Thinking about going BIAB. Anyone one with regrets? Tips?

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...this process of trying to go BIAB, for me anyways, is about being a more efficient brewer. Not just mash/brewhouse efficiency but in every other aspect to include time and costs...

I'm with you there. I'm not rich, but I could afford a top end "system". However I've consciously chosen to go with a very simple single vessel BIAB rig. I've been very happy, I have yet to find a reason to regret that decision. The beer is great, the brew days are relaxed and enjoyable, what's not to love?

...mills.... Just haven't decided. $30 sounds a lot better than $150, but if in the end it turns out to be $180 because I don't like the corona then the savings is all a wash anyways...

Make sure you check out the Cereal Killer. Lots of people on this forum have them and love them. $99 for a quality roller mill, with a mounting plate, and shipping included, is a great deal.

...how many of you are doing 30 minute or less mashes?

I do a 60 minute mash, and a 60 minute boil, and my brew days are still less than 4 hrs long (usually about 3:45). During the mash I do other things, brewing related or otherwise.
 
...can essentially get a true gravity reading on the fly with full volume BIAB? Since you won't be diluting it? Or am I missing something?...

If you're using a hydrometer the sample(s) will need to be chilled to get an accurate reading. This will take several minutes, even in a cold water bath.

With a refractometer the sample is so small that it will chill very quickly.
 
Always take my readings as soon as I chill the wort so I don't know why you would want to do it this early on the Fly unless you're trying to adjust your alcohol level
 
Always take my readings as soon as I chill the wort so I don't know why you would want to do it this early on the Fly unless you're trying to adjust your alcohol level

I take readings after the mash to figure out if I’m going to be short or long on gravity points, so I can adjust accordingly. With big brews, I’ll just boil until I hit my target OG, no matter how many minutes that takes, so I’m taking readings constantly.
 
I'm with you there. I'm not rich, but I could afford a top end "system". However I've consciously chosen to go with a very simple single vessel BIAB rig. I've been very happy, I have yet to find a reason to regret that decision. The beer is great, the brew days are relaxed and enjoyable, what's not to love?....

Yeah, I've slowly regressed my setup over the past year and I've enjoyed the simplicity. When I started AG several years ago I quickly moved from the cooler setup to a RIMS, but I had a SSR freeze up last year. While I was programming/rebuilding an upgraded controller with a touch screen I kept brewing but with my cooler. So over the last year I've been doing infusion mashes and I have loved the simplicity of it. I cannot tell any difference in beer quality, but maybe it's just 5 years of experience making better decisions!? No pumps, no electricity, no problems! Like you, I could buy a nice polished setup, but my beer is comparable to craft breweries. Why use a bazooka to kill a fly?

I had a cereal kill I got for $50 off craigslist, but it stopped working (I think it was a bearing or something simple) and I gave it to a buddy to fool with. It did seem to work well, but again, if I can do the same thing with a corona mill why not try for $20?
 
Always take my readings as soon as I chill the wort so I don't know why you would want to do it this early on the Fly unless you're trying to adjust your alcohol level

You don't take a pre-boil gravity reading? I use my refractometer throughout brew day, and I can make adjustments on the fly as to boil length or dilution if needed to hit my target OG.

I take readings after the mash to figure out if I’m going to be short or long on gravity points, so I can adjust accordingly. With big brews, I’ll just boil until I hit my target OG, no matter how many minutes that takes, so I’m taking readings constantly.

^^^^^This is more in line with what I'm asking. With full volume BIAB I could, in theory, take a (refractometer) reading any time during the mash and it should be my true gravity. As opposed to a tradition mash/sparge where your sparging will essentially dilute your first runnings so you would only reliably get a true gravity after sparging!?
 
You don't take a pre-boil gravity reading? I use my refractometer throughout brew day, and I can make adjustments on the fly as to boil length or dilution if needed to hit my target OG.

I used to, but I have a pretty good idea where the % is going to land based on grain bill and water volume. I don't mind the variability as it usually doesn't shift much from 5% which my typical target alcohol level.
 
... No pumps, no electricity, no problems! Like you, I could buy a nice polished setup, but my beer is comparable to craft breweries. Why use a bazooka to kill a fly?...

I've seen lots of comments where people talk about "upgrading" with a particular gizmo or system. There is definitely a mindset that more gear, more complexity, is somehow inherently "better". But it's not true, that thinking is just a foible of the human mind.

