Changing Draft Beer Lines?

[beren]

I just ran a Q-Tip into the opening on one beer line. It came out dark brown, again looking like nicotine stains.

Replacing the lines on a triple tap tower is a bloody nightmare. My hands are all cut up just from changing out a few fittings.

That is why I bought new towers, thinking that new, clean lines would fix the problem.

Some of my older USA made towers have the same issue...the vinyl odor from the beer line influences the beer flavor.

One nice thing with Duotight shanks is that they fit through the hole so as long as you get the knot off the shank you can pull the shank and line out to replace

 

[odie]

I'll do a hot water rinse every couple kegs. I fill a mini keg with a couple quarts of hot water and flush the line and faucet.

sometimes break down the faucet and QD.

 

[beren]

My keezer has 8 taps, so it looks like a substantial investment for all the little parts if I do it all at once. Where's the best place to get stuff?

I got 100’ of evabarrier pretty cheap from Williams and it’ll fit on 1/4 inch barbs with some love and hot water. But push for connectors are niiice.

 

[Broken Crow]

Help us help you....Post some pictures and tell us where you're having difficulties in changing things out...whatever lines you choose to use. If it helps, I recently switched out all my beer lines and tried to detail it with pictures. Though I chose 3mm EVABarrier, the instructions are equally applicable to Bevlex and clamps. 1/4" Swivel-nut > 3mm EVABarrier > 6.35mm Monotight connector > Duotight Shank

 

[mac_1103]

Pretty much any tower/tap 'assembly' you buy is going to include the lowest grade materials available.

Not necessarily, but not $68 either. Also available in matte black.

 

[IslandLizard]

Are there any beer lines that are 100% odor free? That is the culprit.

I've heard/read that EVA Barrier is completely odor free.

I haven't made the switch to EVA Barrier yet, still using Bev-Seal Ultra 235 line, which is also completely odor/flavor free. It has an ultra smooth PET liner inside. It's easy to clean, although there's a light, permanent discoloration after many years of use.

 

[Broken Crow]

Not necessarily, but not $68 either. Also available in matte black.

Yeah, true... I've gotta start counting how many times I say this on here: "Buy Once, Cry Once."
(though I have a bad feeling that once @Oleson M.D. switches his lines out to an odor/taste free one such as either EVABarrier or Bevlex, within a few months we'll get a question about the bad taste of plated-chrome, or the smell of sulfides, or the vinegar from beer sitting in the rear-sealing taps, as premade Taprite assemblies usually come with plated chrome taps and shanks rather than Stainless Steel.)

 

[mac_1103]

premade Taprite assemblies usually come with plated chrome taps and shanks rather than Stainless Steel

I thought the insides were stainless even on the chrome plated ones?

 

[Broken Crow]

I thought the insides were stainless even on the chrome plated ones?

Nope... Cheapness is the whole point.

 

[sibelman]

I realize that you just bought two new 3-tap towers, @Oleson M.D. However, you've indicated these are problematical because they're hard to work on. You probably can't return them now, but in the future you might want to consider T-towers that offer superior access for maintenance. Examples can be found here.

I believe that eliminating plastic flavors is a top priority. Even when you can't taste it, that stuff is still in there at lower levels. Maybe harmless, maybe not. Go EVAbarrier!

 

[Langerz]

It's been a while since I bought my EvaBarrier lines but isn't it like $0.50 a foot? With the small diameter you need shorter runs. I think mine are around 5 feet so~$2.50 a line. I've considered just giving up on the pain of cleaning lines and just replacing them all yearly instead at that price. I would still need to do something to clean the QDs and shanks though and easier to just clean it all together.

 

[beren]

It's been a while since I bought my EvaBarrier lines but isn't it like $0.50 a foot? With the small diameter you need shorter runs. I think mine are around 5 feet so~$2.50 a line. I've considered just giving up on the pain of cleaning lines and just replacing them all yearly instead at that price. I would still need to do something to clean the QDs and shanks though and easier to just clean it all together.

I bought it when they had a sale I think it was $40 for 100ft. I have had them 2 years or so and no stains or off flavors so far and just do a quick starsan rinse every 6-12 months

 

[Oleson M.D.]

Yeah, true... I've gotta start counting how many times I say this on here: "Buy Once, Cry Once."
(though I have a bad feeling that once @Oleson M.D. switches his lines out to an odor/taste free one such as either EVABarrier or Bevlex, within a few months we'll get a question about the bad taste of plated-chrome, or the smell of sulfides, or the vinegar from beer sitting in the rear-sealing taps, as premade Taprite assemblies usually come with plated chrome taps and shanks rather than Stainless Steel.)

