ruger988
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2013
- Messages
- 865
- Reaction score
- 213
I used the following from amazon:
"Bakto Flavors Natural Coconut Flavor (1 FL OZ) Pack of 3"
For whatever that's worth..... Good luck.
Imperial Stout Russian Imperial Stout (2011 HBT Competition Category Winner)
- Thread starter marubozo
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
I used the following from amazon:
"Bakto Flavors Natural Coconut Flavor (1 FL OZ) Pack of 3"
For whatever that's worth..... Good luck.
disregard got the recipes and yeast mixed up! Porter called for AA2, I'll be using the correct yeast for this recipe! Struggles of planning 3 brew sessions
Moved this off to a keg yesterday for it's six month aging journey. I needed my fermenter back. Had about a half gallon left after kegging. My father in law and I drank that half gallon, warm and flat. Can't wait for this to be done. It is already good.
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2014
- Messages
- 13,403
- Reaction score
- 23,213
Thanks. Ended up toasting 6oz coconuts. No where near the chocolate I was aiming for, 8oz cocoa nibs next time. Both halves bottled. Bourbon/coffee in the other half. My wife filled our container with french roast instead of Verona...not the flavor profile I wanted, really nothing has gone right here except the beer seems clean, ergo drinkable!
View attachment 1481589340590.jpg
View attachment 1481589355659.jpg
Mine has been fermenting away for about a week and a half and soon I will transfer into secondary with an ounce of oak chunks (medium toast) and 2 ounces of uncrushed coffee beans (Sumatra) - both of which are soaking in bourbon. After 6 months in secondary I'm thinking this should be a nice bourbon-barrel aged slightly coffee RIS.
Fermented in primary at 62°F for three days, 65°F for another four days, and has been at 68°F for the last week. 62°F kept my primary *just* under blow-off tube level using Nottingham yeast. So far so good...
Fermented in primary at 62°F for three days, 65°F for another four days, and has been at 68°F for the last week. 62°F kept my primary *just* under blow-off tube level using Nottingham yeast. So far so good...
I have brewed this twice so far, both times without any fermentation control other than the temps in my basement. Now I have a fermentation chamber and want to try again. I currently have a Hazelnut Toffee Porter that is finishing up and I used Nottingham for it. We will see how this does after I put the RIS on the yeast cake. I better keep temps low so I don't have a blow out
bigbeer
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2013
- Messages
- 78
- Reaction score
- 2
Just wondering if you ended up trying to make something with the second runnings? If yes, how did it turn out? Also what was the process and what would you have done differently?
Any idea on what I would need to do this as an extract brew? Possibly only 2 gallon, but if it is easier to convert to 5gal that would work as well.
A friend and I made this All-Grain 2 years ago and I really enjoyed it. I just got my brewing setup but I only have the gear for extract. I was trying to do the conversion myself, but I only came to 47IBU and I am not sure if some of those grains can be steeped in a muslin bag or not.
Thanks!
A friend and I made this All-Grain 2 years ago and I really enjoyed it. I just got my brewing setup but I only have the gear for extract. I was trying to do the conversion myself, but I only came to 47IBU and I am not sure if some of those grains can be steeped in a muslin bag or not.
Thanks!
What size kettle do you have and are you familiar with BIAB? I brewed this as a BIAB. I'll let you know how it is in another 4 months......
I have a 5-gallon cheap stainless steel pot I am currently using.
I have watched a few videos of BIAB. Yeah, def. post back your results on this. I would be ok with doing a BIAB style.
btbnl
Well-Known Member
Both of my batches have been 5G BIAB ... you need a big pot and you'll get much lower than normal efficiency (55-60% instead of 75-80% for me), but the results are spectacular!
plankbr
Well-Known Member
I did this exactly and got another 10 gallons of wort. I believe it came in at 1.032 (it's close to that) and finished at 1.002. Interesting to say the least. Single hopped with Centennial.
10 gallons at 1.032 is what you ended up with in the fermenter?
plankbr
Well-Known Member
Correct.
Just sampled mine 4 months after brew day, 3 months sitting on oak in secondary. Tasting excellent so far. Probably going to give it another 4-8 months on oak and then start thinking about whether I want to add any adjuncts.
How much oak did you put it on?
This RIS is currently sitting on 0.4oz/gal American medium toast oak cubes.
I split the batch between a 3 gal and 1 gal carboy. For the 3 gal carboy, I boiled the oak for 3 minutes before adding to the beer. For the 1 gal carboy, I boiled the oak for 30 seconds. This is my 6th or 7th time oaking a strong ale so I've been doing some small experiments like that to determine what produces the best results.
In general, I let these types of beers sit on ~0.3oz/gal cubes (boiled for a short time) for 6-8 months in secondary after a month in primary.
I have oak sprials that were used to oak my homemade whiskey with. After removing them from the whiskey i put them in a sanitized freezer bag and froze them. Would that eliminate the need to boil? I currently have 3 or 4 sprials
From what I understand, yes, soaking oak in whiskey should achieve the same thing as boiling. The idea is to get some of the harsher tannins out.
kmoyer01
Member
I brewed this recipe 3 years ago and thought it was all gone. I was racking some mead in the cold cellar and came across 2 bottles still left. 2 bottles of 3 year aged Imperial Stout. I should have oaked it if I was going to keep it that long.
Who wants to come over for a taste when I pop them?
