Thrifty RIMS canister from Nor Cal Brewing Solutions

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woo_pig

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So we had a HICKUP with our vendor but we have that resolved now and have some of the elements on the way. Should be here mid next week!

Cheers
Jay
Let me know when you get it all straight. Hope the price dosnt change.
 

JDXX1971

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I am ready to order this minus the controller Jay. Let me know when they come in!!!!!
 

Summers

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This thrifty RIMS kit is what I have been trying to build in my mind for the last few brews but this is far less cost then what I had planned in my head, I am going to keep watching the site for when they are back in stock.
 
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This thrifty RIMS kit is what I have been trying to build in my mind for the last few brews but this is far less cost then what I had planned in my head, I am going to keep watching the site for when they are back in stock.
They will be up tomorrow mid day.

Thanks for your patience you guys!

Cheers
Jay
 

JDXX1971

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I have my order all ready to go. Just waiting on the element. I am excited to finally be getting this thing set up!!
 

JDXX1971

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My Trifty RIMS arrived today!!!! Thank you @Jaybird , though you did forget my stickers:mad::mad: lol.

My mounting brackets fit perfectly and I have my plumbing about figured out.:confused::confused::D I have plans of adding a 10 gallon water cooler to catch hot water from my plate chiller. Then being able to use Thrifty for heating that water for the next batch while I boil. Think of all the possibility's.:rockin:

Now to order the parts for my controller. Thanks to @doug293cz for drawing the 120V 15A RIMS controller. Here is a link to it in case anyone is interested.https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7935106&postcount=31

So excited to see my system evolving!! I have plans for a few more additions then let the HHBIABR rip. Wort will be flying hahaha.:ban::ban::ban:

:mug::mug::mug::tank:
 

LBussy

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To any who have used this - can you get the flow down to a trickle and not worry about scorching?

What do you do to prevent firing a dry coil in the case of a stuck sparge?
 

drgonzo2k2

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I use the thrifty RIMS tube but with a William's Brewing 1500W heating element and a Brau-Supply 120V controller, so I don't know if this info helps or not; however, I brewed twice with my new rig this weekend.

I wouldn't exactly call it a trickle, but I didn't have any problems with scorched wort using a pretty low flow rate.

As far as preventing dry firing, I just made sure the re-circulation was going steady for a couple of minutes before I plugged in the heating element. I also use rice hulls in my mash. I figured once it was going steady it wasn't going to stop. Maybe a bad assumption?
 

woo_pig

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I just got mine in. It was the lastone they had. Took mine to my lhbs and the owner said it was very nice quality. Snd thats coming from a blichman user. I think he might be getting a few to sell.
 

LBussy

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I figured once it was going steady it wasn't going to stop. Maybe a bad assumption?
I don't know if it is or not. I know I have had otherwise good recirculation stop for whatever reason on occasion so I'd hate for that to happen when firing an electric element. I don't think it's practical to have a liquid sensor in a RIMS tube so I suppose the answer is to not run it unsupervised.
 

drgonzo2k2

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I don't know if it is or not. I know I have had otherwise good recirculation stop for whatever reason on occasion so I'd hate for that to happen when firing an electric element. I don't think it's practical to have a liquid sensor in a RIMS tube so I suppose the answer is to not run it unsupervised.
I guess one other thing to keep in mind is that I'm doing full volume mash, no-sparge brewing. So my water:grist ratios have been around 3 qt:1 lb, a pretty thin mash. I suppose that gives me less chance of having a stuck mash.

So far so good anyway (of course the brewing gods will curse me now).
 

woo_pig

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I don't know if it is or not. I know I have had otherwise good recirculation stop for whatever reason on occasion so I'd hate for that to happen when firing an electric element. I don't think it's practical to have a liquid sensor in a RIMS tube so I suppose the answer is to not run it unsupervised.
With the sensor on the output of the rims. If the flow stops the fluid it the tube will only get as hot as you set your pid. So if your pump shuts off or you get a stuck mash you should be ok. I actually had a conversation about that yesterday with my lhbs owner.
 

sd_brewbie

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Are these coming back in stock? Seriously considering adding a RIMS system to my mash tun.
 
