Turning your Fermonster into a complete closed transfer system for cheap!

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Wasn’t sure since it was your first time every dryhoping. I didn’t know your level of experience, so I just wanted to help if possible. Sorry for the redundancy
There's only so much *completely* purge of oxygen I can do without a brink to inject my hops into the keg I'm dry hopping in.

I had that one, with my empty hops tube, filled with Star San, then used fermentation CO2 to push the Star San from that keg into another one.

I've just drained the dregs out of my dry hopping corny, opened it, added my hops to the tube, closed the keg, and it's on 30 psi from my tank.

Let it get to 30 psi stable (it's ganged to another keg that has a digital pressure gauge on it), then burped it down to 10psi, and it's refilling now.

I'd have worse exposure than that if I were bottling it.
 
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There's only so much *completely* purge of oxygen I can do without a brink to inject my hops into the keg I'm dry hopping in.

I had that one, with my empty hops tube, filled with star san, then used fermentation CO2 to push the start San from that keg into another one.

I've just drained the dregs out of my dryhopping corny, opened it, added my hops to the tube, closed the keg, and it's on 30 psi from my tank.

Let it get to 30 psi stable (it's ganged to another keg that has a digital pressure gauge on it), then burped it down to 10psi, and it's refilling now.

I'd have worse exposure than that if I were bottling it.
I’ve read an article once that stated that fermentation creates enough co2 to air exchange 5-6 kegs. In the future you could always piggyback 2 kegs to you fermenter. Once the sterilizer goes into the second keg, you can pressurize the first one, turn it upside down for an hour or so and then while upside down pull the prv to remove any remaining liquid in the keg. Then you can open it and toss in your dryhop charge and then reconnect it to the fermenter. This way the remaining fermentation will purge the keg.

when all said and done, you’ll have a purged dryhop keg and a purged serving keg for later
 
yeah I was pretty surprised how quickly it moved 5 gal of starsan and how much bubbling out of blowoff still went on after. I need to get myself a spunding valve and figure some ways to not let it all go to waste. I guess I may be the sucker who tries spunding on the fermonster haha
 
yeah I was pretty surprised how quickly it moved 5 gal of starsan and how much bubbling out of blowoff still went on after. I need to get myself a spunding valve and figure some ways to not let it all go to waste. I guess I may be the sucker who tries spunding on the fermonster haha
Well you can always transfer with some points left or you can do the same that I just suggested for dryhoping with priming sugar or dme, so when you transfer into that keg, it will then naturally carb
 
Does anyone know where to get a 3-4 inch diptube? The ones I bought are the same length as the bulkhead posts and i cant connect the floaty to it. Everything I see when looking are the same ones I already bought. :no:
 
Does anyone know where to get a 3-4 inch diptube? The ones I bought are the same length as the bulkhead posts and i cant connect the floaty to it. Everything I see when looking are the same ones I already bought. :no:
Do you have a pipe cuter? Then you can cut it yourself or you could use tubbing or cbds
 
Do you have a pipe cuter? Then you can cut it yourself or you could use tubbing or cbds
I'm pretty sure that's the 2nd or 3rd time I've seen CBDS on here, but I have no clue what that means. Google is no help, apparently it's either the stock symbol for some cannabis company, or Connectionless Broadband Data Service (amongst a few other acronyms that also don't make any sense)
 
I'm pretty sure that's the 2nd or 3rd time I've seen CBDS on here, but I have no clue what that means. Google is no help, apparently it's either the stock symbol for some cannabis company, or Connectionless Broadband Data Service (amongst a few other acronyms that also don't make any sense)
http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com/
there ya go!
 
