Question regarding hops and cooling wort

[redrocker652002]

Just sitting here thinking and watching videos regarding brewing when a question came to my mind. I use a hop bag during my boil to add the hops at the scheduled time. Once I am done with the boil, I tend to pull the bag and start my cooling process with my IC and a large cooler full of ice and water. My question to you all is this: Do you pull the hop bag before the cooling process, or do you keep it in during the cooling and pull it once the wort is in the fermenter? I am thinking, that if I leave the hop bag in, I might get bit more flavor from the hops and might be a better outcome (not that the outcome has been bad, I have enjoyed just about all I have brewed so far). I have not tried whirlpooling yeat, as I have to figure out a way to get a paddle into the middle of my IC to get the wort moving. But that is another question to be asked. My question on this one is simple, when do you remove the hop bag or hop spider from the wort? Before, during or after the cooling process has started?

 

[IslandLizard]

I agree, to extract the maximum, leave the hops in until after transfer to the fermenter. The difference may be quite subtle, though, but 15-30 minutes extra of steeping should yield something.

Yes, whirlpooling and hopstands need some periodic agitation. Chiller can stay in place.

Now if you want a cone of hops to appear in the center of the kettle, the IC needs to be removed and you've got to stir quite vigorously to get the cyclone to form. I use a wooden cooking paddle, but one of those long (plastic) brew spoons should suffice.

 

[Somesaymybeerisdrinkable]

I stopped bagging my hops and I don't wait long enough after chilling to let all of the hops settle in the kettle before transferring to the fermenter. If you can cold crash and transfer the finished beer from above the sediment, then the extra trub shouldn't be a problem in the fermenter.

 

[Miraculix]

I like to squeeze the hop bags to get all the hoppy wort out of it. For this, the wort must be hot to avoid infections. So pre-chilling it is for me.

 

[BeerAndTele]

Most of the time I'm brewing hoppy beers so I just leave the hop bag(s) in the kettle until the wort is cool. Maximize the flavor extraction, I figure. But I don't squeeze them like @Miraculix does ... seems too messy to me.

Rock on.

 

[IslandLizard]

I like to squeeze the hop bags to get all the hoppy wort out of it. For this, the wort must be hot to avoid infections. So pre-chilling it is for me.

I drain the hop bags several times (once every 10-15 minutes) during the boil and whirlpool. They then get squeezed almost dry at the end of the last whirlpool/hopstand (~140F), before chilling down to ferm temps.

I use sanitized silicone mitts for the squeezing.

 

[redrocker652002]

Awesome replies all. Thank you very much for the info. Seems I might have been missing out on some flavor and aroma by not leaving the hop bag in. I am going to try that next time. I don't mind getting my hands a bit sticky, I can wash them out. LOL. Rock On!!!!!!!

 

[IslandLizard]

I don't mind getting my hands a bit sticky, I can wash them out.

I'd recommend using (sanitized) mitts/gloves, though. Even 140F is too hot for skin contact.

Not sure about infection risks when using bare hands at 100-110F, which is about the max temp you want to submerge your hands into.

Mine are a very similar style to these (Amazon link), but in black, and named ORKA. They do look like an Orca mouth.
Easy cleaning and sanitizing.

 

[redrocker652002]

I'd recommend using (sanitized) mitts/gloves, though. Even 140F is too hot for skin contact.

Not sure about infection risks when using bare hands at 100-110F, which is about the max temp you want to submerge your hands into.

Mine are a very similar style to these (Amazon link), but in black, and named ORKA. They do look like an Orca mouth.
Easy cleaning and sanitizing.

Thanks for the link. I will put those in the cart for purchase. I was half being sarcastic, but you are right. I would be dumb enough to grab hold of the bag after a few and realize quickly how stupid that really was. LOL.

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks for the link. I will put those in the cart for purchase. I was half being sarcastic, but you are right. I would be dumb enough to grab hold of the bag after a few and realize quickly how stupid that really was. LOL.

Good idea!
Let me add, mine do not have a (removable) cotton lining, just all silicone, inside and out.
They do look like that picture, which also come in green and pink!

Just be careful not to stick em too deep into the kettle, you don't want them to fill up...

 

[Miraculix]

I use random xl rubber gloves intended for cleaning and wear some thicker gloves inside intended for the winter weather. That way I can sanitise them and protect me from the heat.

 

[Closet Fermenter]

I have used a drop-in hop spider for my single hopped brews. I typically fish it out before chilling so I am not banging it with my spoon during chilling.
When using multiple hop additions, I just throw them in loose, and strain them back out with a stainless steel paint strainer from Amazon that someone here recommended.

