Turning your Fermonster into a complete closed transfer system for cheap!

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Knightshade

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Would it be possible to take hydro samples from the beer-post via the floating dip tube if you didn't have a spigot? Perhaps whack a party tap on it when I dispense a sample?

(BTW thanks for pointing me to the thread)
I did this last weekend before racking. With my FC being at floor level, utilizing the spigot to pull a sample was extremely cumbersome anyways. This hack makes it soooo much easier. Also allowed me to flush the line per se prior to racking. Hope you're not tired of hearing it @Dgallo Big Thanks!

Was wondering if anybody has utilized this setup to 'push' O2 into their wort via the dip tube? I'm starting to consider doing a RIS and this seems to be a requirement/highly recommended step during fermentation.
 

Noob_Brewer

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You could certainly do that, you’ll just have to hook it to the gas quick to pull the sample.
This is how Ive been doing it actually since my fermonters don't have spigots. If you have some sort of airlock hooked up to the gas post of the lid, I first attach the CO2 tank to the liquid side (switch to black QD first obviously) and blow out the tube that often has a little yeast/debris settled into it. Then I add the CO2 tank to the gas post of the lid and put some nominal pressure in the fermonster and the liquid comes out of the liquid dip tube post quite easily. Has worked like a charm for me.
 

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What do y’all do when you have a blowoff situation that sends Krausen and beer into the keg of starsan? I assume there’s residue of beer/foam inside the keg even though all of the liquid is blown into the bucket now. Would you continue as-planned and just transfer into the keg, or open, lose your natural co2, clean, and re-co2 the keg before transfer?
 
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Dgallo

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What do y’all do when you have a blowoff situation that sends Krausen and beer into the keg of starsan? I assume there’s residue of beer/foam inside the keg even though all of the liquid is blown into the bucket now. Would you continue as-planned and just transfer into the keg, or open, lose your natural co2, clean, and re-co2 the keg before transfer?
I personally wouldn’t do anything unless your willing to startsan and re purge the keg. In the future this is a nifty little cap for a mason jar so you’re able to capture the yeast from the blow off prior to going to the keg Ultimate CO2 Harvester Cap with PRV. NorCal Brewing Solutions
 

Amadeo38

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I personally wouldn’t do anything unless your willing to startsan and re purge the keg. In the future this is a nifty little cap for a mason jar so you’re able to capture the yeast from the blow off prior to going to the keg Ultimate CO2 Harvester Cap with PRV. NorCal Brewing Solutions
That was my inkling too - just rack it but wanted to see if anyone had done this with ill-effects. I’d have used a blowoff first if I anticipated this happening, but I rarely have blowoffs.
 
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Dgallo

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That was my inkling too - just rack it but wanted to see if anyone had done this with ill-effects. I’d have used a blowoff first if I anticipated this happening, but I rarely have blowoffs.
The only yeast that does that too me is LAIII. It’s happened 3 times now. First time I just went ahead and racked. Second time I took off the keg. Cleaned it and full purged again using my bottled co2. I really didn’t notice any difference between the two—Granted not much actually stayed in the keg. Most of it got diluted and pushed out with the starsan.
 

Amadeo38

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The only yeast that does that too me is LAIII. It’s happened 3 times now. First time I just went ahead and racked. Second time I took off the keg. Cleaned it and full purged again using my bottled co2. I really didn’t notice any difference between the two—Granted not much actually stayed in the keg. Most of it got diluted and pushed out with the starsan.
That’s what I was hoping to hear - thanks a bunch!
 

postlapsaria

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I fear I'm missing something obvious, but what do you do with this system during fermentation? Do you hook up a blowoff somehow?
 
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Dgallo

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I fear I'm missing something obvious, but what do you do with this system during fermentation? Do you hook up a blowoff somehow?
Exactly. Most of us are hooking from fermenter > starsan filled keg > to a bucket. This way blow off from ferm purges the serving keg with co2, and then sterilizer is now in the bucket and it becomes an airlock.
 

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The only yeast that does that too me is LAIII. It’s happened 3 times now. First time I just went ahead and racked. Second time I took off the keg. Cleaned it and full purged again using my bottled co2. I really didn’t notice any difference between the two—Granted not much actually stayed in the keg. Most of it got diluted and pushed out with the starsan.
Just curious as I haven't used LAIII or Imperials version (Juice?) yet myself. But for these yeasts that are active like this, do you still use the same lid with ball locks? Ive worried once or twice on a couple of brews with A24 that the ball lock might get clogged. I typically have a tad over 6g in the fermonster once I add the starter. Just curious.
 

