OP
OP
Thanks! The handle is in the plans and I'm sure will be necessary. The squeegee is a great idea. I had not considered a tubing connection to the bottom. That sounds like it may work out great.
Sanke Tippy Dump MLT
- Thread starter lschiavo
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Thanks! The handle is in the plans and I'm sure will be necessary. The squeegee is a great idea. I had not considered a tubing connection to the bottom. That sounds like it may work out great.
You're always welcome here- as you should know by know.
The FB can be modified- I have an extra, I'm pretty sure. One I had before the electric MLT and one that came with the "new" MLT. Even when we swapped the MLTs for the non-cutout one, I think we kept the same FB. So unless I gave that old 12" FB away, I should still have it in the basement.
Junkster
Well-Known Member
On my old rig, the MLT was bolted to a frame made from steel angle and the whole thing was hinged on 2 7/16" bolts which slid inside of whatever steel pipe has close to that ID and it was plenty strong and worked fine.
If you want removable pins, I think someone already mentioned farm supply stores. They sell a variety of hitch pins with the matching sleeves / bushings for a nice fit.
If you want removable pins, I think someone already mentioned farm supply stores. They sell a variety of hitch pins with the matching sleeves / bushings for a nice fit.
OP
OP
I think I can visualize your old setup but pictures would help if you have any.
The Farm supply store is 30 miles away. I'm not making a special trip for a pin but the one posted earlier does look nice.
OP
OP
Really? A spare false bottom?!?!? Only the hard core brewers keep one of those on hand. It does take quite a few batches to wear one out.
You've seen my basement. I probably have a lot of spare things. I have a spare immersion chiller for sure, and a spare 5 gallon MLT (with false bottom) and a spare 10 gallon MLT(with false bottom, I think), and a spare HLT and a spare 30 gallon BK. It's like your family's storage barn, but with less space. I can probably scrounge up several things if I haven't given them away!
I cannot imagine you having ANY problems with that design as far as a dump goes. The center of gravity is low as it can go and it is stupid simple! I'm not sure where the concern comes from with the design. 1/2 in bolts, looks like .157-.187 thick hinges...Should handle it no problem.
I personally would be tempted to add a stop at the bottom of the travel for the MLT and if you were really concerned about the strength, add a gusset to the bottom angle for additional strength. But I would try it like it is first..It's not like these options cannot be added later after a cold test run.
Good job!
I personally would be tempted to add a stop at the bottom of the travel for the MLT and if you were really concerned about the strength, add a gusset to the bottom angle for additional strength. But I would try it like it is first..It's not like these options cannot be added later after a cold test run.
Good job!
OP
OP
Thank you. The stop is something I have been thinking about. I will be digging around for something to make that work. I think the angles will be ok. I have a feeling that the front rail on Yooper's stand may need a little beefing up.
"stupid simple", I like that! I really enjoy building stuff like this. The challenge of trying to come up with something as simple, cheap and durable as possible is actually sort of fun. It usually involves sitting with a homebrew and staring at it for a while which for me can be great entertainment
OP
OP
That should work well. I was also thinking of some sort of rubber bumper thingy mounted to the front rail of the stand. Off to dig through my piles of junk...
Junkster
Well-Known Member
I used chains on my old one to limit the travel..... I'll try to find some pics.
OP
OP
Okay, we finally got around to installing this thing. The only issue was the o-ring on the tri clover to sanke fitting would not seal completely...just a small leak. I am going to try to clean up the sanke side of the fitting with my random orbit sander as it had a few nicks in it that are probably causing the leak. If anybody has advice to offer to fix this problem, I'm all ears.
No handle or stop yet. Yooper is going to brew with it first and we will make any modifications after a trial run. Here's some pics:
No handle or stop yet. Yooper is going to brew with it first and we will make any modifications after a trial run. Here's some pics:
OMG- I just saw my skimpy bathrobe hanging there. That's hysterically funny. I should have cleaned up the brewery a little bit!
I'm so excited about brewing on this! As soon as I get over "The Plague", I'm going to brew. I will shoot for Saturday.
Bob was impressed for a couple of reasons. One, he's had the heebie jeebies about mashing in plastic all this time, but we really didn't have a good alternative until the keg came up. Two, it's shiny! Three, he thinks it will make hauling out the wet grain easier and make clean up easier. (He's the MLT emptier and the MLT cleaner).
I'm thrilled, except for the minor leak. And I know we'll get that sorted out!
I'm so excited about brewing on this! As soon as I get over "The Plague", I'm going to brew. I will shoot for Saturday.
Bob was impressed for a couple of reasons. One, he's had the heebie jeebies about mashing in plastic all this time, but we really didn't have a good alternative until the keg came up. Two, it's shiny! Three, he thinks it will make hauling out the wet grain easier and make clean up easier. (He's the MLT emptier and the MLT cleaner).
I'm thrilled, except for the minor leak. And I know we'll get that sorted out!
OP
OP
HA, I didn't notice the bathrobe until I posted the pic. It could have been worse...it could have been Bob's skimpy undies
I'm sure we'll have a few modifications to make but we will get it ironed out.
I've never played around with a triclover to sanke neck connection before, but does the oring sit in the recess on the triclover adapter? And if so, does it also sit correctly on the ledge of the sanke neck? It seams to me that the oring would have to be pretty well centered on that rather small flange. I wonder if a donut shaped piece of thin rubber wouldn't be a better gasket for that situation.
