Me tooJLem said:I start my timer once the bittering hops go in - this is usually a few minutes after I'm up to a roiling boil to give the hot break time to form and the foam to subside. I have very little room at the top of my kettle and if I add the hops too soon, I get major boil overs. So I might boil for 65 minutes, bit still have a 60 minute hop addition.
You're assuming 212 I'd boiling for everyone. You have to know what your boil temp is for your altitude, etc. for instance at my altitude it's 210.Big_Cat said:When my temperatures reach 212* f and hops are dropped in.
::insert snarky comment about necro-threading;;I'm keen to revamp this thread as I've been wondering if my approach accounts for the fact that I often finish the boil slightly under volume.
I run a continuous sparge into the kettle and start heating as soon as the wort covers the heating element. It struck me last brewday that the evaporation process really ramps up for the duration of the remaining sparge time during which the wort in the mid-60s °C is preventing the kettle from getting to boiling point. I'm inclined to record the boil as started when I can see a current and some hot break, but before it's fully rolling.
How far below sea level are you?::insert snarky comment about necro-threading;;
Got that out of the way for those that feel the need.
Anyways, I start it when my wort hits 215 (boiling here).
That said, I just watched a video that I thought was really clever. I'd seen it before, but forgot - a symptom of homebrewitis. This guy marks his kettle at his desired pre-boil volume boils to that level, then starts the timer. Not that novel, but seemed like a stupid simple concept to always hit numbers, as I find the most variance in my process is pre-boil (biab).
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