Burned rubber-bandy aftertaste due to Extract, 3 weeks on yeast, or contamination?

[LinuxAssailant]

So I mentioned to a coworker that I was liking my 1st brew.

He mentioned that he got some from a brother-in-law or something and it had a burnt-rubber-bandy-aftertaste, and mine did too. Another coworker mentioned that all brewing from extract has a funny taste.

I only had one glass carboy when I brewed it so I let it sit on the yeast for the full 3 weeks before bottling, and I also didn't know I was supposed to keep the hops out of the mix in the carboy.

I also used extract as I was building my tun while it was brewing, and the lady has her IPA in the carboy, almost ready to siphon to secondary (because we NOW have 2).

What is my problem with this aftertaste, as I understand I did a few things wrong, but contamination was probably minimized? Is it the extract-brewing that is my problem, and the lady's brew is going to have the same aftertaste?

 

[kenpotf]

I believe the band-aid taste is an infection. Leaving on yeast for three weeks isn't bad and I've done it in the past. You may want to check your sanitization procedures though and make sure that anything that touches the wort after you boil is completely sterile.

 

[wingedcoyote]

Leaving the beer on yeast for three weeks (or longer!) is totally fine and normal, and so is letting the hops into the primary -- lots of people do these things every brew with no ill effects.

Your most likely culprit is an infection. Chlorine/chloramine in your water could also be a factor -- if you're using tap and you haven't done so already, invest in some Camden tablets to get that stuff out.

 

[LinuxAssailant]

Thanks for the help so far!

I did use tap water, maybe it's partially the chlorine as mentioned. One thing I didn't do is boil the tap water added to the brew, as I had to use 3 pots as brew kettles (now I have a 7 gallon kettle), so I added like 2 gallons of tap water for this brew.

I was REALLY careful with sanitation for my first brew, so I am not sure how I could do better, but with the Auto-siphon I am buying today I am sure that we will do better on the lady's brew (a-bubbling right now).

I just read that I can use these Camden tablets when racking, and since the rack to secondary is probably today, or tomorrow is this an issue to add during the rack to the secondary?

Do people add camden tablets every rack, even to the bottling bucket?

Should these tablets be added during the 1st rack from the kettle to the primary carboy for the next batch, or only from secondary-rack-on, AND in the bottling bucket when adding priming sugar?

 

[davygoat2]

I was under the assumption and Guilty of it as well, the Band-aid taste
being the result of fermentation temps being too high.
Am I incorrect?

 

[Yooper]

I was under the assumption and Guilty of it as well, the Band-aid taste
being the result of fermentation temps being too high.
Am I incorrect?

Generally a "band aid" taste comes form phenols. Chlorophenols come from chlorine in the brewing water. There are a couple of infections that will create this taste as well, but generally too-high fermentation temperatures will cause some off flavors like fruitiness or a "hot" flavor and not phenols.

It's important to remove chlorine from brewing water before using it. That's the only way to prevent chlorophenols. There are some water companies that use a more stable form of chlorine called "chloramine" and that will not boil off. Some people will use purchased bottled water or reverse osmosis water, or even distilled water, to avoid these problems. Since beer is 90% water, it's important to have great water to make good beer.

One campden tablet can be crushed and stirred into 20 gallons of water before using the water (or 1/2 tablet for 10 gallons and so on) for brewing. There are some charcoal filters that could work, but it takes a very slow flow rate though a filter to remove chloramines so most people find the campden tablet works best.

The water must be treated before using it, as after the malt extract and water reacts, the chlorophenols can't be removed.

 

[llvllayhem]

If you are going to use tap water to top up, I would go ahead and boil. There is no way of knowing what bugs may be in there. You can skip booking if you buy Hamlin jugs of RO water. I have not used campden tabs before, but was under the impression you only use them to treat the water before brewing.

 

[llvllayhem]

I hate auto correct *boiling, I don't know what Hamlin is.

