Input/Advice on Session West Coast IPA Recipe

[worlddivides]

This is intended to go into a 3 gallon keg, so it's intended to be 3.4 gallons (13 liters) going into the fermenter, but with an idea that roughly 0.4-0.5 gallons (1.5-1.8 liters or so) lost in trub, being absorbed by dry-hopping, etc. Currently leaning towards doing it BIAB (since I have experience with BIAB and am kind of on the fence on whether I want to get a Brewzilla or not and definitely am not going to get a separate three-vessel system at this point). Was originally going to buy distilled water and add brewing salts to make a rather simple West Coast IPA profile, but I'm planning to use tap water and just go from there. Am planning on buying my first corny keg and CO2 tank (have exclusively bottled up until now). I also am just planning on doing this with a normal PET fermenter and with 1 liter plastic bottles filled with frozen water to keep the temperature within the ideal range, though I am considering buying a plastic pressure fermentation vessel. Any advice would be appreciated


Session Juicy Citrus Tropical IPA Recipe (Edited according to advice):

Grain bill:
2.1kg Two-Row Malt (2L) (85.7% of grain bill)
150g Crystal 60L (6.1% of grain bill)
100g Carapils (4.1% of grain bill)
100g flaked wheat (4.1% of grain bill)

Mashed at: 65.5C for about 1 hour (8.2 liters of strike water)
Sparged at: 76C for about 30 minutes (12.3 liters of sparge water)
Total Water Volume If BIAB: 19.4 liters (no sparge, just drain/squeeze bag after mash)

Water Chemistry Adjustments (added before mash):
Half a Campden tablet
0.5 grams calcium chloride (dihydrate)
0.5 grams magnesium chloride
2 grams gypsum

Hops:
20 grams of Centennial (pellet) for 60 minutes (8.4% AA)
10 grams of Idaho 7 (pellet) for 15 minutes (13.1% AA)
10 grams of Idaho 7 (pellet) whirlpooled (starting at 82C for 15 minutes – 13.1% AA)
5 grams of Cryo-Citra (pellet) whirlpooled (starting at 82C for 15 minutes - 22.1% AA)
20 grams of Cryo-Citra (pellet) for 4 days (dry hopping – after fermentation ends - 22.1% AA)
25 grams of Cryo-Mosaic (pellet) for 4 days (dry hopping – after fermentation end - 20.3% AA)

Other:
Servomyces - add last 10 minutes of boil
Whirlfloc - add last 5 minutes of boil

Fermented with Safale US-05 at 18-20C for 2 weeks (last few days of that dry hopping)

Kegged, then carbonated to 2.5 CO2 levels.

Estimated results of:
SRM: 6
IBUs: 53
Original Gravity: 1.040
Final Gravity: 1.007
ABV: 4.38%

 

[hottpeper13]

Looks tasty, for a west coast I would remove the Epsom salt and increase the gypsum to 2 grams. I dig the Idaho 7! The added calcium will help clear the beer.

 

[worlddivides]

Looks tasty, for a west coast I would remove the Epsom salt and increase the gypsum to 2 grams. I dig the Idaho 7! The added calcium will help clear the beer.

Thanks. I'm far from an expert when it comes to water chemistry. I've mainly just followed Bruin Water or Brewer's Friend's recommended water profiles and have never done a deep dive into the details behind it. Changing from 1 gram Epsom salt and 1 gram gypsum to 0 grams Epsom salt and 2 grams gypsum doesn't change the numbers a ton, but it does get them closer in the program to the "ideal" for light-colored, hoppy beers. Appreciate it. I'd say that water chemistry is probably the area I need to learn about the most (though I've actually added salts to my beers quite a few times, whereas I've never actually kegged before, but kegging seems a lot simpler).

 

[Shenanigans]

Looks decent enough. However if it really does end up at 1.007 it might be a bit too bitter and watery. I would swap out the 2-row with Vienna or Pale Malt and up the mash temperature to 68oC to get the FG closer to 1.010 to better support the hops. You can add a bit more base malt to make sure it ends up at the desired abv.

 

[worlddivides]

Looks decent enough. However if it really does end up at 1.007 it might be a bit too bitter and watery. I would swap out the 2-row with Vienna or Pale Malt and up the mash temperature to 68oC to get the FG closer to 1.010 to better support the hops. You can add a bit more base malt to make sure it ends up at the desired abv.

You're a few weeks too late. I already bought the ingredients! Appreciate the feedback, and there's still room for improvement since I haven't brewed the beer yet.

