Robobrew/Brewzilla Discussion

[CUSTOM-441]

You know I'm not really sure...i know the water amount effects the mash thickness...in my old cooler tun I always used 1.5/pound and always hit my numbers. I guess its a bit of trial and error to see especially with recirculation.

I have never considered this. My friend has a 35L Robobrew as well but he uses the equipment profile in Brewfather while I use Beersmith. Our strike & sparge volumes are always very different with the same recipes and batch sizes. Maybe this is why. That said I've been using the standard 1.7qt/lb in Beersmith and so far that seems to work pretty well.

 

[rjhoff]

I have never considered this. My friend has a 35L Robobrew as well but he uses the equipment profile in Brewfather while I use Beersmith. Our strike & sparge volumes are always very different with the same recipes and batch sizes. Maybe this is why. That said I've been using the standard 1.7qt/lb in Beersmith and so far that seems to work pretty well.

I noticed when I tweak my mash in volume that the sparge volume shifts accordingly (at least in BeerSmith) - I wonder if the total volumes for Brewfather and BeerSmith are the same?

 

[Sammy86]

I have never considered this. My friend has a 35L Robobrew as well but he uses the equipment profile in Brewfather while I use Beersmith. Our strike & sparge volumes are always very different with the same recipes and batch sizes. Maybe this is why. That said I've been using the standard 1.7qt/lb in Beersmith and so far that seems to work pretty well.

After last brew day I am definitely going with 2.0 qt/pound for the mash. The 3.0 that i used was just WAY too much water for the tun.

 

[RePete]

I have never considered this. My friend has a 35L Robobrew as well but he uses the equipment profile in Brewfather while I use Beersmith. Our strike & sparge volumes are always very different with the same recipes and batch sizes. Maybe this is why. That said I've been using the standard 1.7qt/lb in Beersmith and so far that seems to work pretty well.

I use 5 gal of water for a basic 12 lb batch now. So right around 1.7 qts/lb. Early on I was mashing in with 4 gallons, which was a little thick, so upped it after seeing what you guys were doing. Will up it to 6 gallons for a bigger beer...15-16 lbs. I just sparge until I have the right volume. I try not to over think it.

 

[Sammy86]

I use 5 gal of water for a basic 12 lb batch now. So right around 1.7 qts/lb. Early on I was mashing in with 4 gallons, which was a little thick, so upped it after seeing what you guys were doing. Will up it to 6 gallons for a bigger beer...15-16 lbs. I just sparge until I have the right volume. I try not to over think it.

Sounds like a plan...after watching This guy whose been using the Brewzilla since the beginning...i'm sticking with my 2.0 qts/pound.

Just kegged up the the recent helles/kolsch experiment...only been in the keg on gas for a week but the flavors are there

Kölsch on the left, Helles Bock on the right.

 

[rjhoff]

BeerSmith appears to set a default 1.70 grist ratio which works well enough for me on most recipes. Seems my buddy and I had a similar ratio on the 26 gallon system we used to brew on. Both leverage sparge water. I’ve read that grist ratio has little impact on results although I assume there’s a minimum threshold to saturate and mix with the grain.

 

[RePete]

I think we brewed the same RIS recipe a few months ago. I put mine on tap before Thanksgiving and loving it!

I finally kegged the RIS. Oh man...It’s really good. I may have to brew this one again.

 

[rjhoff]

I finally kegged the RIS. Oh man...It’s really good. I may have to brew this one again.

It’s an excellent recipe. I brewed right after you but tapped it a Month ago. I’m getting positive, bordering on emotional feedback! I’m sure for that one neither of us had a 1.7 ratio :-o

I pour a glass at the end of the evening and let it gradually warm up while I’m sipping it. Excellent!

 

[skarz]

Maybe someone has asked this, but I'm definitely not combing through 7 pages... Doesn't polycarbonate release BPA when exposed to hot water? Just Googling polycarbonate + hot water makes me never want to consider using this...

 

[ATLBeer]

Mine’s all stainless, where’s the polycarbonate in the process?

 

[Sammy86]

How did everyone’s beer turn out? I believe many of us brewed around the same time?

 

[RePete]

How did everyone’s beer turn out? I believe many of us brewed around the same time?

I brewed last weekend. It was a Bell’s Two Hearted recipe which is still in the fermenter. The weekend before I did an amber lager. It’s in the keg, and turned out quite nice. I modified my procedure for adding hops at flameout on these last 2 batches. I put in the immersion chiller, but didn’t turn it on, and left on the neoprene jacket. Added the hops at around 190*, and then didn’t start to actively chill until it got down to 160*. It probably took 20 mins. I didn’t turn on the elements to hold heat. It did impart some additional flavor/aroma I believe.

 

[RePete]

Mine’s all stainless, where’s the polycarbonate in the process?

Mine is all stainless too. The only potential polycarbonate I am aware of is a sight glass modification, which isn’t available here. If memory serves, someone posted that Kegland had one, but not in the US.

 

[rjhoff]

How did everyone’s beer turn out? I believe many of us brewed around the same time?

