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Thrifty RIMS canister from Nor Cal Brewing Solutions

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Talked to the guys at Auber today. They suggested

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=44

As as more ROBUST solution. I have to tell you though I am SUPER happy with the system we are running right now with the $60 PID. Seems to be kicking butt and doing exactly what we tell it to. It's a tad slow for the 8-9+ gallons of water we were playing with but man for a 5 gallon system running 110VAC I am tickled.

Cheers
Jay
 
Talked to the guys at Auber today. They suggested

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=44

As as more ROBUST solution. I have to tell you though I am SUPER happy with the system we are running right now with the $60 PID. Seems to be kicking butt and doing exactly what we tell it to. It's a tad slow for the 8-9+ gallons of water we were playing with but man for a 5 gallon system running 110VAC I am tickled.

Cheers
Jay

Thanks for your help with my decision Jay (sticking with the economic version). I'm excited, my wife thinks I'm insane as this is all I talk about.
 
Ok Jay, I am ready to order parts of this. I need the element, controller and 2" TC cap with 1.25" hole. How do I get it done?
 
Talked to the guys at Auber today. They suggested

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=44

As as more ROBUST solution. I have to tell you though I am SUPER happy with the system we are running right now with the $60 PID. Seems to be kicking butt and doing exactly what we tell it to. It's a tad slow for the 8-9+ gallons of water we were playing with but man for a 5 gallon system running 110VAC I am tickled.

Cheers
Jay

There is an error in the posted wattages on the morebeer site for the element, have you determined what the wattage is for that unit? I email morebeer but have heard back from them.

Also what is the diameter of the element?
 
There is an error in the posted wattages on the morebeer site for the element, have you determined what the wattage is for that unit? I email morebeer but have heard back from them.

Also what is the diameter of the element?


I'll clamp it tomorrow at full load and see what the current is. That will tell us a lot.

Cheers
Jay
 
I'll clamp it tomorrow at full load and see what the current is. That will tell us a lot.

Cheers
Jay

Got a response from morebeer, they say it is only 550W at 110V. They also said they would have a higher wattage one in a couple months.

I guess if it gets the job done that is what matters. I am sure it will work for maintaining mash temp but I am more interested in using the RIMS for step mashing. What sort of times you getting for the 5gal tests, do think it will preform the same with grain in the mashtun?
 
Got a response from morebeer, they say it is only 550W at 110V. They also said they would have a higher wattage one in a couple months.

I guess if it gets the job done that is what matters. I am sure it will work for maintaining mash temp but I am more interested in using the RIMS for step mashing. What sort of times you getting for the 5gal tests, do think it will preform the same with grain in the mashtun?

From their website. The reason I bought them. 1100 Watts at 110 VAC

I will be doing a full load test later today. Its been SUPER SLAMMED in the store so as soon as it slows down I will blast back to the testing shop and check it out.


A powerful, 304 stainless steel heating element well suited for most kettles. With its weldless design and a diameter of 1 1/4" it's easy to install. Install by simply drilling a 1.25" hole in your kettle and tightening the nut from the outside. The heating element requires a power cord which can be purchased separately (Cable is a computer power cord - IEC320 C13 to nema 5-15P). 11.5" Long

Features:

Dual Power Output - Feed 110v power for 1100w, or 220v power for 2200 watts! (IEC Female socket can be hooked up to 110 or 220 v)
Food grade, high temperature silicone seal
The element itself is 11.5 in long, 0.75 in. Diameter.

If it is only 550 I would be super surprised.

Cheers
Jay
 
I sent you a PM with the email text.

I was thinking from your numbers it was 1100W too as it does not seem like 550W would do that kind of heating, but the fact is doubling the voltage will increase power by 4 if the element is a passive element. If it is 1100Ws then 220 will give 4400Ws not 2200W.
 
No, but they said they expect to get a higher wattage one in a few months.

I am new to RIMS stuff but if the unit functions "as is" then maybe 1100 is not that important.
 
No, but they said they expect to get a higher wattage one in a few months.

I am new to RIMS stuff but if the unit functions "as is" then maybe 1100 is not that important.

Me too, the reason I am picking this solution is the all-in one package convenient.

