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Thrifty RIMS canister from Nor Cal Brewing Solutions

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Vandulus

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Woohoo! Just got my shipping notice today and it'll arrive in plenty of time for me to install before my next brew.
 

augiedoggy

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It was mentioned in another thread so Id figure I would ask here. Doesnt that controller use mechanical relays? if so you know it wont last long in a fast switching high load application like this before the contacts either burn or fuse shut right? or does it have the SSR relays designed for this type or use? if your hearing clicking while using thats a mechanical relay and it wont last long.
 
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Jaybird
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It was mentioned in another thread so Id figure I would ask here. Doesnt that controller use mechanical relays? if so you know it wont last long in a fast switching high load application like this before the contacts either burn or fuse shut right? or does it have the SSR relays designed for this type or use? if your hearing clicking while using thats a mechanical relay and it wont last long.
This is a mechanical relay. Very similar to the one I have been using on my HLT for the last 10+ years. Now I am not saying this is the best possible PID system for this long term application. There are others available from Auber that are about $150 that do use an SSR. Auber sells this as a Sous Vide cooking PID.

Cheers
Jay
 

augiedoggy

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This is a mechanical relay. Very similar to the one I have been using on my HLT for the last 10+ years. Now I am not saying this is the best possible PID system for this long term application. There are others available from Auber that are about $150 that do use an SSR. Auber sells this as a Sous Vide cooking PID.

Cheers
Jay
Jay the difference here is an element does not have to turn off and on anywhere near as quickly as it would in a rims configuration when you're trying to maintain a single temperature with liquid that's continuously flowing by the sensor it's just not a fair comparison.
 

augiedoggy

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Apparently I have lost the ability to edit a message but what I was trying to say is the switch for your hot liquor tank does not turn on and off anywhere near as quickly as it will be required to any rims configuration and I believe that's going to make a big difference in the life of the relay
 

Schreiner

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I am ready to pull the trigger on this RIMS system. I plan on buying the upgraded PID controller recommended by Auber earlier in this thread.

I want to use the system for step mashing, and am wondering if this is undersized for what I want to do.

I brew 10 gallon batches with two 10 gallon igloo coolers and a 15 gallon kettle. I do all my mash/ sparge water heating in the kettle.

Average batch, I am mashing with 5 to 6 gallons of water.

I have downloaded the electric-heat.xls file and ran the numbers on a step mash. It appears that I should be able to ramp temps @ <1 min/ degree, depending on the actual efficiency I'll end up with.

To me, this seems to be adequate. Anything I'm missing?
 

ba-brewer

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I have downloaded the electric-heat.xls file and ran the numbers on a step mash. It appears that I should be able to ramp temps @ <1 min/ degree, depending on the actual efficiency I'll end up with.
Is there a version of that file that has a step mash section or did you use the standard one? If so where did you find that spreadsheet?

What is the process to determine efficiency?
 

Schreiner

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Is there a version of that file that has a step mash section or did you use the standard one? If so where did you find that spreadsheet?

What is the process to determine efficiency?


I found the file here:

gnipsel.com/beer/software/calculators/electric-heat.xls

I was using the "Time to Temperature with Electric Heat" table. I have no guess as to what the efficiency should be set at for a RIMS setup like this.
 

ba-brewer

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I found the file here:

gnipsel.com/beer/software/calculators/electric-heat.xls

I was using the "Time to Temperature with Electric Heat" table. I have no guess as to what the efficiency should be set at for a RIMS setup like this.
Thanks for the link, I already found that one too,but did not see a step mashing section so was not sure.

I used Jay's numbers for 60 to 160 and 1100W and played with efficiency until the numbers matched. I got a value of 71% to do that in 2.5hr, seems like that would a reasonable starting point.
 

Vandulus

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I looked at a previous suggestion in the thread for a clamp, but don't think it'll work mounting to a 3/4" thick board. Does anyone else have suggestions for a removable clamp/bracket to hold this RIMS in place?
 

Toadies

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Packages received! Looks impressive, I'll be heading to lowes to work on building a rims stand.

What is the best way to clean this heating element? I was going to use TSP-PF on the rims tube then PBW, but not sure for the element?