I did actually end up going with Canadian pale malt, but pale malt and two row are pretty much interchangeable. I do expect this to be rather bitter, which isn't a problem, but I certainly hope it doesn't turn out watery (the Carapils and flaked wheat are partially there to prevent that). I'll definitely admit I'm going for a pretty dry and bitter West Coast IPA (I even adjusted my brewing salts a bit further for more sulfates after this), but with lots of citrus and tropical hop aroma and flavor.

One thing I've been on the fence about doing is whether to add 50 grams more of the Crystal 60L. The place I bought from sells in units of 100 grams, so I got 200 grams of Crystal 60L, but I made my recipe for 150 grams. I had felt that 200 grams would be a bit much. While NEIPAs use zero crystal malt, I've seen West Coast IPAs typically use 5-10% and have even seen some go as far as 20%, though that seems a bit much personally.

EDIT: Out of interest, I tried seeing if changing the mash temp from 65.5 to 68 in the software would change the final gravity, but surprisingly it did not. Strange, but just because the software says something doesn't mean it'll happen that way. It's just an estimate after all.

 

[Shenanigans]

You're a few weeks too late. I already bought the ingredients! Appreciate the feedback, and there's still room for improvement since I haven't brewed the beer yet.

I did actually end up going with Canadian pale malt, but pale malt and two row are pretty much interchangeable. I do expect this to be rather bitter, which isn't a problem, but I certainly hope it doesn't turn out watery (the Carapils and flaked wheat are partially there to prevent that). I'll definitely admit I'm going for a pretty dry and bitter West Coast IPA (I even adjusted my brewing salts a bit further for more sulfates after this), but with lots of citrus and tropical hop aroma and flavor.

One thing I've been on the fence about doing is whether to add 50 grams more of the Crystal 60L. The place I bought from sells in units of 100 grams, so I got 200 grams of Crystal 60L, but I made my recipe for 150 grams. I had felt that 200 grams would be a bit much. While NEIPAs use zero crystal malt, I've seen West Coast IPAs typically use 5-10% and have even seen some go as far as 20%, though that seems a bit much personally.

EDIT: Out of interest, I tried seeing if changing the mash temp from 65.5 to 68 in the software would change the final gravity, but surprisingly it did not. Strange, but just because the software says something doesn't mean it'll happen that way. It's just an estimate after all.

Oh my bad, I overlooked the date
Anyway let us know how it ends up and if you get the right balance.
That's always the challenge with low abv. beers and 50+ IBUs.

 

[worlddivides]

Oh my bad, I overlooked the date
Anyway let us know how it ends up and if you get the right balance.
That's always the challenge with low abv. beers and 50+ IBUs.

Thanks. I find session IPAs tend to be in the 40 to 50 IBU range (and probably in the 30 to 40 IBU range for hazy IPAs), so this is a bit on the high end for a session IPA, but I don't think it's necessarily "too" high. I mean, a decade ago, I made 8% ABV IPAs that were 100 IBUs and tasted great, so 4.4% at 50-55 IBUs should be fine (assuming it isn't watery, which the Carapils, flaked wheat, and Crystal 60 should hopefully help avoid). It's kind of funny how the BU:GU ratio recommendation for IPAs is generally just "greater than 1.0" and I've heard for West Coast IPAs as "greater than 1.1." This beer is specifically 1.38, which is definitely on the high side for sure, but I think it fits for the style.

I won't know for sure until it's ready, though.

 

[Miraculix]

I'll second what's been said. Looks nice to me but honestly, I wouldn't go beyond 40 ibus with this one. For me personally, the sweet spot would be around 30 to 35 ibus.

 

[worlddivides]

I'll probably reduce the 60 minute Centennial from 20 grams to 10 grams, then move the remaining 10 grams to a 15 minute addition and move the Idaho 7 to either a 10 minute or 5 minute addition for an end result of between 40 and 45 IBUs. I do think the 50-55 IBUs is probably a bit much, so somewhere between 40 and 50 IBUs should probably be more ideal, probably low 40s.

One thing I'll say, though, is that I've been giving the Tinseth IBU values, but the Rager IBU values are all about 10 IBUs lower. For example, if it says 42 IBUs in Tinseth, it says 31 IBUs Rager.

