BMC Clone Recipe (Advice?)

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Love2BrewCrew

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We're constantly in the process of adding our own custom recipe kits to our website for customers; we often get requests for the brews we have in store.

The other day a new brewer came in and requested we design a Budweiser clone for him. Personally I've never thrown together a recipe to mimic one of these beers so I whipped this up and wanted to see what everyone here thought:

Speciality Grains:
6oz. Pale Malt
4oz. Munich Malt
4oz. Rice

Malt Extracts:
3lbs Light LME
1lb Light DME

Hops:
.5oz. Mt. Hood (60)
1oz. Cascade (15)

Other:
1 Teaspoon Irish Moss (15)


I literally just scribbled this on paper a second ago so before making the necessary calculations I wanted to run it by the homebrewtalkers!

Let me know if you think this would be adequate or if you would recommend any changes.
 
I'm NO expert with American lagers! But I would get rid of the cascade as I think the citrusy notes would be off-putting to a Budweiser drinker. I would suggest noble hops, probably hallertauer mittlefruh if you have them.
 
here's a PM recipe from my LHBS (Defalco's) in Houston :

AMERICAN PILSNER

Light in body & color, but more flavorful than Commerswill
O.G. - 1.047 F.G. - 1.011​
4 1/2 lbs. light malt extract
1 1/2 lbs. brewery grade corn syrup or rice syrup solids
1 lb. Domestic Six-Row malt
1/2 oz. Cluster hops (bittering)
1/2 oz. Mt. Hood or Liberty hops (flavoring)
1/2 oz. Mt. Hood or Liberty hops (finishing)
1/2 tsp. calcium chloride (water salts)
1 pkg. Safale US-05 ale yeast* (White Labs German Ale or Wyeast #1007)
1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food)
7/8 cup corn sugar (priming)

PROCEDURE:
Note: If you are using Wyeast liquid yeast, prepare the yeast 24 hours prior to brewing! Activate the yeast
by “smacking” it to rupture the internal pouch, thereby mixing its contents with the other contents in the
pouch. Allow the yeast to remain at room temperature to swell. Check the packaging date on the pouch.
If it has been over two months since it was packaged, allow an extra day for the pouch to swell up. If you
are using White Labs Pitchable Yeast, simply remove from refrigerator and allow to warm up to room
temperature during the brew session.


1. In a small saucepan, bring a gallon of water to 160º - 170º and turn off the heat. Add the bag of
grains and water salts (if used) and steep 30 minutes. Now, gently sparge (rinse) the grains with hot
tap water (ideal temperature 168º) and bring the total volume up to two or more gallons in a stainless
steel or enameled kettle (avoid aluminum). As a rule, boiling as much of the full five gallons as possible
is best. Bring to boil and resume step #2.


2. Turn off heat and add malt extract. Return to boil, taking care not to allow wort to overflow onto your stovetop. Start timing now, continuing the boil for 5 minutes. Add the bittering hops (1/2 oz.Cluster) and boil 45 minutes. Now add the flavoring hops (1/2 oz. Mt. Hood or Liberty) and boil 10 minutes. For aroma, add the finishing hops (1/2 oz.
Mt. Hood or Liberty) and immediately turn off heat.

3. To facilitate cooling, we suggest placing your brewing kettle in the sink with 5 or 6 inches of cold
water (A tray or two of ice cubes in the cooling bath wouldn't hurt). Allow to stand for 20-30 minutes in
the cooling bath. Repeat, if necessary.

4. If using dried yeast, rehydrate it while the wort is cooling. To do this, sprinkle the yeast into a cup of
lukewarm (90º - 100ºF) water and cover with saran wrap or tin foil. Let stand for 10 - 20 minutes. For
best results, we recommend using Wyeast or White Labs liquid yeast.

5. Pour the cooled wort into the fermenter. Bring the total volume up to five gallons. Check and record
the temperature and specific gravity at this time. Make the necessary gravity corrections for temperatures
above 60º (Add .001 for every 7º above 60ºF).

6. If the temperature is less than 80º, pour the yeast "slurry" and the packet of Bru-Vigor into the wort
and place the lid and airlock over the fermenter. Although ideal fermentation temperatures are lower,
it is very important to get the fermentation started as soon as possible to avoid contamination of the
beer. In any case, be aware that temperatures over 110º will most likely kill your beer yeast.

7. FERMENATION TEMPERATURES: If brewing at ale temperatures, ferment at 60º - 75ºF. For cool fermentation, allow to stand at room
temperature overnight, then cool to 50º - 56ºF for primary fermentation.

