Companies like Pioneer Breaker (ebay name 'electrical_parts') made millions of dollars worth of fake breakers for years that had all the proper labelling on them. They looked identical and from what people could tell worked the same way too. They simply were not CSA/UL certified properly (fake stickers).

Kal

Kal, you're right in that I can't positively verify the authenticity of what I received. What encouraged me to believe that the part is legitimate is just my overall impression, along with the fact that it arrived in a properly branded/printed matching box that identically matched the look and weight of the Homeline boxes I've received from brick and mortar sellers. I guess I would expect a counterfeit part to not have associated counterfeit packaging on a part like this, but perhaps I'm just being naive.

Either way, I hope I didn't get taken

 

[haeffnkr]

What are some sources for plastic enclosure panel boxes?

thanks Kevin

 

[lschiavo]

What are some sources for plastic enclosure panel boxes?

thanks Kevin

Good question! I can get a 12x12x6 for a little under $50. That is as a contractor. I think there has to be a better deal out there somewhere.

 

[bdjohns1]

Good question! I can get a 12x12x6 for a little under $50. That is as a contractor. I think there has to be a better deal out there somewhere.

I got a 12x12x6 gray PVC enclosure from my local Menard's for $33 or so. I had to get my own piece of sheet metal to use for the backplate, but that was only a few bucks more. That gave me enough room inside for 3 PID modules, the SSRs (external heat sink through holes), 2 relays for the single element selection, a main contactor, and all the usual selector switches with stacked contact blocks to support safe-start relay a la Kal. I mounted a 110 receptacle with in-use cover on one side for the pumps, and made a short run of watertight conduit to a pair of boxes for my element plugs. All fits ok.

 

[kzimmer0817]

I got a 12x12x6 gray PVC enclosure from my local Menard's for $33 or so. I had to get my own piece of sheet metal to use for the backplate, but that was only a few bucks more.

Where are y'all finding these boxes - whether PVC or Plastic? I just searched for Menards, and they aren't any farther south than Kentucky; I'm in Georgia. I've heard of folks getting them from Home Depot, but I can't find anything at mine.

Thanks,
Keith

 

[grandequeso]

If you're in Ga try. City Electric, Rexell, World Electric, or CED . All pretty common electrical supply houses in the southern states.

 

[cnorberg]

FWIW, this eBay seller has a few used enclosures (some are stainless!) for pretty reasonable prices. I just ordered a stainless enclosure similar to the one below w/o any extra holes and the backing plate for around $100

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-S...130?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2a8d991a

 

[bdjohns1]

You never know what you'll find at scrap dealers too. I know the guys in our electrical shop at work just scrapped a bunch of old enclosures from idle equipment. There were a few stainless enclosures in the load.

I found a stack light so my brew system can have some blinkenlights.

 

[Cacaman]

eBay seller 'mixtea' has some pretty good priced Chinese parts. For example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-PID...179?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab55f7633. Thats a KILLER DEAL as it includes the thermocouple with the 'deluxe cable'!

As tempting as it is.... I'm gonna stick with American made Auber Instruments

 

[lschiavo]

Good to see some activity here still. I thought this was dead. I hope the eBay links still work next time I'm in the market. Some good deals there.

 

[kzimmer0817]

I got a 12x12x6 gray PVC enclosure from my local Menard's for $33 or so. I had to get my own piece of sheet metal to use for the backplate, but that was only a few bucks more.

I was able to find the Carlon 989 PVC 12x12x6 box at Home Depot for $33+ and picked one up. To be honest, I'm getting "stage fright" about building the controller, though. I've been adding up the cost of what I will need and simply wondering if I should simply purchase the HBC-II along with one of those overpriced weldless elements from High Gravity and get brewing.

Thanks,
Keith

 

[milesvdustin]

I found the buzzer that is common for everyone from Auber, its one from China on Ebay. I paid 2.49 for it.

Seller name was coolcheapworld.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110778416577?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


I also got a 40 amp ssr and heat sink (made in Taiwan, sold from china) for $8 shipped. Quite a deal if you ask me! That was also from ebay, don't recall the seller.