Do you have a pipe cuter? Then you can cut it yourself or you could use tubbing or cbds
Thanks for the reply. So, I'd rather not cut the original dip tube for my kegs. One of the floaties I bought from More Beer had one in it, but the other didnt. Also the CBDS website shows it attached to a small one. I'm going to have to play with it this weekend and see what I can do. Funny, but I didn't know what CBDS meant either. RS, thanks for asking and Elric, thanks for providing the link. :mug:
 
I am about to try this closed transfer for the first time here shortly but a bit different as I only received my floating diptube kits a few days ago and my pale ale has been in the fermonster for 3.5 weeks with regular lid.
I had to open lid to bag the dry hops and then take out so I expect some 02. Trying to improve it.
I am going to put the modified lid on.....QUICKLY and give the pressure transfer a try to the keg.

Dgallo was giving me some good info to get rolling. I will say I had a hell of a time getting the small tubing on the posts for the diptubes even when heating with boiling water.

Not ideal for full closed transfer due to my beer long done prior to me building these kits but worth the efforts.
Thanks all.
 
Thanks for the reply. So, I'd rather not cut the original dip tube for my kegs. One of the floaties I bought from More Beer had one in it, but the other didnt. Also the CBDS website shows it attached to a small one. I'm going to have to play with it this weekend and see what I can do. Funny, but I didn't know what CBDS meant either. RS, thanks for asking and Elric, thanks for providing the link. :mug:

Oddly enough..I had the same kinda question. I ordered similar bulkheads to the ones you referenced on Amazon, I think on page 3. I returned those because I couldn't find a nut to screw onto the bottom of those. That was after visiting Home Depot and a smaller specialty hardware store. Then I ordered the Fermonster pressure kit from morebeer. So now I have a lid I'll never use, yet another silicon line and floating ball, but I've also got 2 bulkheads with what I'm going to consider proper mounting bolts and..a pre-cut dip tube that is longer than the standard one that I'm positive you're referring to.

I used a multi step drill bit and went a trigger too big so..1 lid down. I'm just going to buy the damn 7/16" bit at Home Depot this weekend and try again.
 
Two questions I was hoping someone has solved prior to me:

1. Can you buy just the tubing for the dip tube somewhere?

2. Those of us using the CO2 to purge a keg of Star San, have you had issues getting the lid on that keg to seal well? It's such a low amount of pressure that I've had one that didn't seal well. I just sealed and purged with more CO2 after the fact, but just wondering if there's any tricks anyone has used.
 
Two questions I was hoping someone has solved prior to me:

1. Can you buy just the tubing for the dip tube somewhere?

2. Those of us using the CO2 to purge a keg of Star San, have you had issues getting the lid on that keg to seal well? It's such a low amount of pressure that I've had one that didn't seal well. I just sealed and purged with more CO2 after the fact, but just wondering if there's any tricks anyone has used.
1) yes. It’s 1/4 id silicone tubing https://www.amazon.com/s?k=1/4+id+s..._11136138&tag=hydsma-20&ref=pd_sl_2t55bhl6xt_

2) I use the weight of the keg to help me seal it and then invert to to make sure it holds before connecting line
 

Sweet, thanks for the link!

As for the second answer, I'm not sure what you mean. You mean like the weight of the water/Star San in the keg?
 
Sweet, thanks for the link!

As for the second answer, I'm not sure what you mean. You mean like the weight of the water/Star San in the keg?
make sure your oring is still good and use a little keg lube for it, that maybe some of the cause because the keg should hold the seal without pressure.

what I do to make sure my seal is good is will put the lid on once it’s full with solution and pick up the keg with the lid handle. That way the weight of the keg and solution helps secure the lid properly and then I’ll lock it. If I can turn it upside with out any leaks I know I’m good
 
make sure your oring is still good and use a little keg lube for it, that maybe some of the cause because the keg should hold the seal without pressure.

what I do to make sure my seal is good is will put the lid on once it’s full with solution and pick up the keg with the lid handle. That way the weight of the keg and solution helps secure the lid properly and then I’ll lock it. If I can turn it upside with out any leaks I know I’m good

Yeah, some kegs are just stubborn, though.

That's a good tip - picking it up be the handle - I'll give that a try.

Thanks again!
 
I FINALLY got this figured out this past Saturday..and only managed destroy 1 lid.