All of our faucets are Perlick SS.
My rear seal faucets are also all SS, but they are all stored in a box since we switched to Perlick many years ago.

 

[Oleson M.D.]

Do you use beerstone remover or line cleaner to clean your lines? My evabarrier lines are about a year old, and I usually just soak them in PBW, rinse, then Star San. I held them up to a light last night and immediately replaced them. I was shocked at how much beerstone was in them. Yuck...

I use BLC on the lines about every other keg. Normal procedure is to recirculate the BLC solution (hot water) for 30 to 45 minutes. Then do a rinse with 100% hot water for another 20 minutes.

Sometimes I will just do a hot water rinse for 30 minutes on the lines.

I use a pump for circulating the cleaning solution.

 

[Clint Yeastwood]

There has to be a way to adapt your towers to EVAbarrier and Duotight. Kegland sells short Duotight shanks.

They supposedly reduce O2 transfer, so that's a bonus.

 

[Broken Crow]

All of our faucets are Perlick SS.
My rear seal faucets are also all SS, but they are all stored in a box since we switched to Perlick many years ago.

Though I have both Perlick and Nukatap, I find the Nuka's though perfectly functional, completely ugly...Perlicks just look so much nicer!
What part of changing lines is giving you issues?
A lot of folk get stuck at the shank wrench and try and use what they have on hand... that can get aggrivating... Most of the time I hate saying "spend more on this.." , but if you don't have a proper shank-wrench, it'd be money well-spent. Here's a couple:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/kegtool.htmhttps://www.morebeer.com/products/komos-pro-draft-wrench-1.htmlYour tower looks like the standard ones, here's a couple pics that might help:

and use string or wire to hold up the inner nut, spacer and optional washer;

feed the lines out the front when you pull the shank out;

You can replace the line outside the tower and shove it back in.
If you use Bevlex 200, you probably just need the hose clamps to replace what's already there.
If you go duotight/EVABarrier (Highly recommended), you'll want new shanks;
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/shanksstowerpush.htmI hope I covered your issue..Please get back and let us know.

 

[Oleson M.D.]

Though I have both Perlick and Nukatap, I find the Nuka's though perfectly functional, completely ugly...Perlicks just look so much nicer!
What part of changing lines is giving you issues?
A lot of folk get stuck at the shank wrench and try and use what they have on hand... that can get aggrivating... Most of the time I hate saying "spend more on this.." , but if you don't have a proper shank-wrench, it'd be money well-spent. Here's a couple:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/kegtool.htmhttps://www.morebeer.com/products/komos-pro-draft-wrench-1.htmlYour tower looks like the standard ones, here's a couple pics that might help:
View attachment 840033
and use string or wire to hold up the inner nut, spacer and optional washer;
View attachment 840034
feed the lines out the front when you pull the shank out;
View attachment 840035
You can replace the line outside the tower and shove it back in.
If you use Bevlex 200, you probably just need the hose clamps to replace what's already there.
If you go duotight/EVABarrier (Highly recommended), you'll want new shanks;
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/shanksstowerpush.htmI hope I covered your issue..Please get back and let us know.

Thanks for the pictures! That looks like a good solution!

Here are my new towers, which very well may be returned…the jury is still out.

 

[Broken Crow]

Gorgeous enviable bar!
Personal opinion: It deserves EVABarrier for maximum O2 and chemical exclusion...but Bevlex 200 or the Bev-Seal Ultra 235 mentioned by @IslandLizard is good second call.
Give it some thought, to which I'll add: Duotight fittings are a joy to work with..I have personal reasons for being in the maybe 5% that had an issue with one part of it... about 95% duotight users have no issues at all, especially if they remembered to use the optional retaining clips; Food Grade Plastic, 5/16 (sorry for the Canadian link.. it's what I had on hand, but you can find them everywhere.)

 

[day_trippr]

Bevlex 200 is solid pvc. No longer recommended, afaic...

Cheers!

 

[beren]

There has to be a way to adapt your towers to EVAbarrier and Duotight. Kegland sells short Duotight shanks.

You absolutely can. You can buy shanks for the tower that are smooth so you can use a Duotight connector, or you can use hot but not boiling water to heat up a normal Barb and get the evabarrier line over it.

If you want to be extra fancy, and also have The smallest possible profile, you can get a tool to make hose clamps out of stainless steel safety wire. It’s almost no bigger than the hose itself.

https://clamptitetools.com/

 

[Yesfan]

Thanks for the pictures! That looks like a good solution!