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I fear I'm missing something obvious, but what do you do with this system during fermentation? Do you hook up a blowoff somehow?
I do what @Dgallo does IF I have a keg not in use in the keezer. I have 6 taps and 6 kegs lol. If I don't have a keg ready to be purged through fermentation, I simply hook a short tube from the gas ball lock into a mason jar. Simple as that.
 
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Dgallo

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Just curious as I haven't used LAIII or Imperials version (Juice?) yet myself. But for these yeasts that are active like this, do you still use the same lid with ball locks? Ive worried once or twice on a couple of brews with A24 that the ball lock might get clogged. I typically have a tad over 6g in the fermonster once I add the starter. Just curious.
Funny you say this. This past fermentation I used a different set up during the first 3 days of ferm and the switched to the ball lock cap after it slowed enough where I was confident there would be no issue.

so it’s still the same idea but using a blow off tube and an inverted bung. So I took a hose and put a co2 balllock in it and then I ran the hose through a bung upside down. I then placed the bung inverted into the traditional cap. This way any krausen wouldnt go through the ball lock and possibly clog it and I can still capture co2 during fermentation to purge.

9F0CC3D7-A124-4DDA-93FD-165C93AC29E8.jpeg
0318B0B8-CA58-4608-A6E6-A6E13590587B.jpeg

(the o-ring is in pbw at the moment)
 

Noob_Brewer

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Funny you say this. This past fermentation I used a different set up during the first 3 days of ferm and the switched to the ball lock cap after it slowed enough where I was confident there would be no issue.

so it’s still the same idea but using a blow off tube and an inverted bung. So I took a hose and put a co2 balllock in it and then I ran the hose through a bung upside down. I then placed the bung inverted into the traditional cap. This way any krausen wouldnt go through the ball lock and possibly clog it and I can still capture co2 during fermentation to purge.

View attachment 708321View attachment 708322
(the o-ring is in pbw at the moment)
Yeah I’ve thought about doing this but didn’t think that krausen going into the keg would be a good thing so I just used a blowoff hose with the original lid into a mason jar for first 3ish days before the lid swap. I also need another keg so that I can purge with fermentation more often when the others are in keezer lol.
 

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I did this last weekend before racking. With my FC being at floor level, utilizing the spigot to pull a sample was extremely cumbersome anyways. This hack makes it soooo much easier. Also allowed me to flush the line per se prior to racking. Hope you're not tired of hearing it @Dgallo Big Thanks!

Was wondering if anybody has utilized this setup to 'push' O2 into their wort via the dip tube? I'm starting to consider doing a RIS and this seems to be a requirement/highly recommended step during fermentation.
Knightshade, the only issue I see is we are using a floating DT, so it wont get to the bottom and make bubbles. A diffuser stone used for fish tanks on a on tube to get down the the bottom of the Fermenter is what some folks use. I have never O2'd my wort other than shaking or using a paint mixer on a drill with no ill effects. :mug:
 

Knightshade

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I just came across this pic a little bit ago..had kinda forgotten about it. Figured I'd post it up here as it shows a couple different things being talked about in this thread.

I was transferring from Fermonster to keg and as you can see...there is a second one behind the one presently hooked up. At any rate..I'm sitting there..watching this thing move beer over to the keg..and listening to the gentle hiss of CO2 leaving the automatic stopper thing hooked up to the gas post on the 1st keg. Which got me to thinking...I've got these other two kegs prepped for a purge.....that I can't do do right now because my CO2 is being used by the Fermonster. I wonder if I can kill 2 birds w/1 stone? Daisy chained those suckers and it started pushing away..was kinda happy I was able to not 'waste' as much CO2

F29535B6-E79A-4BAD-80C8-4D590CB6487D.jpeg
 

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I’ve read an article once that stated that fermentation creates enough co2 to air exchange 5-6 kegs. In the future you could always piggyback 2 kegs to you fermenter. Once the sterilizer goes into the second keg, you can pressurize the first one, turn it upside down for an hour or so and then while upside down pull the prv to remove any remaining liquid in the keg. Then you can open it and toss in your dryhop charge and then reconnect it to the fermenter. This way the remaining fermentation will purge the keg.

when all said and done, you’ll have a purged dryhop keg and a purged serving keg for later
I've been attempting methods of using the fermentation CO2 to purge my kegs and your description is just about what I did this time for the first time. It worked well for sure; however I had a coupe questions about this method.