I’m backed up: RIS, pale ale, and pliney clone on tap; ESB and west coast IPA in keg in my backup fridge, Belgian Dark Strong and Biere de Garde extended conditioning in the fermenters. My son’s visiting between the holidays and we’re brewing a hopslam clone. whew!

 

[RePete]

I’m backed up: RIS, pale ale, and pliney clone on tap; ESB and west coast IPA in keg in my backup fridge, Belgian Dark Strong and Bierce de Garde extended conditioning in the fermenters. My son’s visiting between the holidays and we’re brewing a hopslam clone. whew!

Same situation. I have a couple more kegs up and running now. They needed fittings. So now I have a couple IPA's, a couple lagers, a RIS, and a porter in kegs. There is a Bell's Two Hearted clone in the main fermenter that I brewed last weekend. I do have a couple glass carboys open if I get antsy and need to brew.

 

[rjhoff]

Same situation. I have a couple more kegs up and running now. They needed fittings. So now I have a couple IPA's, a couple lagers, a RIS, and a porter in kegs. There is a Bell's Two Hearted clone in the main fermenter that I brewed last weekend. I do have a couple glass carboys open if I get antsy and need to brew.

Yeah, this year at least, I brew whenever one of my two primary fermenters open up. If the kegs aren’t open I just let it sit

 

[Sammy86]

Yeah, this year at least, I brew whenever one of my two primary fermenters open up. If the kegs aren’t open I just let it sit

Man, I wish I had the fermentation capabilities to do this...or have enough room in the keezer to have more than two taps going.

 

[rjhoff]

Man, I wish I had the fermentation capabilities to do this...or have enough room in the keezer to have more than two taps going.

I converted my 2 tap kegerator to 3 taps a few years ago. Three corneys just fit in.

 

[Sammy86]

I converted my 2 tap kegerator to 3 taps a few years ago. Three corneys just fit in.

My plan is to update this summer...going to build a a collar out of 2X6...move the CO2 tank out and be able to fit 2 more kegs in there...should be a huge upgrade.

 

[RePete]

I only have one main fermenter now. It is a 30L Speidel. Until recently I used the glass carboys, but lately they’ve just been backup. Or for secondary. I’ve started to do closed transfers using gravity from the spigot of the Speidel. Most of my beers ferment in a week, so I've just kept rotating them through. I may move this batch of Two Hearted to a carboy to dry hop it.

My kegerator has only has 1 tap. That little fridge will hold 2 kegs. I think about how to add a two tap tower to it. As is, I keep 2 in there and switch the line occasionally. There is also a regular size fridge in the basement. Half of the bottom part is cleared out. I keep one keg cold in there, and can sit it out to add a tap. Right now, the basement floor is cool enough that the other kegs are cool enough to drink too. At some point maybe I will build a proper keezer.

 

[rjhoff]

I only have one main fermenter now. It is a 30L Speidel. Until recently I used the glass carboys, but lately they’ve just been backup. Or for secondary. I’ve started to do closed transfers using gravity from the spigot of the Speidel. Most of my beers ferment in a week, so I've just kept rotating them through. I may move this batch of Two Hearted to a carboy to dry hop it.

My kegerator has only has 1 tap. That little fridge will hold 2 kegs. I think about how to add a two tap tower to it. As is, I keep 2 in there and switch the line occasionally. There is also a regular size fridge in the basement. Half of the bottom part is cleared out. I keep one keg cold in there, and can sit it out to add a tap. Right now, the basement floor is cool enough that the other kegs are cool enough to drink too. At some point maybe I will build a proper keezer.

I bought my tower kit from keg connection or beverage factory (don’t recall). I also put a picnic tap on a keg every now and then.

 

[skarz]

Mine’s all stainless, where’s the polycarbonate in the process?

The second post in this thread is about a polycarbonate sight glass from Kegland.

Kegland is offering a polycarbonate sight glass retrofit. Currently out of stock there, so could be a while before we see it in the states.

https://www.kegland.com.au/polycarbonate-sight-glass-2-piece-set-1.html

 

[ATLBeer]

Well I guess if you are worried about PBA then don’t get a sight glass.

Not sure why one is needed on one of these units.

 

[rjhoff]

Well I guess if you are worried about PBA then don’t get a sight glass.

Not sure why one is needed on one of these units.

I’d love to do this conversion on my Robobrew as it allows you to hit the pre-boil volume target. I use a silicone tube connected to the bottom spigot.

 

[RePete]

Well I guess if you are worried about PBA then don’t get a sight glass.

Not sure why one is needed on one of these units.

When sparging, the basket is in the way of trying to see the volume. I guess, and lift the basket occasionally. So a sight glass would be handy.

 

[cayde1001]

I bought a sight glass from brewhardware and do not regret it. While it is definitely not a necessity it does make life a little bit easier. As @RePete said instead of having to peek into the kettle multiple times during the sparge to figure the pre-boil volume you have an external measure right in front of you..

