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I just made an upgrade to my unit. First it can be a no-sparge or sparge system. My HLT is a 10gal beverage cooler on a rolling cart (not pictured). The sparge water can be gravity fed or I can use the wort pump. I simply raise the inner MT to control the draining of the wort and I can immerse it again if I want. It uses a 110v electric hoist mounted in my garage (makes emptying the grain easy!). I've had the base system for a couple of years now and it is simply a 10gal MT with the bottom cut out and a perforated false bottom. The MT sits inside a 15gal BK. I fill the BK using the sight glass, heat the strike water and then lower in the MT and turn on the pump. As I pour in the grain, I let the recirculating water wet the grain kinda like a hydrator in production brewery.

The "upgrade" is the pump cart with the RIMS PID. Before, I was using a rolling tool cart that had everything mounted and two 10gal beverage coolers on top. I was also using an Auber Sous Vide PID but that recently stopped working. The cart with everything mounted worked great, but it was bulky and between it and the single burner brew stand, I was always tripping over a power cord or a beer hose hose or a propane hose. The heat exchanger is something I've had a while. The 1" PVC is easy to work with, sturdy, light and cheap. BTW, I was looking for a more "elegant" way of mounting the RIMS tube (from BobbyM), but it made removal for cleaning more cumbersome. So, I used the clamps and they have not failed me yet. BTW, I realize the RIMS tube is on upside down, but that is just for the photo :)

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I have noticed a common "thread" in all of these setups. All of us have junk in our garages that we need to get rid of (myself very much included)!
 
Progress

Need to rehang light. Plumb some water in and out. Get the pump mounted to the stand on the bottom (which doubles as a portable burner stand should I decide to brew elsewhere whenever I want.) Thinking of converting/trading my 50' IC for a CFC to keep things cleaner

This is looking to be an interesting build. Are you just going to hang a florescent shop light from the top? Or what are the plans otherwise?
 
I just made an upgrade to my unit. First it can be a no-sparge or sparge system. My HLT is a 10gal beverage cooler on a rolling cart (not pictured). The sparge water can be gravity fed or I can use the wort pump. I simply raise the inner MT to control the draining of the wort and I can immerse it again if I want. It uses a 110v electric hoist mounted in my garage (makes emptying the grain easy!). I've had the base system for a couple of years now and it is simply a 10gal MT with the bottom cut out and a perforated false bottom. The MT sits inside a 15gal BK. I fill the BK using the sight glass, heat the strike water and then lower in the MT and turn on the pump. As I pour in the grain, I let the recirculating water wet the grain kinda like a hydrator in production brewery.

The "upgrade" is the pump cart with the RIMS PID. Before, I was using a rolling tool cart that had everything mounted and two 10gal beverage coolers on top. I was also using an Auber Sous Vide PID but that recently stopped working. The cart with everything mounted worked great, but it was bulky and between it and the single burner brew stand, I was always tripping over a power cord or a beer hose hose or a propane hose. The heat exchanger is something I've had a while. The 1" PVC is easy to work with, sturdy, light and cheap. BTW, I was looking for a more "elegant" way of mounting the RIMS tube (from BobbyM), but it made removal for cleaning more cumbersome. So, I used the clamps and they have not failed me yet. BTW, I realize the RIMS tube is on upside down, but that is just for the photo :)


I haven't done BIAB (is that basically what you're doing?) but why the rims tube? Looks like you could easily just direct fire?




Primary: Helles, ordinary bitter
Secondary: Maibock
On tap: Oatmeal Brown, Irish Stout, Amber Ale, Orange Belgian IPA,
Bottled: Dwarven Gold Ale, La Fin Du Mond clone, Hefeweizen
 
This is looking to be an interesting build. Are you just going to hang a florescent shop light from the top? Or what are the plans otherwise?

Yes there is a 4' shop light I took down to paint. I need to ad wood to the shelves and the thought is to add 3 stc-1000 in thermowells to give read outs (not controlling anything just a cheap temp display device). I would like to get a CFC to mount it on the right of the stand so it just dumps into a carboy at the end of the day. Kinda tired of my IC but we'll see. Need to brew something soon for sure
 
I haven't done BIAB (is that basically what you're doing?) but why the rims tube? Looks like you could easily just direct fire?




Primary: Helles, ordinary bitter
Secondary: Maibock
On tap: Oatmeal Brown, Irish Stout, Amber Ale, Orange Belgian IPA,
Bottled: Dwarven Gold Ale, La Fin Du Mond clone, Hefeweizen

I go spargeless or sparged depending on what I'm doing. I use the RIMS to maintain the mash. It is much easier to maintain mash temps using the RIMS and I can walk away from it to do other things. The same could be done using the burner, but I would need an electronic ignitor. It would be less expensive to just buy an ignitor than using a RIMS. I do have an electronic valve that I bought to use in an automated gas system, but I never used it.
 
Progress

Need to rehang light. Plumb some water in and out. Get the pump mounted to the stand on the bottom (which doubles as a portable burner stand should I decide to brew elsewhere whenever I want.) Thinking of converting/trading my 50' IC for a CFC to keep things cleaner

Came out to brew. Ended up realizing my propane hoses were too short and for some reason my pump is decoupling when I open it up full bore. Also forgot 1 damn male cam lock. Back to brewhardware.com lol

Put a canopy up temporarily as its supposed to start raining. Hopefully can limp it at least brew tomorrow. Kegs been empty too damn long

View attachment 1417308199660.jpg
 
New Camp Chef Explorer double burner stand upgrade I got as a gift. In this picture I am pumping the sparge into the boil keggle.

brewrig.jpg
 
I have the 3rd 25 gallon kettle - just didn't want to buy that much peanut oil and the stand wasn't designed to hold the much smaller Bayou Classic pot - had to improvise. I can tell you that the BG-14 burners put off so much heat that the oven tray warped about a quarter of an inch where the turkey frying pot was...
 