 

[Civilian]

As far as how to start a whirlpool (with hop pellets not contained), I put IC in last ten minutes and dip the plastic spoon that comes with various starter kits. At end of boil I pull the IC out (with a glove) and start a whirlpool vigorously and turn on brewzilla pump attached to whirlpool arm then re insert the IC and start the cooling process. I watch the wort to make sure it is spinning with an occasional stir with the spoon. Ilike keeping the pump running as I will use it to transfer to my fermenter using the splash method through a hop bag.

 

[faithie999]

I have used a drop-in hop spider for my single hopped brews. I typically fish it out before chilling so I am not banging it with my spoon during chilling.
When using multiple hop additions, I just throw them in loose, and strain them back out with a stainless steel paint strainer from Amazon that someone here recommended.

I assume you mean that you drain the contents of your brew kettle into the SS paint strainer and into the fermenter?

 

[redrocker652002]

I have used a drop-in hop spider for my single hopped brews. I typically fish it out before chilling so I am not banging it with my spoon during chilling.
When using multiple hop additions, I just throw them in loose, and strain them back out with a stainless steel paint strainer from Amazon that someone here recommended.

I am interested in what size and what micron number strainer you have? I have a Home Depot and Lowe's local that I can probably pick one up. Does it have to be stainless steel? I tried cheese cloth and it just got way too plugged up and was a pain. If I can get something easy to rinse and easy to clean that would be a bonus.

 

[Bassman2003]

To your original question, it is no problem to leave them in all the way to the end, just account for it in your recipe.

I used to do the hops bags, then went to a spider and all was fine. I now go commando, chill with an immersion chiller, the let settle for 20-30 minutes and then transfer very clear wort to the fermenter. I am not a fan of transferring trub and hops into the fermenter. Yes it is convenient and easier but I believe that stuff is meant to be left behind. Don't fall in to the justification that it is yeast food Zinc is really the only thing that yeast want/need that can be added.

This is the best way I have found. I did not know to do it this way for a long time, but it is easy and yields the best wort and hop contact.

 

[redrocker652002]

To your original question, it is no problem to leave them in all the way to the end, just account for it in your recipe.

I used to do the hops bags, then went to a spider and all was fine. I now go commando, chill with an immersion chiller, the let settle for 20-30 minutes and then transfer very clear wort to the fermenter. I am not a fan of transferring trub and hops into the fermenter. Yes it is convenient and easier but I believe that stuff is meant to be left behind. Don't fall in to the justification that it is yeast food Zinc is really the only thing that yeast want/need that can be added.

This is the best way I have found. I did not know to do it this way for a long time, but it is easy and yields the best wort and hop contact.

By letting it settle for 30 mins, do you lose any heat when pitching the yeast? I have a screen at the bottom of my kettle so letting things settle might just gum up the screen even worse. LOL.. But the paint strainer idea is a good one.

 

[Somesaymybeerisdrinkable]

My understanding of dip hopping is that it's a hop stand in the fermenter, and the hops are left in through fermentation. I assume doing a hop stand in the kettle and transferring the hops to the fermenter would give similar results. This is partially justification to not have as many things to clean on brew day.

One idea I have played with but not tried yet is to use a full size brew bag to line the kettle, so the hops have full access to the wort but can be removed before transferring to the fermenter.

 

[MaxStout]

I drain the hop bags several times (once every 10-15 minutes) during the boil and whirlpool. They then get squeezed almost dry at the end of the last whirlpool/hopstand (~140F), before chilling down to ferm temps.

I use sanitized silicone mitts for the squeezing.

I do the same thing. Lift the hops bag above the boil every 15-20 minutes, let it drain about 30 seconds. Maybe give the bag a pinch with the kitchen tongs, then back in the boil. I don't trust diffusion alone to ensure the hops oils make their way into the boil.

 

[BongoYodeler]

I used to add hops in a hop bag, but now I just throw all the hops in commando at their required times and they stay in until transfer. As far as whirlpooling, (a 30 minute hop stand at 175° for example for an ipa), I use my Jaded Hydra. I just grab it and use it to whirlpool the hops/wort occasionally during the 30 minutes. As the 30 minutes winds down I give it one last whirlpool, pull it, and put the lid on for 20-30 minutes to let things settle. Seems to work for me.

 

[Bassman2003]

By letting it settle for 30 mins, do you lose any heat when pitching the yeast? I have a screen at the bottom of my kettle so letting things settle might just gum up the screen even worse. LOL.. But the paint strainer idea is a good one.

