New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Hannabrew]

I just cut both sides of the aluminum pickup tube with the grinder twice to allow better flow. The tube wants to stick to the fermenter wall when under pressure if not.View attachment 617319

Interesting. No issues with it sucking co2 from above the liquid line with that method? I don't use those in my fermenter but rather the keg

 

[Loud Brewing]

Interesting. No issues with it sucking co2 from above the liquid line with that method? I don't use those in my fermenter but rather the keg

Yeah they work so good, I use them in all my kegs too. No, I have never had any issues with it sucking c02 from above, it intakes from right below the ball just like when in the keg.

 

[marchuk96]

Have you used that hop before?

The descriptions seem like they should good in a NEIPA. I tried it in a golden ale to get a feel for the flavor, I did not get any fruity pebbles. The aroma is more dank with a diesel like smell. I have in my notes that there a bit of funk too.

I also bought some experimental 6297 and that one did have a candy grape flavor. Either the listed AA was wrong or the candy flavor made the beer seem sweet.

Have another golden fermenting now with the two together to see how they pair.

This was the first time using this hop for me which is why I used it on its own...I did get some of the dank diesel characters ur talking about but also some passion fruit and maybe a touch of the "fruity pebbles" ..I feel like its a very potent hop with low alphas and could be the next it hop...either on its own or in combo with others...i love it

 

[NickC]

I also ferment in kegs and have also had good success dry hopping after FG and crashing. When you open the corny top to add dry hops(or ideally right before you open it) blast CO2 into the gas post of the keg. When you open the corny top you'll have positive pressure where the air is being pushed out, thereby not allowing oxygen in. Don't turn the gas off until you've closed the keg back up. This may not reduce oxygen exposure 100% but should do a pretty good job and is the way a lot of commercial breweries add dry hops who don't have the fancy hop cannon contraptions.

Thanks. I don’t think I’ve ever had an oxidized beer before... and I don’t know how based on everyone stressing how critical low oxygen techniques are for this style. Ive even had clogged poppets during transfer before where I’ve literally had to figure out on the fly what the hell was going on... gas spraying beer everywhere, keg lid open, sanitized hands in and out of the keg.... once I got it all figured out and xferred to serving keg I knew the beer was ruined. That beer stayed one of the brightest of all my batches. Unless there’s some other ill effects of oxidation, I don’t know how I’m avoiding it without all of these critical techniques.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Thanks. I don’t think I’ve ever had an oxidized beer before... and I don’t know how based on everyone stressing how critical low oxygen techniques are for this style. Ive even had clogged poppets during transfer before where I’ve literally had to figure out on the fly what the hell was going on... gas spraying beer everywhere, keg lid open, sanitized hands in and out of the keg.... once I got it all figured out and xferred to serving keg I knew the beer was ruined. That beer stayed one of the brightest of all my batches. Unless there’s some other ill effects of oxidation, I don’t know how I’m avoiding it without all of these critical techniques.

People often say that they've never had oxidation because their beer is pretty good, but how would you know that without tasting the exact same batch both ways(under more optimal O2 conditions)? With how fast homebrew is drank, I don't think it's hard to avoid the 'wet cardboard' stage of oxidation unless your process is really bad but that doesn't mean flavor isn't affected at all. Personally, I like to do whatever I can(within reason) to keep my O2 exposure as low as possible

 

[Dgallo]

Thanks. I don’t think I’ve ever had an oxidized beer before... and I don’t know how based on everyone stressing how critical low oxygen techniques are for this style. Ive even had clogged poppets during transfer before where I’ve literally had to figure out on the fly what the hell was going on... gas spraying beer everywhere, keg lid open, sanitized hands in and out of the keg.... once I got it all figured out and xferred to serving keg I knew the beer was ruined. That beer stayed one of the brightest of all my batches. Unless there’s some other ill effects of oxidation, I don’t know how I’m avoiding it without all of these critical techniques.

I’m sure it is happened to you before and you just didn’t know what to look for. Cardboard flavors or even cidery flavors are signs of it. Color is the main thing too. The color will change before the flavor does. Here are a couple pictures to show.
Good color, no oxidation

oxidized

Shot from being oxidatized

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Even before the color goes to hell like that minor oxidation will dull the hop flavors and aroma. NickC, it's a hobby and supposed to be fun so just do it however you enjoy doing it but since you're fermenting in kegs you could keep your system buttoned up real tight with minimal extra effort.

