• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Can you Brew It recipe for Firestone Walker Union Jack

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hmmmm, I will have to wait and see how the bitterness turns out. Water can have a big impact on bitterness, so another place to try changing things up. I have hard water, so I usually I use about a half & half mix of tap water & plain RO water (not spring water). However, this time I used the method described in the water chemistry primer which is all RO water and adding calcium chloride & gypsum, as well as using acidulated malt in the mash. I am going to start cold crashing it tonight, then move it to the keg on Sunday along with the next dryhop addition. After that I am planning on letting it sit at basement temp (mid 60s) for 4 more days then drop the temp and carbonate.
 
Ok, this one has been in the keg for a week, and it is really tasty! I've never actually had the union jack because I can't get it here. My bro lives in CO, so he's brought me some double union jack during visits. This beer is definitely what I imagined it would taste like.

The bitterness and hop flavor are just perfect. It's just a saturated hop flavor that sits on the tongue. The aroma is good after the initial pour, but seems to disappear quickly. I'm not sure how to improve that in future. Maybe because it's only been in the keg a week and is still carbing up?

The alcohol is also just a touch hot since it ended up at 8.5. However, it's not noticable enough to detract from the beer. The beer is also a little hazy right now. It would probably clear up in time, but I just don't think it will last long enough to find out. Maybe next time I will use gelatin. This is easily my favorite beer that I've brewed and I am really digging being able to have it on tap.
 
Hi guys, I brewed this about a year and a half ago, and can't recall how long I let it condition before drinking. I have a fishout the second week of July for which I am brewing four beers;
FWUJ IPA (1.075),
American Stout(1.065),
American Wheat(1.042)
and American Lager(1.041). I already brewed the lager last weekend.

I am trying to decide when I need to brew the IPA, its 8 weeks until the trip right now. Planning to brew 3 consecutive weekends starting next weekend and right now leaning towards starting with the stout(it gets better with some conditioning), then doing the UJ and the wheat last.

So, to make a long question short; how long are you guys taking from brew day to consumption with this beer? I know most IPAs are best fresh, but there is a fine line with bigger beers between fresh and not quite at its peak.

Thanks,

Tim
 
TimBrewz said:
Hi guys, I brewed this about a year and a half ago, and can't recall how long I let it condition before drinking. I have a fishout the second week of July for which I am brewing four beers;
FWUJ IPA (1.075),
American Stout(1.065),
American Wheat(1.042)
and American Lager(1.041). I already brewed the lager last weekend.

I am trying to decide when I need to brew the IPA, its 8 weeks until the trip right now. Planning to brew 3 consecutive weekends starting next weekend and right now leaning towards starting with the stout(it gets better with some conditioning), then doing the UJ and the wheat last.

So, to make a long question short; how long are you guys taking from brew day to consumption with this beer? I know most IPAs are best fresh, but there is a fine line with bigger beers between fresh and not quite at its peak.

Thanks,

Tim

I would brew by June 1st at the latest. A good IPA can use a 30 day period to settle out; just my 2 cents.
 
I think your plan is a good one. Give the ipa 6 weeks and you will be drinking it in its prime!
 
I brewed a very similar batch last night, pitched WLP002 on a 1L starter which followed the same grain profile as the batch and it's off to a good starter. OG came in at 1.066 so I was very pleased. Started out with 9.2 gallons of H2O and put 5.6 gallons into primary. Though I do have a slightly different hop profile...

11.25 lbs 2 row
1.5 lbs Crystal 10
0.5 lbs Carapils
.25 lbs Munich
.25 lbs WhiteWheat
.75 oz Millenium 60 min
1 oz Cascade 30 min
.5 oz Citra 30 min
.5 oz Citra 15 min
.5 oz Citra 10 min
.5 oz Citra 5 min
WLP002 yeast - with a 1L starter

Going to dry hop soon with citra/cascade. or so my plan goes....
 
Just brewed this last week (finally).
Pitched yeast starter and aerated with Oxygen on Tuesday night, and was down to almost 1.020 by Friday evening (i.e. 3 days)!!
Dry hopped with the first batch of hops and let sit 3 more days at ~68F.
Transferred to secondary carboy and dry hopped with second batch of hops last night.
I plan on cold crashing in the secondary for a couple weeks, but how long should I leave it sit at ~68~69 with the last round of dry hops in it ? (they are in a hop bag so I can remove them at anytime)
5 days ?
longer ??
 
BigJay13 said:
I think your plan is a good one. Give the ipa 6 weeks and you will be drinking it in its prime!