 

[worlddivides]

I'm guessing the initial post is too old for me to edit anymore, but here's the updated recipe:

Session Juicy Citrus Tropical IPA Recipe (Edited according to advice):

Grain bill:
2.1kg Two-Row Malt (2L) (85.7% of grain bill)
150g Crystal 60L (6.1% of grain bill)
100g Carapils (4.1% of grain bill)
100g flaked wheat (4.1% of grain bill)

Mashed at: 65.5C for about 1 hour (8.2 liters of strike water)
Sparged at: 76C for about 30 minutes (12.3 liters of sparge water)
Total Water Volume If BIAB: 19.4 liters (no sparge, just drain/squeeze bag after mash)

Water Chemistry Adjustments (added before mash):
Half a Campden tablet
1.2 grams calcium chloride (dihydrate)
3 grams gypsum
3 grams lactic acid

Hops:
10 grams of Centennial (pellet) for 60 minutes (8.4% AA)
10 grams of Centennial (pellet) for 15 minutes (8.4% AA)
10 grams of Idaho 7 (pellet) for 13 minutes (13.1% AA)
10 grams of Idaho 7 (pellet) hopstand (starting at 80C for 15 minutes – 13.1% AA)
25 grams of Cryo-Citra (pellet) for 4 days (dry hopping – after fermentation ends - 22.1% AA)
25 grams of Cryo-Mosaic (pellet) for 4 days (dry hopping – after fermentation end - 20.3% AA)

Other:
Servomyces - add last 10 minutes of boil
Whirlfloc - add last 5 minutes of boil

Fermented with Safale US-05 at 18-20C for 2 weeks (last few days of that dry hopping)

Kegged, then carbonated to 2.5 CO2 levels.

Estimated results of:
SRM: 6
IBUs: 43
Original Gravity: 1.040
Final Gravity: 1.007
ABV: 4.38%

 

[Miraculix]

I'm guessing the initial post is too old for me to edit anymore, but here's the updated recipe:

Session Juicy Citrus Tropical IPA Recipe (Edited according to advice):

Grain bill:
2.1kg Two-Row Malt (2L) (85.7% of grain bill)
150g Crystal 60L (6.1% of grain bill)
100g Carapils (4.1% of grain bill)
100g flaked wheat (4.1% of grain bill)

Mashed at: 65.5C for about 1 hour (8.2 liters of strike water)
Sparged at: 76C for about 30 minutes (12.3 liters of sparge water)
Total Water Volume If BIAB: 19.4 liters (no sparge, just drain/squeeze bag after mash)

Water Chemistry Adjustments (added before mash):
Half a Campden tablet
1 gram Epsom salts
0.6 grams calcium chloride (dihydrate)
0.5 grams magnesium chloride
2.5 grams gypsum
3 grams lactic acid

Hops:
10 grams of Centennial (pellet) for 60 minutes (8.4% AA)
10 grams of Centennial (pellet) for 15 minutes (8.4% AA)
10 grams of Idaho 7 (pellet) for 13 minutes (13.1% AA)
10 grams of Idaho 7 (pellet) hopstand (starting at 80C for 15 minutes – 13.1% AA)
25 grams of Cryo-Citra (pellet) for 4 days (dry hopping – after fermentation ends - 22.1% AA)
25 grams of Cryo-Mosaic (pellet) for 4 days (dry hopping – after fermentation end - 20.3% AA)

Other:
Servomyces - add last 10 minutes of boil
Whirlfloc - add last 5 minutes of boil

Fermented with Safale US-05 at 18-20C for 2 weeks (last few days of that dry hopping)

Kegged, then carbonated to 2.5 CO2 levels.

Estimated results of:
SRM: 6
IBUs: 43
Original Gravity: 1.040
Final Gravity: 1.007
ABV: 4.38%

Why do you use epsom salt and magnesium chloride? Too much of magnesium easily tastes bad and is not needed for anything during the brewing process.

I only use cacl2 and gypsum to get my ca, cl and so4 levels where I want them to be. You probably should aim for a minimum of 100 ppm of ca and I would try getting cl to about 100 too and so4 to about 200.

The minimum of 100ppm ca is to aid yeast flocculation. The rest is to promote hop bitterness a bit.

 

[worlddivides]

Why do you use epsom salt and magnesium chloride? Too much of magnesium easily tastes bad and is not needed for anything during the brewing process.

I only use cacl2 and gypsum to get my ca, cl and so4 levels where I want them to be. You probably should aim for a minimum of 100 ppm of ca and I would try getting cl to about 100 too and so4 to about 200.

