Malted two-row barley is mixed with water at a prescribed temperature and allowed to rest until the starches of the malted barley are converted into fermentable sugars. This is called the saccharification rest. The sugary liquid (wort), must be separated from the wet grain (the mash) and this is called lautering.
Homebrewers typically use an insulated cooler, large pot or a food grade bucket to mix the grain and water together. This is called a mash tun. In a brewery the mash starts in a mash tun and then is moved to a lauter tun for lautering and then sparging (the 'rinsing' of the grain'). For most homebrewers the mash tun doubles as the lauter tun (referred to as a mash/lauter tun or MLT). In some cases, brewers use a technique utilizing a big bag--brew in a bag (BIAB)--in lieu of a MLT.
Traditional Sparging Methods
There are three primary ways of sparging: fly sparging, batch sparging, and no sparging. I have tried all of these methods and have found advantages and disadvantages to each. I have also tried BIAB and will describe it as well.
Fly Sparging
Fly Sparging
When fly sparging, the water is delivered to the top of the mash in the mash tun and allowed to pass through the grain bed as it is collected from the valve at the bottom. A grain bed will develop and this filters the loose particles of grain and can result in a very clear wort. I collect the first few quarts of wort and return it gently to the top the mash until the collected wort runs clear. This is called the vorlauf. Then I use a pitcher to gently pour the sparge water through a stainless steel pasta strainer suspended at the top of the mash tun to minimize disturbing the grain bed. Using gravity or a pump to feed the sparge water from a dedicated container of hot water (hot liquor tank) to a sparge arm suspended above the mash tun can make the process less labor intensive. Sparge arms come in various designs and are used to disperse the water gently to the top of the mash to prevent channeling. If the water erodes a channel through the grain bed it will not rinse the sugars from the wort causing a loss of efficiency.
Draining the Mash Tun Cooler
Ideally the grain bed is covered with at least one inch of water. Clogging of the drain valve can occur if the grain bed hits the bottom of the mash tun (stuck mash). Regulating the amount of water going in and the wort being drained out takes some practice. The mash tun will also require a manifold, bazooka screen or false bottom to prevent clogging the valve with grain when it is drained. Other than the vorlauf, fly sparging minimizes exposure to the air but it is time consuming. Some say there is a risk of tannin extraction (puckering flavors) with the rise in pH that can occur as the grain bed is slowly stripped of it's sugars.
Fly sparging pros and cons: Can produce a very clear wort and minimizes the risk of hot side aeration, but may be more time consuming than other methods. There is an increased risk of tannin extraction, and the process may require additional equipment to make it less labor intensive. It takes practice to master the technique, but should result in its excellent efficiency.
Batch Sparging
With batch sparging the wort is completely drained from the mash tun and then more hot water is added to the mash tun, stirred in well, a vorlauf (recirculation of a quart or two) done, and then the wort is drained off again. This is repeated to achieve the pre-boil volume if needed. Some brewers do this two or three times (double or triple batch sparge). Each additional batch possible could increase efficiency but slows the process and may increase the risk of hot side aeration and tannin extraction. Draining the mash tun slowly may promote a clearer wort. The mash tun will also require a manifold, bazooka screen or false bottom to prevent clogging when it is drained. I vorlouf a few quarts before draining the mash tun. In my experience batch sparging tends to produce a wort that is not quite as clear as fly sparging.
Batch sparging pros and cons: This may produce a cloudier wort, and may increase hot side aeration. However, it may save time and reduce the risk of tannin extraction, with the benefit of good efficiency.
No Sparge
No sparge is generally when you mash in with all the water and grain needed to achieve your pre-boil volume in one large batch. There is some discussion that the thin mash can affect starch conversion but many report good results. After the saccharification rest, I vorlauf a few quarts but I have found that no matter how gently I pour the wort on the grain bed it seems to stir up more particles because the mash is so thin. So I vorlauf briefly and then drain the entire mash tun at a moderate rate in one step. Overall it tends to be a cloudy wort. I get a significant drop in efficiency compared to the other methods, as much as 15-20%. Some say this technique may minimize tannin extraction and improve malt flavor. The mash tun will also require a manifold, bazooka screen or false bottom to prevent clogging when the mash tun is drained. Hot side aeration is minimal with a single period of stirring and a brief vorlauf. The pH should remain stable minimizing tannin extraction.
Bazooka Screen in Mash Tun Cooler
No sparge pros and cons: It's a simple, time saving procedure, with minimal risk of hot side aeration. It may extract less tannins than other methods, but may decrease wort clarity. No sparge requires more grain due to a significant loss of efficiency, and the thin mash may cause conversion issues. It requires a very large mash tun to stir in the entire volume of water and grain in one batch.
Brew In A Bag (BIAB)
Brew in a Bag is not a sparging method, but rather, an entirely different means to mash, in that it forgoes the need for a separate mash tun. Most brewers advise mixing the grain with as much water as your brew pot can hold to increase the mash volume and prevent thermal loss during the saccharification rest. When the rest is done, remove the bag of grain and allow it to drain above the pot to collect the excess wort. Then add any additional water to the pot to meet your pre-boil volume.