In that 6 weeks, how much time is spent in the bottle? I have 3 diff ipa's fermenting now - my first 3 ever and am getting ready to bottle soon. What's the standard wait - 7 days? 14 days?
 
crawkraut said:
In that 6 weeks, how much time is spent in the bottle? I have 3 diff ipa's fermenting now - my first 3 ever and am getting ready to bottle soon. What's the standard wait - 7 days? 14 days?

Once you finish primary, throw your dry hops in (typically 5-10 days depending on your recipe-I usually go 7-10), after that is complete you should bottle. Three weeks in bottle to carbonate will give you roughly 5 weeks from brew day to drinking. Let it sit cold for another week and it will be great. When you dry hop you can transfer to another carboy but it isn't necessary if you aren't saving the yeast. Hope that helps.
 
I love this beer! Too bad it's almost gone.

ForumRunner_20130603_214003.png
 
Just brewed this yesterday. Came in a little high at 1.076, but it smells amazing. Cant wait to try the final product. Pitched a starter (1500ml) of WLP002. Hope it turns out good! I love this beer!
 
Has anyone tried brewing this as a lager? I have Wyeast 2124 and have always wanted to make an India pale lager. Any advice is appreciated!
 
I think that if you do use 007, you should increase the mash temp a few degrees. That has just been the experience that I have had...007 at low mash temps will attenuate like crazy!

Eric

This is what I've come up with. Any thoughts?

2-Row Malt 14.00 lb
Munich 10L Malt 2.25 lb
Caramel 10L 1.75 lb
Carapils 1.25 lb

Mash @ 148-149F for 60min
Boil for 90min (be sure to account for an extra half hour of evap.)

0.75oz Warrior @ 60min
0.75oz Simcoe @ 60min
1.00oz Cascade @ 30min
1.00oz Centennial @ 30min
1.50oz Cascade @ Flame out
1.50oz Centennial @ Flame out

White Labs WLP001

Dry hop in primary 24 hours after krausen drop, Rack to secondary after 3 days of dry hopping.

Dry hops:
1.00oz Cascade
1.00oz Amarillo
0.50oz Chinook
0.50oz Centennial
0.50oz Simcoe

Per my software, expect:
Preboil 1.077
OG 1.089
FG 1.020
ABV 9.4%
IBU 84

Going to brew two batches of this soon (two different parties) - a good way to get rid of the piles of hops I have around and then restock.

After reading this thread, I too was curious about WLP002 vs. WLP007.

Just crunching the numbers, if the beer is 7.5% ABV with an OG of 1.070, that means we need to get to an FG of 1.013. That means 81.43% attenuation. I just don't see how that is possible with WLP002. From White Labs:

WLP002:
Attenuation: 63-70%
Flocculation: Very High
Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 65-68°F
(18-20°C)
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium

WLP007:
Attenuation: 70-80%
Flocculation: Medium to High
Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 65-70°F
(18-21°C)
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium-High



So I'm choosing WLP007 and following the exact mash schedule in the first post. I'll make a nice starter for the first batch, then pitch the proper amount of slurry for the second batch. I'll be sure and post my results.

And BTW, I've used S-04 in the past and thought it left a strange Ester profile (even when fermenting cool). Interested to see my results with WLP007 which is supposed to be the same strain.

So I've got my grain ground for this, check my 007 starter today and it smells like apple vinegar and the gravity hasn't dropped at all. 1st infection I've ever had....

So I'm at a cross roads...I'd like to brew this but all I've got to work with for yeast is S-04 and WLP001....

Curious as to what some folks would vote for a replacement...I don't feel comfortable sitting on ground grain for 2 weeks which will be the next time I could buy more yeast and brew....
 
atimmerman88 said:
So I've got my grain ground for this, check my 007 starter today and it smells like apple vinegar and the gravity hasn't dropped at all. 1st infection I've ever had.... So I'm at a cross roads...I'd like to brew this but all I've got to work with for yeast is S-04 and WLP001.... Curious as to what some folks would vote for a replacement...I don't feel comfortable sitting on ground grain for 2 weeks which will be the next time I could buy more yeast and brew....

I have brewed this with 001 and it makes a great beer. If you really want the English profile go with s04 but I think the esters from that yeast really get in the way of the hops. Definitely ferment cool at like 64 with s04. I would also assume your attenuation won't be like 007 with s04.
 
Well I am thrilled that I've wasted 400grams of DME and 2 vials on this one...

Turns out my stir bar must be infected, 2nd started went south. I made a 500mL started for 3711 from the same wort that was just fine....DAM

Well I've got 6gal of wort in the fridge, hope it's ok until I get more yeast this week..