Who wants to come over for a taste when I pop them?
herv
Member
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2013
- Messages
- 11
- Reaction score
- 3
Brewed in dec of '15 and racked to a keg jan 31 '16. aged and bottled till Nov '16 for consumption at christmas! very good stout. I didnt oak it but that is a flavor coming thru a bit when cold. however let it warm a bit to not quite room temp ~50F and wow does it improve the drinking pleasure. have a lot on hand in bottles so will be able to taste the life cycle of this one for the next months to year. Very good RIS but not in a hurry to make again I long for more roasted flavor profile than i achieved with this one (probably my fault) but I am still perfecting my practice so that would help as well! thanks for the recipe. cheers!
So my 6 month wait is over. I kegged conditioned this, but a small amount of bottling sugar in the keg when I put it in the keg 6 months ago. I've been burping the keg every two weeks or so for the past 6 months. Put it in the keezer yesterday and poured myself a pint last night. All foam. Poured a whole pitcher of foam and another glass of foam. Of course I let the foam sit and it magically turned into some of the most wonderful beer in about 10 minutes. What do I need to do about all the foam?
Is it cold enough? How long does it usually take for you to get a keg to serving temperatures in the keezer? When my keg get beer is still warm, it tends to foam up on me....
I was wondering if that was the case too, but I did another pour last night with the same results.
Anyone gone straight from primary and bottled? And if so was bottling yeast necessary?
Concerned out my bulk aging capability; putting the beer in to my secondary would leave a lot of head space and risk oxidation(?)
Could split the batch into 1gal fermenters and minimise head space I suppose..
Concerned out my bulk aging capability; putting the beer in to my secondary would leave a lot of head space and risk oxidation(?)
Could split the batch into 1gal fermenters and minimise head space I suppose..
I entered this recipe into my Brewer's friend log with one addition of some flaked oats. I then tried to come up with a water profile with a decent pH and I'm really struggling. Using a Desired water profile of "Black Full" in Bru'n Water I can't seem to find a combination of minerals that will stay in the recommended profile and yield a pH in the 5.4-5.6 range.
Does anyone have a water profile/mineral addition that will work with RO water?
Does anyone have a water profile/mineral addition that will work with RO water?
Maybe try cold steeping the dark grains and mashing the others? Just a thought. I want to brew this some time and I have not input the grain into EZ Water Calc yet.
I just read about this yesterday. I'm curious about it, but what I read mentioned it as a solution to my problem, but didn't really go into much detail about how to do it. I get the basic premise, and Bru'n Water has a setting for it, but it wasn't clear to me if it's as simple as omitting the dark grains from the mast water calcs and just adding the output of the separate steep to the kettle?
I'm really interested in any steps I can take to create a rich, thick mouthfeel and get the nice flavors without too much burnt roast flavor. The beer I have in mind is the BA Dark Star from Fremont.
Sounds like we are after the same thing with thick mouthfeel and no burnt roast flavor. I'd like it to be deep, dark black as well.
My take on cold steeping was that you exclude it from the mash calculations and just add the cold steep, say for instance, at 10 minutes before the boil is done. I plan to brew a cream ale next and then the Left Hand Milk Stout clone on HBT and try a cold steep with the chocolate malt and the roasted barley for that batch. I may try boiling for 90 to 120 minutes for that batch as well. I plan to do some more reading and research on cold steep over the next few week and then give it a shot.
I've made this a couple times and have had a great thick, rich mouthfeel without being overwhelmed by the burnt roast flavors. I also haven't gotten to water adjustment or anything. One thing I've heard of people doing is adding the dark, roasted grains at the end of the mash. Maybe like 10-15 minutes, but I've not tried that either.
Bru'n Water has an option to mash roasted and/or dark crystal malts separately. It must not be uncommon....I just need to read more about the process to ensure I'm doing it right. I really don't want to brew/ferment/age a big stout and have it turn out bad because I did something stupid.
I agree. There's lots of investment for this big beer. That's another reason I plan to try cold steeping with the LH milk stout recipe. I've brewed that one multiple times so I have an idea of what it should taste like. I hope it will be a good way to compare cold steep vs full mash. If that works out, I need to get around to brewing this one. Hopefully I can report back results in a few weeks with the results. Let us know what tips and tricks you may find as well. The pipeline is built up right now so brewing a beer that needs to be aged is a good idea for me.
Ike
nOob for life
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2015
- Messages
- 532
- Reaction score
- 186
So, not trying to spam the forum, but I'd started a thread in the All-Grain section to ask a question, and thought I'd ask it here since it's relevant to this recipe:
(For the record: Full volume BIAB, using distilled water that I build up with salts to match suggested profiles on Brewer's Friend.)
If I'm going to do the late-addition mash technique for my dark grains, do I still need all the salt additions that Brewer's Friend says I need to meet the Stout water profile? It's quite a bit, including a massive 13g of chalk, which many say will cause off-flavors.
SO, do I:
Use the same water profile, even though I'm only mashing the pale grains?
OR, do I just salt my water for the mash, i.e. 17 pounds of 2-row, and skip the other salts?
ETA: I think I'm going to have to leave the salts out, because the amount of bicarbonate in them is making the pH even harder to hit. BUT, I'd still like to hear what others say...
(For the record: Full volume BIAB, using distilled water that I build up with salts to match suggested profiles on Brewer's Friend.)
If I'm going to do the late-addition mash technique for my dark grains, do I still need all the salt additions that Brewer's Friend says I need to meet the Stout water profile? It's quite a bit, including a massive 13g of chalk, which many say will cause off-flavors.
SO, do I:
Use the same water profile, even though I'm only mashing the pale grains?
OR, do I just salt my water for the mash, i.e. 17 pounds of 2-row, and skip the other salts?
ETA: I think I'm going to have to leave the salts out, because the amount of bicarbonate in them is making the pH even harder to hit. BUT, I'd still like to hear what others say...
