Thinking about going BIAB. Anyone one with regrets? Tips?

[Tarpon87]

@Tarpon87 is that homedepot bucket a screw on top? Air tight?

Was looking at getting a Vittles Vault to store grain, just wondering if it's worth the $35?

Yes, its called a Gamma lid, it has a snap on outer ring and the middle screws on. The lids are sold at home depot. Its the only one i have, i usually just get empty icing buckets from the grocery store bakery and use those, food grade buckets with lids and gaskets, and ive always gotten them for free.

 

[GoeHaarden]

Yes, its called a Gamma lid, it has a snap on outer ring and the middle screws on. The lids are sold at home depot. Its the only one i have, i usually just get empty icing buckets from the grocery store bakery and use those, food grade buckets with lids and gaskets, and ive always gotten them for free.

Cool. Thanks. I'm going to check them out and possibly go that route unless they're too steep. The galvinized steel trash can sounds good too. Honestly it's whatever cheaper at this point. Lol

 

[GoeHaarden]

Does everyone with a corona mill just set that thing as tight as it can go? Or what?

And how many of you all are sack squeezers?? Clarity isn't a big issue for me, I just don't want it gritty or anything...

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Does everyone with a corona mill just set that thing as tight as it can go? Or what?

And how many of you all are sack squeezers?? Clarity isn't a big issue for me, I just don't want it gritty or anything...

not me, hurts like a motherfckr

 

[wilserbrewer]

Does everyone with a corona mill just set that thing as tight as it can go? Or what?

And how many of you all are sack squeezers?? Clarity isn't a big issue for me, I just don't want it gritty or anything...

I would just tighten the mill until all kernels are well broken W/ none or very few whole kernels left. Think coarse corn meal consistency.

I’m not an advocate of squeezing, too much hassle for me. I prefer just to gravity drain for 20-30 minutes.

 

[GoeHaarden]

I would just tighten the mill until all kernels are well broken W/ none or very few whole kernels left. Think coarse corn meal consistency.

I’m not an advocate of squeezing, too much hassle for me. I prefer just to gravity drain for 20-30 minutes.

Thanks. It doesn't really appeal to me to squeeze the bag. I guess I'll have to get a feel for the volumes and all that with just gravity draining. Do feel like gravity drainage is consistent enough to accurately estimate for future brews!?

 

[NeoBrew]

Does everyone with a corona mill just set that thing as tight as it can go? Or what?

And how many of you all are sack squeezers?? Clarity isn't a big issue for me, I just don't want it gritty or anything...

Sack squeezing helps to get your efficiency up int the high 80's or low 90's. You also need to adjust your water quantity as you will be wasting less of it in the grain. I think BeerSmith now has a setting for BIAB that assumes less loss to grain. It's a pain in the *ss when the grain is still hot from the mash. I used silicone cooking gloves to squeeze when I still did that.

I'm sure there is something to having clear wort into the kettle. I never worried about it and had no trouble getting clear beer. Between settling in the kettle during cooling and letting it settle in the fermenter, it seemed to come out fine.

 

[GoeHaarden]

Sack squeezing helps to get your efficiency up int the high 80's or low 90's...it seemed to come out fine.

I think I'm just going to have to experiment with it. I am curious now to see how much of a gravity jump after squeezing.

And I figured it would settle out somewhere through the process, not worried either way. Just don't want to have to chew the beer.

Just waiting for my sack of 2-row to get here now so I can test out the mill and brew. Trying out Azacca for the first time in a single hop IPA...

 

[brew703]

I'm a squeezer. Mainly because I have to withhold two gallons of water until after the mash. I just pour the two gallons of warmed water over the grains the I squeeze. I also do it because I don't want to wait 20-30 min to let it gravity drain.
My efficiency is usually low to mid 80's and I'm satisfied with that.

 

[GoeHaarden]

I just pour the two gallons of warmed water over the grains the I squeeze.

Do you do this due to capacity issues or do you like rinsing the grain!?

 

[RM-MN]

Do you do this due to capacity issues or do you like rinsing the grain!?