BIAB Sparging Methods
With BIAB, you can choose to sparge after the rest, or do no sparge at all. The sparge is the process of rinsing the bag of grain with additional water to increase efficiency. BIAB sparging is also a means for the brewer with a limited volume pot to hold back some water, then sparge with that water after the grain bag has been lifted from the pot.
Brew In A Bag [BIAB]
Sparging is often performed in one of two ways: the so-called "dunk sparge" and the "pour-over" sparge. With the dunk method, the grain bag is removed from the pot and immersed in a separate vessel of water. The wort from this is then added to the wort in the pot. The pour-over sparge involves slowly pouring sparge water over the grain bag while it is suspended over the pot. With either method, some brewers prefer to heat the sparge water, while others have had success using room temperature water for the sparge.
With no sparge BIAB, the mash process is performed using the entire volume of water, and the grain bag is removed from the pot after the rest. This requires a pot large enough to hold the water and grain.
Some say to avoid squeezing the bag as this may extract excess tannins, others squeeze away and they report good results with increased efficiency.
Some BIAB brewers report some loss of overall efficiency of 5 to 15% compared to other methods. Having your grain double crushed can overcome some of the efficiency loss, as stuck sparges are usually not an issue with BIAB.
I have used a hybrid BIAB method that I call batch BIAB. I use two 5 gallon pots. I mash the grain in one pot lined with a finely meshed nylon grain bag for 60 minutes. Then I lift the grain bag out and allow it to drain briefly. Then I lower the bag of wet grain into the other pot with the remaining hot water and stir vigorously, wait 15 minutes, then lift the bag out to let it drain. I use both pots to speed up the boil on my kitchen's stove top using all four burners. Using double crushed grain and the second rinse I get an overall efficiency of about 75%. Wort from BIAB tends to be cloudy but the fine mesh bag prevents any large particles or husks from staying in the boil pot.
Using Two Pots For The Boil
BIAB pros and cons: An easy and inexpensive way to start all grain brewing. However, disadvantages include cloudy wort, some risk of hot side aeration, risk of increased tannin extraction, and some loss of efficiency when compared to other methods. Also, the grain bag is hot, wet and heavy, and the mesh bag can rip, making a huge mess.
What is the best method? Each has its advantages and disadvantages. How much money are you willing to spend? How much time do you have for brewing? What equipment do you already own? Are you a thinker and a planner, or do you prefer simplicity? Every method has been used to produce good beer. Whichever method you use, try to develop a good routine so that you can perfect your technique and get consistent results.
Good Luck Brewing!
Homebrewers typically use an insulated cooler, large pot or a food grade bucket to mix the grain and water together. This is called a mash tun. In a brewery the mash starts in a mash tun and then is moved to a lauter tun for lautering and then sparging (the 'rinsing' of the grain'). For most homebrewers the mash tun doubles as the lauter tun (referred to as a mash/lauter tun or MLT). In some cases, brewers use a technique utilizing a big bag--brew in a bag (BIAB)--in lieu of a MLT.
Traditional Sparging Methods
There are three primary ways of sparging: fly sparging, batch sparging, and no sparging. I have tried all of these methods and have found advantages and disadvantages to each. I have also tried BIAB and will describe it as well.
Fly Sparging
Fly Sparging
When fly sparging, the water is delivered to the top of the mash in the mash tun and allowed to pass through the grain bed as it is collected from the valve at the bottom. A grain bed will develop and this filters the loose particles of grain and can result in a very clear wort. I collect the first few quarts of wort and return it gently to the top the mash until the collected wort runs clear. This is called the vorlauf. Then I use a pitcher to gently pour the sparge water through a stainless steel pasta strainer suspended at the top of the mash tun to minimize disturbing the grain bed. Using gravity or a pump to feed the sparge water from a dedicated container of hot water (hot liquor tank) to a sparge arm suspended above the mash tun can make the process less labor intensive. Sparge arms come in various designs and are used to disperse the water gently to the top of the mash to prevent channeling. If the water erodes a channel through the grain bed it will not rinse the sugars from the wort causing a loss of efficiency.
Draining the Mash Tun Cooler
Ideally the grain bed is covered with at least one inch of water. Clogging of the drain valve can occur if the grain bed hits the bottom of the mash tun (stuck mash). Regulating the amount of water going in and the wort being drained out takes some practice. The mash tun will also require a manifold, bazooka screen or false bottom to prevent clogging the valve with grain when it is drained. Other than the vorlauf, fly sparging minimizes exposure to the air but it is time consuming. Some say there is a risk of tannin extraction (puckering flavors) with the rise in pH that can occur as the grain bed is slowly stripped of it's sugars.
Fly sparging pros and cons: Can produce a very clear wort and minimizes the risk of hot side aeration, but may be more time consuming than other methods. There is an increased risk of tannin extraction, and the process may require additional equipment to make it less labor intensive. It takes practice to master the technique, but should result in its excellent efficiency.
