Will this cheap 3500 watt induction burner work?

[chocotaco]

Interesting idea. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aspen-Aerog...phobic-Mat-Per-Linear-Foot-10mm-/180860317203

Not very thick, but relatively inexpensive. I don't know if you found a cheaper source.

Nope, that's exactly what I was looking at. By my calculations I would probably need 2 linear feet to be able to be sure of having enough to cover the whole kettle and lid. R-value of one layer would be about 4.5 which isn't amazing, but is pretty good for the thickness of the material (and definitely sufficient for getting great boils and steady mashes)

 

[chocotaco]

P.S. the rolls are 57" (4.75 ft) so 2 linear feet is 9.5 sq ft.

 

[chocotaco]

Heads up for anyone who has been thinking about getting one of these IC3500 units (or getting another one).

They are on sale for $148.99 (reg $179.99) at webstaurantstore.com with code FSRANGES through 10/8.

 

[humann_brewing]

Heads up for anyone who has been thinking about getting one of these IC3500 units (or getting another one).

They are on sale for $148.99 (reg $179.99) at webstaurantstore.com with code FSRANGES through 10/8.

dang! I just bought mine

 

[brettwasbtd]

I finally pulled the trigger, didn't use the code above and it is October 12th, but I still got it for $149 +$11 shipping

 

[brettwasbtd]

Got my unit yesterday and gave it a "wet" water run tonight. I also posted this in the other thread, but will throw the info in a quote below with a link to the other thread. My concern is although it appeared to be boiling, the temp wouldn't go above 209°F. I put the lid on and it got to 210°F and started leaking water out the top from violent bubbling! Should this be a concern? Anyone else with this unit getting actual boil temps?

• Induction Burner: Avantco IC3500 Countertop Induction Range / Cooker - 208/240V, 3500 Watt
• Model # of Kettle: Bayou Classic 1036
• Batch Size: 4.5gal/7.5gal
• Heats 4.5 gals to mash temps in 14 mins
• Heats 7.5 gals from mash to boil in 33 mins

Just Received and Tested my bayou classic 9 gallon pot (no insulation) with the Avantco ic3500. I tried to simulate a brewday by filling my kettle with 4.5 gallons of hot water from the tap and heating at max power with the lid on. I stopped when I get to high temp for preheating the cooler ~175°F. I then add 3 gallons of water to get an idea of how long it would take to get from mash temps to boil*.

4.5 gallons with lid on
00:00 - 119°F
05:00 - 137°F
11:00 - 164°F
14:00 - 175°F

7.5 gallons with lid off
00:00 - 152°F
05:00 - 163°F
10:00 - 173°F
15:00 - 183°F
20:00 - 192°F
25:00 - 200°F
30:00 - 206°F
33:00 - 209°F/Boil*

* couldn't get it any higher with the lid off. It was definitely turning the water over and appeared to be boiling, but the temp wasn't at 212°F. Used two different thermometers, one being a thermapen that read 212°F in last saturdays brewday when boiling on my propane burner.

 

[MerlinWerks]

FWIW, boiling point at your altitude is 210.4F
Mine is 209.9F and it gets there for me, although it certainly isn't the thunderous type of boil you get from a propane burner. After 10 batches I've pleased been with the results.

Depending on how I feel I might partially cover with the lid now and then during the boil and always after dropping in the IC. Nary a trace of DMS ever detected...

 

[brettwasbtd]

FWIW, boiling point at your altitude is 210.4F
Mine is 209.9F and it gets there for me, although it certainly isn't the thunderous type of boil you get from a propane burner. After 10 batches I've pleased been with the results.

Depending on how I feel I might partially cover with the lid now and then during the boil and always after dropping in the IC. Nary a trace of DMS ever detected...

Thanks! I didn't even consider that in the mix. Is it possible that I was getting 212 degrees the last time I brewed because there was sugar in the liquid versus just plain water tonight? I know when you're trying to make candy with sugar the temperature can get a lot higher

 

[MerlinWerks]

I believe there is some merit in that. i was going to mention that the boil is a bit more vigorous with wort than just plain water, but got distracted

 

[moshmont]

Just bought my second 3500 this morning!
On sale for $149.00 @ WEBstaurantStore com!