I do it for both the capacity of the boil pot I use plus I like getting the extra 5 to 15% efficiency. You decide if it makes sense for you. I use water right out of the tap. By the time it is mixed with the hot soaking wet grains it has warmed quite a bit.

 

[GoeHaarden]

I do it for both the capacity of the boil pot I use plus I like getting the extra 5 to 15% efficiency. You decide if it makes sense for you. I use water right out of the tap. By the time it is mixed with the hot soaking wet grains it has warmed quite a bit.

Gotcha. If you use a bag, not basket, may I ask how you go about doing this? Like opening the bag while suspended to pour the water through, or just pouring through the top of a closed/suspended bag?

 

[brew703]

Do you do this due to capacity issues or do you like rinsing the grain!?

Capacity. I have a 10 gallon kettle and I use 8.6 gal of strike water. All water will fit with grain but leaves no room and when removing the bag makes a mess.
Before I started brewing 5.75 gal (into fermenter) I brewed 3.5 gal batches and I always squeezed the bag. I'm thinking of going electric maybe next year so holding off on any new purchase until then.

 

[RM-MN]

Gotcha. If you use a bag, not basket, may I ask how you go about doing this? Like opening the bag while suspended to pour the water through, or just pouring through the top of a closed/suspended bag?

I wish I had room to hang the bag but I brew smaller batches on the kitchen stove with a hood right above so I use a small plastic bowl with a colander inside it that will barely slip under the hood to get the bag of grain out without spreading wort all over the counter. Other people who do have room to hang the bag just pour the water through and report good efficiency so it must work well enough.

 

[GoeHaarden]

I have a 10 gallon kettle and I use 8.6 gal of strike water.

Hmm. I see. I have a 10 gallon kettle as well, and now you have me wondering if it has enough room. The biggest beer I was able to do (sparging) was a RIS with ~8 gal water and ~25lbs of grain but it was literally to the top. Surely, I can do regular batches but I might try out this rinsing of the grains. I have a feeling my first go at BIAB might not go as planned. lol

I use a small plastic bowl with a colander inside it

I was actually think about something like this. I was wondering about maybe draining the bag in a bucket, possibly with colander, while the boil kettle is heating to a boil, then add the drainage back to the main. Surely that would work, guess I could rinse too. I brew at the edge of my garage (with it open) so the garage door prevents any pulley system, and the ladder I'm going to use is an old school wooden one. Don't want to leave it over/around the propane burner.

 

[LittleRiver]

I'm a squeezer. Mainly because I have to withhold two gallons of water until after the mash. I just pour the two gallons of warmed water over the grains the I squeeze. I also do it because I don't want to wait 20-30 min to let it gravity drain. My efficiency is usually low to mid 80's and I'm satisfied with that.

Sounds like you have a good process that works well for your setup.

I get low to mid 80's efficiency without squeezing or sparging. I crush with a .025" mill gap. When the mash is complete I hoist the bag and immediately fire the burner for the boil, there's no waiting. Gravity drains the bag into the kettle during the boil.

There is very little liquid (200-300ml) left in a bag that has been allowed to fully drain, so I have no need or desire to squeeze the bag. If I want more efficiency (i.e. higher ABV) I have the option of doing a sparge. But since I can hit or exceed recipe targets without sparging, I normally don't.

A no squeeze no sparge brew day is very hassle free and enjoyable.

 

[brew703]

Hmm. I see. I have a 10 gallon kettle as well, and now you have me wondering if it has enough room. The biggest beer I was able to do (sparging) was a RIS with ~8 gal water and ~25lbs of grain but it was literally to the top. Surely, I can do regular batches but I might try out this rinsing of the grains. I have a feeling my first go at BIAB might not go as planned. lol



I was actually think about something like this. I was wondering about maybe draining the bag in a bucket, possibly with colander, while the boil kettle is heating to a boil, then add the drainage back to the main. Surely that would work, guess I could rinse too. I brew at the edge of my garage (with it open) so the garage door prevents any pulley system, and the ladder I'm going to use is an old school wooden one. Don't want to leave it over/around the propane burner.

