RIMS for Dummies

[Mtn_Brewer]

you dont need a SSR on a pump, that would be a waste of money, it is an on or off unit. The SSR is because you are cycling the heating element off and on constantly.

Also, an SSR usually needs a heat sink but a contactor does not. Auber has a cheap single pole contactor for ~$9. Here's the link:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=250

 

[fc36]

you dont need a SSR on a pump, that would be a waste of money, it is an on or off unit. The SSR is because you are cycling the heating element off and on constantly.

You're right, you could operate it with the pump always on and then the heater will kick on or off as needed. However, some people use the pump on an SSR as well in order to not lose all the heat when moving wort through the RIMS when the heater is off. It's all a personal choice and only adds about $10-20 for an SSR.

 

[fc36]

1000 watt. It works well but I'm going to try a 1500 soon.

If you switch to a 1500 watt element make sure to also change your breaker to 20 Amps at least. I know you're operating your RIMS and beer fridge on the same 15 Amp circuit, but I personally would not do that for safety purposes. It works, but when both are on, you are very near to the max cap. of your breaker. A typical beer fridge's compressor will run on 4 Amps and your 1000 Watt element is running on 8.33 Amps for a total of 12.33 Amps with no safety factor. I would swap for a 20 ASAP.

 

[fc36]

Should I add that 15A breaker to my parts list too? I want to be as safe as possible since I have no prior electrical experience.

Thanks.

See my post above. You really should be running a 1500 Watt element on at least a 20 Amp breaker if you plan on using any other electrical eqpt on that same circuit. And just to clarify, I believe JoeyChopps is referring to the breaker that is installed in his home's circuit panel. You won't need to buy a new one if you have a 20 amp feeding a circuit nearby to where you're brewing.

 

[misled_drummer]

you dont need a SSR on a pump, that would be a waste of money, it is an on or off unit. The SSR is because you are cycling the heating element off and on constantly.

That makes sense.

I put the order in for the RIMS Tube and the fittings. The other stuff will have to wait until next paycheck.

 

[donnieballgame]

I love this setup, my only regret was buying the ss pipe first before I found out about the tri-clamps, really wish I did a little more research before pulling the trigger, also be careful to make sure you have the right PID, I don't think the original part list has the PID part number on it. SSR not contactor

Good luck!

 

[bazowie]

That makes sense.

I put the order in for the RIMS Tube and the fittings. The other stuff will have to wait until next paycheck.

Where did you purchase your RIMS Tube?

 

[misled_drummer]

Where did you purchase your RIMS Tube?

Glacier.

 

[bazowie]

Glacier.

Just wonder, I like Glacier, but I got mine from Stout Tanks came with all the fittings and tri clamps

 

[ArrowHead]

Stout's is a good value, especially if you want 2" pipe. You will need a liquid sensor or a cap for that opening. I am not brewing over 10 gal., so 1 1/2" pipe works for me. Glacier was a good deal, but I wish they priced comparable to Stout.

 

[fc36]

Just wonder, I like Glacier, but I got mine from Stout Tanks came with all the fittings and tri clamps

Stout's is a good value, especially if you want 2" pipe. You will need a liquid sensor or a cap for that opening. I am not brewing over 10 gal., so 1 1/2" pipe works for me. Glacier was a good deal, but I wish they priced comparable to Stout.

I was having trouble with Stout's website and couldn't find a firm quote for their RIMS tube for comparison. Would either of you point me in the right direction?

 

[uberg33k]

I was having trouble with Stout's website and couldn't find a firm quote for their RIMS tube for comparison. Would either of you point me in the right direction?

http://conical-fermenter.com/products/mash-tuns/

Scroll down past all the mash tuns and look at the options at the bottom. It's $150.

 

[misled_drummer]

Still haven't received my RIMS tube. I called Glacier and looks like it's stuck in customs. Luckily, I am in no rush to complete this project.

 

[bazowie]

Still haven't received my RIMS tube. I called Glacier and looks like it's stuck in customs. Luckily, I am in no rush to complete this project.

Customs? Where is it comming from? I live like 5 mile from their shop.

 

[misled_drummer]

Customs? Where is it comming from? I live like 5 mile from their shop.

Maybe you can pick it up for me?

I'm not sure I didn't ask. Figured it was coming from Canada.

 

[misled_drummer]

Anyone have any decently priced switches and extension cord recommendations?

I decided to get a 40A SSR. Auberins suggests I should get a heat sink, so I guess I will do that.

 

[fc36]

Anyone have any decently priced switches and extension cord recommendations?

I decided to get a 40A SSR. Auberins suggests I should get a heat sink, so I guess I will do that.

Just buy your switches from Radio Shack if you're on a time crunch. If not, Mouser.com or Amazon.com has great prices. Obviously, Amazon can sometimes be a little difficult to navigate.

For your extension cord, unlike me who has access to reels and reels of 14AWG color-coded power wires and just about every kind of plug imaginable at work, you may try Menards since their prices are usually better than HD or Lowes.

