Double IPA Tomorrowland (a NEIPA experience)

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Redtab78

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2016
Messages
888
Reaction score
375
Location
Lost at sea
Recipe Type
All Grain
Yeast
Wy1318
Yeast Starter
Yes
Batch Size (Gallons)
5
Original Gravity
1.075
Final Gravity
1.012
Boiling Time (Minutes)
75
IBU
57
Color
5.9
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
8
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
None
Additional Fermentation
None
Its not often i post my recipies as i find that not many are really worth it, but since i have made quite a vast amount of NEIPA, i have nailed down what i find an amazing combination using a simple ingredient list without too complex of a process.

The average time from grain to glass is 9 days. Explained below.

GRAIN BILL:
Base:
12# pale malt (i like Skagit Valley Talisman pale, it has some MO/golden promise flavor but cheaper)
.25# honey malt (just to provide a slight sweetness to compliment the hops and give a jucier flavor)
.25# carapils (helps with head retention)

Additional choose 1 or the other just to get some protein mouth feel, i like oats but both are very good:
1# flaked oats (use rice hulls if using oats to help with draining mash tun more evenly)
OR
1# white wheat

Thats it, 13.5# grain bill, my notes of others tasting this side by side with the oats vs wheat tells me tht not to many can tell a difference between the 2, but i perfer the mouthfeel of the oats, it feels creamier to me. THESE ADDITIONS ARE NOT TO ADD HAZE, THEY ARE THERE FOR FEEL. The haze comes from the dry hopping times as a by product.

MASH:
i mash at 149, simple single infusion, nothing fancy or complicated. I have tried a drier 146, and a sweeter 154 and i feel as tho 149 is just a perfect balance to get the hops and malt to play off eachother without overdoing one or the other.

HOPS:
1oz magnum FWH (i add these to my boil kettle and then start my lauter on top of them to steep until im at full boil volume which for me is 8gal)

1oz galaxy at flameout and then start cooling to 160

Once your down to 160 stop the chiller and add

1.5oz galaxy
1oz mosaic

Stir every 2 min or whirlpool, and let steep for 20 min

Dry hops are: (added between 24-36 hours after pitch)

2.5 oz citra
1.5 oz mosaic
2 oz azacca

I have used many different combos as a dry hop, but i really like how the fruitiness of azacca plays with the berry flavor of mosaic and citrus flavor of the citra. I have used galaxy, idaho 7, vic secret, amarillo, cascade, medusa, el dorado and a few others, but i really like the galaxy in the whirlpool and azacca as a dry hop....it just works great! I have also tried the citra/mosaic/azacca in a lower quantity, but it just wasnt enough to me.

YEAST AND FERMENTATION:

I like wy1318, i have used the yeast bays Vermont ale, wy1968, so4, wlp002, and i really like 1318 the best.
I ferment at 68F, and dry hop the day after i brew. I let it go for 7 days, and check but am always down to 1.010 at day 7, then i turn temp down to 45. The next day on day 8, i keg and pressureize to 35psi and purge 3 times, then pressurize again to 35 and shake/roll the keg for a few min, i then purge again and pressurize to 12psi to sit for 24 hours.
Day 9 i am drinking


Water:

I use 100% RO water and build to a very specific profile which is:

95ppm calcium
12ppm magnesium
30ppm sodium
80ppm sulfate
175ppm chloride

My process to get to this is adding the following straight into the mash as i am dding in the grain:
4.24g calcium chloride
1.41g epsom salt
1.26g gypsum
1.11 canning salt (pure NaCl)

As the mash is going, i add the following to the sparge water and stir to disolve before i start the sparging:
6.21g calcium chloride
2.07g epsome salt
1.85g gypsum
1.63g canning salt (pure NaCl)

I have also done a lower ration of sulfate to chloride with a 90 sulfate to 110 chloride, which isnt bad, but tasted alot more bitter and i like the hop flavor without the back end bitterness bite.

NOTES:

I have done 60 min boils, 75 min boils and 90 min boils. I particularly perfer the 75 min boil, but this can be done with a 60 min boil. The ibu numbers will be slightly different but it would not be noticeable, and you would need to adjust the salts as you would be using less water throughout the whole process and i can gi e you the adjusted amounts if you want it.


Enjoy!
 
Here is a pic of the dry hop, trying to show the before and after along with what the krausen looks like when I do it.
CCF7CB23-38C9-4122-84A2-10B5FDD9B754.jpeg
4214E91B-A1C3-4F9A-B309-089D3572CE87.jpeg
2FD1C2F8-6313-4F66-90D8-F9957186EFB1.jpeg
.
 
This looks and sounds pretty good! I've been trying to get away from hops (been drinking more IPAs than water for like the last 6 years :/ ) but I need a good NEIPA on tap to offset my winter brews and could definitely use a fast turnaround beer to get me to stop buying beer again! Any pics of the finished product?