My plan is when I upgrade, I will go with a 15 gal kettle. If you will be brewing 5+ gallons I would go with the larger kettle.

 

[Morrey]

What is the typical absorption rate if you just let the bag free drip?

I use the following for BIAB:

MM3 set for fine crush
Blichmann 10 G kettle and Blichmann 20 G kettle
Arbor Fab mesh basket(s) for each kettle - D Shaped and w/press plates
Blichmann propane burner

I use the 10G system for normal 1.070 or less beers 5.5 G size, and if I want to go 11 G I use the 20 G system. If I do a big 5.5 G beer 1.110 or close, I use the 20 G system. I have the luxury of both, but if I wanted only one system that can accommodate large beers, I'd pick a 15 G to allow big beer production in the 5.5 G size.

Note - I drilled the kettle(s) for a Whirl Pool valve so I had Arbor Fab build the mesh basket D shaped for a relief from the interior tubes and probe.

With the basket suspended above the wort, I press hard with the press plate and only lose 1/2 G absorption based on a 12# grain bill. I then rough up the grain bed which has been mashed flat and slowly pour 1/2 G sparge/rinse water over the grains to rinse some sugars. I am averaging 90% + mash efficiency with this method. By doing this (familiarity with my gear) I am only calculating boil-off and a small amount of loss for trub. I start with 7.5 G adjusted water.

The Blichmann burner is a beast and when it heats up, it takes quite some time for it to cool to the touch. Point being, the burner acts as a residual heat source to keep the mash at temp despite the burner turned off. I cover the kettle with a movers blanket and maintain mash temps within 2F at the most.

Expensive - yes. Worth it - yes. Would I do it again - without a doubt.

 

[GoeHaarden]

A no squeeze no sparge brew day is very hassle free and enjoyable.

I'm leaning towards this, but time will tell. I dig hassle free though...

My plan is when I upgrade, I will go with a 15 gal kettle. If you will be brewing 5+ gallons I would go with the larger kettle.

I have no intentions of ever doing more than 5.5 gal batches. I like having more rotation in my taps. I was initially just going take the plunge and buy a 15 gal kettle with arborfab basket, but I'm going to see if I even like this BIAB and its results first. But I feel like the only thing I would upgrade in the future is kettle size, maybe...

 

[GoeHaarden]

I use the following for BIAB:

MM3 set for fine crush
Blichmann 10 G kettle and Blichmann 20 G kettle
Arbor Fab mesh basket(s) for each kettle - D Shaped and w/press plates
Blichmann propane burner

I use the 10G system for normal 1.070 or less beers 5.5 G size, and if I want to go 11 G I use the 20 G system. If I do a big 5.5 G beer 1.110 or close, I use the 20 G system. I have the luxury of both, but if I wanted only one system that can accommodate large beers, I'd pick a 15 G to allow big beer production in the 5.5 G size.

Note - I drilled the kettle(s) for a Whirl Pool valve so I had Arbor Fab build the mesh basket D shaped for a relief from the interior tubes and probe.

With the basket suspended above the wort, I press hard with the press plate and only lose 1/2 G absorption based on a 12# grain bill. I then rough up the grain bed which has been mashed flat and slowly pour 1/2 G sparge/rinse water over the grains to rinse some sugars. I am averaging 90% + mash efficiency with this method. By doing this (familiarity with my gear) I am only calculating boil-off and a small amount of loss for trub. I start with 7.5 G adjusted water.

The Blichmann burner is a beast and when it heats up, it takes quite some time for it to cool to the touch. Point being, the burner acts as a residual heat source to keep the mash at temp despite the burner turned off. I cover the kettle with a movers blanket and maintain mash temps within 2F at the most.

Expensive - yes. Worth it - yes. Would I do it again - without a doubt.

Thanks. I think eventually I will upgrade to a 15 gallon kettle, as most of my beers stay below 1.070ish. I like to do the occasional big beer, and for now I will just utilize my multivessel setup for those if need be.

I've always wondered about the D-shaped baskets and how they perform. I'd say pretty good. Lol.