The minimum of 100ppm ca is to aid yeast flocculation. The rest is to promote hop bitterness a bit.

I've only added Epsom salt and magnesium chloride because those are the only brewing salts that contain certain elements I need to reach my targets. Mainly SO4 since I'm unaware of any other way to get SO4, and I'm still far below the level I want the SO4 to be at with these additions.

These additions get me to:
Ca: 89
Mg: 27
Na: 18
Cl: 44
SO4: 94

The only one of those that seems low to me is SO4, but the only way I know to increase it is Epsom salts and gypsum. But I can't get them all from gypsum because gypsum also adds calcium (and that 89 is already a bit above the recommended 75).

According to Brewers Friend's "Overall Water Report," these are all "Normal." But I would like to increase the SO4 if possible. 27 is pretty high compared to the recommended 5 for the style, but my tap water already has 19 magnesium in it, and my additions only increase it from 19 to 27, and there are other styles in there that have magnesium even higher (such as 41 for "Burton on Trent").

 

[Miraculix]

I've only added Epsom salt and magnesium chloride because those are the only brewing salts that contain certain elements I need to reach my targets. Mainly SO4 since I'm unaware of any other way to get SO4, and I'm still far below the level I want the SO4 to be at with these additions.

These additions get me to:
Ca: 89
Mg: 27
Na: 18
Cl: 44
SO4: 94

The only one of those that seems low to me is SO4, but the only way I know to increase it is Epsom salts and gypsum. But I can't get them all from gypsum because gypsum also adds calcium (and that 89 is already a bit above the recommended 75).

According to Brewers Friend's "Overall Water Report," these are all "Normal." But I would like to increase the SO4 if possible. 27 is pretty high compared to the recommended 5 for the style, but my tap water already has 19 magnesium in it, and my additions only increase it from 19 to 27, and there are other styles in there that have magnesium even higher (such as 41 for "Burton on Trent").

Ok, I don't know who wrote the brewers friend recommendations but they are far off from the optimum.

Get all your ions from cacl2 and gypsum. Forget about epsom salts and anything else that contains magnesium. You are already too high in magnesium with your water, any more does only damage.

Try hitting the numbers I quoted above with only gypsum and cacl2. Don't sweat it too much, the main thing is that you get at least 100ppm ca and that you get a bit more so4 than cl.

 

[balrog]

I've only added Epsom salt and magnesium chloride because those are the only brewing salts that contain certain elements I need to reach my targets. Mainly SO4 since I'm unaware of any other way to get SO4

CaSO4, gypsum, is ytpically used rather than Epsom, MgSO4.

 

[worlddivides]

Ok, I don't know who wrote the brewers friend recommendations but they are far off from the optimum.

Get all your ions from cacl2 and gypsum. Forget about epsom salts and anything else that contains magnesium. You are already too high in magnesium with your water, any more does only damage.

Try hitting the numbers I quoted above with only gypsum and cacl2. Don't sweat it too much, the main thing is that you get at least 100ppm ca and that you get a bit more so4 than cl.

So I removed the epsom salts and magnesium chloride and increased the gypsum by 0.5 grams and the calcium chloride by 0.6 grams.

This gets me:
Ca: 104
Mg: 19
Na: 18
Cl: 50
SO4: 89

I wish I could increase the SO4 more, but it seems like I won't be able to do that without throwing the others out of whack.

 

[worlddivides]

CaSO4, gypsum, is ytpically used rather than Epsom, MgSO4.

I use gypsum in every recipe I have, but epsom is something I've only tried in 2 recipes so far, mainly with the purpose of adding SO4 without adding Ca or Cl.

 

[redrocker652002]

I will add just a bit as I am in no way a pro at this in any way. I have never used Crystal 60L in any of my IPA recipes. In what I have learned, or think I have learned, that is going to make it very dark, right? Maybe add a bit more sweetness as well? Like I said, please take this only as a relative newbie sticking his nose probably where it does not belong.

Now, I did a SMASH with Idaho 7 and I must admit it came out really good. It quickly became one of my faves. It was a Pale Ale though, but I liked the flavor and aroma it added. So, to me, your hop schedule looks pretty good. Using Cryo Citra is something I have been thinking of using as well, so I am interested in how this turns out.

Please post final thoughts on the beer when tasting time comes, I am interested on how this is going to taste.

