I love the concept of induction heating, but I don't feel the Advantco is the right tool for the brewing application. Induction is a very versatile heat generator. Things could be so much better if a unit was actually engineered for the application.
I love the concept of induction heating, but I don't feel the Advantco is the right tool for the brewing application. Induction is a very versatile heat generator. Things could be so much better if a unit was actually engineered for the application.
Just keep in mind, for $180 there simply is NO alternative. I'm looking at buying a 2nd one (don't tell SWMBO).
So what do you envision would make a better brewing induction heater?
Have you tried unplugging and plugging it back in to confirm that it could be manually controlled? The problem with the IC3500 and perhaps all or most induction units is that they reset to low/zero power when power is removed.I purchased this unit because it had a manual control which means that later I can automate using a PID and an SSR to control the power to the unit.
... as i said I think I can automate with it somewhere down the road.
Have you tried unplugging and plugging it back in to confirm that it could be manually controlled? The problem with the IC3500 and perhaps all or most induction units is that they reset to low/zero power when power is removed.
[This electrical engineer plans to try to figure out a way to control the power on an IC3500, but no telling how long that will take. ]
That sounds great, unless it's at a whiz bang price point.I'd hold off on spending a bunch of money and time on these things... I'm guessing that some pretty whiz bang induction equipment is going to be released to the market in the near future.
Yeah, I'm right there with you.It's too new for me to tear it open just yet! I'll get a couple more brews in before I consider looking into modifications. Hard thing for this electronics engineer to do!
The problem with an element is that you can't directly heat a mash with it. It will scorch any grain that comes in contact with it. So then you need to set up RIMS or HERMS, with their inherent disadvantages.If you're planning on going PID control, then why bother with the induction setup? The fittings and element for your kettle would cost less.
Sure you can. The issue is if you want to do a conventional mash in a mash tun. Most elements are pretty big. If you put one under the false bottom, you end up with a lot of dead space.You can use an element in a mash, you just need to keep the grain off of it and a relatively rapid recirculation. I do it all the time in my eBIAB rig.
If you think that induction is any safer in a mash, you're probably mistaken. The watts/surface area is higher and you still need to keep the grain away from the heating area.
That is great if you want to BIAB.I'm only offering advice based on my own experiences. I started with induction, realized that I'd have far more control with an element in the kettle and a DSPR120.
Really ? And you've tried all the methods of doing that on all the induction systems out there ?Don't get me wrong; induction works but trying to convert it to a temp control option isn't really cost effective or viable.
How many Kw would you like ? 2,3,5,10, 15, 20... ?Besides that, a kettle element is higher wattage
Wanna race ?and nearly 100% heat transfer, so much faster temp rises and shorter time-to-boil.
An average DIYer cannot design and build an induction setup for brewing. That's the complete opposite of what can be done with resistance heating, PID/DSPR120/SSVR which is downrigth simple, by comparison.
A big advantage of induction over an internal element is that there's no element inside the kettle to clean or disinfect. Yes, there are disadvantages, but less crap to deal with is significant.If you're planning on going PID control, then why bother with the induction setup? The fittings and element for your kettle would cost less.
I'm not bashing induction. I'm merely stating that it has limitations.
Respectfully, you've got it wrong. Induction doesn't have many limitations. The Advanco 3500 is what has the limitations.
I'm subscribed to this thread because the Advanco users are probably the most advanced brewers using induction.
If you wan the convince of electrical brewing, without huge expenses, then this is the way to go.
And it would be even better with a larger coil for lower heat density, more power, 5Kw versus 3.5Kw, and a built in controller so that you can walk away and it stays at the set temperature. If you like controlling it manually, set it up for manual control.
Induction is in its infancy in this hobby.
How about the idea of plugging 5 kW appliances into a wall socket in a home setting?
Your 20A/240V drop is fine for the 3.5kW IC3500, but isn't sufficient for 5kW. You really need a 25A minimum drop for that.I wired a 20A 120/240VAC receptacle into the back of the pot drawer in our island. I used 12/3 wire and it is protected by a GFCI.How about the idea of plugging 5 kW appliances into a wall socket in a home setting?
Your 20A/240V drop is fine for the 3.5kW IC3500, but isn't sufficient for 5kW. You really need a 25A minimum drop for that.
2. Add two SSR's to the wire pairs that will activate the up/down switches. The switches had around 5 volts DC on them (if I remember correctly) and when shorted together it will act like the switch was pressed. Status: Need to find the SSR's.
Most breakers will pass 20-50% more current than their nominal rating for hours.
5,000 watts/240V = 20.83 Amps.
20.83 Amps/ 20A = 4% "overload"
Advocating this is both stupid and dangerous. Deliberately running a circuit above (no matter how slightly) it's rated capacity could burn someone's house down.
Also, not sure where you got the breakers passing more current than their rating for 'hours'. Most breakers used in residential applications are 80% load rated.
Not all "SSR"s will switch DC loads. Use opto isolotators instead. FOD814A or similar.
Spring loaded cover. The back in that cabinet is 1/2" plywood.Also: That wiring you're showing in your picture would fail inspection around here. You have 'soft' in-wall wiring in an exposed area, prone to damage from any items in those drawers.
Not talking about the outlet. I'm talking about the exposed romex wiring to the right of it.
Hi I'm looking to buy an induction cooker as well. Here in New Zealand they are hard to find, can only find one for >$500. I did find this one on Aliexpress, has some decent reviews, what do you guys think?
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