Anyone use RIMS with a Cooler MLT?

[Nagorg]

Thanks for the illustration @ITV .

A question about using a cooler MLT with RIMS, I'm assuming that you have a false bottom in yours. Since I have rectangular cooler MLT(s) I use a copper manifold with slits cut in it that face the bottom of the cooler.

Any concerns for adequate flow into the RIMS from this type of setup instead of a false bottom? I can post a pic if needed for clarity.

 

[ITV]

Thanks for the illustration @ITV .

A question about using a cooler MLT with RIMS, I'm assuming that you have a false bottom in yours. Since I have rectangular cooler MLT(s) I use a copper manifold with slits cut in it that face the bottom of the cooler.

Any concerns for adequate flow into the RIMS from this type of setup instead of a false bottom? I can post a pic if needed for clarity.

I use a bazooka screen in the bottom of my MLT, I also have a rectangular cooler (with a bazooka screen) that I used for high gravity batches, which I haven't needed since upgrading to a 15 gallon MLT, with success.

WIth receipes using flaked oats or wheat, I use rice hulls to prevent stuck sparges as well as adding water to adjust the mash thickness for proper recirc flow.

By doing an initial recirc with the heating element off, I can adjust the pump flow (via pump discharge valve) or add additional strike water, to verify any issues with a stuck mash before turning on the heating element.

 

[Broken Crow]

Thanks for the illustration @ITV .

A question about using a cooler MLT with RIMS, I'm assuming that you have a false bottom in yours. Since I have rectangular cooler MLT(s) I use a copper manifold with slits cut in it that face the bottom of the cooler.

Any concerns for adequate flow into the RIMS from this type of setup instead of a false bottom? I can post a pic if needed for clarity.

The flow is the flow, wether a FB or the popular DIY slit tubing. I might be paranoid having read a couple hundred or so user accounts of the many systems and options available, but really: My paranoia of scorched wort was assuaged by a parameter you only get in the Auber DSPR units. ...Not trying to diss other controllers, but for the paranoid, there really is no other option.
Really; Read this thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/understanding-the-auber-ezboil-dspr-320.699459/ and you'll probably choose it even if it does cost a bit more. Bright side is that Bobby includes it as standard in the Cube he sells.
Just my 2 cents

 

[Broken Crow]

I had more thoughts..sorry..
If you're trying to take economical baby-steps while investing for the long run; Sure: Buy the Inkbird controller for now..In future you can reassign it to HLT duty after you have more time and cash to upgrade to the Auber unit (DIY or bought)..it'll give you some leeway and experience with it, but please: Do get the 5500W element and 18" RIMS tube from the get-go; You can later add a TC bulkhead https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15wlf.htm to your existing BK and when you're done the mash, you can pull out the element, move it to your BK and use the same element/controller for the boil.
I was paranoid about scorching, so I simply chose to start with the Auber.
Just food for thought.