• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Never really thought about that. You got a point there. But yeah, I’ve been pulling it off the mash.

*Edit...I guess that’s the wrong answer. I have thought about it, briefly.....with everything like the stir bar and flask sanitized beforehand, I’ve always been willing to accept the wort being at 150 something was enough to kill anything that could outcompete the yeast being pitched into it.

Sorry, but I don’t think that’s right. Clearly if it’s worked for you without massive contamination, then the risk must be low, but below 160F is a danger zone for lots of spoilage bacteria.
 
Sorry, but I don’t think that’s right. Clearly if it’s worked for you without massive contamination, then the risk must be low, but below 160F is a danger zone for lots of spoilage bacteria.
I understand.

Probably bad advice to give but that’s how I do it.

What types of bacteria are we talking about? I’m assuming you mean from the grain.

Some food for thought in this thread:
https://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?12782-time-temp-Killing-beer-bugs
 
Last edited:
I understand.

Probably bad advice to give but that’s how I do it.

What types of bacteria are we talking about? I’m assuming you mean from the grain.

Some food for thought in this thread:
https://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?12782-time-temp-Killing-beer-bugs

Grain, mill, mash tun, ambient environment, anything that isn’t sanitized. Lots of sources.

Link agrees with what I said. 162F for 15 sec is accepted minimum, but 145F for 30+ min with low microbial load appears to work. It’s a silly risk in my opinion, saves maybe 30 min of time? You’re going to boil the wort anyways.
 
Finally brewed a neipa that doesn't look like puddle water. Thanks to everyone who's been sharing and keeping this thread going.
20190303_152417.jpeg
 
Any chance you have the link? I don't see any videos on his instagram

It was in his story so it’s disappeared into the internet ether. I did not take a screen shot but it was a video of his wife Lauren pouring A 50lb bags of grain millers regular rolled oats on top of some grains.
 
It was in his story so it’s disappeared into the internet ether. I did not take a screen shot but it was a video of his wife Lauren pouring A 50lb bags of grain millers regular rolled oats on top of some grains.

Maybe I’m confused, but aren’t those just regular flaked oats?
 
Maybe I’m confused, but aren’t those just regular flaked oats?

Yah just basic rolled/flaked oats. Not super interesting but I thought it was cool to finally confirm that they're using them. I thought it was up in the air. I also saw a bag of Crisp Malt on the ground. I could not make out what it was but did see the letters "ed" on it, which could make it Crisp Naked Oat Malt.

Nothing ground breaking here but it is fun to see since at the brewery you can't make out much. Unlike Trillium, Treehouse has been more secretive in terms of the grain bill, which in part explains why Trillium clones can be found in every craft brewery, whereas Treehouse IPAs still have a uniqueness to them. The yeast also plays a big part as you know.
 
@Dgallo was kind enough to share his creation with me. If you're struggling with your process, listen to him for advice. This is truly THE best HB IPA I've ever had. ZERO off flavors. Massive aroma and flavor. Great mouthfeel. WOW! Well done and keep it up brother!
View attachment 616378

Want!!!!!.......it looks incredible.
 
Grains:
Pilsner Malt - 70%
Flaked wheat - 10%
Flaked oats - 10%
Honey Malt - 5%
Lactose - 5%

Hops:
Denali (4oz) pellets
Citra (2oz) Cryo
Mosaic (2oz) pellet (1oz) Cryo

Fruit
2.5 lbs - Pineapple
1.5 lbs - mango
1.0 lb - peaches

Adjuct
Tincture: 2.0 oz of stoli Vanilla and 3 Beans scraped and diced.

Hop sched
-1.0 oz citra cryo @fo

Hop stand/whirlpool - 60 mins
-2.0 oz Mosiac pellet @ 150
-1.0 oz Denali pellet @ 150
-0.5 oz Mosiac cryo @ 150

Fruit was froze then smashed and added to the on day 4 of fermentation with the 1lb of lactose with 1.25 cups of water

Dryhop - three days til keg
-3 oz Denali pellet
-0.5 oz Mosiac cry

2nd Dryhop - one day til keg
-1.0 oz citra cryo

Tincture added at kegging
 
Hi all,

Apologies if this has been discussed or if there’s another thread on the topic:

For those of you kegging, what is your preferred method of carbonating for NEIPAs? I typically force carbonate either quickly by agitating the keg or over the course of 3 days at 30psi or so. I have a fully fermented beer that is dry hopping now. I’m considering using some gyle or krausen to increase softness and perhaps hop character(??). Is it worth the effort? I would need to brew a mini batch for this.
 