OP
OP
The o-ring seems to be in the right place for a seal...but obviously something is wrong. A thin silicone gasket may be the ticket. The triclover to triclover gasket is too thick to close the clamp. I really did not expect a leak here
The o-ring seems to be in the right place for a seal...but obviously something is wrong. A thin silicone gasket may be the ticket. The triclover to triclover gasket is too thick to close the clamp. I really did not expect a leak here
I used an exacto knife to remove the ridge on the sanke side of the o-ring, sealed up water-tight.
OP
OP
You know, I did try that but it was still too thick to close the clamp...??
I've successfully trimmed the ridge off of a regular tri-clamp style gasket on a filter screen too. The right kind of gasket is available from St. Pat's. Made for this application. Avoid radial scratches the go across the sealing surface.
OP
OP
Are you speaking of the silicone gasket? That is the type I have and tried trimming. It seems like it may work on my keg but the flange on Yoopers seems thicker so I cannot get the clamp closed.
The one on the bottom right?
Are you speaking of the silicone gasket? That is the type I have and tried trimming. It seems like it may work on my keg but the flange on Yoopers seems thicker so I cannot get the clamp closed.
The one on the bottom right?
That's the one.
phoenixs4r
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Maybe its a bad angle, but the Dumper looks like it could dump wet grain, residual worth on the pump if it got away from ya?
No, it must be the angle! There are two pumps, one behind and one to the right (as you look at the stand). Neither are in harm's way!
OP
OP
Thanks for the advice guys. I think I will try to go back to one of those original silicone gaskets with a little more trimming.
OP
OP
Yes, no danger of damage to the pumps but I think a stop will be a good addition. I think I have something figured out. There is no need for the dump to go past vertical anyway.
I like this setup, and may try to get something fashioned for my Insulated Mash Tun on Barney
OP
OP
Nice hardware there! That elbow would swing nice through a hole in the brewstand as long as your stand rails are not too thick. I'll be interested to see what you come up with.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Orange-Sili...876?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab45878cc
Lay the TC adapter on that and cut out a circle. Probably enough for 6 gaskets right? Best offer? Ask for $.45 shipping.
Lay the TC adapter on that and cut out a circle. Probably enough for 6 gaskets right? Best offer? Ask for $.45 shipping.
OP
OP
Just sent an offer. Thanks!
OP
OP
I just tried to make my own. Keg lube on both surfaces, spread 100% silicone caulk on the ferrule and set it on top of the sanke to cure. We will see... It says safe for food contact when cured.
Old_mil_guy
Well-Known Member
Is this the St Pats gasket you have?
"Sanke-to-TriClamp Gasket $2
Modified 2" Silicone Gasket for using TriClamp fittings on standard Sanke beer kegs. [You do not need to weld a 2" TriClamp ferrule onto Sanke kegs to use TriClamp fittings.]"
These are what I am ordering for my sanke fermenter.
"Sanke-to-TriClamp Gasket $2
Modified 2" Silicone Gasket for using TriClamp fittings on standard Sanke beer kegs. [You do not need to weld a 2" TriClamp ferrule onto Sanke kegs to use TriClamp fittings.]"
These are what I am ordering for my sanke fermenter.
OP
OP
Hey Old Mud,
This is the gasket I am trying to use. I think the flange on Yoopers keg is thicker than average and is why I am having issues. It seems like this will work on the keg I plan to use and likely will work for you. You may need to trim the ridge with a razor blade though.
Old_mil_guy
Well-Known Member
Hey lschiavo,
I'm also looking at cutting the ridge or ordering one sided gaskets. But right now I am going to measure the 3 sanke kegs I have just to see if I'll have problems.
I'm also looking at cutting the ridge or ordering one sided gaskets. But right now I am going to measure the 3 sanke kegs I have just to see if I'll have problems.
Hey guys (and gals),
I am in the process of designing my tippy dump and am taking inspiration from your setup. I do have a question as to whether or not the weight when emptying the MLT is anywhere close enough to have issues with tipping the stand. I am working on mine and want to do a similar design but want to make sure that I dont have a safety issue when dumping. I am assuming that the dump will be done most of the time during the boil so the weight of the liquid would be enough to offset the dumping of the grain. Thanks for any thoughts.
I am in the process of designing my tippy dump and am taking inspiration from your setup. I do have a question as to whether or not the weight when emptying the MLT is anywhere close enough to have issues with tipping the stand. I am working on mine and want to do a similar design but want to make sure that I dont have a safety issue when dumping. I am assuming that the dump will be done most of the time during the boil so the weight of the liquid would be enough to offset the dumping of the grain. Thanks for any thoughts.
No, the stand doesn't budge at all! Of course, when I'm dumping, the BK is full, usually at 12 gallons which sits next to the MLT. So there is far more weight on the stand than that being dumped, if that makes sense. But I've dumped it later on also, without any issues at all.
OP
OP
Check out this pic:
The rails on Yooper's stand were pretty flimsy so I used a piece of conduit as a spacer between the rails and a piece of threaded rod (inside the conduit) to tie the front rail to the back. The weight when dumping is still on the front edge of the stand but this method tied the rails together and made it solid as a rock. I think the stand would have to be pretty lightweight to ever risk tipping it.