1) when you pop the keg to quickly add your dry hops don't you negate all of the purging you just did as the oxygen will start mixing within the keg instantly?

2) How do you prevent the loss of aromatics? In my recent batch I added the dry hops on day 2 to the keg to purge using a spunding valve. But throughout the whole fermenting process for 6-7 days those hops were sitting at 65F with all the aromatics blowing out of the spunding valve.

My next time I was going to attempt your method, but instead of adding the dry hops to the hopping keg first, instead soft crash and transfer the un-hopped beer to the hopping keg, then add hops quickly and purge the much smaller headspace with bottled CO2. That way the hops can go from freezer to beer immediately.
 
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Dgallo

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1) I do not dryhop in the keg, I dryhop in the fermenter (I was responding to someone’s question who does dryhop in the keg). So when I am unscrewing the cap I will run the gas (same idea could work for a corny). I will keep it running until I finishes dryhoping and the lid is back on. The idea is that the gas running will push co2 out of the fermenter and prevent air from entering. Yes, there is a chance for o2 still getting in, however it is very small amount, that it has not become a problem. Certainly does not negate what you’ve done.

2) I do not dryhop during fermentation, so I do not run into this issue personally
 

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So, it finally happened....got a clogged SS ball lock connection at about 26hrs post pitch. Never have I seen this active of a fermentation with A24 (second generation due to overbuilding yeast starter, didn't harvest from previous fermenter). I caught it before it went boom though. Just checked in on the fermentation and noticed no bubbling at all. The fermonster was starting to bulge and it was tight as hell including a little bulge on the lid. So I swapped it out in makeshift fashion. Luckily I had a few spare bungs to use with the original lid with bung hole. Now - for those who have done this, how soon should I attempt to replace the modified lid back to the ball locks? Don't want to wait too long and want to swap it during active fermentation so fermentation can purge the headspace. Thoughts? FWIW, I have a belgian dubbel in the fermenter right now and started fermentation with the original lid but with a true 1" hose (glad I did this because those belgian top cropper yeasts are beasts). But Ive never had this happen with A24. When I took the ball lock lid off, I removed the ball lock from the lid and put a gas QD on it and under the faucet and the clog was quickly removed with just water pressure. SO it wasn't clogged that bad but enough to create a time bomb.

pic of setup now after debombing it. lol

EDIT: just went to check again, and distinctly heard the bung shoot out as the hose wasn't allowing to relieve pressure enough lol. So went with my 1" blowoff setup after sanitizing it. free flowing krausen now lol. Still scratching my head on how active this brew is
 

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Jayjay1976

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IME, brews that include some proportion of candy sugars, dark or light, tend to ferment violently vs. all-malt grain bills.
 

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thats just it. This one in particular has no candi sugars or even dextrose. Its a NEIPA: 2 row, GP, oats, wheat and thats it. perhaps is second generation yeast? Not sure how much truth there is to that but Ive used second generation before and didn't look like this. My belgian dubbel that finished fermenting a few days ago was a beast (candi syrup and turbinado sugar and WYEAST 3787) so I expected that. But not for this NEIPA.
 

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How do you like that bow tie spunding valve? I’m interested in getting one but wondering what your experience has been. I’ve heard some mixed reviews
I quite like mine, haven’t had any issues with it. I have the newer one with the built in little psi gauge as opposed to the older model shown above. It’s fine control means you can use it for some odd non-standard tasks (i’m all about the hacks and MacGyvers). Example, need to supply a very fine amount of co2 but your regulator doesn’t go low enough? Put the blowtie between regulator and vessel sat to the same psi as your regulator, then just lower the bowtie by a small amount to get a small steady flow of gas. Don’t have a cold crash guardian? Pressurize a small pop bottle and connect it to gas in on your fermenter with blowtie inbetween dialed in to slightly higher psi than your bottle is pressurized to. Release small amounts of gas into fermenter as it chills to combat negative pressure. I also bought one of the new duotight regulators but when I bought it they were out of the ones with the osi gauge. Not an issue though as i go main regulator to duotight regulator to blowtie. I crank the bowtie down crank duotight regulator down and open my main regulator to 5 pai or so more than I want to set duotight regulator to. I then start opening up the duotight regulator until the pressure reading on the blowtie matches what I want the regulator set at. Since it stays closed while the pressure builds, the only gas I waste while getting the regulator set is what has accumulated in the short runs of tubing between the three devices, very economical!
 