I'm sure this will work. Btw I bought this pump. Keeping it cheap :D.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Did you ever run the test?



From their website. The reason I bought them. 1100 Watts at 110 VAC

I will be doing a full load test later today. Its been SUPER SLAMMED in the store so as soon as it slows down I will blast back to the testing shop and check it out.


A powerful, 304 stainless steel heating element well suited for most kettles. With its weldless design and a diameter of 1 1/4" it's easy to install. Install by simply drilling a 1.25" hole in your kettle and tightening the nut from the outside. The heating element requires a power cord which can be purchased separately (Cable is a computer power cord - IEC320 C13 to nema 5-15P). 11.5" Long

Features:

Dual Power Output - Feed 110v power for 1100w, or 220v power for 2200 watts! (IEC Female socket can be hooked up to 110 or 220 v)
Food grade, high temperature silicone seal
The element itself is 11.5 in long, 0.75 in. Diameter.

If it is only 550 I would be super surprised.

Cheers
Jay
 
Sorry guys with holiday and the mad scramble of the store the last several days I have not had a chance to look at all the requests. A lot of these will be answered today.

Again guys sorry for the delay

Cheers
Jay
 
(R) = 12.3
(I) = 9.7
(V) = 120
(P) = 1171

There it is gents
Measured using my Fluke 87

Came in at almost 1200 watts at 120VAC

Cheers
Jay
Well it looks like the information I go from morebeer was wrong, sorry for any confusion I may of caused.

When I seen the listed power numbers only doubled between 120 and 220 one of those could not be right. Good to hear the 120 power was correct.
 
Well it looks like the information I go from morebeer was wrong, sorry for any confusion I may of caused.

When I seen the listed power numbers only doubled between 120 and 220 one of those could not be right. Good to hear the 120 power was correct.

I have a buddy with a 240v plug in his garage. I'll see if I can pull some numbers in the future.
 
Woohoo! Just got my shipping notice today and it'll arrive in plenty of time for me to install before my next brew.
 
It was mentioned in another thread so Id figure I would ask here. Doesnt that controller use mechanical relays? if so you know it wont last long in a fast switching high load application like this before the contacts either burn or fuse shut right? or does it have the SSR relays designed for this type or use? if your hearing clicking while using thats a mechanical relay and it wont last long.
 
It was mentioned in another thread so Id figure I would ask here. Doesnt that controller use mechanical relays? if so you know it wont last long in a fast switching high load application like this before the contacts either burn or fuse shut right? or does it have the SSR relays designed for this type or use? if your hearing clicking while using thats a mechanical relay and it wont last long.

This is a mechanical relay. Very similar to the one I have been using on my HLT for the last 10+ years. Now I am not saying this is the best possible PID system for this long term application. There are others available from Auber that are about $150 that do use an SSR. Auber sells this as a Sous Vide cooking PID.

Cheers
Jay
 
This is a mechanical relay. Very similar to the one I have been using on my HLT for the last 10+ years. Now I am not saying this is the best possible PID system for this long term application. There are others available from Auber that are about $150 that do use an SSR. Auber sells this as a Sous Vide cooking PID.

Cheers
Jay
Jay the difference here is an element does not have to turn off and on anywhere near as quickly as it would in a rims configuration when you're trying to maintain a single temperature with liquid that's continuously flowing by the sensor it's just not a fair comparison.
 
Apparently I have lost the ability to edit a message but what I was trying to say is the switch for your hot liquor tank does not turn on and off anywhere near as quickly as it will be required to any rims configuration and I believe that's going to make a big difference in the life of the relay
 
I am ready to pull the trigger on this RIMS system. I plan on buying the upgraded PID controller recommended by Auber earlier in this thread.

I want to use the system for step mashing, and am wondering if this is undersized for what I want to do.

I brew 10 gallon batches with two 10 gallon igloo coolers and a 15 gallon kettle. I do all my mash/ sparge water heating in the kettle.

Average batch, I am mashing with 5 to 6 gallons of water.

I have downloaded the electric-heat.xls file and ran the numbers on a step mash. It appears that I should be able to ramp temps @ <1 min/ degree, depending on the actual efficiency I'll end up with.

To me, this seems to be adequate. Anything I'm missing?
 
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