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Weldless Triclover Element?

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I think any access to a TIG welder would be able to fab something up even nicer than what I'm offering to begin with using raw materials. Another option is to go back to the larger sized canister that I originally supplied with the RIMS kits. Those would have more room but the overall package is larger than I liked.

I think I understand wanting an electrical disconnect at the element for when the element is installed with a locknut and gasket, but when you're using the triclover, you can just unclamp and remove the element and bring the pot over to your cleanup area. I can see having a pigtail hanging off the element as a minor inconvenience but it sure beats having it connected to the pot full time.

Good points. The pigtail might be the best way to go for a tri-clover setup.
 
This turned out to be a longer video than I planned, but I didn't want to make too many time warp cuts and lose some details.
http://youtu.be/_NkHlDql8EU

At the end of the video you said you cleaned it up with a polishing wheel, can you show us what you used? This is the way im going for sure!

Edit: Never mind, reading further it says what you used :)
 
Yes, just like that only I mount mine on a grinder. It doesn't take a lot to clean up the discoloration from heat and flux. Now, if you're really sloppy with the solder and it runs all over, that would be a bit more challenging. You'd probably want to use those 3M or "Gatorgrit" finishing pads to remove the stray solder. If you do it just like I showed in the video, that shouldn't be an issue.
 
I finally got around to drilling things out and soldering on the fitting.

I have to say that I'm very happy with the results. It was my first time soldering and after watching bobby's video, everything went smoothly.

Thanks goes to Bobby for both designing this and documenting the whole process. Very Awesome!

IMG_20131110_171048.jpg
 
On HBT I always see people saying you need TIG to do nice stainless welds; I have a good friend saying he can weld stainless with his MIG perfectly fine. Is he possibly telling the truth or should I just solder it in?
 
With stainless wire and the right gas mix (tri-mix or 100% co2 or a couple others depending on a few factors) you can weld stainless with a mig. Might get a lot of warping and possibly even a leaky weld if you don't know what you're doing or have the right set up for the steel. Even if you know what you're doing you'd have to clamp the hell out of the spud to keep the metal from warping.
 
Hey Bobby quick ? Everyone seems to be installing the tc fittings on thinner ss pots will these work on keggle or would the gap be too large to fill.

Thanks Paul
 
The solder bungs are machined for a 16" diameter pot. That's pretty much perfect for a keggle. I'll be doing mine on my keggle this week!
 
The only other variable in a keg is that the wall also curves towards the bottom but this can be managed. Just slide the flange around and watch for an increasing gap as you get lower towards the skirt weld. Clamp as shown in the video to reduce the largest gaps before soldering.
 
Bobby_M et al,
I watched the video. It is likely that I will simply get the weldless fitting for my 7.5 gallon SS kettle. There's a coolness factor to having a TC fitting - and, most of all, having soldered it myself. Perhaps, when I get my 15 gallon kettle, I could try soldering on the cheap kettle first.

You mentioned using MAP gas in your video. I looked at Home Depot online and found the following items. Is this what I would need to get (apart from the solder + flux kit)?

Bernzomatic TS8000KC Premium Torch Kit with MAP-Pro Fuel for $49.97
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-TS8000KC-Premium-Torch-Kit-331044/203371801#

Or for about half the price, get the following 2 items separately.

Bernzomatic WT2301 Self Igniting Basic Torch Head for $13.97
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WT2301-Self-Igniting-Basic-Torch-Head-334496/202539575#

Bernzomatic 14.1oz Map-Pro Cylinder for $9.35
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-14-1-oz-Map-Pro-Cylinder-332477/203226566#

I think you had mentioned that the Map gas was not as hot as the propane - I don't remember exactly what you said. What concerned me was that the torch in the kit said "high intensity".

Thanks,
Keith
 
Map is definitely hotter than propane. For your first rodeo, I suggest using propane as it will just take a little longer to get everything hot. You don't need the $49 kit, just get the WT2301 and a blue propane bottle. Here's the bad news.. I'm out of stock on the solder ferrules. I feel terrible to say that given your tough decision to try soldering. They will be back in stock Jan 10th.
 
I am having problems with the triclover part breaking off the can, one broke so bobby sent me a couple new ones but I broke a second. Tried silver soldering one back together but that didn't go so well. I also have one cap that is stripped and won't hold on the can, I don't seem to have luck with these sadly. ImageUploadedByHome Brew1405697407.254559.jpg


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Sadly, I have had the same experience with mine.
On the bright side, I was able to use regular lead/tin solder and acid flux to beef up the spot weld attachment points.

My contingency plan for the stripped threads on the can is to drill two or three small holes and secure the cap with a sheet metal screws. I grind off the sharp ends to keep from piercing any insulation inside.
 
Idea on these are great but for the money they should t have issues like this.


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The one pictured there is an older version that absolutely did have weld quality issues. I can tell because the welds are short, more like tack welds. The replacement ones or any of them that were purchased in the last few months have much more robust welds. ll. The new ones have five or six welds that are 1/4 and some are nearly 3/8" long. The issues with fit between the cap and canister are being watched more closely as they go out but one issue we've had is end users mixing and matching. We test the mated pairs but can't guarantee that all caps will fit all canisters so keep them mated pairs together.

I don't have any expectation that customers should have to fix any issues on their own. I support the products 100% at my cost. Don't hesitate to contact me if you have problems.
 
Yes you were very quick to send me replacements that's for sure, the new ones you sent did have more and larger welds, the second one that broke was a new one though sadly. I do have two that are not broken yet, I'll try soldering those ones before I use them.


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Ok those ones seemed to have soldered up nice, I'll give them a go.


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Will it work ok on my 17.75" diameter AIH 2 Weld 19 gallon SS Brew Pot? or would it be best to run it on my keggle? Going to be doing one up on the keggle and/or 9 gallon pot. I plan on using it with an element for electric. Any quick tips for success?
 

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