 

[Hannabrew]

Thanks. I don’t think I’ve ever had an oxidized beer before... and I don’t know how based on everyone stressing how critical low oxygen techniques are for this style. Ive even had clogged poppets during transfer before where I’ve literally had to figure out on the fly what the hell was going on... gas spraying beer everywhere, keg lid open, sanitized hands in and out of the keg.... once I got it all figured out and xferred to serving keg I knew the beer was ruined. That beer stayed one of the brightest of all my batches. Unless there’s some other ill effects of oxidation, I don’t know how I’m avoiding it without all of these critical techniques.

You're not. It just may not bother you much

 

[Dgallo]

Even before the color goes to hell like that minor oxidation will dull the hop flavors and aroma. NickC, it's a hobby and supposed to be fun so just do it however you enjoy doing it but since you're fermenting in kegs you could keep your system buttoned up real tight with minimal extra effort.

I was showing the color since he stated he didn’t think he’s tasted oxidation, that makes me think he wouldn’t be able to identify minor oxidation flavors. Plus most people will show signs of oxidation long before they can taste it. So the slight color change is the first indicator

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Folks here may be interested in two posts I've made over on the Brew Science board about hop oil contents, including a rip of linalool and geraniol content from the YCH list. Will Brewer's Gold, Taurus, Loral and Merkur become the hot new varieties for hoppy beers? Maybe not, but they could be useful for bulking out your hop blend at a reasonable price.

 

[beervoid]

Folks here may be interested in two posts I've made over on the Brew Science board about hop oil contents, including a rip of linalool and geraniol content from the YCH list. Will Brewer's Gold, Taurus, Loral and Merkur become the hot new varieties for hoppy beers? Maybe not, but they could be useful for bulking out your hop blend at a reasonable price.

More juicy info thanks for sharing..
I have heard mixed results from Loral, they got a CRYO version of it though so it must have some magic.

 

[BeerFst]

That was my thoughts as well, malted oats most part but still 50% is ridiculously high and these guys are masters at marketing.
Just like some breweries claim to dry hop with 6 pounds per barrel... I really wonder how much of this is true and how much is just marketing.

Don't forget golden naked oats too. I'm not convinced they dont sub these out for honey or similar crystal in this 50%+ beers.

 

[NickC]

Even before the color goes to hell like that minor oxidation will dull the hop flavors and aroma. NickC, it's a hobby and supposed to be fun so just do it however you enjoy doing it but since you're fermenting in kegs you could keep your system buttoned up real tight with minimal extra effort.

Ahh, dull hop flavors. Now I have experienced that too many times... Me saying I haven’t experienced oxidation was only in regard to the two commonly referred symptoms of color and cardboard flavor. Don’t get me wrong, I’m still aiming to keep exposure low or eliminated - one of the main reasons I switched to fermenting in kegs was for closed transfers. What are other symptoms of oxidation?

This may be why I haven’t consistently gotten the juice bombs. My theory was stale hops.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

My theory was stale hops.

Hops become stale due to oxidation....

 

[NickC]

Hops become stale due to oxidation....

I guess I didn’t realize they can become stale during the brew process. I’d always taken that statement as they can become stale/oxidized because of poor storage.

 

[Hannabrew]

Oxygen stalls everything thus why it should be avoided at all cost on the cold side

 

[jakturner]

I’m sure it is happened to you before and you just didn’t know what to look for. Cardboard flavors or even cidery flavors are signs of it. Color is the main thing too. The color will change before the flavor does. Here are a couple pictures to show.
Good color, no oxidation
View attachment 617362
oxidized
View attachment 617363
Shot from being oxidatized
View attachment 617365

What’s your grain bill for that first picture? I’m liking that color.

 

[murphyslaw]

What’s your grain bill for that first picture? I’m liking that color.

+1

 

[Dgallo]

What’s your grain bill for that first picture? I’m liking that color.

If I recall correctly it was
10lb Pilsner
4lb Maris
2 lb flaked wheat
.25lb cara Munich

Don’t have it in my notes.

 

[beervoid]

+1

Beers looks orange juicy.
Aside from the right grainbill the colour pops extra due to the fall of the light on the beer.