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Dgallo

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I quite like mine, haven’t had any issues with it. I have the newer one with the built in little psi gauge as opposed to the older model shown above. It’s fine control means you can use it for some odd non-standard tasks (i’m all about the hacks and MacGyvers). Example, need to supply a very fine amount of co2 but your regulator doesn’t go low enough? Put the blowtie between regulator and vessel sat to the same psi as your regulator, then just lower the bowtie by a small amount to get a small steady flow of gas. Don’t have a cold crash guardian? Pressurize a small pop bottle and connect it to gas in on your fermenter with blowtie inbetween dialed in to slightly higher psi than your bottle is pressurized to. Release small amounts of gas into fermenter as it chills to combat negative pressure. I also bought one of the new duotight regulators but when I bought it they were out of the ones with the osi gauge. Not an issue though as i go main regulator to duotight regulator to blowtie. I crank the bowtie down crank duotight regulator down and open my main regulator to 5 pai or so more than I want to set duotight regulator to. I then start opening up the duotight regulator until the pressure reading on the blowtie matches what I want the regulator set at. Since it stays closed while the pressure builds, the only gas I waste while getting the regulator set is what has accumulated in the short runs of tubing between the three devices, very economical!
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated
 

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How do you like that bow tie spunding valve? I’m interested in getting one but wondering what your experience has been. I’ve heard some mixed reviews
It settled in and worked pretty accurately 24 hours after pitching the yeast. It held 12 psi for ~72 hours and then started losing pressure as fermentation subsided. I double-checked the fermenter and everything was airtight, the issue ended up being the duotight "T" fitting with the pressure gauge. I removed the pressure gauge and just have the QD and the blowtie valve and the pressure has kept perfectly. I think it's around 10 psi because that's what it last was and the fermenter hasn't lost any tension but I have no way to check until I keg the beer.
 

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It settled in and worked pretty accurately 24 hours after pitching the yeast. It held 12 psi for ~72 hours and then started losing pressure as fermentation subsided. I double-checked the fermenter and everything was airtight, the issue ended up being the duotight "T" fitting with the pressure gauge. I removed the pressure gauge and just have the QD and the blowtie valve and the pressure has kept perfectly. I think it's around 10 psi because that's what it last was and the fermenter hasn't lost any tension but I have no way to check until I keg the beer.
It’s perfectly normal to see pressure drop as fermentation starts to wrap up. As the beer stops producing copious amounts of co2 it starts to absorb co2 from the headspace instead of releasing co2 which causes the pressure drop. Temps also drop as fermentation abates and temperature reductions also lower internal pressure as cold crashing clearly demonstrate.
 

Docod44

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Which Fermonster model are you using? Looks like the 3 gallons one, or am I mistaken?
Yes, this is the 3 gallon. I usually aim for 2.6 - 2.75 gallons into my 3 gallon keg after fermentation and it's nice to find that the pressure keeps the krausen down.
 

Knightshade

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What is everybody doing to ensure that they don't end up clogged come transfer to keg day? I've had 2 instances....including today, where for some unknown reason, I only get about 25% in before the transfer just...stops.

I did transfer a little bit of crap from brew day, but the whirl floc usually takes care of that and puts it down at the bottom. I can't get a great whirlpool collection in the middle of my kettle due to utilizing an Anvil Foundry? Or maybe I just suck at it, haven't had much success.
I did have a 2 oz dry hop for this particular batch, probably a larger amount for the other batch mentioned.

I did a 3 day staged cold crash, ultimately getting down to 35 F.
Seal is great, holds plenty of CO2
I check the transfer tube....nope, not the problem. No clogs.
I'm looking..looking in the fermonster...looks like the line is clear, the end is submerged into beer, not in some layer of gunk...WTF

I ultimately end up giving up..on both today's and previous occurrence and switch out the lid with a new floating dip tube. Finishes out no problem..but all that effort to keep out O2 and then...just...argh.