TH
If you ever get interested in building one, I would be happy to provide dimensions and sources.


KartRacer
Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
I'm interested in building a rims w a raspberry pi. Looking into the pi now. Trying to figure all the pieces out. Wil be my next project in the new year.
 
This is my brewery. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
My brewery is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.
My brewry, without me, is useless. Without my brewery, I am useless.

Square1 - Dual Element 110v 6 gallon E-BIAB
img_20141207_125148536-64329.jpg
 
This is my brewery. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
My brewery is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.
My brewry, without me, is useless. Without my brewery, I am useless.

Square1 - Dual Element 110v 6 gallon E-BIAB
img_20141207_125148536-64329.jpg



I see what you did their lol, nice easy running brewery you got their my friend
 
In hindsight i probably didnt need the extra switch / heatsink / etc.. i could have left element 2 plugged into the wall until it was close to strike then just unplugged it until time to boil.
 
On the way to finished (obvs an outside stand, assembled in dining room to try out positioning of pots etc.)

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1418330527.040045.jpg

I will mark off the shelving positions then put it up and take it down each brew day (10 mins maybe). This stuff is strong and gets more rigid when you add weight.

Now to order the burners! Best buy some Xmas presents first.
 
On the way to finished (obvs an outside stand, assembled in dining room to try out positioning of pots etc.)

View attachment 241175

I will mark off the shelving positions then put it up and take it down each brew day (10 mins maybe). This stuff is strong and gets more rigid when you add weight.

Now to order the burners! Best buy some Xmas presents first.

Be careful with those stands. I tried using the "HDX" ones from Home Depot and even though the plastic clamps where lined up withe notches in the leg and the shelf wedged into tight, once a lot of weight was put on it the shelf actually still started slipping down the leg. The plastic on some models isn't as strong or the nub inside the plastic that is supposed to lock into the notch on the leg isn't sufficient. I imagine that once heat starts transferring throughout the metal shelf from the hot pots, it will soften the plastic even more.

Hopefully your shelves are better than the ones I had.
 
For safety you need an additional shelf between the two you are using. Already leaning. These shelves hold an incredible amount of weight when properly assembled.
 
This is my brewery. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
My brewery is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.
My brewry, without me, is useless. Without my brewery, I am useless.

Square1 - Dual Element 110v 6 gallon E-BIAB
img_20141207_125148536-64329.jpg

I like the simplicity of it and the fact that you accomplished it with 110v power!
 
I like the simplicity of it and the fact that you accomplished it with 110v power!

I work as a mechanical design engineer and I cant leave good enough alone. I am scrapping my box and redesigning the control panel. It will be better / a little more blingy / a little simpler and more friendly.

The current green box was just a junk box i had laying around. Im going to have my new box have a laser cut stainless face and back plate, and a rapid prototyped plastic body.

If theres intrest i can document the whole build. ( I am working on building the cad models for it right now ) .. I have made a few improvements to my vessel as well. So other than whast pictured there wont be any changes to the vessel... well i guess i might add a sight glass and wrap it in relfectix.

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img_20141211_224410079_hdr-64364.jpg
 
For safety you need an additional shelf between the two you are using. Already leaning. These shelves hold an incredible amount of weight when properly assembled.


Agree. They are rated to around 700lbs evenly spread per shelf. I want to reassemble it properly outside with the shelves in a slightly different configuration which will give it more rigidity, do a test boil with say 5 gals water then finally assess whether more shelving is required to finish it.
 
Be careful with those stands. I tried using the "HDX" ones from Home Depot and even though the plastic clamps where lined up withe notches in the leg and the shelf wedged into tight, once a lot of weight was put on it the shelf actually still started slipping down the leg. The plastic on some models isn't as strong or the nub inside the plastic that is supposed to lock into the notch on the leg isn't sufficient. I imagine that once heat starts transferring throughout the metal shelf from the hot pots, it will soften the plastic even more.



Hopefully your shelves are better than the ones I had.


Thanks yeah I think there are different ratings of wire shelving, we use these for industrial purposes at work and they are pretty damn strong.
 
Be careful with those stands. I tried using the "HDX" ones from Home Depot and even though the plastic clamps where lined up withe notches in the leg and the shelf wedged into tight, once a lot of weight was put on it the shelf actually still started slipping down the leg. The plastic on some models isn't as strong or the nub inside the plastic that is supposed to lock into the notch on the leg isn't sufficient. I imagine that once heat starts transferring throughout the metal shelf from the hot pots, it will soften the plastic even more.

Hopefully your shelves are better than the ones I had.

Drill a pilot hole through the shelf corner loop and the leg and put a tek screw into it. It won't slip anywhere.
 
23 tip NG Chinese wok burner with 12 tips plugged. Stand made from strut. I was worried I wouldn't be able to keep a blue flame with it cranked down but it seems to work fine. I will probably add some sort of wind screen at some point.
38KNuxD.jpg
 
23 tip NG Chinese wok burner with 12 tips plugged. Stand made from strut. I was worried I wouldn't be able to keep a blue flame with it cranked down but it seems to work fine. I will probably add some sort of wind screen at some point.
38KNuxD.jpg


That's a beast of a burner, I've been looking into those. How fast are you reaching your strike and boil temps?
 
Sneezye
I have three of the thirty+ tip NG burners I got for free. You think if I plug a bunch of the ports I can use them or ?
 
That's what I was thinking, each port seems to be set to light the adjacent port. I may try to convert my BG12 s first. Read on the forum where it had been done even though classic says it cannot.
 
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