Friday evening drilled new holes, then I put the o-rings on the underside of the lid, figuring if I had a good seal there I'd be good. Filled, seemed like it was good...came back in the morning and nope. Filled again..did the squirt bottle test, placed the o-rings on the top of the lid, good to go.

Cleaned it again, sanitized and I've got a cider bubbling away like crazy less than 24 hours later. In a...wth not lets do another new thing, I hooked up a new cold crash guardian to it too and that filled up super quick.
 
Quick question about transferring into the purged keg. When the beer is transferring into the keg, should I leave the PRV open? Keep it closed? Or just occasionally release the pressure? Thanks!
 
Quick question about transferring into the purged keg. When the beer is transferring into the keg, should I leave the PRV open? Keep it closed? Or just occasionally release the pressure? Thanks!
I keep it open personally but either way will work. The latter will just be slightly slower
 
Quick question about transferring into the purged keg. When the beer is transferring into the keg, should I leave the PRV open? Keep it closed? Or just occasionally release the pressure? Thanks!

If you keep the keg closed, it won't fill. If you close it while filling is in process, the flow will stop. I use a spunding valve on the gas post too allow gas out, but not in. If I didn't have that, I'd open the PRV.
 
If you keep the keg closed, it won't fill. If you close it while filling is in process, the flow will stop. I use a spunding valve on the gas post too allow gas out, but not in. If I didn't have that, I'd open the PRV.
The fermenter will be pressurized so it will still fill until equilibrium is reached so you can certainly pull the prv sporadically and keep a flow going
 
The fermenter will be pressurized so it will still fill until equilibrium is reached so you can certainly pull the prv sporadically and keep a flow going

If you can pull the PRV sporadically without the flow ever stopping, that's some pretty skillful timing!
 
I'll just keep it open :) I don't have a spunding valve (or know what it really even is) and this will be my first closed transfer so I'd like as few hiccups/variables/things to think about along the way
 
If you can pull the PRV sporadically without the flow ever stopping, that's some pretty skillful timing!
Fermonsters are clear so you can visually see the flow slow down so it’s not excessively hard
 
I've just connected the gas post on the keg to a container filled with starsan (the same one I've used for blow-off during fermentation).. might be overkill but at least I know no air is getting in/mixed with the co2.
 
It’s extremely simple and makes a huge difference in beer quality. I’m not very mechanically incline but this is literally just drilling a hole and being able to tighten screws and nuts

So I transferred my 5th batch last night using my modified Fermonster and absolutely love it. So simple and works great! The other batches, I just removed the float and tube and left the cap assembled for cleaning. I soak in OxyClean and hot water which seemed good enough since it was getting inside the posts and out. This time I wanted to completely disassemble everything, but could not get the posts apart. I put a wrench on the nut inside the cap and another on the post, but it only loosened the nut, not the post. The bottom of the post is round, so no way to grab it with a wrench. I have a vise and vise grips, but don't want to tear the metal up. Any suggestions or just leave it alone?
 
Quick question about transferring into the purged keg. When the beer is transferring into the keg, should I leave the PRV open? Keep it closed? Or just occasionally release the pressure? Thanks!
I use a gas disconnect with vinyl tubing as a blowoff tube for my Fermonster. When transferring to the keg, I attached the blowoff tube to the gas post on my keg, and put the vinly tube into a jar of StarSan. No need to open the PRV. Works well and prevents overfilling the keg.
 
So I transferred my 5th batch last night using my modified Fermonster and absolutely love it. So simple and works great! The other batches, I just removed the float and tube and left the cap assembled for cleaning. I soak in OxyClean and hot water which seemed good enough since it was getting inside the posts and out. This time I wanted to completely disassemble everything, but could not get the posts apart. I put a wrench on the nut inside the cap and another on the post, but it only loosened the nut, not the post. The bottom of the post is round, so no way to grab it with a wrench. I have a vise and vise grips, but don't want to tear the metal up. Any suggestions or just leave it alone?

I've done this w/other posts and it seems to work pretty well? I'll usually run through this cycle a couple times, then take them apart every once in awhile for a more thorough cleaning?

