RIMS Controller Help!

[jasoncampbell34]

I'm trying to get my temperature controller working for a RIMS setup I'm trying to do for my mashes. I seem to be having trouble with the main output. I have a MyPin TA4 controller with a 5-24 DCV input SSR. When the setpoint is above the actual temperature the output light on the controller lights up and I measure 23 DCV across the relay. However, when the setpoint is adjusted below the actual temperature the output light turns off but I still get 23 volts across the relay, which keeps power going to the heating element. Does this mean my controller is bad?? I'm assuming my settings on the controller are right since the output light does as it's supposed to. Please help! It's getting very frustrating. Thanks!

 

[stlbeer]

SSR's by their design will leak voltage. They need to have a load placed on them to operate correctly. Attach an AC device such as a light or a fan to the SSR and you should see the device turn off and on according to the PID operation.

 

[jasoncampbell34]

stlbeer,
Thanks for your reply but let me clarify a few things. I guess my phrase "across the relay" was incorrect. The relay has a 5-24V DC input and can handle a 120V AC output. I have tested the setup using the heating element connected to the SSR and then a lamp connected to the SSR. In both cases, the SSR allowed the heater and lamp to stay on regardless of the output signal from the controller. It seems that I am getting a constant voltage of 23V DC sent to the relay from the controller. I would expect this voltage to be ~0 if the controller output is off and perhaps the 23 volts I see when the controller output is on.

What does it mean when the TA4 controller specifies the Main Output for a SSR as 24V DC + 2 V? Is this the minimum voltage that the controller sends to the relay (i.e. when the output is off)? Or is this the voltage that is sent when the controller output is on?

I hope this makes more sense. Thanks again!

 

[stlbeer]

The 24V DC +/- indicates the output can vary 2V DC from the 24V i.e. 22-26VDC - which it appears might exceed the limits of the SSR's control circuit. I don't think this is the problem though. Which SSR do you have? Can you post the make/model # or a picture of the label and how it's wired up?

Did you get a used SSR? Or have you ever used it in such a way that the hot was connected on one side of the AC and the neutral was connected on the other AC post? The reason I ask is because that's a good way to fry an SSR and when they get fried they do so with the SSR locked in the ON position regardless of what the control circuit is being controlled to do.

Does the TA4 controller have an OUT light on it? That would indicate when the PID is calling for heat. Make sure you have it set for HEAT and set for the probe you are using.

 

[audger]

if you verify that the SSR does in fact turn the light or heater off when you physically remove the signal lines going to the controller, then the problem is with the controller itself.

However, when the setpoint is adjusted below the actual temperature the output light turns off but I still get 23 volts across the relay, which keeps power going to the heating element. Does this mean my controller is bad??

if all the settings are correct, then it could mean it is a bad controller. what is the full model number? its possible that your model is meant to switch a SSR/relay based on current instead of voltage.

is it
TA4-Ixxx
TA4-Rxxx
or
TA4-Sxxx

 

[jasoncampbell34]

Ok, did another measurement to verify when I got home. Whether the main output on the controller is on or off it sends 23V DC to the relay. That makes me think the controller is bad. The controller does have a light to show whether the main output is sending a signal or not. The model # is TA4-SNR.

 

[stlbeer]

So I guess you see the light off And voltage present. According to a data sheet I saw on this PID it is for SSR. I also saw that it should only have 4v for open and 24v for closed. http://www.made-in-china.com/showro...ning-Pid-Temperature-Controller-TA4-SNR-.html

If its showing 23v all the time, even with the out light off then I'd replace the PID.

 

[jasoncampbell34]

Thanks for all the help! I was afraid the controller may have been bad but needed some confirmation. Do either of you have a good recommendation for a replacement since I'll basically be starting over?

 

[P-J]

Auber Instruments

Auber PID SYL-2352
Auber SSR 40A

 

[stlbeer]

What P-J said.

 

[tlb]

Auber makes a fine PID however the MYPIN controller has one additional feature...it displays the temperature in tenths of a degree. The RTD probe or better yet, the RTD kit (if you have good soldering skills)sold by Auber Instruments is the best probe I've found. I build RIMS professionally and have never had a problem with the TA4. It's generally accurate to 1/3 degree. It does sound like you have a bad one though. When you replace it, be real careful on your settings and make sure your SSR to the heating element is good. To see a picture of my RIMS go to *************. The site is still under construction, and the picture is not the most flattering, but it works. It uses the TA4 and the Sestos quad timer.