Afterwards...I check everything to see how 'well' liquid runs through the lines..and it seems to be fine. I take apart the liquid ball lock from the lid, and there are a couple of pieces (2), but nothing to indicate a clog.

So...WTH am I missing..or doing differently..I just don't get it.
 
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Dgallo

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What is everybody doing to ensure that they don't end up clogged come transfer to keg day? I've had 2 instances....including today, where for some unknown reason, I only get about 25% in before the transfer just...stops.

I did transfer a little bit of crap from brew day, but the whirl floc usually takes care of that and puts it down at the bottom. I can't get a great whirlpool collection in the middle of my kettle due to utilizing an Anvil Foundry? Or maybe I just suck at it, haven't had much success.
I did have a 2 oz dry hop for this particular batch, probably a larger amount for the other batch mentioned.

I did a 3 day staged cold crash, ultimately getting down to 35 F.
Seal is great, holds plenty of CO2
I check the transfer tube....nope, not the problem. No clogs.
I'm looking..looking in the fermonster...looks like the line is clear, the end is submerged into beer, not in some layer of gunk...WTF

I ultimately end up giving up..on both today's and previous occurrence and switch out the lid with a new floating dip tube. Finishes out no problem..but all that effort to keep out O2 and then...just...argh.

Afterwards...I check everything to see how 'well' liquid runs through the lines..and it seems to be fine. I take apart the liquid ball lock from the lid, and there are a couple of pieces (2), but nothing to indicate a clog.

So...WTH am I missing..or doing differently..I just don't get it.
Do you have the prv opened or a way to let air escape your keg while the beer is entering?

are you working with or against gravity on the transfer ?
 

Knightshade

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So on this last transfer...air wasn't escaping at all and was building up in the fermonster itself. I had a duo tight stupid person beer catcher attached to it, there is a pic of it up above in post 175. I disconnected that, just to make sure that wasn't the issue and opened the PRV, same no joy.


Transfer tube was flowing..but when it all stopped, it just kinda emptied out on either end. So I'm assuming that the tubing in the fermonster itself was causing the problem, but not sure how to go about avoiding it in the first place?

I'm kind of working against gravity a little bit...keg and fermonster are basically on the same level of the garage, so the beer does have to flow up the fermonster tubing and across to the keg.
 

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Transfer tube was flowing..but when it all stopped, it just kinda emptied out on either end. So I'm assuming that the tubing in the fermonster itself was causing the problem, but not sure how to go about avoiding it in the first place?

I'm kind of working against gravity a little bit...keg and fermonster are basically on the same level of the garage, so the beer does have to flow up the fermonster tubing and across to the keg.
That loss of transfer followed by the tubing emptying out, sounds more like losing prime or pressure. If there's not enough pressure it just stalls but the tubing should remain full.

The siphon function helps the transfer in the beginning, until the beer level in the keg becomes level with that in the fermonster. Then it's all pressure that needs to do the work transferring the beer uphill, while the column of beer in the keg is pushing down on it.
IOW, the pressure applied needs to push the beer up, against gravity, and will do so as long as the pressure force overcomes that of gravity of all beer involved. You may not have enough pressure to overcome that.
 

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I went the easy route and use a "temp control loop" from ball and keg. Skipping the floating dip tub and just use the spigot to a liquid DC after a cold crash. Before transfer I fill the hydrometer tube which clears anything that settled in the spigot. Used on every brew since October 2019 and the only problem was when I forgot to hook up the gas line to the keg. It blew the bung up but with all the lines attached it landed safely back in the hole.
20210224_104159.jpg
 
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Knightshade

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That loss of transfer followed by the tubing emptying out, sounds more like losing prime or pressure. If there's not enough pressure it just stalls but the tubing should remain full.

The siphon function helps the transfer in the beginning, until the beer level in the keg becomes level with that in the fermonster. Then it's all pressure that needs to do the work transferring the beer uphill, while the column of beer in the keg is pushing down on it.
IOW, the pressure applied needs to push the beer up, against gravity, and will do so as long as the pressure force overcomes that of gravity of all beer involved. You may not have enough pressure to overcome that.
Hmm...something to consider..but how much isn't enough pressure? I noticed that the lid was starting to not look so flat, and the walls of the fermonster itself were getting fairly rigid with the thumb pushing check. (Fairly common method used to check ball pressure, soccer, basketballs, etc.) I was perhaps pushing 5'ish PSI into it via the regulator reading?

