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What is it and what kind of yeast did you use? If it's something low ABV, take a reading and see if it's done. If it's on the higher end, I'd wait. Most often patience pays in this hobby.

I agree with Homercidal- Why not just throw a bit of campden tablet in next brew. For the cost of something like $0.02, you will eliminate a variable and be able to debug from there.

Story: I brewed for a few years, bottle priming, got on the IPA train. Was never happy with the outcome, even with tried & true recipes. Then a friend loaned me his kegs. Bam, suddenly my IPA's rocked. Don't want to say you -can't- do it with bottle priming, but I haven't figured out a way to...

1. Somewhat competitive pricing. 2. Malt choices. 3. Hop choices. 4. Yeast choices. 5. When I need equipment, I want it to be available. Basically, I want to be able to walk in with a recipe and walk out with the same thing, without feeling gouged. I love my LHBS. Can't imagine living without it.

Keg or bottle prime? I find bottle priming usually leads to just enough oxydation that it kills hop character, no matter how hard I try. When I keg my IPA's, they rock. Oxygen is your enemy,

I am not a fan of much if any crystal in my IPA's, but there are folks who are into it. Like anything else in homebrewing, try different things, see what YOU like.

I might consider pitching the ale yeast when you get it.

Late to the show here, but that is pretty lousy concrete work. It looks to me like the placed the concrete in parts, and did not consolidate the parts together. In the commercial world they would vibrate the sections together. Might have been a hot day and the mud was setting up quickly, but not...

Brew a second beer at 35 IBU and blend them together.

Why is it any different than a bottle conditioned beer? It will have CO2 in it and it will be capped. I might even argue its better because there is less chance for oxidation in the process.

Maine Beer Co. Lunch or Bissell Substance. Both can be had here without going to the brewery if you look for them. I really like where I live.

Yes you can. Star San sanitizes by pH and is stable for quite sometime. I usually use mine over and over again for about 3 months. If you are really motivated you can measure the pH. If it is 3 or lower it is still effective as a sanitizer.

It may be in my head, but I think my hoppy beers are better with naked hops. I dump them all to the fermentor. For non-hoppy beers, I use paint strainer bags.

...says the guy trying to sell you more gear...

I wouldn't worry about it either way. If it tastes good just drink it. People are drinking IPA's these days that look like mud.

A few weeks from now you'll be wishing you had just one more beer from that batch. Just saying.

+1 less sugar, something like half as much.

Copper is safe, potentially provides necessary nutrients for fermentation and readily available. It also is an excellent conductor. Yes, it's not cheap but it is cheaper than stainless and more readily available. If the concern is cost, then you should consider an ice bath for your brew kettle...

Why not just keep letting the wort cool in the pot? Transferring hot wort without a ball valve sounds like a good way to earn yourself a trip to the emergency room.

Do the beers taste sour or like vinegar? Are you getting gushers and/or bottle bombs? Are you getting a nasty film on top of the beer at any point (even in the bottles)? If not, is it really infected? Could it be something else (oxidation, fermenting too warm, incorrect mash temps, crap yeast...