I've never done the 'roll/shake' carb method and am a little apprehensive. Have you ever had an issue with over-carbing using the method you described above? Thanks in advance and cheers!
 
No, no over carbing as long as you purge after the forced at 35.

Here is a pic of one that I was trying to brighten the orange with a little cara60, the orange never came through right without changing the flavor so I omitted it from the recipe. I will have an updated pic here in another few days without that so u can see exact color.

But they all look darn near identical to this:



0B68CBBB-BC7B-4373-8A09-BDA1D98F8F3E.jpeg
 
Looked so good, I had to run out to the LHBS and get the ingredients. Brewing it right now!

photo.jpg


Scaled the recipe up to my system, and had to sub the Galaxy for Citra, but I’m not too bummed. LHBS was totally out of Galaxy, otherwise I’d have stuck with the recipe. Also trying out Imperial Yeast’s A38 “Juice” strain for the ferment, but that’s basically just a clone of London III.

I’ll let you know how it turns out!
 
Awsome, i am fully confident this will easily compare to the other half, trillium and many others out there. Did u go with the oast or the white wheat?
 
Thanks for the post Red! I've thrown away SO many high hopped IPAs/NEIPAs due to post fermentation diacetyl that I never got to the point where I COULD work on recipes. Hoping the Fermentasaurous rig will belp. I'm surprised by the high chloride content as I try to stick below 120 or so. But if your not getting off flavors..proof is in the pudding. @afro_lou...love to hear your results sir!
 
Thanks for posting, haven't tried a NEIPA yet, I like your method, I'm going to brew it and substitute oat malt for the flaked oats.
 
Great post. Ive been working on water additions, so coming across this now is great timing! I usually treat my mash very similarly, but I haven't treated my sparge water. What benefits do you find from adding minerals to the sparge?
Im also interested in your getting progress. I just had a batch get O2'd due to a bad seal on my keg, now I have a muddy mess instead of my beautiful hoppy goodness!
 
Curious as to how many ibu are from the magnum vs the flameout
 
Wise man! Although you wouldn’t go wrong either way, but I def like the oat mouthfeel with the higher chloride it so smooth and silky feeling

Oh hey! Quick clarification question, what’s your actual batch size? I realized that when I built it in BeerSmith originally, I had it as a 5 gal batch. My OG ended up at 1.062, and I don’t think I boiled off anywhere near what I expected. Either way, I think this is gonna turn out great! Getting ready to add the dryhop now. [emoji16]
 
Great post. Ive been working on water additions, so coming across this now is great timing! I usually treat my mash very similarly, but I haven't treated my sparge water. What benefits do you find from adding minerals to the sparge?
Im also interested in your getting progress. I just had a batch get O2'd due to a bad seal on my keg, now I have a muddy mess instead of my beautiful hoppy goodness!

for the first part of your question, When I build my recipie in BS3 the program automatically seperates the mash additions from the sparge additions, but so does all the other programs out there (bru'n water, etc). I am not a water expert, but I could see how adding all the salts into the mash at the same time can/will effect the conversion. So to get to a specific profile, you need to treat all of the water. I treat 100% of the water like what is needed, but I treat it as 2 seperate waters so to speak with one being the strike water and one being the sparge water. For the second part, I am not quite sure what you mean by "I'm also interesting in your getting progress".

Curious as to how many ibu are from the magnum vs the flameout

if I had to split based off % I would say that 90% of the IBU comes from the FWH, 10% from the flame out, and 0% from the whirlpool. I can get you the exact IBU numbers this afternoon when I get home from each and I'll post it on here.

Oh hey! Quick clarification question, what’s your actual batch size? I realized that when I built it in BeerSmith originally, I had it as a 5 gal batch. My OG ended up at 1.062, and I don’t think I boiled off anywhere near what I expected. Either way, I think this is gonna turn out great! Getting ready to add the dryhop now. [emoji16]

When I brew this I get exactly 5.2g into fermentor, but the finished boil quantity is more like 5.7. I know I always leave 1/2gal behind in the kettle, so I try and build everything for a "5.5" gallon batch in BS3 to get to my numbers. I dont BIAB, I use an SS Infusion mash tun, my starting og is 1.059-1.062(ish) and my OG after boil off ranges from 1.068-1.077. I use a refractometer for all measurments except the final OG which I use a hydrometer to pull a sample as i am draining into my fermenter. My avg mash effeciency is close to 95% (most days), but I have messed up a time or 2 and ended down around 70% with a 1.065 starting OG (depending on my crush and whether I hit my temps just right, but mostly if people are over watching and distracting me) which yeilded me a lower ABV. BUT I didnt notice that much of a difference of a ~1% abv change. The finished flavor is such that on the higher side of a starting 1.075 yeilding the 8.25% the finished beer is not "hot" at all, and on the lower side with a starting of 1.065-1.068 there is still enough ABV there to know it is not an all day drinker.