 

[skarz]

Well I guess if you are worried about PBA then don’t get a sight glass.

Not sure why one is needed on one of these units.

Uh... Because when the malt pipe is in the unit it's nearly impossible to see how much water there is? Even when you're boiling it can be extremely hard to get an accurate look at how much wort there is.

 

[ATLBeer]

Guess I’ve been lucky hitting my pre boil pretty close without it.

My point was that if someone is really worried about PBA, it isn’t a required modification.

 

[rjhoff]

Guess I’ve been lucky hitting my pre boil pretty close without it.

My point was that if someone is really worried about PBA, it isn’t a required modification.

I'd like to do the mod, but will think twice if theres a leeching risk...

 

[skarz]

My point was that if someone is really worried about PBA, it isn’t a required modification.

So if I'm not worried about dying in a car accident then my seatbelt isn't required? I don't understand your logic there. Technically no modifications are necessary, that's why they are, after all, modifications.

Just because one method of doing something is unsafe does not mean the thing in itself is not worth doing.

 

[ATLBeer]

Man this forum is sensitive.

I didn’t say anything about other methods. I said if he was worried about PBAs he didn’t need to add one and I run mine fine without it.

 

[RePete]

Man this forum is sensitive.

I didn’t say anything about other methods. I said if he was worried about PBAs he didn’t need to add one and I run mine fine without it.

Not to mention that it is a mod that isn't even available.

 

[skarz]

Not to mention that it is a mod that isn't even available.

How did you come to that conclusion? It's available on the following websites:

https://www.kegland.com.au/polycarbonate-sight-glass-2-piece-set.htmlhttps://www.morebeer.com/products/polycarbonate-sight-glass-235.html

 

[RePete]

How did you come to that conclusion? It's available on the following websites:

https://www.kegland.com.au/polycarbonate-sight-glass-2-piece-set.htmlhttps://www.morebeer.com/products/polycarbonate-sight-glass-235.html

I hadn’t looked recently, and didn’t see that it was available through Morebeer now. I stand corrected.

 

[rjhoff]

Here’s my DIY sight “glass”. I set it up every session and calibrate by filling the vessel with pre-boil volume. Kind of a PITA, so I’ll take a look at the MoreBeer part.

 

[CUSTOM-441]

Maybe someone has asked this, but I'm definitely not combing through 7 pages... Doesn't polycarbonate release BPA when exposed to hot water? Just Googling polycarbonate + hot water makes me never want to consider using this...

If this is in regards to my fly sparge bucket, it is made from HDPE (High-density Polyethelene), which is a BPA free plastic and is therefor food grade. In fact, HDPE is used in most PEX pipes, which is used as H2O plumbing in most newer homes.

Uh... Because when the malt pipe is in the unit it's nearly impossible to see how much water there is? Even when you're boiling it can be extremely hard to get an accurate look at how much wort there is.

Using the mash & sparge water volumes from Beersmith, and measuring them out beforehand, has ALWAYS given me my desired batch volume to a tee! I never use the graduated markings. That said, the sight glass mod is very cool and I'd trust it over the graduated markings!

As for beers on the go, I've got a Porter which is a hit and maybe my favourite homebrew to date, and my Double IPA which is almost done. Brewed a Sierra Nevada clone today to hold me over. I mostly brew American/British style ales, and I'm thinking of doing something different next, but not sure what. Maybe a Belgian? I'm open to suggestions!

 

[Cloud Surfer]

Can someone please explain what the top screen is supposed to do? Seems many people don’t use it so they can stir during the mash. So it looks like a part that’s not really required.

 

[CUSTOM-441]

I've heard of people plugging the overflow pipe with a stainless bolt before. Is there any advantage or benefit to doing this? If the top screen is on during the mash then there shouldn't be any grains ending up in the kettle if it overflows. I don't understand why everyone dislikes the overflow pipe so much

I've clearly changed my mind since August! Has anyone done the bolt mod, and can they say whether it has improved their experience? Since stirring my mash I've noticed a big increase in efficiency. I want to get away from using the top screen because of this, and the overflow pipe is just getting in the way now. Also, the holes for the malt pipe handle SHOULD act like an overflow if things go sideways...

 

[RePete]

Can someone please explain what the top screen is supposed to do? Seems many people don’t use it so they can stir during the mash. So it looks like a part that’s not really required.

There was a bunch of discussion about this previously.

 

[cayde1001]

I've clearly changed my mind since August! Has anyone done the bolt mod, and can they say whether it has improved their experience? Since stirring my mash I've noticed a big increase in efficiency. I want to get away from using the top screen because of this, and the overflow pipe is just getting in the way now. Also, the holes for the malt pipe handle SHOULD act like an overflow if things go sideways...

I have done the bolt mod and have been running with it for the last 4 brew days. Since going this route I have had 0 issues with stuck mash and sparge. The size bolt for the 65L brewzilla is a 1/2-20 stainless screw. The best deal I could find was on ebay. I cannot say that the top screen was the only reason for issues but since doing this mod and adjusting my mill gap I have been much happier.