I have one of the edelmetal burners I got back in the day when they were free with a $150 purchase. So it probably has similar residual heat and I'm not too worried about a few degree drop. I have an old subz north face sleeping bag with a busted zipper I was planning on wrapping the kettle with...

 

[z-bob]

Have I posted in this thread yet? (I don't think so) I do 4 gallon BIAB's and I have a Wilser bag. Still tweaking my process, but what's working for me is I use 4 gallons of strike water. I let the bag drain, then I squeeze it and move it to a bucket. I add 2 to 2.5 gallons of dechlorinated hot tapwater, which is about 120 degrees. I let that steep for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile the first runnings are on the burner heating up. I drain the bag again, squeeze it again, and add the squeezings to the kettle and crank up the heat.

When it comes to a boil I skim the foam off the top, then start timing the boil. I usually boil for 45 minutes unless I'm using a large amount of pilsner malt, then it's an hour.

I can do all this on my kitchen stove, but just barely. I added a 1650W electric heat stick and that helps tremendously -- I could probably do 5 or 6 gallon brews now, but 4 gallons is a good size.

 

[balrog]

I'm with @wilserbrewer , for the bags and for gravity. I only drain about 5-6m under a step-ladder pulley setup, then swap grist bucket under bag while mash/brew-kettle goes to burner to heat to boil, which is another 10-15m drain time, adding drips from grist bucket (maybe another pint by then).

 

[GoeHaarden]

tweaking my process, but what's working for me is I use 4 gallons of strike water. I let the bag drain, then I squeeze it and move it to a bucket

I only drain about 5-6m under a step-ladder pulley setup, then swap grist bucket under bag while mash/brew-kettle goes to burner to heat to boil, which is another 10-15m drain time, adding drips from grist bucket (maybe another pint by then).

I think letting the bag drain over a bucket is the way to go for me. Simply because I won't have a reliable pulley/hoist system, and I can imagine the eruption that would ensue if the bag fell back in the kettle. Plus, I don't want my wooden ladder to catch fire. Lol.

I'm glad to see this drain into bucket and add back to main wort worka out for people!

 

[balrog]

Hm. Methinks I do more moving than necessary. I move off burner to mash and back. I don't think even if I put ladder over burner it would be a problem, but due to my old, tall, burner/stand, my ladder method is not tall enough to work.

 

[LittleRiver]

I think letting the bag drain over a bucket is the way to go for me. Simply because I won't have a reliable pulley/hoist system, and I can imagine the eruption that would ensue if the bag fell back in the kettle. Plus, I don't want my wooden ladder to catch fire....

That'll work. But it is extra work, and you said in an earlier post that you dig hassle free.

All that is required for a reliable hoist system that will prevent the bag from falling into the kettle is the pulley kit that Wilser sells, or buy yourself a ratcheting pulley elsewhere. If you want a 2:1 mechanical advantage to make the bag easier to lift, buy yourself an additional standard pulley. Grand total should be well under $20, money well spent.

I built a wooden stand to elevate my propane burner, and it doesn't even get warm. So I'd say there's no way your wooden ladder is going to catch fire unless you deliberately put it directly in the flame.

As for baskets, I prefer just a kettle and a bag. A basket causes a portion of your water to be separated from the grains during the mash. I prefer the full volume of water to be mixed in with the grain.

 

[GoeHaarden]

That'll work. But it is extra work, and you said in an earlier post that you dig hassle free.

Yes, I'm trying to create an easier brewday, but I'm also fully aware of Murphy's Law on brewday with new setups. Lol. Until I build a stand/hoist or whatnot I'm sure there will be a little more running around than with a process I'm familiar with.

All that is required for a reliable hoist system that will prevent the bag from falling into the kettle is the pulley kit that Wilser sells, or buy yourself a ratcheting pulley elsewhere. If you want a 2:1 mechanical advantage to make the bag easier to lift, buy yourself an additional standard pulley. Grand total should be well under $20, money well spent.

As of right now, I don't have anywhere to mount a pulley so I'll be doing some jury-rigging for a little bit. Again, fully expect Murphy to show up at some point. Maybe with few BIABs and a more permanent hoisting solution I'll lessen my paranoia...