Here are my new towers, which very well may be returned…the jury is still out.
View attachment 840037View attachment 840036

I think we need to see more pics of that bar..........

 

[beren]

Thanks for the pictures! That looks like a good solution!

Here are my new towers, which very well may be returned…the jury is still out.

Very pretty. No cognac or calvados though! Triple towers are great, just need good lines

 

[Deadalus]

I think we need to see more pics of that bar..........

Yeah what's on the top shelf! I can see the Jamesons and Glenfiddich...

 

[MR BEER]

On the subject of tap lines, I have a different question. I made a Kegerator out of a side by side refrigerator/ freezer. I can get 1 quarter and 1 sixtel in the former freezer side and 1 half or 2 quarters in the refrigerator side. Needless to say there is not much room in the freezer side for all the gas and beer lines. They have to be long enough to tap the kegs outside the fridge. Putting all the lines back in and NOT KINKING the lines is a major problem. Is there a good line to use that is flexible when cold, and won't kink? Also, where can I purchase it? I need this for both beer and co2.

 

[Climb]

@MR BEER - I use EVA Barrier tubing, for both beer and gas, in the freezer section of my side-by-side kegerator(freezer side)/fermentation chamber (refrigerator side). Add a shelf in the freezer side and you can fit more kegs. I keep the CO2 tank outside and run the gas tubing into the freezer side, through the hole that was originally used for water to the ice maker, to a dual secondary regulator. I would recommend getting EVA Barrier tubing from www.brewhardware.com. Bobby M will do you right.

 

[Oleson M.D.]

Yeah what's on the top shelf! I can see the Jamesons and Glenfiddich...

After a few days, it seems that the new beer lines are “breaking in”, with no noticeable off flavors.

 

[Broken Crow]

View attachment 840097
After a few days, it seems that the new beer lines are “breaking in”, with no noticeable off flavors.

Nice selection!
This may or may not matter, everyone has their own; Just because you can no longer taste doesn't mean it's still free of the pthalates and such, and since it's replacing an 'aged' version with essentially the same thing, you can bet the issue will come back in future. Just a suggestion; Take the breathing-room you have and spend some time reading up on here about beer line replacements, and slowly plan for the next replacement, asking questions when you can't otherwise find answers or they lack clarity. I stand by my statement that your beautiful bar deserves EVABarrier!
Keep us posted.

 

[Oleson M.D.]

Yes, I have a couple other towers that I will experiment with, and install the EVA Barrier lines!
Thanks to everyone for all of the help!

Note that I have Russian Vodka that is no longer available in this country.

 

[Broken Crow]

Yes, I have a couple other towers that I will experiment with, and install the EVA Barrier lines!
Thanks to everyone for all of the help!

Note that I have Russian Vodka that is no longer available in this country.

I did notice. ....Edina and my GF would be envious.. I always gravitated to Moskovskaya...also no longer available here.

 

[MR BEER]

On the subject of tap lines, I have a different question. I made a Kegerator out of a side by side refrigerator/ freezer. I can get 1 quarter and 1 sixtel in the former freezer side and 1 half or 2 quarters in the refrigerator side. Needless to say there is not much room in the freezer side for all the gas and beer lines. They have to be long enough to tap the kegs outside the fridge. Putting all the lines back in and NOT KINKING the lines is a major problem. Is there a good line to use that is flexible when cold, and won't kink? Also, where can I purchase it? I need this for both beer and co2.

Is it flexible when cold without kinks?

 

[MR BEER]

@MR BEER - I use EVA Barrier tubing, for both beer and gas, in the freezer section of my side-by-side kegerator(freezer side)/fermentation chamber (refrigerator side). Add a shelf in the freezer side and you can fit more kegs. I keep the CO2 tank outside and run the gas tubing into the freezer side, through the hole that was originally used for water to the ice maker, to a dual secondary regulator. I would recommend getting EVA Barrier tubing from www.brewhardware.com. Bobby M will do you right.

It the EVA flexible when cold without kinking?

 

[beren]

It the EVA flexible when cold without kinking?

It gets stiff but hasn't kinked on me

 

[day_trippr]

I use EVABarrier extensively for beer, gas and water in my keezer which is set for 35°F +/- 1°. The lines don't get that stiff - definitely not such that you'd think there could be a problem. I have them coiled inside or above the handles of my kegs and when I swap a keg I literally give zero thought to the lines...

Cheers!