Surprisingly little temperature is gained during the settling period. Even in the Texas summer. I use a SS Brewtech kettle which is fairly thick with a floating SS cap for oxygen defense and the kettle lid on.

Hop particles and trub are so small that I see screens as kind of a waste of time outside of whole cone hops. I had a rotating pickup arm modified by a welder so I could transfer only in the clear areas. Sediment imho is best left to settle and sit undisturbed. Throw the hops in, chill, let it settle and transfer away the clear bits. Simple is often best.

 

[mac_1103]

I just throw them in loose, and strain them back out with a stainless steel paint strainer from Amazon that someone here recommended.

I am interested in what size and what micron number strainer you have?

Paint strainers from Amazon. They work, but they will clog. Stirring with a sanitized stainless steel spoon while straining helps things along.

 

[InspectorJon]

I use a 5 gallon paint strainer bag as a hop bag in the boil. It seems big enough to give plenty of contact with the wort. I pull the bag with 15 minutes left in the boil, put the immersion chiller in and put the bag back in. The bag stays in for hop stand/whirlpool additions. I stir occasionally with a sanitized SS spoon during the hop stand. Before final cooling I squeeze the bag against the side of the kettle with the sanitized spoon.

Regarding the "stuff" left in the bottom of the kettle - I let the cooled wort sit, covered for 1/2 hour or so before transferring to the fermentor. I try to leave as much of the trub in the kettle as possible and get as much clear wart out as possible. It's a balancing act.

I am cheap and hate to loose any good wort so take what remains in the kettle and put it in a gallon container and put it in the refrigerator. After a couple of days there is a quart or more of clear wort that I siphon off, put in plastic soda bottles and freeze. I use that for yeast starter wort later. I might have to dilute it to make proper starter wort and it gets boiled again to sanitize.

 

[balrog]

I hop commando style no bag
I also throw it all in the fermenter
Just sayin'

 

[DonT]

I hop commando style no bag
I also throw it all in the fermenter
Just sayin'

My hops swim naked too, except I use a screen filter in the BK to keep 'em there.

 

[seatazzz]

I use a hop spider, with a sock I make from stocking bandage (cheap at amazon), like what is used under a plaster cast for a broken bone, for bittering and late hop additions. Keg lid gasket fits perfectly over the spider to hold the sock in place. And I pull the hops before chilling; but I use my most excellent spatutongs instead of gloves. Too scared to clog my plate chiller hopping commando, as I do not have a screen on the bent diptube in the BK.

 

[Broken Crow]

I just throw my hop pellets in and leave them. I have constant recirculation and an oversized 'pillow-filter' on the diptube (a sheet of 420 mesh folded and sewn to about a 10" square with some SS wire inside to prevent collapse and allow wort entry above and below)...never plugs. On the way to the fermenter I have one of those big SS TriClamp inline filters: Wort Strainers from Brewers Hardware

 

[JAReeves]

I hop commando as well, but I have a HopStopper 2.0 in the bottom of the kettle. It has successfully strained out 1# of hops I did for a mid-1800's British IPA recipe.

 

[DonT]

I have a HopStopper 2.0 in the bottom of the kettle.

That's what I use...

 

[shoengine]

I just throw my hop pellets in and leave them. I have constant recirculation and an oversized 'pillow-filter' on the diptube (a sheet of 420 mesh folded and sewn to about a 10" square with some SS wire inside to prevent collapse and allow wort entry above and below)...never plugs. On the way to the fermenter I have one of those big SS TriClamp inline filters: Wort Strainers from Brewers Hardware

I just picked one of those up. How do you like it?

 

[Broken Crow]

I've only used it a handful of times so far before going on brewing-hiatus (to build a more accomodating brew-rig), but it's a peramant piece that I will never part with it... I Love it! Like I mentioned above, I have an oversized filter on the diptube and though the ebay seller of the mesh called it '420' it seems more like 380-ish compared to the actual 400 mesh filter net I bought from Filter Net for 3" OD Body Strainer After my wort leaves my keggle, it goes through a CFC (which drops from boil to pitching temp in one pass) with a 3/8" center, then to the pump, which is just the modest MP-15RM mounted at a level right between the bottom of the keggle and the top of the CFC, then into the filter which I mounted with a jury-rigged bracket on a microphone stand then right into the fermenter. All but one were 6.5G batches which experienced no slow-down at all... with the one 12G batch I used it on, it did slow down a bit towards the end. It catches the cold-break and most of the hop-silt that has made it out the keggle filter. I get significantly less and cleaner trub in bottom of my fermenter.