 

[Dgallo]

Beers looks orange juicy.
Aside from the right grainbill the colour pops extra due to the fall of the light on the beer.

Using a late summer sunset to my advantage for sure

 

[jakturner]

Using a late summer sunset to my advantage for sure

Is caramunich something you regularly use? I’ve tried a quarter lb of honey, crystal 10 and 20, and aromatic malt. I think I like the aromatic the most. Maybe I’ll give caramunich a try, I’m guessing you use caramunich l? Caramunich ll is probably too dark.

 

[Dgallo]

Is caramunich something you regularly use? I’ve tried a quarter lb of honey, crystal 10 and 20, and aromatic malt. I think I like the aromatic the most. Maybe I’ll give caramunich a try, I’m guessing you use caramunich l? Caramunich ll is probably too dark.

I use it pretty often. When I use it is cara Munich 1 but I’ve done 2 on occasion but it’s only slightly darker. My typical NEIPA grain bill uses a .5lbs of honey but I do switch it up from time to time with crystals, and biscuit just to have some variations between them.

 

[beervoid]

I use it pretty often. When I use it is cara Munich 1 but I’ve done 2 on occasion but it’s only slightly darker. My typical NEIPA grain bill uses a .5lbs of honey but I do switch it up from time to time with crystals, and biscuit just to have some variations between them.

Do you notice any differences in flavor from them?
I'm of the opinion they dont reallly matter in these small quantities and are used purely for color.
I've tried crystal malts, vienna, munich and melanoidin..

 

[Dgallo]

Do you notice any differences in flavor from them?
I'm of the opinion they dont reallly matter in these small quantities and are used purely for color.
I've tried crystal malts, vienna, munich and melanoidin..

I can notice the difference. Honey seems to give me the most sweetness, Munich the most on the nose and true malt character and biscuit is just a bit cracker and slight malt. If you up them all to .5-.75lb it will be very present. Honey malt is my favorite in a NEIPA, a mix of biscuit and Munich when I do west coasts

 

[jakturner]

Do you notice any differences in flavor from them?
I'm of the opinion they dont reallly matter in these small quantities and are used purely for color.
I've tried crystal malts, vienna, munich and melanoidin..

Honey tends to come across sweeter IMO

 

[stickyfinger]

Has anyone tried taking an NEIPA recipe down to the 4-5% ABV range with good results (thinking of it for a party where people will be wanting to drink several pints)? I am interested in the malt bill you used and how much hopping before it goes astringent.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Has anyone tried taking an NEIPA recipe down to the 4-5% ABV range with good results (thinking of it for a party where people will be wanting to drink several pints)? I am interested in the malt bill you used and how much hopping before it goes astringent.

Local brewery, Suds Monkey, make a 5%er that's top notch. So it can be done...

 

[Northern_Brewer]

There's a lot of New England-influenced beers being brewing in Olde England at traditional British strengths these days - and below. In fact there's a bit of a mini-craze for hoppy "lunchtime" table beers at 2.8-3.2% from the likes of Cloudwater - the new milds? Here's a prize-winning homebrew that was intended for 1.031 but ended up at 1.036 : https://www.brewuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=51763

 

[stickyfinger]

Local brewery, Suds Monkey, make a 5%er that's top notch. So it can be done...

any idea on recipe? whatz it called?

 

[jakturner]

For you guys using fermonsters, are you bagging your dryhops? I usually ferment in kegs with a floating dip tube but I find myself needing to produce a full 5 gallons for some events. I was thinking about buying one with a spigot and pushing it out with co2. Anyone doing this?

 

[stickyfinger]

There's a lot of New England-influenced beers being brewing in Olde England at traditional British strengths these days - and below. In fact there's a bit of a mini-craze for hoppy "lunchtime" table beers at 2.8-3.2% from the likes of Cloudwater - the new milds? Here's a prize-winning homebrew that was intended for 1.031 but ended up at 1.036 : https://www.brewuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=51763

wow, strange recipe. thx for sharing

 

[marchuk96]

For you guys using fermonsters, are you bagging your dryhops? I usually ferment in kegs with a floating dip tube but I find myself needing to produce a full 5 gallons for some events. I was thinking about buying one with a spigot and pushing it out with co2. Anyone doing this?

