Partigyle built on second runnings

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kevin58

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Sep 4, 2017
Messages
1,689
Reaction score
1,510
Location
Saginaw
I've never used the partigyle method and could use some help.

Say you want to make two 5 gallon batches and you want the second batch to end up at 1.050ish. When designing your overall recipe what starting OG would you shoot for to get that desired gravity from the second runnings? (1.080-something??)

Also, the second beer will have flaked corn added to the mash... at a ratio of 20% of the grain bill. How do you figure that?
 
I have only did a parti-gyle once so cant help too much, but this spreadsheet might help in figuring things out.

http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Batch_Sparge_and_Party_Gyle_Simulator
the link to the spreadsheet is broke, but this is the spreadsheet
https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=Awr9CWhegsZad.EAw2xXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTExN2pqaDUxBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMyBHZ0aWQDVUlDMV8xBHNlYwNzcg--/RV=2/RE=1522987742/RO=10/RU=http://braukaiser.com/documents/batch_sparge_simulator.xls/RK=2/RS=Iy3H6.LnLc5htFe7oVaA__nob2k-

In general I think things work easier if you do a bigger beer and a smaller with similar characteristic so you can use some of various running to get the gravities you want for each beer. Like do 3 running and use varying amount of wort from each to get your desired starting gravities.
 
I haven't done a very purposeful parti-gyle, but I've looked into it a bunch.

Check this out (and the tables). Also, this.

So from the table, you'd look at making something that, were you to mash & sparge the traditional route, would yield a 1.075 wort.

Make sure you get something with enzymes to work on the flaked corn. I'm not sure what exactly you want with the corn addition, but I'd look at combining it with some 6-row and do a separate mini-mash, then blend the worts. Look at the points per gallon that mini-mash would contribute and consider the volume the combined worts would yield.
 
Last edited:
Usually, I plan partygyle using gravity points. (not O.G.) All the gravity points can be split into the two beers. (and even more if you fly sparge). as long as your first runnings are higher O.G. than your Big Beer pre-Boil gravity.

see this for gravity points explanation : http://beersmith.com/blog/2015/01/30/calculating-original-gravity-for-beer-recipe-design/

how I do it is I plan for my big beer but with 50% more volume. Then I usually hit my gravity for the big beer. (First running only) (around 2/3 of the gravity points goes there) you have to plan a little more than usual also to have enough water for first runnings to be a full batch.

Then I use two batch sparge for the 2 penny, (the best Advice I have is pick one , either volume or gravity) you will have difficulty having the right volume AND gravity with the small beer. (the 1/3 gravity points left goes in the 2-penny)

I have done plenty and the 2 penny is always good and I always finish with 20L but the O.G. of the 2 penny is less important than the big beer for me. (if you want your exact O.G. AND volume, you could steel some worth from the big beer but IMO the big beer is a lot more valuable (I mostly do this when I barrel age))

You really need to jump and start doing it, don't over-engineer it the first time.

If you really want more Points in your second beer, you can add some more grains(2-row) and batch sparge longer (like another short mash) When I did a big tripel I hadded roasted barley in the sparge to make a session stout-ish as an example.

Also, plan for lower efficiency for your big beer, since you won't sparge.

I will try to find my speadsheet tha I usually use to plan that and share it. I'll have to translate it tough, so It might take a couple of days since I need to paint the house this weekend.

Party gyle is a lot of work and prep but its worth it.
 
When I do a small beer, I usually brew two others. One is a big beer, the other is a medium beer and then I dump all of the grain from both into the MT and run 5 gals though it. I don't really try to engineer the small, but I do choose the hops and yeast to get some control. Doing it this way I have had some great smalls and some not so great. But I have also had some smalls that weren't small at all. Doh. :mug: :D
 
Back
Top