Should I passivate the RIMS tube?
 
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Jaybird
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Packages received! Looks impressive, I'll be heading to lowes to work on building a rims stand.

What is the best way to clean this heating element? I was going to use TSP-PF on the rims tube then PBW, but not sure for the element?

Should I passivate the RIMS tube?
Heating element just clean with PBW is fine. YES passivate the RIMS tube. Star San at 2x will work very well for this.

Cheers
Jay
 

Toadies

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Hi Jay can you share what settings you used to test mash temps for 1 hour? Reading the manual and it's all pretty confusing.

Will auto tune set all the settings automagically?
 
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Jaybird
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Hi Jay can you share what settings you used to test mash temps for 1 hour? Reading the manual and it's all pretty confusing.

Will auto tune set all the settings automagically?
Auto tune should do all that for you. I just used manual setting on the PID set the temp I wanted sat back and watched it maintain.

Cheers
Jay
 

snackson

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Just ordered one last night while ordering other items. Did I need a RIMS tube? No, not really, but I am going to sell of my eHerms and figured this could come in handy at some point. Plus it's pretty darn hard to beat the price.

Editing this to add that I received it and it's a beauty. I am installing 1/2" NPTx1.5" triclover and connecting a filter directly to input to it, using a 2" element enclosure with https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016XMF0LW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and going to use a mypin PID I've had lying around. I'll post pics this week.
 
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Toadies

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Finally got the Thrifty RIMS tube installed and did my first water test. Using 2.5 gallons of water I got a 75* to 154* ramp up in around 40 minutes. It did start at 63*, but forgot to start the timer. I was getting about 2 degrees per minute increase.

The Autotune went really quickly, started the autotune process at 147* with a set value of 154*. After the autotune, the heater would turn on for 5 seconds, off for 13 seconds. I'm not sure how PID works, but is this what I should expect?

The pump I was using was a cheap 12v solar water heater pump and the flow was as slow as I could throttle it, without stopping the flow.

I also included a Belkin Switch between the PID controller and heater as a way to manually turn the heater off/on.

@Jaybird, the plug to the heater was pretty hot to touch (not as hot as the tube @ 150*), is this normal? The Belkin switch, PID Controller, or the cord itself was not hot.

93F6896D-F7A0-4360-824A-810BF8499DC6.jpg
 

liljohn

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If I want to upgrade the PID to one with an SSR what would you recommend?
 

TechyDork

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I bought this controller from Auber. Finally have the system together. Hopefully running some test trials tonight.
Which model did you go with? Are you using it for mash and boil control? I only ask because in my system I would want to use mine for PID mash temp control and then on manual for boil control in a eBIAB setup.
 

drgonzo2k2

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For those of you that wound up purchasing this tube could you let me know what you wound up using to mount it?

Any pics of how you have it setup would be greatly appreciated as well!
 

Vandulus

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For those of you that wound up purchasing this tube could you let me know what you wound up using to mount it?

Any pics of how you have it setup would be greatly appreciated as well!
After much debate, I ended up attaching the tube vertically to the pump via a 4 way stainless steel cross. I have the cross attached to the pump inlet (stainless steel head) where the RIMS is on the top, the thermowell on the left, the pump inlet on the right and a drain valve on the bottom. The pump is mounted on a wood platform which provides stability for it all.
 

Toadies

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I ended up buying the aluminum pipe clamps someone posted here earlier. I bolted it to a 1.25" square tube.

I posted a picture in previous page.
 

drgonzo2k2

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Thanks, everyone, for all the replies! Looks like, as is the case with most things in this hobby, there are lots of ways to skin this cat.

Currently my order of preference for mounting, mainly due to cost is:

1 - These U-bolts

2 - These clamps

3 - These other clamps

Currently my local Home Depot only has one of the u-bolts in stock, so hopefully they get more in soon!
 
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Schreiner

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What a killer set up! How is that PID controller working out?

Cheers
Jay
Thanks! It works fine. I bought a thermocouple for this set up too, and it was a pain to solder the mini RTD plug to it. Ended up bribing a friend who is a goldsmith to do that small work.
 
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