 

[Yooper]

I hate auto correct *boiling, I don't know what Hamlin is.

hahaha- thanks for making me laugh. I almost choked on my coffee. :rockin:

 

[LinuxAssailant]

Generally a "band aid" taste comes form phenols. Chlorophenols come from chlorine in the brewing water. There are a couple of infections that will create this taste as well, but generally too-high fermentation temperatures will cause some off flavors like fruitiness or a "hot" flavor and not phenols.

It's important to remove chlorine from brewing water before using it. That's the only way to prevent chlorophenols. There are some water companies that use a more stable form of chlorine called "chloramine" and that will not boil off. Some people will use purchased bottled water or reverse osmosis water, or even distilled water, to avoid these problems. Since beer is 90% water, it's important to have great water to make good beer.

One campden tablet can be crushed and stirred into 20 gallons of water before using the water (or 1/2 tablet for 10 gallons and so on) for brewing. There are some charcoal filters that could work, but it takes a very slow flow rate though a filter to remove chloramines so most people find the campden tablet works best.

The water must be treated before using it, as after the malt extract and water reacts, the chlorophenols can't be removed.

Well-shoot, I already have a secondary-tap for the wort-chiller I built, so I might as well just put in an in-line filter, and fill the kettle that way next brew. Time to burn through that Lowe's card...

 

[llvllayhem]

I just bought a filter last week. The base model can be had for under twenty dollars. I think with fittings and filters, I probably spent around forty bucks.

Yooper, I'm glad i can make you laugh so early in the morning! I'm just having my coffee now, which is probably the reason for my auto correct fail.

 

[duboman]

The in-line filter will only benefit you if it removes chlorine or chloramine from your water supply, otherwise you still need the campden tabs.

 

[cclloyd]

If you choose the filter route make sure you get an activated charcoal filter - they remove nearly all traces of the undesirables. I used bottled spring water since I started brewing and then about two years ago I purchased an inline filter set up and have had zero problems with off flavors.

 

[PAjwPhilly]

smokey.... band-aid....

its phenolic... Wild yeast, Improper sanitation, Water issue (tap water), Improper rinse of sanitizers (bleach)

First, if you were using tap water, treat it with Campden tablets or metabisulfate (either sodium or potassium). You are only using the stuff to remove chlorine/chloramine not hurt any yeast or bacteria (boil will do this for free). So you only use 1/2 to a 1/4 of what is recommended. The higher recommendations are for clean fermentation with fruits (wild yeast contaminated) and such. Anyway, this will save you money until you are ready to buy a filter...

Second, every time you brew, always always watch sanitation. I use StarSan, its just what I started with. If you use a chlorine sanitizer, you need to rinse it off properly or you get more chlorine and thus, Chlorophenols (band-aid/ medicinal flavors).

As far as 3 weeks in primary, It's okay if you are using healthy yeast. I used to primary for 3 weeks when I first started. You might have a higher pH in your finished beer, but nothing more than a few tenths of a point. I even dry hop in my primary for 3 days. It might scrub out some of the aroma, but my IPAs are still extremely hoppy.

Some people secondary and some people dont. I am the latter. I dont secondary anything besides... sours or bigger ABV beers that need to bulk age.

 

[Hello]

If you choose the filter route make sure you get an activated charcoal filter - they remove nearly all traces of the undesirables. I used bottled spring water since I started brewing and then about two years ago I purchased an inline filter set up and have had zero problems with off flavors.

Semi
Do you run the water from your garden hose or run a hose from your tap?


OP: is there only one person who said they tasted band-aid? Not saying it isn't there, but you said you liked it, right?

 

[LinuxAssailant]

It looks like the campden tablets are only like $2.75 for a bottle of 100...

I'll be going that route for sure! Maybe I'll even brew just one more batch of malt-extract, 1st... to see the difference.

So if I want to start with say 6-6.5 gallons to end up with about 5-5.5 gallons after the brew, should I use just 1/4 tablet, or 1/4+pinch?

EDIT: BTW I used Starsan.

 

[Yooper]

It looks like the campden tablets are only like $2.75 for a bottle of 100...

I'll be going that route for sure! Maybe I'll even brew just one more batch of malt-extract, 1st... to see the difference.