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Are these coming back in stock? Seriously considering adding a RIMS system to my mash tun.
Its all in stock accept the little controller. So many were wanting to do their own thing on the PID side and I totally get that. Were not building a PID ourselves yet but you can get EVERYTHING else and then some on the hardware side.
Pm me if you need help putting it all together. I can even direct you as to where I was getting the controller.

Cheers
Jay
 

cod3ck

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Any ETA on the controller? This system looks super slick!!
 

cod3ck

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One other question --

For the heating element, the website mentions 110v or 220v near the top, but further down in the description it says "4,600 watts @ 240v" -- I'm guessing the 240v is a typo?

If not, where can I get my hands on a high voltage computer cable?! :ban:
 

woo_pig

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One other question --

For the heating element, the website mentions 110v or 220v near the top, but further down in the description it says "4,600 watts @ 240v" -- I'm guessing the 240v is a typo?

If not, where can I get my hands on a high voltage computer cable?! :ban:
The cable will work. The insulation on each wire has to be rated for 120. Most wire is rated for 600 volts. Electricity dosnt care what color the wire is.
 
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cod3ck

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The cable will work. The insulation on each wire has to be rated for 120. Most wire is rated for 600 volts. Electricity dosnt care what color the wire is.
...doesn't the gauge of the wire matter?

Also, can that element handle 240v or is 220v the max?
 

woo_pig

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...doesn't the gauge of the wire matter?

Also, can that element handle 240v or is 220v the max?
The gauge would be for a higher amp rating. If your volts is higher your amps will be lower. So you should be good. Ohms law.
 

cod3ck

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The gauge would be for a higher amp rating. If your volts is higher your amps will be lower. So you should be good. Ohms law.

240v outlets are 30amp... standard 120v is either 15 or 20amps..?

Edit: Sorry, just looked up 220v amp rating. Looks like most European 220v outlets are between 30-50amps, so I think you're right, if it can handle 220, it should be able to handle 240..?! [emoji482]
 

JDXX1971

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Add a duplex outlet, wire and connectors to this and you would have a nice controller. There are cheaper parts out there I am sure. Really, if you have a drill, a few bits, wire terminal tool and a screwdriver you can build this quick with Aubers enclosure. Putting it all together is actually pretty dang fun too!!!



Item Name Unit Total



LED Indicator, 22 mm, 120/240V
Item #: IND-1


  • Power Voltage Option - 120V AC/DC
  • LED Color Option - Green

$3.45 $3.45



40A SSR
Item #: MGR-1D4840

$15.50 $15.50



Selector Switch, 2-Position Maintained 2 NO, 22mm
Item #: SW4

$5.99 $11.98



EZboil, Power Regulator for Boiling Process Automation
Item #: DSPR120


  • Model Option - DSPR120

$46.95 $46.95



Contactor, 2 pole, 30/40 A, 120V Coil
Item #: CN-PBC302-120V

$12.59 $12.59



Wall Mount Box for Single Controller 10x8x6"
Item #: B252015


  • Hanger Option - Without Hanger
  • Heatsink Option - With 40A Heatsink (BHS40A)
  • Precut Option - With factory precut for 1 x 1/16 DIN controller

$60.00 $60.00



Liquid tight RTD sensor, 6 in, 1/2 NPT Thread
Item #: PT100-L1501/2NPT


  • Cable Option - Standard Teflon Cable (6 feet)

$34.35 $34.35 Sub-Total: $184.82
 

EarthwormJim

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...doesn't the gauge of the wire matter?

Also, can that element handle 240v or is 220v the max?
The gauge would be for a higher amp rating. If your volts is higher your amps will be lower. So you should be good. Ohms law.
The constant here is the resistance in the element. Current is voltage/resistance. If you double the voltage and the resistance stays the same, you are doubling the current. You said it was 4600 watts at 240 volts, that is about 20 amps. I would make sure the cable can handle that . If it is the cable that comes with the element, I would think it would be ok. If you are getting it some place else, I would check the current rating.
 

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