DEF. NO BAG!!! And that is exactly what I have been doing..Cold crash for 24 hrs....2-3 psi...watch the bung at first and then transfer to keg...slowly and increase psi a bit to prevent collapse of fermonster during the transfer...works like a charm!!

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

any idea on recipe? whatz it called?

Moxie Monkey. IDK the recipe/procedure. I've got to know the owner/head brewer. Maybe overtime I'll learn.

 

[jakturner]

DEF. NO BAG!!! And that is exactly what I have been doing..Cold crash for 24 hrs....2-3 psi...watch the bung at first and then transfer to keg...slowly and increase psi a bit to prevent collapse of fermonster during the transfer...works like a charm!!

Cold crash will be hard for me, I usually do it in the keggerator since I ferment in keg. I never used bags before but I feel like it will be a clogged mess without one. I think I’ll try a closed loop with a water purged keg like the picture below. Then again the bag might get sucked into the spigot and clogg it anyway. Idk maybe I’ll just build one with a floating dip tube

 

[leesmith]

Cold crash will be hard for me, I usually do it in the keggerator since I ferment in keg. I never used bags before but I feel like it will be a clogged mess without one. I think I’ll try a closed loop with a water purged keg like the picture below. Then again the bag might get sucked into the spigot and clogg it anyway. Idk maybe I’ll just build one with a floating dip tubeView attachment 617694

A bag works fine.
Don’t listen to anyone who says not to.
Just make sure it’s big enough to let the hops swim around...and give the keg a good shake a couple times a day.

Get a keg lid with a tab underneath and use butchers twine...boil it first of course. This ensures the bag is secure.
Dental floss through the lid can fail.
And being suspended it can’t clog the dip tube when you transfer.

 

[beervoid]

There's a lot of New England-influenced beers being brewing in Olde England at traditional British strengths these days - and below. In fact there's a bit of a mini-craze for hoppy "lunchtime" table beers at 2.8-3.2% from the likes of Cloudwater - the new milds? Here's a prize-winning homebrew that was intended for 1.031 but ended up at 1.036 : https://www.brewuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=51763

Too bad there was no follow up after the commercial batch was brewed. Makes me wonder if it was not a success? Perhaps ended up with a lower fg.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I don't think it's anything more than BrewUK broke their forums soon afterwards so the thread of conversation was rather lost. But it made it onto Untappd (at 2.5%), so it must be real.

 

[leesmith]

For you guys using fermonsters, are you bagging your dryhops? I usually ferment in kegs with a floating dip tube but I find myself needing to produce a full 5 gallons for some events. I was thinking about buying one with a spigot and pushing it out with co2. Anyone doing this?

Sorry didn’t see this fermonster statement before making my last post.

You could rig up some sort of bag hanger for that also...and use a pretty big bag for them to swim around.

There is really nothing like a clog during transfer to really p*** yourself off...it makes for a great day.

 

[leesmith]

Has anyone tried taking an NEIPA recipe down to the 4-5% ABV range with good results (thinking of it for a party where people will be wanting to drink several pints)? I am interested in the malt bill you used and how much hopping before it goes astringent.

This is just about at 5%, simple, tasty, and a good start:

Emily Once Again...

2.5 Gallons
O.G. 1.046
F.G. 1.008

MASH:
80% (4 lbs. 11.1 oz.) 2-Row
15% (14.1 oz.) White Wheat
5% (4.7 oz.) C20

Mash at 152 F for 60 min

BOIL:
.55 oz. Warrior @60 min for 60 IBUs
.6 g whirlfloc at 5 min.
2.00 oz. Galaxy at flameout

FERMENTATION:
Wyeast 1318

DRY HOPS:
3 oz. Galaxy

WATER:
3 g. Gypsum
1.5 g. Calcium Chloride
1 g. Epsom salt
2 g. Table salt

Lactic acid for a 5.3-5.4ph and then some more preboil for a ph of 5.2.

Ferment and confirm ok with diacetyl test.

Cold crash to 55 or so for two days with gas providing a small amount of head pressure.

Then get it off the yeast and dry hop in the low 60’s for 2-3 days on head pressure.

Then package to carbonate and then cold condition.

One thing you may want to do is mash higher to get it to finish higher...I know people like them sweeter than I do.