So if I want to start with say 6-6.5 gallons to end up with about 5-5.5 gallons after the brew, should I use just 1/4 tablet, or 1/4+pinch?

EDIT: BTW I used Starsan.

There are some directions for the actual "dosage" of campden in the brew science forum somewhere- I remember AJ deLange discussing it. It could be in the "stickies"- I'll take a look to see if I can link to it, but you could scan through that area too and read up on "chlorine", "chloramine", and "campden" threads because there is a ton of good information in there and I'm definitely no water chemistry expert like the folks in that forum.

Edit- here is more than you ever wanted to know about campden, reducing chlorine/chloramines, and how-to. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/campden-tablets-sulfites-brewing-water-361073/

 

[IvanBrew]

It was already mentioned, but it bears repeating:

If you do go the filter route with activated charcoal, be sure to put a valve on the outflow of the filter and dial the flow WAY down. You want to be in the 1/2 gal per minute range.
​

Despite undeniably widespread success by brewers everywhere, I just can't talk myself into campden. I can't get my over-analytical Engineer's brain past the idea of adding something I don't need to my water to get rid of something else I don't need, lol.

Hopefully you don't suffer from my affliction, because campden is probably easier and cheaper, lol.

 

[Qhrumphf]

As far as the original question, phenolic rubbery bandaid flavors are likely from chlorine/chloramine. And the only reason some folks say that extract brewing has a "funny taste" is because many people aren't using fresh extract. DME is alright, but LME isn't all that shelf stable. There is no such thing as an inherent "extract twang".

I go with Campden tablets since filtration either requires a big (and expensive) filter, or a REALLY slow flow rate (for the moderately inexpensive and common filters) to provide adequate contact time to scrub out chloramine. The Campden tablet reaction happens almost instantaneously. What you're adding to your water is almost insignificant, a few ppm of various things.

 

[davygoat2]

I boil my water then use my chiller to bring it back down to mash/steep temps.
Smokey rubber, No. Band-Aid yes but just slightly.
Saw the water analysis of my water district. didn't see chloramine.

 

[Qhrumphf]

I boil my water then use my chiller to bring it back down to mash/steep temps.
Smokey rubber, No. Band-Aid yes but just slightly.
Saw the water analysis of my water district. didn't see chloramine.

They often don't specify. Easiest way to tell is if both "free chlorine" and "total chlorine" are listed (this is how my water report does it). Total chlorine minus free chlorine equals chloramine. And some water sources just list "chlorine" including both chlorine and chloramine. Many water sources (or is it all? Every source I've looked at does this) will use one some parts of the year, and the other at other parts of the year.

If nothing else, get your water company on the phone and they will be able to answer. It's a pretty common question that a lot of folks besides brewers want to know about.

 

[akillys]

I have just let my water sit out in jugs for 48 hours. Does this work to remove chlorine? I have been told that the chlorine will evaporate as it is a gas. Is this even true?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Home Brew mobile app

 

[schiersteinbrewing]

I was having the same band-aid flavor also. I was using tap water, so I tried campden tablets, that helped but the band-aid flavor was still there. Then I bought a 3 stage in line filter and still used campden tablets, again it helped but flavor was still there. Then I sent a sample of straight tap water and a sample of the filtered water to Ward Labs for testing, my water even after filtering was horrible for brewing.

Now I use 100% RO water for my brews, and the problem is solved.
When I brew with extracts I don't add any water treatments. When I do an AG brew I will use Brunwater to calculate the water profile treatments.

 

[Qhrumphf]

I have just let my water sit out in jugs for 48 hours. Does this work to remove chlorine? I have been told that the chlorine will evaporate as it is a gas. Is this even true?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Home Brew mobile app

Chlorine yes. Chloramine its ineffective

 

[cclloyd]

Semi
Do you run the water from your garden hose or run a hose from your tap?

I run through the garden hose but I let it run for a few minutes first to clear the water that was setting in it. I also run at a pretty slow flow rate and I never add any of the filtered water post boil. It's only for mash and sparge.