 

[bazowie]

Maybe you can pick it up for me?

I'm not sure I didn't ask. Figured it was coming from Canada.

Maybe, I live in Portland OR., they are right by the airport.

 

[bazowie]

Anyone have any decently priced switches and extension cord recommendations?

I decided to get a 40A SSR. Auberins suggests I should get a heat sink, so I guess I will do that.

Actually Auberins is where i got all my stuff they are fairly reasonable, 40A is a bit much, I went with their 1/32 PID and a 25A SSR and heat sink and the 4" thermocouple.

 

[misled_drummer]

Alright so 25A SSR and a Heat Sink seems to work for Joey and some others on a typical 120v 15 amp circuit.

I'll do that then. I'll research the switches on Auberins and on Amazon.

 

[bazowie]

So, ive see the wort in and out shown comming in on the Element side on the RIMS for dummies, and on an another comming in on the Thermocouple end, I think the Thermocouple end is better that way it reads first. Any insight on this would be appreciated.

 

[Mtn_Brewer]

So, ive see the wort in and out shown comming in on the Element side on the RIMS for dummies, and on an another comming in on the Thermocouple end, I think the Thermocouple end is better that way it reads first. Any insight on this would be appreciated.

The correct configuration is to have the wort run past the heating element first and then past the thermocouple. This way the SSR will keep the element from scalding the wort. Otherwise, the heating element could be scorching the wort and the PID wouldn't know it until the temp of the main mash started rising. An SSR is able to make quick enough adjustments to keep the temp going through the tube at the desired temp.

 

[bazowie]

The correct configuration is to have the wort run past the heating element first and then past the thermocouple. This way the SSR will keep the element from scalding the wort. Otherwise, the heating element could be scorching the wort and the PID wouldn't know it until the temp of the main mash started rising. An SSR is able to make quick enough adjustments to keep the temp going through the tube at the desired temp.

Thanks, makes sense.

 

[hockypunk]

Thanks for all the info from everyone who has posted. I have one question though. What gauge wire is recommended for inside the control box between the ssr and pid etc. thanks again.

 

[fc36]

Thanks for all the info from everyone who has posted. I have one question though. What gauge wire is recommended for inside the control box between the ssr and pid etc. thanks again.

Easy answer: 14AWG, but it all depends on your element. A typical 1500W 120V element is pulling 12.5 Amps or 15.6 Amps with a 25% safety factor. From the trusty wire size calculator, we can see that a minimum of 14AWG wire will allow us to safely convey almost 16 Amps. I checked it against Ugly's and also another calculator. There are also tons of wire size charts all over the internet.

 

[hockypunk]

Thanks for the response. You're the best.

 

[blaster_54738]

Anybody have a solution for an issue I came up with today while water testing? How do I get the left over water (wort when I brew with it) out of the tube with both of the inputs facing up? Should I take it apart and flip one of the T's the other way so it'll drain out? Or is there an easier way

 

[P-J]

Anybody have a solution for an issue I came up with today while water testing? How do I get the left over water (wort when I brew with it) out of the tube with both of the inputs facing up? Should I take it apart and flip one of the T's the other way so it'll drain out? Or is there an easier way

You definitely need to have one 'T" facing up and the other facing down.

It is also a good idea to use the down facing fitting as your input side so that it fills without trapping air in the RIMS. (of course with the out side vented to air when yo fill it.)

 

[fc36]

Anybody have a solution for an issue I came up with today while water testing? How do I get the left over water (wort when I brew with it) out of the tube with both of the inputs facing up? Should I take it apart and flip one of the T's the other way so it'll drain out? Or is there an easier way

Your best bet is to honestly flip the outlet 90° and also mount your pump with its outlet facing down and have it run right into your RIMS tube, which should be mounted lower. Another alternative, and tons of people do it, is to mount your RIMS vertically with the outlet at the bottom and still have inlet and outlet 180 from each other.

Edit: Like P-J said, you need to avoid dry-firing your element. You can also just run your pump with element off for a minute or two and hold your outlet tubing in your mash tun or a pitcher until all air bubbles are out of it and then hook it up as normal and fire up your RIMS.

 

[blaster_54738]

Your best bet is to honestly flip the outlet 90° and also mount your pump with its outlet facing down and have it run right into your RIMS tube, which should be mounted lower. Another alternative, and tons of people do it, is to mount your RIMS vertically with the outlet at the bottom and still have inlet and outlet 180 from each other.

Edit: Like P-J said, you need to avoid dry-firing your element. You can also just run your pump with element off for a minute or two and hold your outlet tubing in your mash tun or a pitcher until all air bubbles are out of it and then hook it up as normal and fire up your RIMS.

On my test run today I didn't turn the element on till I had all the bubbles out so that dry firing wasn't an issue. Could I just turn the output 90° then and be good to go? Everything worked very well during the test