 

[worlddivides]

I will add just a bit as I am in no way a pro at this in any way. I have never used Crystal 60L in any of my IPA recipes. In what I have learned, or think I have learned, that is going to make it very dark, right? Maybe add a bit more sweetness as well? Like I said, please take this only as a relative newbie sticking his nose probably where it does not belong.

Quite the opposite, actually. If I didn't have the Crystal 60L, this would be too light colored for an American IPA. In fact, as it stands, it's already WAY lighter than most American IPAs, and particularly lighter than most West Coast IPAs. Generally American IPAs fall in between 6 SRM and 14 SRM, and my recipe has the color at 6.5 SRM, so on the lightest side of an American IPA. West Coast IPAs are typically around 10% crystal malt, but in my recipe, only 6% of the grain bill is crystal malt. I've also seen some West Coast IPAs as high as 20% crystal malt (and some as low as 5% crystal malt).

New England IPAs, however, typically do not use any crystal malt at all, generally being just two-row barley and oats (sometimes with wheat, but usually just barley and oats). But West Coast IPAs are generally around 10% crystal malt.

 

[redrocker652002]

Quite the opposite, actually. If I didn't have the Crystal 60L, this would be too light colored for an American IPA. In fact, as it stands, it's already WAY lighter than most American IPAs, and particularly lighter than most West Coast IPAs. Generally American IPAs fall in between 6 SRM and 14 SRM, and my recipe has the color at 6.5 SRM, so on the lightest side of an American IPA. West Coast IPAs are typically around 10% crystal malt, but in my recipe, only 6% of the grain bill is crystal malt. I've also seen some West Coast IPAs as high as 20% crystal malt (and some as low as 5% crystal malt).

New England IPAs, however, typically do not use any crystal malt at all, generally being just two-row barley and oats (sometimes with wheat, but usually just barley and oats). But West Coast IPAs are generally around 10% crystal malt.

Well there ya go. I was mistaken I guess. As I said. I have never seen an IPA recipe with 60l. I was going to add other opinions but glad I didn't. Enjoy it and I look forward to the tasting post.

 

[worlddivides]

Well there ya go. I was mistaken I guess. As I said. I have never seen an IPA recipe with 60l. I was going to add other opinions but glad I didn't. Enjoy it and I look forward to the tasting post.

Styles change too for that matter. If I remember correctly (it's been a while), around 2010 or so, there were even quite a few West Coast IPAs that were really heavy on the crystal malt. Like 25% of the grain bill. They were a dark orange color, as far as I can remember. West Coast IPAs are typically the driest of the IPA styles (unless we include Brut IPAs in there), but those crystal heavy ones did have a more pronounced body.

 

[Miraculix]

So I removed the epsom salts and magnesium chloride and increased the gypsum by 0.5 grams and the calcium chloride by 0.6 grams.

This gets me:
Ca: 104
Mg: 19
Na: 18
Cl: 50
SO4: 89

I wish I could increase the SO4 more, but it seems like I won't be able to do that without throwing the others out of whack.

No problem at all. Just increase the gypsum till you got your desired number. Ca must be AT MINIMUM 100ppm. More is totally fine as well.

 

[worlddivides]

Ca must be AT MINIMUM 100ppm. More is totally fine as well.

You said 100ppm for yeast health, but looking at the style values, a lot of them are a lot lower than that. The lowest I can find is "Pilsen (Light Lager)" which has a Ca of 7ppm, which makes sense, considering that the water in Pilsen is supposed to be very low in minerals overall (and has been said to be why the Pilsener is such a clean and crisp beer, as opposed to other beer styles in areas with extremely mineral-rich hard water). And there are a lot of styles with the Ca at 40, 60, and 80. The "light colored and hoppy" I was shooting for is at 75, so 100 isn't much more than that (and there are some styles listed WAY more than that such as "Burton on Trent" at 270 and "Dortmund (historic)" at 250), but I wonder about the reasoning for 100ppm as the minimum for all styles.

 

[Miraculix]

You said 100ppm for yeast health, but looking at the style values, a lot of them are a lot lower than that. The lowest I can find is "Pilsen (Light Lager)" which has a Ca of 7ppm, which makes sense, considering that the water in Pilsen is supposed to be very low in minerals overall (and has been said to be why the Pilsener is such a clean and crisp beer, as opposed to other beer styles in areas with extremely mineral-rich hard water). And there are a lot of styles with the Ca at 40, 60, and 80. The "light colored and hoppy" I was shooting for is at 75, so 100 isn't much more than that (and there are some styles listed WAY more than that such as "Burton on Trent" at 270 and "Dortmund (historic)" at 250), but I wonder about the reasoning for 100ppm as the minimum for all styles.