I use a bug sprayer that I've got a carbonation cap on, fill that up with cleaner. I then use a small piece of tubing that has a gas post on one end, and liquid post on the other. Carbonation cap will fit on either, so you're good there. Attach, clean, switch, clean, attach, rinse, switch, rinse.

Usually let them air dry too, so then I'll just attach a ball lock to allow a little more air to flow through end to end.
 
I've done this w/other posts and it seems to work pretty well? I'll usually run through this cycle a couple times, then take them apart every once in awhile for a more thorough cleaning?

I use a bug sprayer that I've got a carbonation cap on, fill t
I've done this w/other posts and it seems to work pretty well? I'll usually run through this cycle a couple times, then take them apart every once in awhile for a more thorough cleaning?

I use a bug sprayer that I've got a carbonation cap on, fill that up with cleaner. I then use a small piece of tubing that has a gas post on one end, and liquid post on the other. Carbonation cap will fit on either, so you're good there. Attach, clean, switch, clean, attach, rinse, switch, rinse.

Usually let them air dry too, so then I'll just attach a ball lock to allow a little more air to flow through end to end.
I can give that a try, I've got the sprayer and carb cap. I really wanted to find a way to take it apart though. Thanks.
 
I was able to get mine apart too. Utilize a set of pliers on the round part, crescent wrench on the post. Trick is to find a crappy set of pliers (read, w/thin grippers) that won't grip both the round part and the nut on the post. Would be nicer if they just utilized nuts on both.
 
I was able to get mine apart too. Utilize a set of pliers on the round part, crescent wrench on the post. Trick is to find a crappy set of pliers (read, w/thin grippers) that won't grip both the round part and the nut on the post. Would be nicer if they just utilized nuts on both.
Nuts on both would be ideal. I think I'll leave it be and just use the pump sprayer as you suggested. I don't want to rip up the metal. Thanks!
 
I just wanna say that I’ve got two different lids that I use on both my 7 gallon and 3 gallon fermonsters. This is a wonderful system for reducing cold side oxygen. Not to mention it doesn’t break the bank! Thanks for the idea @Dgallo!
 
Nuts on both would be ideal. I think I'll leave it be and just use the pump sprayer as you suggested. I don't want to rip up the metal. Thanks!

Wanted to follow up on this. I racked 2 batches to keg yesterday and both liquid tubes looked kinda major yuck. Recalling this thread, I decided to give take the posts apart a whirl. Take into account both of these held pressure. Probably more than I had planned at one point.

At any rate, I held the underside nut with my fingers and fit a crescent wrench to the post and they gave way. They don’t “need” to be super tight.
 
Wanted to follow up on this. I racked 2 batches to keg yesterday and both liquid tubes looked kinda major yuck. Recalling this thread, I decided to give take the posts apart a whirl. Take into account both of these held pressure. Probably more than I had planned at one point.

At any rate, I held the underside nut with my fingers and fit a crescent wrench to the post and they gave way. They don’t “need” to be super tight.
I read your post and gave it another shot and I got them off. The gasket on my gas dip tube is really messed up so I'm going to replace it. The dip tube going up the post was not what I expected to find, but it works. Thanks!
 
It held water at 15 but I when dryhoping I’m around 4/5psi and transfer at just around 10psi

you can certainly get the nonported fermonster and it will save you about 5 dollars but then when you’ll have difficulties taking gravity samples and keeping o2 out.

spunding would work too as long as you are experience transferring carbonated beer.

Would it be possible to take hydro samples from the beer-post via the floating dip tube if you didn't have a spigot? Perhaps whack a party tap on it when I dispense a sample?

(BTW thanks for pointing me to the thread)
 
Would it be possible to take hydro samples from the beer-post via the floating dip tube if you didn't have a spigot? Perhaps whack a party tap on it when I dispense a sample?

(BTW thanks for pointing me to the thread)
You could certainly do that, you’ll just have to hook it to the gas quick to pull the sample.
 

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