Hi all,

Apologies if this has been discussed or if there’s another thread on the topic:

For those of you kegging, what is your preferred method of carbonating for NEIPAs? I typically force carbonate either quickly by agitating the keg or over the course of 3 days at 30psi or so. I have a fully fermented beer that is dry hopping now. I’m considering using some gyle or krausen to increase softness and perhaps hop character(??). Is it worth the effort? I would need to brew a mini batch for this.
I force carb through agitation because I’m impatient and like trying my beer 30 mins after I rack it in the keg. I’ve never done natural keg carbing myself but I know from time to time @couchsending will use krausening to naturally carb his beers. He will be a good resource
 
Last edited:
For those of you kegging, what is your preferred method of carbonating for NEIPAs? I typically force carbonate either quickly by agitating the keg or over the course of 3 days at 30psi or so. I have a fully fermented beer that is dry hopping now. I’m considering using some gyle or krausen to increase softness and perhaps hop character(??). Is it worth the effort? I would need to brew a mini batch for this.

I typically do the 30psi and shake method for one day, purge and turn it down to 10 where it sits for 2 days.
 
I never do the high PSI and shake method. I’ve found that at lower temps the beer will carb up much faster and it tends to mature a little
Faster. I have a lagering chest freezer that I keep at 31. I generally carbonate in there.

I’ve krausened a lot of beers, especially lagers. I think the mouthfeel is different for sure. Theres a krausening calculator on brewer’s friend. I’ll force transfer it into the keg on a scale from a conical that’s fermenting. Measure the volume by weight.
 
Has anyone used a carbing stone corny keg lid with a NEIPA? Any recommendation on usage or pressure?
 
Does anyone in this thread know why a brewer would pitch old yeast in the whirlpool and also a dose of yeast nutrition.
Could it be for flavor?
 
....For those of you kegging, what is your preferred method of carbonating for NEIPAs? I typically force carbonate either quickly by agitating the keg or over the course of 3 days at 30psi or so. I have a fully fermented beer that is dry hopping now. I’m considering using some gyle or krausen to increase softness and perhaps hop character(??). Is it worth the effort? I would need to brew a mini batch for this.

I have not krausened yet but have spunded, primed, and force carbonated (the slow way). Either way, beer benefits most from the time needed to do any of these techniques. Foam/carbonation seems to be better in beers I take my time with. My guess would be, if done right and recipes executed the same, it would be hard to tell the difference between the three techniques when the beer is in its prime. Krausening, I cant speak for. So far...I prefer force carbonation.
 
Hi all,

Apologies if this has been discussed or if there’s another thread on the topic:

For those of you kegging, what is your preferred method of carbonating for NEIPAs? I typically force carbonate either quickly by agitating the keg or over the course of 3 days at 30psi or so. I have a fully fermented beer that is dry hopping now. I’m considering using some gyle or krausen to increase softness and perhaps hop character(??). Is it worth the effort? I would need to brew a mini batch for this.
If I'm not in a hurry, which is about half the time, I add 2 oz of corn sugar to the keg and let it sit at room temp for 2 weeks. I like the results.
 
Thanks for the advice all. I think I’ll meet myself half way and test priming. Next time I will brew some extra wort for krausening.
 
For those who have or are adding lactose, how much are you adding for a 5 gallon batch, and when are you adding it? I see Dgallo is adding at day 4. By then my beer is already in the keg spunding
 
The benefit to krausening is that you’re adding already fermenting beer so it takes a much shorter time for the main beer to carbonate.
 
For those who have or are adding lactose, how much are you adding for a 5 gallon batch, and when are you adding it? I see Dgallo is adding at day 4. By then my beer is already in the keg spunding
You can add your lactose at any point since it is unfermentalble. Some people even add it to the keg and rack ontop of it. I only chose to add it on day 4 since that was when I was adding the fruit and wanted to minimize opportunities for oxygen contact.

Now to your question about how much. I will never add lactose to a traditional IPA or typical NEIPA; It is unneeded since you can gain sweetness and body through mash temps, specialty grains, and hoping schedule. However if your making a milkstout or desert/milkshake ipa than start at a half pound and work your way up. Since it’s unfermentable, if the half lb isn’t enough to your desired taste you can add more to the keg. If you are still bottling, you can do it all to taste in your bottling bucket the first time, just know this will expose the beer to oxygen this way.
 
I picked up some Dream Wave Fluctuation this weekend(equilibrium/Other Half), and it’s the best Neipa I’ve ever had. I know they use lactose in it, and OH likes to go heavy on the oats . So I’d like to experiment a bit with adding lactose and bumping up the oats
 
I picked up some Dream Wave Fluctuation this weekend(equilibrium/Other Half), and it’s the best Neipa I’ve ever had. I know they use lactose in it, and OH likes to go heavy on the oats . So I’d like to experiment a bit with adding lactose and bumping up the oats
Dream wave is part of OH’s oat cream ipa series so they def are using lactose in it. I bet it’s something like 75 % 2row 15% oats 5% honey malt 5% lactose. Maybe even slightly higher on the lactose
 
Dream wave is part of OH’s oat cream ipa series so they def are using lactose in it. I bet it’s something like 75 % 2row 15% oats 5% honey malt 5% lactose. Maybe even slightly higher on the lactose
I found colab beer descriptions from Other Half with up to almost 50% of Oats...
 