 

[humann_brewing]

I now have 2 of these and I also got one of each the Bayou classic 1060 and the 15g tall boy (tri clad) to try and see which one worked better. I have used both seperately now but plan on a dual batch side by side comparison with BIAG no sparge batches in each.

So far I have supplemented power with heat sticks which really speeds up the heat times and actually the 2000w heat stick will maintain 7g of boiling wort easily by itself

 

[Duke-a-Beer]

Ok just read the whole post start to finish, lots of info there...
Not a electrical dude, but know enough to be dangerous.

I am in New Zealand and we run on 240vac single phase, 50/60Hz.
I am assuming that the Avantco 3500 will run fine in NZ with a 20A circuit breaker?

I have a 20A circuit for my spa pool so I can run an extension cord.

Now these units are not available in NZ, so I will need to import one. That means air freight. Can someone tell me the weight of this unit and roughly the box size? This is so I can work out the air freight cost.

Now for my main question.
Would you still use this Induction cook top if you could use / have a large four ring burner ready to go and no issues brewing in the shed as it never gets to hot or cold.?

The only reason is gas cost.... I would say it is costing me $10 for each brew in gas so I would save $400 a year in gas... Is it worth it?

I have a great high quality 50l (13g) brew pot that is magnetic.

Thanks for your help.

 

[rayf]

What are all of you induction users using to ventilate your basement brewing steam?

 

[brettwasbtd]

What are all of you induction users using to ventilate your basement brewing steam?

If you can set the burners up near a window some people are using box fans, or a direct vent through the window. A lot of people are buying the 6" fans and ducting to the outside. I started a thread to request info, but it did not garner a whole lot of replies

If anyone hasn't replied to that thread, please do so here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/request-steam-ventillation-information-474114/

 

[IslandLizard]

Ok just read the whole post start to finish, lots of info there...
Not a electrical dude, but know enough to be dangerous.

I am in New Zealand and we run on 240vac single phase, 50/60Hz.
I am assuming that the Avantco 3500 will run fine in NZ with a 20A circuit breaker?

I have a 20A circuit for my spa pool so I can run an extension cord.

Now these units are not available in NZ, so I will need to import one. That means air freight. Can someone tell me the weight of this unit and roughly the box size? This is so I can work out the air freight cost.

Now for my main question.
Would you still use this Induction cook top if you could use / have a large four ring burner ready to go and no issues brewing in the shed as it never gets to hot or cold.?

The only reason is gas cost.... I would say it is costing me $10 for each brew in gas so I would save $400 a year in gas... Is it worth it?

I have a great high quality 50l (13g) brew pot that is magnetic.

Thanks for your help.

The shipping box is 16x19x6". I estimate 15 pounds total, it's not that heavy. The sides are encased in preformed foam, and there's an inch foam pad to protect the glass plate. Double boxing will add weight and size, but may not be a bad idea, since there are hollow spaces where the glass plate and bottom are.

These come from China and maybe sold under different "brand" names elsewhere.

They're rated 208-240V, so you're in good shape with your 20A spa panel.

However to do 13 gallon boils you'll need some extra oomph in addition to the IC3500, such as a 2000W heat stick. I can only boil 13 gallons using the IC3500 solely if I leave the lid on partially, and insulate the sides. Outdoors, you got to factor in wind chill too.

If electricity (kWh price) is relatively cheap, you'd make your money back within a year.

 

[humann_brewing]

The shipping box is 16x19x6". I estimate 15 pounds total, it's not that heavy. The sides are encased in preformed foam, and there's an inch foam pad to protect the glass plate. Double boxing will add weight and size, but may not be a bad idea, since there are hollow spaces where the glass plate and bottom are.

These come from China and maybe sold under different "brand" names elsewhere.

They're rated 208-240V, so you're in good shape with your 20A spa panel.

However to do 13 gallon boils you'll need some extra oomph in addition to the IC3500, such as a 2000W heat stick. I can only boil 13 gallons using the IC3500 solely if I leave the lid on partially, and insulate the sides. Outdoors, you got to factor in wind chill too.

If electricity (kWh price) is relatively cheap, you'd make your money back within a year.