8. FERMENTATION: Double Stage - The beer will be ready to rack (syphon) when the rocky head
subsides (2-4 days for ale, 6 - 7 days for lager) and the gravity drops to approximately 1.016 or less.
Syphon the beer into the secondary fermenter. As soon as the foaming allows, top up the secondary
with water to within 2-3 inches of the fermentation lock if your volume is short. Allow to ferment and
settle until action has virtually ceased and the beer has clarified.
FERMENTATION: Single Stage - Allow wort to ferment for 7 days. Assuming your fermentation
lock has stopped bubbling proceed to step #9, bottling preparations. Single Stage fermentation is
not recommended for cool fermentation!

9. Check the specific gravity. This final gravity (F.G.) should read about 1.012 (or less). If it is more
than 1.017, do not bottle until you call us!

10. Prepare the priming sugar by making a simple syrup on the stove. Pour the sugar into a small
saucepan containing a cup of boiling water. Stir to dissolve. Pour this mixture into the finished beer as
you are syphoning it into a sanitized priming container. Stir well, but avoid excess splashing. Immediately
syphon the beer into sanitized bottles, leaving about an inch of head space. Use a bottle filler for
ease in filling.

11. Allow beer to age at room temperature for at least two weeks, or if you have cold fermented your
beer, age at 55º for three weeks before chilling further. Peak flavor should be reached about six weeks
and lasts several months.

12. Chill and serve! Pour carefully so as not to disturb the small amount of sediment on the bottom of
the bottles. Enjoy your homemade beer!


 
Just curious, why top up with water in secondary? Aren't we just watering down our beer, or is this intended to lighten it?
 
Just curious, why top up with water in secondary? Aren't we just watering down our beer, or is this intended to lighten it?

If I had to guess, it's because that mimics the process that actually occurs in BMC factories. They brew a higher strength wort and then dilute it with water. This increases capacity, affects boil/hop schedules, and helps with batch-to-batch consistency and QA/QC.

Apart from that, I wouldn't know.
 
this is an older recipe from Defalco's and was based on the extract brewers that couldn't achieve a full boil. adding the water in the secondary helped them get closer to the target FG, achieve a 5 g batch, a reduce head space in the secondary.

if you can do full boils, then no worries.
 
I've revamped the recipe and I think I'm pretty set on it. Will brew it this weekend to test it but on paper it looks like it should be what he's looking for:


Malts & Specialty Grains
- 3.3 lbs. Pilsen LME
- 4 oz. Flaked Maize (Steeping Grains)
- 6 oz. Flaked Rice (Steeping Grains)

Hops
- 1 oz. Hallertau (Bittering)


Yeast
- White Labs American Ale Yeast (WLP029)
 
You can't steep rice or corn. You need rice extract. Sugar will pass.

Or, you can add a pound of 2-row and give the easy instructions for a partial mash, still using the rice and corn. Otherwise, like malticulous says, corn sugar will be fine along with rice extract. Or use all corn sugar instead of the rice and corn.
 
Thanks for the advice guys; like I mentioned I've never tried to convert anything like this to extract. It's a lot of work for a beer I'm not even excited to brew hahah!
 
Thanks for the advice guys; like I mentioned I've never tried to convert anything like this to extract. It's a lot of work for a beer I'm not even excited to brew hahah!

I know what you mean! But, the thing is- once you do it, you sort of get excited to repeat it. I can make a GREAT light lager or cream ale. I don't really love that style, but it really makes me proud that I could if I wanted to! It's also a big hit at parties, and that's the beer that gets the most "You made THIS?" comments.
 
in my extract days when i didnt care so much about controlling numbers or bitterness my house ale was "buzzmizer" and it went over well with everyone...
3# dme
1# dextrose
.5# honey
1oz cascade 60min
s-05
when drank young it went fast but the longer it sat it seemed to dry out..
i only ever kegged then :)
 
For Budweiser sugar seems like the best choice for a extract attempt. It's the only way your going to be able to get the color and fermentabity close.

For hops a single addition of Spalt or Saaz would be best. I know there are late additions in there but they are so small it would be difficult to match in a five gallon batch.

For ale temps I think WLP080 or 810 would really help get some of that lager smell and taste. WLP001 would work best for a real ale strain. WLP840 is the Budweiser strain.

So it's something like 4 lbs extra light DME, 1 lb dextrose and an oz. of Spalt at 60. -Budpleaser

I brew a lot of cream ales, CAPs, premium American lagers and Pilsners. Even when I try to make BMC-like beer I get too much flavor. Brewing a beer without noticeable flaws is the easy part. I think it's very difficult to mimic a high gravity brewed mas-produced lager at the homebrew scale.
 
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