I see all that stuff as downgrades. I see it as unnecessary complexity to something that can and should be elegantly simple. That's the foible of my human mind. ;-)
 
I used to, but I have a pretty good idea where the % is going to land based on grain bill and water volume. I don't mind the variability as it usually doesn't shift much from 5% which my typical target alcohol level.

Gotcha. "I usually don't do it unless I'm drunk or high." Lol. LMAO.

On a serious note, I guess I just like to know what my mash is doing while it's doing it. Maybe it's better to wait until the end so I'm not boiling with disappointment. Lol. It's just something I've always done I suppose...
 
I've seen lots of comments where people talk about "upgrading" with a particular gizmo or system. There is definitely a mindset that more gear, more complexity, is somehow inherently "better". But it's not true, that thinking is just a foible of the human mind.

I see all that stuff as downgrades. I see it as unnecessary complexity to something that can and should be elegantly simple. That's the foible of my human mind. ;-)

Don't get me wrong, I love my gizmos, but I'm more of the DIY type of person who likes to tinker/build the gizmos rather then buying them. To me that's some of the fun of this hobby as well, and that's how I got sucked into building my arduino RIMS controller in the first place. And brewpi fermentation chamber, yada, yada...

I'm not going to lie I had that same mindset initially with brewing, the more equipment and bells and whistles the better. I've since learned what matters and what doesn't. I'm not turning in my ferm chamber by any means, just trying to trim the figurative fat out of my brewhouse...
 
Don't get me wrong, I love my gizmos, but I'm more of the DIY type of person who likes to tinker/build the gizmos rather then buying them. To me that's some of the fun of this hobby as well, and that's how I got sucked into building my arduino RIMS controller in the first place. And brewpi fermentation chamber, yada, yada...

I'm not going to lie I had that same mindset initially with brewing, the more equipment and bells and whistles the better. I've since learned what matters and what doesn't. I'm not turning in my ferm chamber by any means, just trying to trim the figurative fat out of my brewhouse...
ditto. scaling down is an upgrade in my book.
 
Ive only ever brewed BIAB, so nothing to compare it to but 2 years in and im loving it and have never thought a bout brewing any other way (except maybe getting an ebiab setup). I would call my setup a "budget" rig, bayou classic 16g kettle, kab4 burner, wilser bag and a homemade brew cart. I use a corona style mill and get consisten mid 80s efficiency. There are certainly things id like to upgrade but they are almost exclusively on the cold side after the brew day.
The good thing for you is already have all the equipment, bag included to try it at 0 cost. Really nothing to lose. Best of luck.
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Ive only ever brewed BIAB....

I like your little BIAB cart, and I will probably eventually do something like that if I decide to stick with the process. Your mill setup is a nice use of space too! How bad does the corona mill throw grain around if you don't cover the top?
 
If you mean out of the top of the bucket, it would get a little messy without the lid. Could always mount it lower in the bucket to minimize it
 
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If you mean out of the top of the bucket, it would get a little messy without the lid. Could always mount it lower in the bucket to minimize it
I use a Corona mill I made a guard out of an old steel coffee can. It covers the top and behind the discs. It keeps the grain dropping right in the pan. I will take a pic later and post it.
 
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I use a Corona mill I made a guard out of an old steel coffee can. It covers the top and behind the discs. It keeps the grain dropping right in the pan. I will take a pic later and post it.

Nice. This is what I was wondering about. I guess it needs to be covered in order to prevent grain from spraying everywhere...Easy enough!
 
I slip a gallon plastic bag over the grinding area and hold it in place with a couple clothespins. The gallon bag holds one hopper full and lets me dump the grains into the brew pot with one hand while stirring with the other hand.
 
I liked brew in a bag, but I hated cleaning it out. Could just be me being a little picky, but I always cleaned the bag until the bag was back in the same condition I started with.

That being said, I prefer cleaning out my tun as it's quite a bit quicker for me.
 
View attachment 592870

yeah it needs to be covered somehow, you can see in my pic I have the bucket lid on, I just cut out a section for the mill to fit

Gotcha. Seems like it's worth a shot for $20 and some scrap wood I have laying around. I'm wondering if I can some how attach it really close the edge of a round plastic lid (or make one out of wood) and have the mounting arm supported by the outside of the bucket? Time to get designing...
 