When I finally gave up and decided the hell with it, I'm just going to switch the damn lid and its associated tubing, I placed an empty gas ball lock and there was a significant release of pressure...as in it seemed that more than 1 second went by and it was still expelling co2.
 

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Hmm...something to consider..but how much isn't enough pressure? I noticed that the lid was starting to not look so flat, and the walls of the fermonster itself were getting fairly rigid with the thumb pushing check. (Fairly common method used to check ball pressure, soccer, basketballs, etc.) I was perhaps pushing 5'ish PSI into it via the regulator reading?

When I finally gave up and decided the hell with it, I'm just going to switch the damn lid and its associated tubing, I placed an empty gas ball lock and there was a significant release of pressure...as in it seemed that more than 1 second went by and it was still expelling co2.
5 psi may or may not be enough. Those Fermonsters are really not designed for much pressure, be careful! That lid or a piece of it blowing in your face can cause serious injury, even at 5 psi, there's a lot of gas in there!

The idea of these transfers is to apply just enough CO2 pressure to start the siphon, then gravity does the actual transfer (through the siphon action), while you keep the headspace filled with CO2 instead of it filling with air.

Once it starts bulging but there is no transfer it's either too heavy to push or there's a clog somewhere.

When liquid pre-purging kegs I transfer the Starsan in a similar way as you do with your beer, from the full keg into an open bucket or another keg, everything placed on the floor. There's no siphon taking place at all that way, the CO2 pressure just pushes out the Starsan. That's usually at 12 psi, but I reduce it to 4-6 psi toward the end. Same when "jumping" a keg of beer after lagering or cold crashing.

I'd test it out by using the exact same setup, but doing a transfer with water or Starsan so you can "clearly" see what's happening.
 

Knightshade

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5 psi may or may not be enough. Those Fermonsters are really not designed for much pressure, be careful! That lid or a piece of it blowing in your face can cause serious injury, even at 5 psi, there's a lot of gas in there!

The idea of these transfers is to apply just enough CO2 pressure to start the siphon, then gravity does the actual transfer (through the siphon action), while you keep the headspace filled with CO2 instead of it filling with air.

Once it starts bulging but there is no transfer it's either too heavy to push or there's a clog somewhere.

When liquid pre-purging kegs I transfer the Starsan in a similar way as you do with your beer, from the full keg into an open bucket or another keg, everything placed on the floor. There's no siphon taking place at all that way, the CO2 pressure just pushes out the Starsan. That's usually at 12 psi, but I reduce it to 4-6 psi toward the end. Same when "jumping" a keg of beer after lagering or cold crashing.

I'd test it out by using the exact same setup, but doing a transfer with water or Starsan so you can "clearly" see what's happening.
That was my exact thought as I was releasing pressure...."I'm surprised that this thing didn't blow up in my face...yikes."

Yeah..and that transfer of beer that I had in the previous post...it went beautifully..no issues. Both that have given me grief have been an IPA and this PA, both of which were dry hopped. So I thought maybe I was just missing something. I suppose I could lift up the fermonster up onto the cabinet, but with all the jostling that I'm sure to introduce in doing so, it could potentially kill off the benefit of cold crashing in the first place...

I'll try the star san thing..thats a good idea...I've got a keg full of it right now anyways. and maybe I'll stand off to the side a bit..with safety goggles on...
 

Elric

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I suppose I could lift up the fermonster up onto the cabinet, but with all the jostling that I'm sure to introduce in doing so, it could potentially kill off the benefit of cold crashing in the first place...
I always move my fermenters after cold crashing. As long as you go carefully it shouldn’t really have a negative impact. A good cold crash will compact your trub nicely and it will take a good shake to stir it back up
 

ddrum2000

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So I might have missed this earlier...

I would like to to a pressurized fermentation with the Fermonster as described above. I'm not looking to go above 7 psi or so. A few questions:
  1. Would a ported version be a bad idea since there is another place for a leak to occur?
  2. Is there a female fitting for the PRV? I have some low pressure ones that vent at about 7 psi.
  3. How would you compare this method using the Fermonster/the Fermzilla flat bottom/Spiedel plastic/Fast ferment? I would like to fit this in my mini fridge kegerator for cold crash.
Thanks.
 
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