The good thing about this recipie is in the end is such a simple and versatile base, you can up the base malt some or lower it and not change anything else (to tune it for your system and efficiency) and still get the same exact flavor, where as in other recipes if you change the quantity of the base, then the specialties effect the finished flavor somewhat. This PRIMARILY taste of pale malt with very subtle hints of the honey and the creaminess of the protien based (oats/white wheat). You will love it, I promise!! :)
 
Great post. Ive been working on water additions, so coming across this now is great timing! I usually treat my mash very similarly, but I haven't treated my sparge water. What benefits do you find from adding minerals to the sparge?
Im also interested in your getting progress. I just had a batch get O2'd due to a bad seal on my keg, now I have a muddy mess instead of my beautiful hoppy goodness!
Lol. Sorry. That should be kegging process, not getting process.
 
Yes, vic secret, amarillo and el dorado works....or you could always order some galaxy online, there are alot of people offeri g early cy er monday sales right now that you may be able to get some fairly cheap sent to u.
 
vic secret is the "closest" so ive heard.

Yes, I have read that when developing vic secret, galaxy was a parent plant so to speak. and from my experiance it is very similar, just not quite as intense, and has some subtle differences but to the untrained taste buds with a good recipie, I hardly doubt a single person could taste 2 identical grain bills and one having Vic Secret with the other having the samy as galaxy and tell anyone which is which
 
unfortunately, still pretty expensive. last i checked there wasnt much of a premium for galaxy vs vic secret, just a question of availability
 
Sure, but not really what my point was, just saying if its there on the shelf go with the galaxy, obviously.

Pretty much ch anything is better than paying retail or special release prices
 
D0029AC4-082F-4F18-8B11-243B7CCAAC07.jpeg
Kegging the batch from above. I’ll carb this and have it ready in a few hours for some guest tonight
 
If I were to brew this in a biab method what would be the difference in salt additions assuming I start with 8 gallons of ro water? Would I just add all the salts added up into the mash?

Thanks
Neil
 
To be 100% honest, i have no experiance at all with biab, but @afro_lou uses that method as shown above, so perhaps he can chime in to assist on that.
 
Last edited:
This looks and sounds pretty good! I've been trying to get away from hops (been drinking more IPAs than water for like the last 6 years :/ ) but I need a good NEIPA on tap to offset my winter brews and could definitely use a fast turnaround beer to get me to stop buying beer again! Any pics of the finished product?

I've never done the 'roll/shake' carb method and am a little apprehensive. Have you ever had an issue with over-carbing using the method you described above? Thanks in advance and cheers!
As you can see from my pics , no issues just don’t let it sit at 35psi too long after rolling
Thanks for posting, haven't tried a NEIPA yet, I like your method, I'm going to brew it and substitute oat malt for the flaked oats.

Did you brew it?
 
If I were to brew this in a biab method what would be the difference in salt additions assuming I start with 8 gallons of ro water? Would I just add all the salts added up into the mash?

Thanks
Neil

I had very different mineral additions than @Redtab78 did, but luckily he included the PPMs of his target water. My batch was 11 gallons, BIAB, so I ended up with 17.79g CaCl, 5.94g Epsom Salt, 5.31g Gypsum, 4.67g Salt (I used non-iodized sea salt), 0.06g Baking Soda (tough measurement, so I just sprinkled a bit in there) for my 17.25 gallons of RO starting water. These obviously won’t be the same as your additions, but just a baseline for comparison. If you have Bru’n’Water, BeerSmith (or most any brewing software) you should be able to punch in the total water amount and desired water profile and it’ll tell you exactly how much of each to add.

A quick scaling of my BIAB version of the recipe with 8 gallons of RO shows additions of:
8.09g CaCl
2.70g Epsom Salt
2.41g Gypsum
2.12g Salt
0.03g Baking Soda
YMMV, though, so double check with your equipment profile if possible.
 
I need to do 10 gallon batches... my keg only lasted 2 days..I just went and checked to make sure it wasn’t a dream and sure enough it’s kicked

Guess the porter I had planned will wait and I’ll be busy today again

So I guess that’s the bad thing about this beer....there isn’t enough of it
 
This looks really good. My schedule is set for the next couple of weeks but after that I'm doing this one. I have a pound of azacca and was trying to think of something to do with it. Perfect! Thanks for sharing!
 
I need to do 10 gallon batches... my keg only lasted 2 days..I just went and checked to make sure it wasn’t a dream and sure enough it’s kicked

Guess the porter I had planned will wait and I’ll be busy today again

So I guess that’s the bad thing about this beer....there isn’t enough of it

5 gal in 2 days!! You are doing some serious drinking sir!
 
Back
Top