I found colab beer descriptions from Other Half with up to almost 50% of Oats...
That sounds absurd to me and like a mash nightmare. But equilibrium knows there stuff and are pretty open about their process so if they said it, it’s true
 
They’re most likely using malted oats or a combo of malted and flaked. You can use higher percentages of oats when using malted. They’re somewhat of a pain to mill and sometimes a little harder to find.
 
They’re most likely using malted oats or a combo of malted and flaked. You can use higher percentages of oats when using malted. They’re somewhat of a pain to mill and sometimes a little harder to find.
That was my thoughts as well, malted oats most part but still 50% is ridiculously high and these guys are masters at marketing.
Just like some breweries claim to dry hop with 6 pounds per barrel... I really wonder how much of this is true and how much is just marketing.
 
The benefit to krausening is that you’re adding already fermenting beer so it takes a much shorter time for the main beer to carbonate.

Your already practicing patience with your beer...lagering/conditioning. Clearing.

People rush...8-10 days grain to glass and so on.
 
Your already practicing patience with your beer...lagering/conditioning. Clearing.

People rush...8-10 days grain to glass and so on.

Yes but I’d rather only have it sitting at room temp to carbonate for 5-7 days instead of 14 when priming.
 
That was my thoughts as well, malted oats most part but still 50% is ridiculously high and these guys are masters at marketing.
Just like some breweries claim to dry hop with 6 pounds per barrel... I really wonder how much of this is true and how much is just marketing.

I don't think its that unrealistic.. My last neipa I dry hopped with 10 ounces for a 5 gal batch. 6 pounds in a barrel is just slightly more oz/gal then mine. (mine is 2 oz/gal, that is 2.2 oz/gal)
It is a straight fruit bomb. Other homebrewers/craft beer drinkers think I put fruit in it. There may be a few outliers that lie (pun intended) about dry hopping, but there are some super dry hopped beers I've drank lately. Especially from local breweries.

That being said, it is overkill IMO and I will tone it down a bit next time, but it is delicious none the less
 
Yes but I’d rather only have it sitting at room temp to carbonate for 5-7 days instead of 14 when priming.

Time is definitely of the essence. A friend brewed and had to bottle.. tried one at a week and it had turned a nasty purple-brown. Makes me think that this style isn't really worth bottling considering what a batch costs (at least in my case)
 
I don't think its that unrealistic.. My last neipa I dry hopped with 10 ounces for a 5 gal batch. 6 pounds in a barrel is just slightly more oz/gal then mine. (mine is 2 oz/gal, that is 2.2 oz/gal)
It is a straight fruit bomb. Other homebrewers/craft beer drinkers think I put fruit in it. There may be a few outliers that lie (pun intended) about dry hopping, but there are some super dry hopped beers I've drank lately. Especially from local breweries.

That being said, it is overkill IMO and I will tone it down a bit next time, but it is delicious none the less
you’re also not trying to make a living, pay a lease or mortgage on a commercial property, and keep the lights on by selling pints lol
 
Time is definitely of the essence. A friend brewed and had to bottle.. tried one at a week and it had turned a nasty purple-brown. Makes me think that this style isn't really worth bottling considering what a batch costs (at least in my case)
They’re talking about natural carbing kegs with krausen or priming sugar verse force carbing
 
you’re also not trying to make a living, pay a lease or mortgage on a commercial property, and keep the lights on by selling pints lol

Being that it says you're from albany, Im sure you have tried Foreign Objects? Some of their beers are a good example of what I mean. But it definitely applies to more local breweries near me. (Hitchhikers, Dancing Gnome, Eleventh Hour if you have an untappd)
 
You can add your lactose at any point since it is unfermentalble. Some people even add it to the keg and rack ontop of it. I only chose to add it on day 4 since that was when I was adding the fruit and wanted to minimize opportunities for oxygen contact.

Now to your question about how much. I will never add lactose to a traditional IPA or typical NEIPA; It is unneeded since you can gain sweetness and body through mash temps, specialty grains, and hoping schedule. However if your making a milkstout or desert/milkshake ipa than start at a half pound and work your way up. Since it’s unfermentable, if the half lb isn’t enough to your desired taste you can add more to the keg. If you are still bottling, you can do it all to taste in your bottling bucket the first time, just know this will expose the beer to oxygen this way.

Specific reason not to add the Lactose at flameout? I’ve done that with my milkshake IPAs to (seemingly) no ill effects.
 
Back
Top