Night-Man said:How well does either the solder on and the weldless stand up to heat from a propane flame. I assume you don't want to subject the weldess to the open flame since it's not easily removable. But will the solder on with a blank triclamp attached hold up against a propane flame?
Technically the solder version is weld less also. At any rate, dams long as you have liquid in the vessel above the highest level of the fitting, heat from propane flame will not be an issue. Due to the thermodynamic and heat transfer properties (which I really don't want to get into here, just trust me) of the liquid (water or wort) will not let the temperature of the solder joint get any higher than about 210F which is WELL below the melting point of the solder. There are no worries here! Now, if you dry fire the kettle for long enough to heat the joint to the melting point of the solder, (which is around 600F? Correct me if I'm wrong here.) then you could easily weaken he joint or perhaps actually melt the joint apart. Just don't EVER dry fire your kettle and you'll be just fine.
passedpawn said:It's a port for an electric element. No propane flame is under the keggle.
[edit] Ah, I see you were responding to the post above yours. Carry on!
What about making the hole? Would a step drill be ok for the solder on? Or do I need to find a punch. Those seem to be expensive.
You mean for like drain bulkheads and such? Ehhh, I'm just not ready for stocking that many more TC parts, valves, etc...
I've been keeping up with the thread, but maybe I missed it... I have already installed my 2 elements in the "traditional" weldless manner - drill a hole big enough to fit the element in, throw your O-ring and washer on the inside - success. I want to transition over to this design so I can actually pull my element out from time to time to clean it more thoroughly. I have no clue how big the hole for the element is now, but are there any thoughts on whether it would work?
I've been keeping up with the thread, but maybe I missed it... I have already installed my 2 elements in the "traditional" weldless manner - drill a hole big enough to fit the element in, throw your O-ring and washer on the inside - success. I want to transition over to this design so I can actually pull my element out from time to time to clean it more thoroughly. I have no clue how big the hole for the element is now, but are there any thoughts on whether it would work?
is the weldless triclover going to be available ever? or anytime soon? Ill take 3-6 of them lol
is the weldless triclover going to be available ever? or anytime soon? Ill take 3-6 of them lol
That's pretty awesome! Now to get one with a Neutrik Powercon 32a quick disconnect on the end...
Done..
I had to drill out the back of the canister a tiny bit more to get the Powercon panel mount into the hole. With all the wiring hooked up, it's a pretty tight fit but I can verify that it fits. I had to be really picky with wire routing and I used the really flexible wires that you find in SOOW cord. Ring terminals crimped and soldered to the wire, etc...
The Switchcraft we've talked about is even easier as it's lower profile, but the build quality is night and day shoddy compared to Neutrik's version.
Done..
I had to drill out the back of the canister a tiny bit more to get the Powercon panel mount into the hole. With all the wiring hooked up, it's a pretty tight fit but I can verify that it fits. I had to be really picky with wire routing and I used the really flexible wires that you find in SOOW cord. Ring terminals crimped and soldered to the wire, etc...
The Switchcraft we've talked about is even easier as it's lower profile, but the build quality is night and day shoddy compared to Neutrik's version.
One crappy phone picture for now... You know, if the canister was just another 1/4" deep, it would even work to back mount the powercon flange for a cleaner look.
No, unfortunately deviation from existing tooling will drive the cost way up.
Perfectly understandable, although unfortunate indeed.
perhaps you could build some sort of spacer to extend the length of the housing to accommodate the back mounted thingymajig.
edit: im thinking someone with Tig welding could cut in half the section that the cord mounts to and add some length of stainless and tig weld it all back together.
-=Jason=-
I think any access to a TIG welder would be able to fab something up even nicer than what I'm offering to begin with using raw materials. Another option is to go back to the larger sized canister that I originally supplied with the RIMS kits. Those would have more room but the overall package is larger than I liked.
I think I understand wanting an electrical disconnect at the element for when the element is installed with a locknut and gasket, but when you're using the triclover, you can just unclamp and remove the element and bring the pot over to your cleanup area. I can see having a pigtail hanging off the element as a minor inconvenience but it sure beats having it connected to the pot full time.
This turned out to be a longer video than I planned, but I didn't want to make too many time warp cuts and lose some details.
http://youtu.be/_NkHlDql8EU
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