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BIAB - For amateurs?

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Take a look at this video:



You can find more here: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=brewery+mash+press

The idea that squeezing the grain extracts tannins is an old wives tale. Oversparging is a real thing that will extract tannins and silicates if the concentration of the wort (SG) gets too low. Tannin extraction is accelerated at pHs higher than about 6, and water temperatures above about 170°F.

Brew on :mug:

Discovering Alaskan Amber on an Inside Passage cruise vacation is what got me into brewing.
Sigh.
 
This turned into a very interesting discussion!

It took me a while until I realised, that BIAB existed (although it was kinda mentioned in the book I started homebrewing with), and from what I learned it's a clever way to rethink the brewing process and trying something differently.
I also adapted this for my small batch brewing system: my first try building a lauter unit for my ~5ltr setup was stacking two buckets, the outer with an outlet, the inner with milled slots. Reading about BIAB was an epiphany: I just replaced the inner bucket with a cotton diaper and a silicone tube with holes underneath and the whole process got a lot easier. I like it.
And I also like my 3 vat system, I put also lot of effort in putting it together.

IMO the thing about homebrewing is to find a path and a goal that suits you the best. For me it's having a delicious selfmade beer to share with friends and family and getting a distraction from daily routines like work once in a while. For some others it's tweaking around the process just for the sake of it, building a fully automated homebrewery from the scratch out of used car parts, brewing fully anaerob, winning competitions with brews nobody did before, etc...

And sometimes you get an helpful comment if you ask another person, sometimes it's just an opinion...
 
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https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/easy-stovetop-all-grain-brewing-with-pics.90132/

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https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/easy-partial-mash-brewing-with-pics.75231/
 
BIAB is a cheapest and simplest way to do all grain for me since beginning of the century.
 
Take a look at this video:



You can find more here: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=brewery+mash+press

The idea that squeezing the grain extracts tannins is an old wives tale. Oversparging is a real thing that will extract tannins and silicates if the concentration of the wort (SG) gets too low. Tannin extraction is accelerated at pHs higher than about 6, and water temperatures above about 170°F.

Brew on :mug:

They’re always coming up with something.

Bet that’s fun to clean.
 
Besides the issue of lautering efficiency if doing no-sparge BIAB, I have a concern about water chemistry. My theory: The grains help buffer the mash pH. Thinner mash, as with full volume no-sparge, would allow more fluctuation in the water chemistry. So when I started BIAB, I went with a water-to-grist ratio of about 1.5 - 2.0 qt./lb in the mash. I never tried a full volume mash, so I can't say whether my theory is correct. Maybe someone can comment on this.
 
My theory: The grains help buffer the mash pH. Thinner mash, as with full volume no-sparge, would allow more fluctuation in the water chemistry.
I should add that I don't have a pH meter and don't plan to get one. Possibly the buffering from the grains isn't important if you have a pH meter but might help with a simple set-up.
 
I don't have a pH meter and don't plan to get one

Neither do I. My system and total equipment collection is as simple as can be. Reliable water and a reputable software will get you as close as any homebrewer needs.

Maybe I should rephrase.

Without understanding how to control mash pH, any given source water or process choice may ruin a batch of beer.
 
Neither do I. My system and total equipment collection is as simple as can be. Reliable water and a reputable software will get you as close as any homebrewer needs.

Maybe I should rephrase.

Without understanding how to control mash pH, any given source water or process choice may ruin a batch of beer.

I just bought a pH meter last year and use it. I have found that my actual room temp mash pH always falls within a few 100ths of what Bru'NWater predicts. I've never had to adjust mash pH (so far), but the meter serves to confirm my numbers. I do keep a bottle of 10% phosphoric acid on hand, just in case.
 
Besides the issue of lautering efficiency if doing no-sparge BIAB, I have a concern about water chemistry. My theory: The grains help buffer the mash pH. Thinner mash, as with full volume no-sparge, would allow more fluctuation in the water chemistry. So when I started BIAB, I went with a water-to-grist ratio of about 1.5 - 2.0 qt./lb in the mash. I never tried a full volume mash, so I can't say whether my theory is correct. Maybe someone can comment on this.
I have not used a pH meter so I guess this is anecdotal. Brun’ Water allows one to split strike water and sparge water. I just enter all the water as strike water and no sparge water. It seems to work fine for me.
 