I'm making a gallon of this ferm on 3711 for fun.
 
Well I am thrilled that I've wasted 400grams of DME and 2 vials on this one...

Turns out my stir bar must be infected, 2nd started went south. I made a 500mL started for 3711 from the same wort that was just fine....DAM

Well I've got 6gal of wort in the fridge, hope it's ok until I get more yeast this week..

I'm making a gallon of this ferm on 3711 for fun.

What are you using to sanitize? Are you sure your not smelling the apple/pear English esters from a higher temperature starter combined with nostril burning CO2?
 
Beezer94 said:
What are you using to sanitize? Are you sure your not smelling the apple/pear English esters from a higher temperature starter combined with nostril burning CO2?

Nearly 100% positive.
Starsan for everything...

WLP 001 and 007 had the same smell. 0 fermentation 2 days at 70f

The small starter for 3711 finished in 24 hrs and smells normal for a starter. I'm pretty sure it's the stir bar

Bought s05 to use tonight
 
Nearly 100% positive.
Starsan for everything...

WLP 001 and 007 had the same smell. 0 fermentation 2 days at 70f

The small starter for 3711 finished in 24 hrs and smells normal for a starter. I'm pretty sure it's the stir bar

Bought s05 to use tonight

Are you checking gravity with a refractometer? After any fermentation occurs the results are wrong. There are calculators that let your approximate values after the fact.

If you are using a hydrometer to check gravity of starter and it's still not dropping, what temperature are you pitching yeast into the starter?

2 days in starter without anything period means something is going wrong. Even if you had an 'infection' the gravity would likely be changing.

Just trying to help track down a problem.
 
Are you checking gravity with a refractometer? After any fermentation occurs the results are wrong. There are calculators that let your approximate values after the fact.

If you are using a hydrometer to check gravity of starter and it's still not dropping, what temperature are you pitching yeast into the starter?

2 days in starter without anything period means something is going wrong. Even if you had an 'infection' the gravity would likely be changing.

Just trying to help track down a problem.


Yes I am using a hydrometer. The yeast was pitched at 70. the yeast was at 70 and the starter was at 70

I had the exact same issue with 2 starters, the common denominator was the stir bar.

I've made 30 or 40 other starters with no issues. Stir bar went into trash, everything got deep cleaned. Pitched US05. Problem solved.

Sorry if this sounds like a rant, it is no ment to be.
 
Reviving this old thread because Union Jack is so delicious!

I'm brewing this tomorrow with WLP 200 and CTZ instead of Warrior. Plan to ferment at 65*. Curious how WLP 200 will do with this english inspired west coast IPA.

Cheers!
 
Reviving this old thread because Union Jack is so delicious!

I'm brewing this tomorrow with WLP 200 and CTZ instead of Warrior. Plan to ferment at 65*. Curious how WLP 200 will do with this english inspired west coast IPA.

Cheers!

WLP200 is a blend of WLP001 and WLP002 right? That seems like it would work great in any IPA.
 
Yep! WLP200 is a blend of 001/002. Attenuation of 001 but flocculation of 002. Ester profile is in between both.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
I just did the first dry hop dose on this. Was at 1.015 and just a bubble every so often. I used wlp 007 and am using a conical so I'm dumping trub, yeast and hops with additions. Sample was very tasty.
 
I was browsing around for an IPA recipe for brew number 6 on my BIAB/induction system. I ran across the multiple CYBI episodes from Firestone Walker and this sounded too good to pass up, so I've got my ingredients precisely from the podcast, with the exception of 1968 instead of 002 (thanks LHBS :) . I'll probably brew it next week, and i plan on dry hopping per matt's instructions.

Wish me luck!
 
Wlp007 turned out pretty good but I do think this would do better with 002. I think there needs to be a little more sweetness. If I do this one again I might change the dry hop schedule to 7 days each. Still a fine beer.
 
I brewed this one today, finally. Missed the 1.070 OG target, came in at 1.064, but i'm kind of ok with that. With BIAB, i'm trying to get a little lower efficiencies to avoid thin finished beers (my oatmeal stout). Without adjusting the grain bill any, and trying a new batch sparge, i hit 70% mash efficiency, so im ok with that.

Pitching a Wyeast 1968 starter as soon as the wort comes down to 17C, and I'll dry hop as instructed.
 
Mine was brewed 18 days ago...FG=1.010. Cold crashing now, keg this weekend. Tasts great.


Looking at the whirlpool hopping schedule has brought up question for me.

1. At what temp is everyone adding the centennial and cascade? I was thinking 170 but would like to see what everyone else is doing.
 
Back
Top