As for baskets, I prefer just a kettle and a bag. A basket causes a portion of your water to be separated from the grains during the mash. I prefer the full volume of water to be mixed in with the grain.

I, obviously, haven't used a bag or basket but it seems like the results are similar from what others have posted. @Morrey uses a D-shaped basket which separates a lot more water from the grains, and he is reporting great efficiency. I think as long as water is getting to the grain it shouldn't matter you're just, in theory, decreasing your grist ratio.

I have a bag so that's what I'll use for the time being and maybe permanently but If I do decide to upgrade it'll be to a 15 gal kettle first. Then maybe a basket who knows!?

 

[pretzelb]

Yes, I'm trying to create an easier brewday, but I'm also fully aware of Murphy's Law on brewday with new setups. Lol. Until I build a stand/hoist or whatnot I'm sure there will be a little more running around than with a process I'm familiar with.



As of right now, I don't have anywhere to mount a pulley so I'll be doing some jury-rigging for a little bit. Again, fully expect Murphy to show up at some point. Maybe with few BIABs and a more permanent hoisting solution I'll lessen my paranoia...



I, obviously, haven't used a bag or basket but it seems like the results are similar from what others have posted. @Morrey uses a D-shaped basket which separates a lot more water from the grains, and he is reporting great efficiency. I think as long as water is getting to the grain it shouldn't matter you're just, in theory, decreasing your grist ratio.

I have a bag so that's what I'll use for the time being and maybe permanently but If I do decide to upgrade it'll be to a 15 gal kettle first. Then maybe a basket who knows!?

Fwiw, after a few years with a basket I just started using a bag again. The bag is so much lighter and cleaning up is much easier. I just put the bag into a garbage bag then roll my bag out and my grains are ready for the trash. My bag dries out a bit, gets a shake, then gets a quick clean in the sink. But to be fair, my basket has solid walls and I wouldn't recommend that to anyone.

 

[z-bob]

As of right now, I don't have anywhere to mount a pulley so I'll be doing some jury-rigging for a little bit. Again, fully expect Murphy to show up at some point. Maybe with few BIABs and a more permanent hoisting solution I'll lessen my paranoia...

Take a look at my ghetto setup: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/bag-hoist-hanging-any-pics.466358/page-2#post-8421825 Notice I'm not pulling down on the free end of the drawstring; that would double the weight being supported by the cabinet door (which would probably be okay but it's unnecessary)

 

[wilserbrewer]

Fwiw, after a few years with a basket I just started using a bag again. The bag is so much lighter and cleaning up is much easier. I just put the bag into a garbage bag then roll my bag out and my grains are ready for the trash. My bag dries out a bit, gets a shake, then gets a quick clean in the sink. But to be fair, my basket has solid walls and I wouldn't recommend that to anyone.

Interesting to hear this. After spending big $$$ money on a basket I feel most would be inclined love their basket

My biased opinion is the basket is an attempted improvement on something that didn’t need improving, and a solid sided basket was an intended improvement of that

Full size bag, full volume mash, stir, done lol

 

[pretzelb]

Interesting to hear this. After spending big $$$ money on a basket I feel most would be inclined love their basket

My biased opinion is the basket is an attempted improvement on something that didn’t need improving, and a solid sided basket was an intended improvement of that

Full size bag, full volume mash, stir, done lol

The basket came with the system and until you try it you don't know but mine was never fun. If I were to mention good points on a basket vs a bag I'd say 1) no need for a false bottom if you recirc (usually the basket is built to stay off the bottom), 2) attachments can be added to a basket, and 3) you typically need less room over head to fully hoist a basket since it won't stretch like a drawstring. But as I said, mine was heavy, had some sharp edges, and it wasn't fun shoveling out grains or cleaning it. To be fair, I did have to buy a false bottom to use my bag again. And I didn't enjoy squeezing the bag of a 10g batch for the first time. But this was my first attempt after a few years with the basket so I still need to adjust. If I was buying my rig again I'd skip the basket and get a custom false bottom for sure. I bet I end up buying another wilser bag soon just to get one that fits my kettle a bit more snug.

