nyer
Well-Known Member
I think I might have to add something like that to my MLT. I hate scooping out the grain. I would add some type of hitch pin on the pivot so the MLT could be removed quickly and easily.
I think I might have to add something like that to my MLT. I hate scooping out the grain. I would add some type of hitch pin on the pivot so the MLT could be removed quickly and easily.
Oooh, a gift from Texas! But probably not seafoodI'm exited!
I can picture a pin I saw at lowes that would be perfect, it's long enough to reach through both brackets and it has a nice handle on one end with holes in the others for a key. I think it's used for farm equipment and should be very strong.
I'd LOVE to bring you back some seafood. Unfortunately (well, actually, fortunately for us) it's over 80 degrees and I just have no way to keep it for 3-4 days for the trip home. We cooked up some random stuff we still had yesterday- one live blue crab, one small flounder, some other stuff- and it was awesome. I do wish I could bring home a sack of oysters, though.
With the removable pin, that could mean that I could still use my old MLT (I'm thinking for real small grain bills, like a 5 gallon mild), as well as emptying the MLT and then hosing it out. You know what might be helpful? (Just thinking out loud here). One of those "handles" like you put on the side of the canoe with some weld or some rivets? Does that make sense? One of those on each side near the top might make handling it and lifting it easier, if it's doable. My friend Roger put them on his canoe, to carry it down to the river. Would that be something that might work?
Looks great! How did you get the last bit of the collar off?
I think it's awesome. I'd recommend putting a hefty handle on the top on the far side of the opening to initiate the dump process and keep it controlled as you lower it to the garbage can. You'll also do well if you make a curved piece of stiff rubber and attach a handle like a hoe to squeegee the grain off the walls.
Also, don't overlook the plumbing when considering the dumping action. It may seem odd, but attaching the output ball valve to the front of the stand and then connecting it to the tun with silicone tubing would be one way to avoid having to notch out a large portion of the stand.
I guess I will just have to visit you guys out there someday to get some of that seafood.
Yes, you should be able to swap out MLT's. The only issue may be the false bottom. I was planning on modifying it for the keg but we may be able to keep it useable in both.
Handles would be very "handy". I was planning to run to Ace and get something when we put this together. I was thinking of at least a handle on the back of the keg for something to hold onto while tipping the keg. We could add one on the front also for carrying.
On my old rig, the MLT was bolted to a frame made from steel angle and the whole thing was hinged on 2 7/16" bolts which slid inside of whatever steel pipe has close to that ID and it was plenty strong and worked fine.
If you want removable pins, I think someone already mentioned farm supply stores. They sell a variety of hitch pins with the matching sleeves / bushings for a nice fit.
You're always welcome here- as you should know by know.
The FB can be modified- I have an extra, I'm pretty sure. One I had before the electric MLT and one that came with the "new" MLT. Even when we swapped the MLTs for the non-cutout one, I think we kept the same FB. So unless I gave that old 12" FB away, I should still have it in the basement.
Really? A spare false bottom?!?!? Only the hard core brewers keep one of those on hand. It does take quite a few batches to wear one out.
I cannot imagine you having ANY problems with that design as far as a dump goes. The center of gravity is low as it can go and it is stupid simple! I'm not sure where the concern comes from with the design. 1/2 in bolts, looks like .157-.187 thick hinges...Should handle it no problem.
I personally would be tempted to add a stop at the bottom of the travel for the MLT and if you were really concerned about the strength, add a gusset to the bottom angle for additional strength. But I would try it like it is first..It's not like these options cannot be added later after a cold test run.
Good job!
Maybe use a small chain as a limiting strap on the back side of the keg for a stop.
OMG- I just saw my skimpy bathrobe hanging there. That's hysterically funny. I should have cleaned up the brewery a little bit!
OMG- I just saw my skimpy bathrobe hanging there. That's hysterically funny. I should have cleaned up the brewery a little bit!
I'm so excited about brewing on this! As soon as I get over "The Plague", I'm going to brew. I will shoot for Saturday.
Bob was impressed for a couple of reasons. One, he's had the heebie jeebies about mashing in plastic all this time, but we really didn't have a good alternative until the keg came up. Two, it's shiny! Three, he thinks it will make hauling out the wet grain easier and make clean up easier. (He's the MLT emptier and the MLT cleaner).
I'm thrilled, except for the minor leak. And I know we'll get that sorted out!
I've never played around with a triclover to sanke neck connection before, but does the oring sit in the recess on the triclover adapter? And if so, does it also sit correctly on the ledge of the sanke neck? It seams to me that the oring would have to be pretty well centered on that rather small flange. I wonder if a donut shaped piece of thin rubber wouldn't be a better gasket for that situation.
The o-ring seems to be in the right place for a seal...but obviously something is wrong. A thin silicone gasket may be the ticket. The triclover to triclover gasket is too thick to close the clamp. I really did not expect a leak here![]()
I used an exacto knife to remove the ridge on the sanke side of the o-ring, sealed up water-tight.