I liked brew in a bag, but I hated cleaning it out. Could just be me being a little picky, but I always cleaned the bag until the bag was back in the same condition I started with.

That being said, I prefer cleaning out my tun as it's quite a bit quicker for me.

The bag I already have I rinse out all the visible grain particles out with a hose, then I toss it in my boil kettle when I heating up the PBW solution. Usually comes out sparkling white again and only takes the time it takes to clean my boil kettle. So I'm cleaning it either way right now...lol
 
I liked brew in a bag, but I hated cleaning it out. Could just be me being a little picky, but I always cleaned the bag until the bag was back in the same condition I started with.

That being said, I prefer cleaning out my tun as it's quite a bit quicker for me.

I simply dump the grain and rinse the excess sugars out of the material, then hang and let dry. Why make it spotless when the next time you use it it will be for brewing a batch of beer.
 
Ok everyone. I splurged...

...pulled the trigger on the $20 corona mill!

Hahaha!
I bought the 20 dollar corona mill cast steel. the castings are very loose tolerance. on mine i did 2 things that made a big improvement. 1 I added the grain guard i posted earlier. 2 I added a bushing where the auger shaft goes through the mill where the handle attaches. Mine was so loose there grain would work it's way out and fall on the floor.
 
I bought the 20 dollar corona mill cast steel. the castings are very loose tolerance. on mine i did 2 things that made a big improvement. 1 I added the grain guard i posted earlier. 2 I added a bushing where the auger shaft goes through the mill where the handle attaches. Mine was so loose there grain would work it's way out and fall on the floor.

Thanks. Good to know. I have read about the wide variances in quality control and tolerances. I expect to be adding some shims and bushings, but I'm completely okay with it for what I paid. It'll be hard to complain either way...lol
 
Looks good, id try to find something to make the hopper bigger, the one that comes with it only holds about 1lb of grain

Yeah. I have an old 5 gallon better bottle that is warped and cracked at the port hole. Should work nice if I lop the bottom off. My selective hoarding pays off sometimes :D
 
@Tarpon87 is that homedepot bucket a screw on top? Air tight?

Was looking at getting a Vittles Vault to store grain, just wondering if it's worth the $35?
 
@Tarpon87 is that homedepot bucket a screw on top? Air tight?

Was looking at getting a Vittles Vault to store grain, just wondering if it's worth the $35?

Before you ever see the grain it is stored in vented areas. The advantage of the Vittles Vault would be keeping out rodents and insects. Insects don't like dry grain so all you need to keep out is rodents. Any container with a lid the rodents can't chew through will do.
 
@Tarpon87 is that homedepot bucket a screw on top? Air tight?

Was looking at getting a Vittles Vault to store grain, just wondering if it's worth the $35?

I use an galv. steel garbage can. It has only been used to store corn and other grains in. i tried plastic and the mice and squirrels will chew thru them.
 
Before you ever see the grain it is stored in vented areas. The advantage of the Vittles Vault would be keeping out rodents and insects. Insects don't like dry grain so all you need to keep out is rodents. Any container with a lid the rodents can't chew through will do.

Yeah. I don't have rodent problem, yet. I just don't a new one with storing grain in the garage. I've never seen those screw on lids for a HD bucket, and I'm definitely going that route. Those ridgid snap on lids are a PITA to get off.

Thanks for being the voice of reason...again! Lol
 
I use an galv. steel garbage can. It has only been used to store corn and other grains in. i tried plastic and the mice and squirrels will chew thru them.

Do you ever have problems with them getting in through under the lid? I always figured that the lid had to be pretty secure, but I guess a good slip fit might still work since the rodents would still have to climb up?
 
Yeah. I don't have rodent problem, yet. I just don't a new one with storing grain in the garage. I've never seen those screw on lids for a HD bucket, and I'm definitely going that route. Those ridgid snap on lids are a PITA to get off.

Thanks for being the voice of reason...again! Lol

Lay the lid on top but don't snap it down. Just put some weight on top, like a brick or a pair of boots. Rodents in this area are not weight lifters and can't climb up that slick bucket side and still lift the lid that has something on top of it and they aren't smart enough to push the weight off.
 
Do you ever have problems with them getting in through under the lid? I always figured that the lid had to be pretty secure, but I guess a good slip fit might still work since the rodents would still have to climb up?
Never had a rodent get in. my wife also stores the suit for the birds in another steel can.
 

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