It's because the flocculation mechanisms of yeast depend on the ca ions, amongst other reasons which I don't know much about.

The other styles are this low in ca not because it's good for the beer, it's because people believe that the water is very low in minerals where the style originally came from. They try to mimic that without thinking. For some regions this is actually true, for some it is not. All of them would benefit from higher ca levels. For some it doesn't matter much. Lager gets lagered traditionally for a long time anyway, so the yeast has plenty of time to drop out, for example. But for an IPA, better flocculation is very beneficial.

 

[worlddivides]

I will add just a bit as I am in no way a pro at this in any way. I have never used Crystal 60L in any of my IPA recipes. In what I have learned, or think I have learned, that is going to make it very dark, right? Maybe add a bit more sweetness as well? Like I said, please take this only as a relative newbie sticking his nose probably where it does not belong.

Now, I did a SMASH with Idaho 7 and I must admit it came out really good. It quickly became one of my faves. It was a Pale Ale though, but I liked the flavor and aroma it added. So, to me, your hop schedule looks pretty good. Using Cryo Citra is something I have been thinking of using as well, so I am interested in how this turns out.

Please post final thoughts on the beer when tasting time comes, I am interested on how this is going to taste.

Here's the final color, by the way:

 

[worlddivides]

Oh my bad, I overlooked the date
Anyway let us know how it ends up and if you get the right balance.
That's always the challenge with low abv. beers and 50+ IBUs.

Here's the final data (I removed all the data I recorded that you guys probably wouldn't care about):

Mashed: 64.9C to 67C, but mostly at 65.5C
Lag time: 12-17 hours
Fermentation Temp: 17C to 19C
Starting Gravity: 1.041
Final Gravity: 1.010 (75% apparent attenuation)
ABV: 4.07%

My only real complaint is that I might want it to be slightly more bitter. If the 45 IBUs Brewer's Friend gives me is accurate, I probably wanted something closer to 50-55 IBUs. I typically find Tinseth to be more accurate than any of the other IBU calculations, but in this case, I kind of wonder if Rager might have been right. Tinseth estimated 45.02 IBUs, while Rager estimates 34.99 IBUs. To my taste, it feels more like 35 IBUs than 45.

 

[redrocker652002]

Here's the final color, by the way:

I see what you mean on the color. It sure does look a bit light for an IPA, but if it tastes good who cares, right? Nice looking beer either way.

 

[worlddivides]

I see what you mean on the color. It sure does look a bit light for an IPA, but if it tastes good who cares, right? Nice looking beer either way.

Thanks. Although it's within the typical range for the style, it is on the lower end. BJCP has the color range for an American IPA as 6 SRM to 14 SRM, whereas this beer is supposedly around 6.5 SRM. If I hadn't added the Crystal 60, it would have been 3 SRM. So, while nowadays it's more common to add less caramel/crystal malts in West Coast IPAs than 10 or 20 years ago (where you'd often see really dark orange IPAs - which you definitely still see nowadays but less often), 6% crystal 60L in this beer basically just bumped it from 3 SRM to 6.5 SRM.

Flavor-wise, I'm actually surprised by how much I can taste the Idaho 7. Even though the end result is 35 grams Centennial (since I actually added 15 grams of Centennial in the dry hop), 20 grams Idaho 7, 25 grams Cryo Citra, and 25 grams Cryo Mosaic, I expected it to be Citra and Mosaic in my face with Centennial in the background and Idaho 7 just slightly there. While the Citra and Mosaic are definitely the most prominent, I'd say the Idaho 7 is actually more prominent than the Centennial.

I'll also say that, as much as I love Centennial, the Centennial bittering is almost TOO pleasant. It's so smooth, I almost want more of a bite from it. It might just be me having been a huge fan of 100 IBU hop bombs back in the day that makes me want to push West Coast IPAs a bit further than other people.

But in the end, it's a very sessionable, smashable, drinkable beer. It's only been 3 weeks since I brewed it. With a lot of other styles, I'd expect the flavor to mellow more, but since it was US-05 at 17 to 19C (62F to 66F), there's the typical Chico neutral character.

Since I was expecting a FG closer to 1.007 and I got 1.010 (which honestly shouldn't have been a surprise since I've gotten 1.010 FGs with US-05 tons of times), there is a bit more malt character than I had expected, but I'd hardly call it "malty" by any means.