Yep, I have yet to do a 10g batch (13+ gallons of wort) but I can certainly see how you need more umph especially to get to a boil in a descent amount of time. I am even using 2000w heatstick on 5g batches just to speed temp rises oh and they go quick.

 

[Duke-a-Beer]

Sorry forgot to add that I only do 6g brews (23l) so I expect not to need the extra grunt.

Is gas or induction better?
I will time my zero to mash and mash to boil and see how it compares.

Next brew this weekend.

 

[brewguyver]

Did anyone ever figure out an easy jumper for this guy? At minimum i'd like to do this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190823366460?lpid=82) but with an inline 20a breaker. Not having much luck finding a simple extension cord option, or a small subpanel i could wire it through. I've skimmed the first 20 pages again, but didn't see it.

I'm comfortable snapping breakers into a standard panel, but i'm trying to stick to the dryer connection until my basement reno is done. Also trying to avoid the "wall -> spa panel -> project box -> din-rail breaker(s) -> outlet -> cooker" if I can.

 

[IslandLizard]

Did anyone ever figure out an easy jumper for this guy? At minimum i'd like to do this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190823366460?lpid=82) but with an inline 20a breaker. Not having much luck finding a simple extension cord option, or a small subpanel i could wire it through. I've skimmed the first 20 pages again, but didn't see it.

I'm comfortable snapping breakers into a standard panel, but i'm trying to stick to the dryer connection until my basement reno is done. Also trying to avoid the "wall -> spa panel -> project box -> din-rail breaker(s) -> outlet -> cooker" if I can.

I think if you're seriously interested in using the IC3500, you should spend the time and review the thread a quite bit more thoroughly. Your answers are all here. And then some.

That eBay adapter is NOT going to work. It's an RV adapter 110V and 15A. The IC3500 needs 240V and 20A on a NEMA 6-20R receptacle.

You can make your own adapter using a dryer plug and a 6-20 socket quite easily. No need for a spa panel.

 

[IslandLizard]

Sorry forgot to add that I only do 6g brews (23l) so I expect not to need the extra grunt.

Is gas or induction better?
I will time my zero to mash and mash to boil and see how it compares.

Next brew this weekend.

For 6 gallon batches (and a bit larger) the IC3500 is just perfect, and economical. Plus I use it for wokking, frying, and making large batches of soup, sauce, stew, and what not.

Sample scenario:
On brew day, I start heating strike water, then weight and mill the grains. By that time the strike water is about ready. After filling the mash tun, I let it sit for 5-10 minutes, take and correct the temp if needed and start mashing. About 20 minutes before the mash is done I start heating sparge water.

As soon as the first gallon of first runnings gets into the kettle I start heating them together with FWH. I keep adding more wort as it gets lautered. By the time the 2nd sparge is completely lautered I'm 15 minutes from boiling.

Is gas better than induction?

The heating capacity of propane or NG using a large banjo (or jet) burner is way more than the IC3500, even while almost half of that energy is wasted to the environment.

For a 6 gallon brew I can get 3-4 gallons of strike water ready in 5 minutes on my Blichmann burner, at full bore. I wouldn't have my grains ready by then, though. Now for 10-20 gallon batches the scenario changes, the potential heating output of gas gets an advantage over the IC3500, unless you use supplemental heating sources, such as elements, heating sticks, split boils, etc.

 

[laserghost]

Jumping in here because I want to get the IC3500 and I'm wondering if it's going to work with my power supply at my apartment. There is a 240v 50a outlet in the kitchen where I want to brew and the electric range is plugged into it with a 10-50 type plug. I've figured out how I could wire a cord to go from the 10-50 plug to the 6-20 receptacle for the Avantco.

There's still the whole 50a to 20a thing, though. I was thinking of wiring in two 20a circuit breakers before the 6-20 receptacle, but would that actually help anything aside from frying the burner, and will it just be tripping all the time because there's 50a available from the source outlet?

Just spoke with a guy on the phone at the hardware store and he said I'd need a step down transformer, which they don't have. Really hoping there's a solution here where I can use this outlet. Anyone have advice, or deal with the same scenario successfully?

Cheers!

 

[trussell]

Well, snap. I contacted the webrestaurantstore.com customer service department and they tell me that the pot diameter needs to roughly match the burner diameter. I'm probably not going to find a 8.5" diameter pot that can handle a full boil, right?