 

[SoCal-Doug]

If you have the money (or fabrication skills and equipment) and space, stick with a 3 vessel HERMS system. If you have a 30 or 50 amp electric service, definitely go electric. In the long run you will most likely be happier. If space, skills and/or cash is limited, there is nothing "wrong" with a BIAB setup. Actually, there's nothing "wrong" with extract brewing on the kitchen stove either. Each setup has its gains and limitations. I've started friends on all types of setups based on what they can afford and what their goals are.

 

[GoeHaarden]

If you have the money (or fabrication skills and equipment) and space, stick with a 3 vessel HERMS system. If you have a 30 or 50 amp electric service, definitely go electric. In the long run you will most likely be happier. If space, skills and/or cash is limited, there is nothing "wrong" with a BIAB setup. Actually, there's nothing "wrong" with extract brewing on the kitchen stove either. Each setup has its gains and limitations. I've started friends on all types of setups based on what they can afford and what their goals are.

The point is simplification of brew day. After about 5 years of all grain I have started to realize that mashing is not complicated. So why do we make it so with many vessels and pumps? I mean think about it. The goal is starch conversion, and my cooler beer is just as good as my RIMS beer. With LESS headache. I'm not trying to sell it so consistency in reproducing the same beer doesn't matter to me and a few degree temp drop in mash does NOTHING to overall flavor. This is my own experience talking so you'd be hard pressed to convince me otherwise...

Unless you can push 1 button and your system spits out beer, then I wouldn't call it automated. To me automation is a process of eliminating manual steps. BIAB accomplishes this on many fronts. BIAB = One heat source, one kettle, one bag = beer. It makes logical sense and I wish I would've realized this many years ago.

 

[GoeHaarden]

Fwiw, after a few years with a basket I just started using a bag again.

That's good to know. I'm just waiting on my grain to get here to try this new process

Take a look at my ghetto setup

Man, the spousal unit would throw a coniption fit if I tried this. Lol. I like the minimalist take tho...

Full size bag, full volume mash, stir, done

What have been doing all these years!? Lol.

 

[SoCal-Doug]

A BIAB system makes perfectly good beer. Cheaper. Saves some space. The only drawbacks for me that come to mind are (1) efficiency (2) repeatability when scaling up or down and (3) lifting the bag out. If you can personally mitigate or accept those things, by all means go with BIAB.

There's really no "automation" in most of the larger systems. But they are not any more complicated. More expensive initially, sure. More time to sparge, absolutely (I don't worry about 30 more minutes, some people do). I have a 3V electric system and its quite honestly boring. I push a button and go mow my lawn, flip a valve and sparge, push another button and boil. No fiddling, brew indoors if I want, and dont worry about wind, fumes and flames. I'll never look back. Not everyone wants to go this route and thats totally ok.

On the other side of the spectrum, some people are going totally bonkers with electronics and automation. I think it's kind of silly, but if someone wants to nerd out and computerize absolutely everything, to each his own. Some of these home brewers have more bells and whistles than large scale commercial brewers.

It's not the system that makes good beer. It's the brewers knowledge, skills and how well they operate their system that makes the difference. The rig doesnt develop and modify the recipe. It doesn't choose the yeast, hops, water profile, or fermentation temp. I've seen many a kitchen stove extract brew take best of show because the brewer mastered himself and his process.

 

[GoeHaarden]

The only drawbacks for me that come to mind are (1) efficiency (2) repeatability when scaling up or down and (3) lifting the bag out.

Although I'm technically not a BIAB'er yet, I don't think these are accurate statements. Sure you have to lift the bag, but the off set is you only clean one kettle. I don't see many 3-vessel brewers reporting +90% mash efficacy, but I see a lot of BIABer reporting such. Honestly, repeatability probably isn't too hard if you know your system regardless of type. I just tend to brew something different or tweaked every time. So repeatability is irrelevant to me.