Regarding the title of this thread, and in my role as Mr. Word Person:

amateur may mean two strikingly different things, referring to one who does something for the love of it and also to one who is not terribly competent at something. (from Merriam-Webster)

We love homebrewing and are not in it for the money. Some of us are astonishingly competent at it, whether using BIAB, 3V, or whatnot. Many of us produce beers we prefer to most professionally brewed products.

So, in one sense, amateur is a very good thing indeed.
 
Regarding the title of this thread, and in my role as Mr. Word Person:

amateur may mean two strikingly different things, referring to one who does something for the love of it and also to one who is not terribly competent at something. (from Merriam-Webster)

We love homebrewing and are not in it for the money. Some of us are astonishingly competent at it, whether using BIAB, 3V, or whatnot. Many of us produce beers we prefer to most professionally brewed products.

So, in one sense, amateur is a very good thing indeed.

Not to take away from what you said, but to add. If you use the word in a general sense to distinguish hobbyist from professional, I don't think it carries any connotation of skillset or quality. I think when people within an area of study are communicating with each other, the word DOES carry a different meaning; i.e. amateur suggests someone who has not yet refined their skillset to that of a connoisseur or master (professional or not). Maybe it doesn't but that's how I think of it. If another brewer called me an amateur I would take it as an insult.
 
Has anyone here taken part in a pro-am brew? Was it insulting to be called an amateur?

It amazes me that some have such strong opinions about how other brewers filter their wort.

Yes. No.

I did a pro/am last year. They don't do sanctioned pro/am events, just that the head brewer liked a beer I brewed and wanted to do 15 Bbls of it. Turned out great and it sold quickly. It was a hit. They never referred to me as "amateur," they called me "home brewer." But if they had called me amateur I understand the context of the term and would not have been offended. I don't make a living brewing beer.

We all treated each other respectfully and we had a good time. I learned a lot that brew day. If they invited me to do another, I'd jump at the opportunity.
 
If another brewer called me an amateur I would take it as an insult.
While you may not be a professional brewer per se, you do make your living at this and have devoted a good chunk of your adult life to learning and teaching the craft. So someone calling you an amateur would be very different than someone calling most of the rest of us amateurs.
 
I think he stopped responding after his botulism threads died off, but long story short, yes, BIAB is for amateurs. But so is every brewing method out there. Whether you start with Mr. Beer or a super complicated and technical system, it's all for amateurs!

In fact...

Now that I think about it...

The only system that isn't for amateurs is a 40bbl system... Yeah... (Because 100bbl systems actually are for amateurs... in a sense...)
 
Yes. No.

I did a pro/am last year. They don't do sanctioned pro/am events, just that the head brewer liked a beer I brewed and wanted to do 15 Bbls of it. Turned out great and it sold quickly. It was a hit. They never referred to me as "amateur," they called me "home brewer." But if they had called me amateur I understand the context of the term and would not have been offended. I don't make a living brewing beer.

We all treated each other respectfully and we had a good time. I learned a lot that brew day. If they invited me to do another, I'd jump at the opportunity.
Are they going to brew it again? Seems like they should, if it was a hit and sold well.
 
Was a BIAB brewer for 8+ years and now use an Anvil Foundry, which is basically still BIAB, but the last B is for basket instead of bag. BIAB beers are just as good as beers brewed on three vessel stainless systems that cost brewers thousands of dollars. I have over 150 medals from beer comps proving that and just two weeks ago took a Best in Show and a 2nd place Best in Show with two BIAB beers.
 
Besides the issue of lautering efficiency if doing no-sparge BIAB, I have a concern about water chemistry. My theory: The grains help buffer the mash pH. Thinner mash, as with full volume no-sparge, would allow more fluctuation in the water chemistry. So when I started BIAB, I went with a water-to-grist ratio of about 1.5 - 2.0 qt./lb in the mash. I never tried a full volume mash, so I can't say whether my theory is correct. Maybe someone can comment on this.

It's actually the opposite. The fact that I start with one volume of water and that's it, I calculate my water one time. There are no accommodations required for the dilution that the sparge water will add.

You can't ignore water chemistry for any kind of mash/lauter process but the calculations are more involved when you're introducing a sparge. Not only that but it's more likely to have tannin problems during the sparge IF you're a brewer that hasn't adopted water concerns yet.
 
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