Batch Sparging
With batch sparging the wort is completely drained from the mash tun and then more hot water is added to the mash tun, stirred in well, a vorlauf (recirculation of a quart or two) done, and then the wort is drained off again. This is repeated to achieve the pre-boil volume if needed. Some brewers do this two or three times (double or triple batch sparge). Each additional batch possible could increase efficiency but slows the process and may increase the risk of hot side aeration and tannin extraction. Draining the mash tun slowly may promote a clearer wort. The mash tun will also require a manifold, bazooka screen or false bottom to prevent clogging when it is drained. I vorlouf a few quarts before draining the mash tun. In my experience batch sparging tends to produce a wort that is not quite as clear as fly sparging.
Batch sparging pros and cons: This may produce a cloudier wort, and may increase hot side aeration. However, it may save time and reduce the risk of tannin extraction, with the benefit of good efficiency.
No Sparge
No sparge is generally when you mash in with all the water and grain needed to achieve your pre-boil volume in one large batch. There is some discussion that the thin mash can affect starch conversion but many report good results. After the saccharification rest, I vorlauf a few quarts but I have found that no matter how gently I pour the wort on the grain bed it seems to stir up more particles because the mash is so thin. So I vorlauf briefly and then drain the entire mash tun at a moderate rate in one step. Overall it tends to be a cloudy wort. I get a significant drop in efficiency compared to the other methods, as much as 15-20%. Some say this technique may minimize tannin extraction and improve malt flavor. The mash tun will also require a manifold, bazooka screen or false bottom to prevent clogging when the mash tun is drained. Hot side aeration is minimal with a single period of stirring and a brief vorlauf. The pH should remain stable minimizing tannin extraction.
Bazooka Screen in Mash Tun Cooler
No sparge pros and cons: It's a simple, time saving procedure, with minimal risk of hot side aeration. It may extract less tannins than other methods, but may decrease wort clarity. No sparge requires more grain due to a significant loss of efficiency, and the thin mash may cause conversion issues. It requires a very large mash tun to stir in the entire volume of water and grain in one batch.
Brew In A Bag (BIAB)
Brew in a Bag is not a sparging method, but rather, an entirely different means to mash, in that it forgoes the need for a separate mash tun. Most brewers advise mixing the grain with as much water as your brew pot can hold to increase the mash volume and prevent thermal loss during the saccharification rest. When the rest is done, remove the bag of grain and allow it to drain above the pot to collect the excess wort. Then add any additional water to the pot to meet your pre-boil volume.
BIAB Sparging Methods
With BIAB, you can choose to sparge after the rest, or do no sparge at all. The sparge is the process of rinsing the bag of grain with additional water to increase efficiency. BIAB sparging is also a means for the brewer with a limited volume pot to hold back some water, then sparge with that water after the grain bag has been lifted from the pot.
Brew In A Bag [BIAB]
Sparging is often performed in one of two ways: the so-called "dunk sparge" and the "pour-over" sparge. With the dunk method, the grain bag is removed from the pot and immersed in a separate vessel of water. The wort from this is then added to the wort in the pot. The pour-over sparge involves slowly pouring sparge water over the grain bag while it is suspended over the pot. With either method, some brewers prefer to heat the sparge water, while others have had success using room temperature water for the sparge.
With no sparge BIAB, the mash process is performed using the entire volume of water, and the grain bag is removed from the pot after the rest. This requires a pot large enough to hold the water and grain.
Some say to avoid squeezing the bag as this may extract excess tannins, others squeeze away and they report good results with increased efficiency.
Some BIAB brewers report some loss of overall efficiency of 5 to 15% compared to other methods. Having your grain double crushed can overcome some of the efficiency loss, as stuck sparges are usually not an issue with BIAB.
I have used a hybrid BIAB method that I call batch BIAB. I use two 5 gallon pots. I mash the grain in one pot lined with a finely meshed nylon grain bag for 60 minutes. Then I lift the grain bag out and allow it to drain briefly. Then I lower the bag of wet grain into the other pot with the remaining hot water and stir vigorously, wait 15 minutes, then lift the bag out to let it drain. I use both pots to speed up the boil on my kitchen's stove top using all four burners. Using double crushed grain and the second rinse I get an overall efficiency of about 75%. Wort from BIAB tends to be cloudy but the fine mesh bag prevents any large particles or husks from staying in the boil pot.
Using Two Pots For The Boil
BIAB pros and cons: An easy and inexpensive way to start all grain brewing. However, disadvantages include cloudy wort, some risk of hot side aeration, risk of increased tannin extraction, and some loss of efficiency when compared to other methods. Also, the grain bag is hot, wet and heavy, and the mesh bag can rip, making a huge mess.
What is the best method? Each has its advantages and disadvantages. How much money are you willing to spend? How much time do you have for brewing? What equipment do you already own? Are you a thinker and a planner, or do you prefer simplicity? Every method has been used to produce good beer. Whichever method you use, try to develop a good routine so that you can perfect your technique and get consistent results.
Good Luck Brewing!