It's not the system that makes good beer. It's the brewers knowledge, skills and how well they operate their system that makes the difference

So true. And with my experience I've realized what matters and what doesn't. Im cutting out the uneccessary steps/equipment...

 

[SoCal-Doug]

Although I'm technically not a BIAB'er yet, I don't think these are accurate statements. Sure you have to lift the bag, but the off set is you only clean one kettle. I don't see many 3-vessel brewers reporting +90% mash efficacy, but I see a lot of BIABer reporting such. Honestly, repeatability probably isn't too hard if you know your system regardless of type. I just tend to brew something different or tweaked every time. So repeatability is irrelevant to me.

Cleaning: yup. I clean two (the HLT just gets drained out). Spray them with the hose and let them drain. Exhausting!

Efficiency: Research that a bit more. Your statement contains errors

Repeatability: Ok, great

Stop being offended. I keep saying "build what you want to serve your needs"

 

[sborz22]

I read up on all grain and got to the point where I was ready to take the plunge. The equipment cost kept me from doing so. All the while I was seeing this BIAB thing and at that time I thought it was ridiculous. I'm a fundamentalist in some ways and felt if I was going to brew that it would have to be all grain or nothing - big mistake.

Shortly thereafter, I started coming across quality used equipment and I ended up amassing the gear I needed to do all grain for pennies on the dollar. One of the batches of gear came with a BIAB bag and I started reading up on that. It clicked with me and I've been brewing BIAB since then with no regrets. I have the gear to do all grain and I have plans to but to me BIAB seems easier. Quicker cleanup and easier mashing and sparging if you decide to do that (of course I have nothing to compare that to)

I have done a number of 1.100+ beers with ease. I'd make sure to get a Wilser bag (or two) and pulley from his site. Sells them as a package deal. Stainless basket would work too. I brew between 2.5 gallon test batches up to 6 gallons with no problem. Man it's great and I don't think you'll be disappointed.

Out of curiosity, what part of the process are you skeptical about?

Biab is still “all grain” because ya know, ya still use...all grain. Mashing is the change that separates extract v all grain not the vessels.

 

[GoeHaarden]

Cleaning: yup. I clean two (the HLT just gets drained out). Spray them with the hose and let them drain. Exhausting!

Efficiency: Research that a bit more. Your statement contains errors

Repeatability: Ok, great

Stop being offended. I keep saying "build what you want to serve your needs"

Hahaha. Not sure what you think is offensive, and I appreciate your input. I don't get bent out of shape when someone has a narrow minded opinion on the internet. I was simply replying to your "drawbacks" to BIAB and I'm not even a BIABer officially. And I'm curious what errors my efficacy statement contains.

Regardless, just RDWAHAHB bro...

 

[z-bob]

I used paint strainer bags from Home Depot until I got a larger kettle and they didn't fit well enough (was stretched too tight at the top and they'd tear after a use or two.) The Wilser bag works better, but not that much better than the cheap paint bag if the paint bag fits your kettle. So you can try BIAB with almost no investment and see how you like it.

 

[pretzelb]

Although I'm technically not a BIAB'er yet, I don't think these are accurate statements. Sure you have to lift the bag, but the off set is you only clean one kettle. I don't see many 3-vessel brewers reporting +90% mash efficacy, but I see a lot of BIABer reporting such. Honestly, repeatability probably isn't too hard if you know your system regardless of type. I just tend to brew something different or tweaked every time. So repeatability is irrelevant to me.



So true. And with my experience I've realized what matters and what doesn't. Im cutting out the uneccessary steps/equipment...

The statements you reference appear accurate to me and I've done biab. They aren't all encompassing but I don't think your rebuttal is on point.

The lifting off the bag is a huge deal for biab. If you think cleaning 3 vessels is equivalent then you aren't aware of why pulleys are purchased or about the dangers of dropping something into a kettle of hot liquid.

Mash efficiency is an issue. The problem is our community can't agree how to measure it.

Repeatability is something that should not be affected by what you brew. It can be affected by the size of the brew like 5g to 10g. But if you think you can't repeat your numbers when you just switch beer styles you are really missing the point.