Any other thoughts guys?? Thanks for all the help.

I have that 3500W from the webrestaurantstore.com and use a 10 Gallon ~13.5" pot and get a nice vigorous boil. I haven't read thought this thread fully but it does the job.

 

[IslandLizard]

Jumping in here because I want to get the IC3500 and I'm wondering if it's going to work with my power supply at my apartment. There is a 240v 50a outlet in the kitchen where I want to brew and the electric range is plugged into it with a 10-50 type plug. I've figured out how I could wire a cord to go from the 10-50 plug to the 6-20 receptacle for the Avantco.

There's still the whole 50a to 20a thing, though. I was thinking of wiring in two 20a circuit breakers before the 6-20 receptacle, but would that actually help anything aside from frying the burner, and will it just be tripping all the time because there's 50a available from the source outlet?

Breakers protect your wiring, not your devices or appliances. An appliance will take as many amps from the circuit as it needs, until the breaker trips. Putting a IC3500, which draws around 15A, on a 50A circuit will never max that circuit out. You're safe there. But... if a short should occur in the IC3500 before its internal fuse, or anywhere in the cord feeding it, it will pull up to 50 Amps from your mains and melt the cord before hopefully and ultimately tripping the 50A breaker. So yes, a single phase, double pole 20A breaker would prevent that and make it safer. Otherwise just be careful, don't sever or damage the cord, walk away for long times, or leave the unit plugged in.

Please read the whole thread, this has been covered already with some ideas on how to make the adapter with and without breakers.

Just spoke with a guy on the phone at the hardware store and he said I'd need a step down transformer, which they don't have. Really hoping there's a solution here where I can use this outlet. Anyone have advice, or deal with the same scenario successfully?

Cheers!

Oh, that's rich!
Step down transformer? Hardware store clerk? Is he an electrician? Apparently not.

There is nothing to step down to, except for stairs.

 

[laserghost]

lol. thanks IslandLizard. I'll carry on as planned with my adapter cord + circuit breakers.

 

[IslandLizard]

lol. thanks IslandLizard. I'll carry on as planned with my adapter cord + circuit breakers.

If you use 2 single breakers, instead of one double pole one, they SHOULD be linked, so both flip on/off if one gets triggered.

I had a whole house run through an oven once, like a huge rheostat, making for some nice atmosphere lighting.

 

[laserghost]

i meant a single double pole breaker!

 

[IslandLizard]

i meant a single double pole breaker!

I'm curious how you attach the wires to the breaker clips.

Perhaps you can post a picture of the inside and outside of your custom adapter when you're done building it?

It could be helpful for those wanting to build something similar. Many people have the 50A stove outlet. But they are a hassle to get to as they are typically behind the stove giving no front side access.

Alternatively you could wire it with 20A extension cords from two separate 20A/110V outlets where breakers are on opposite sides in the panel. Many homes don't have 20A circuits though, except for the kitchen and garage.

 

[laserghost]

Yeah I'll post pics when I do it in the next few weeks. Just ordered some components on eBay and Amazon and will finish up at the depot.

My stove is on the end and not fixed in any way so it's very easy to just slide it out and access the outlet.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[IslandLizard]

Yeah I'll post pics when I do it in the next few weeks. Just ordered some components on eBay and Amazon and will finish up at the depot.

My stove is on the end and not fixed in any way so it's very easy to just slide it out and access the outlet.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

One guy earlier in the thread was going to make a splitter so he could leave his range plugged in one leg, and use the other leg for the IC3500 without having to pull out his stove each time. Not exactly up to any code, so he's on his own so to speak. But even if he ran a few stovetop elements concurrently, it would still be way under 50A total. The oven alone could count for 2000-7000W depending on configuration and model.

 

[brewguyver]

Yeah I'll post pics when I do it in the next few weeks. Just ordered some components on eBay and Amazon and will finish up at the depot.

My stove is on the end and not fixed in any way so it's very easy to just slide it out and access the outlet.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I'm working on a build for something similar - let me know how it goes.

I also have a 60A breaker in the kitchen (on a 100+ A wire no less) from when my house had an old electric stove. Since this is supposed to help me get *out* of the kitchen, I'm targeting the 30A dryer plug in the basement.