New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Loud Brewing]

This is my attempt at the braufessors most recent recipe. Turned out well ballanced and quite delicious. I like the 6oz whirlpool and the 6oz dh, makes it easy and good ballance between the 3 hop varieties at the 3-2-1 ratio.

 

[Genuine]

Here's my twist on an Amber version with 2oz each Amarillo, Mosiac, Citra and then 1oz Centennial in 170 degree whirlpool for 30 min. . Dry hopped on day 2 and day 7 with 1oz each of Amarillo, Mosiac and Citra for a total of 6oz in the dry hop. Used S-04, really happy with it.

 

[leesmith]

A38 Imperial Juice question... The is my first time using both liquid yeast and Juice. All of my previous NEIPA's used Safale-04, and it worked FAST --- active fermentation was pretty much over in 3 days. I'm 5 days in with Juice and it's still bubbling away. Normal?

I did not make a starter bc the LHBS guy said I didn't need one if my OG was 1.060 or under (it was exactly 1.060). Was it a mistake not to make a starter?

At the very least make a brew day quick starter.
Before doing anything on brew day...take the yeast to sit out a room temp.
Draw 800ml of wort off during the mash....cool it to room temp....and then pitch the yeast into it. Then put it on a stir plate; I'll just run the stir plate every now and then to agitate the yeast.
Once, I'm done with brew day....It's usually about 4 hours later and the small starter is getting a krausen or at least showing signs of life....then I pitch it into the wort.

 

[RTE]

I just saw a video on treehousenates Instagram of regular rolled oats going into a grain bill. I need to try using those.

 

[ba-brewer]

I believe the Giga brand VIPA/conan also says up to 1.070 without a starter. It has worked very well for me pitching comando, but seems to lag a bit after some initial airlock activity, then the krausen takes off.

200 BILLION CELLS! LOL

The number of cells advertised by the vendors is what they estimate when fresh, who know how a pouch is handled and stored and what you actually have in your hands.

I have to admit I have pitched smack pack without a starter when I first started brewing, but don't think I would do it again. Most started and made acceptable beer, but I once did two smack packs of mid storage shelf life and had to pitch some dry yeast to save that batch.

 

[isomerization]

At the very least make a brew day quick starter.
Before doing anything on brew day...take the yeast to sit out a room temp.
Draw 800ml of wort off during the mash....cool it to room temp....and then pitch the yeast into it. Then put it on a stir plate; I'll just run the stir plate every now and then to agitate the yeast.
Once, I'm done with brew day....It's usually about 4 hours later and the small starter is getting a krausen or at least showing signs of life....then I pitch it into the wort.

Off the boil right? Not mash as it won’t be sanitized.

 

[couchsending]

If it’s a large enough beer I’ll just add more sparge water and collect the final running’s, boil it for a few minutes, then cool to room temp and make a “vitality” starter with that.

 

[murphyslaw]

I just saw a video on treehousenates Instagram of regular rolled oats going into a grain bill. I need to try using those.

Any chance you have the link? I don't see any videos on his instagram

 

[cheesebach]

Rule # 9: Always Make A Starter when using liquid yeast. What if there were no signs of fermentation, what would you then do? I have received liquid yeast that was in date and never came to life. I won't take that chance again.

Ditto - in fact, just 2 days ago had a pack of imperial darkness dated in January of this year fail to ferment a 1L starter. Not sure what could have happened to that yeast to kill it off completely like that, but glad I made the starter and don’t think I’ll ever skip that step with liquid yeast again.

 

[leesmith]

Off the boil right? Not mash as it won’t be sanitized.

Never really thought about that. You got a point there. But yeah, I’ve been pulling it off the mash.

*Edit...I guess that’s the wrong answer. I have thought about it, briefly.....with everything like the stir bar and flask sanitized beforehand, I’ve always been willing to accept the wort being at 150 something was enough to kill anything that could outcompete the yeast being pitched into it.

 

[isomerization]

Never really thought about that. You got a point there. But yeah, I’ve been pulling it off the mash.

*Edit...I guess that’s the wrong answer. I have thought about it, briefly.....with everything like the stir bar and flask sanitized beforehand, I’ve always been willing to accept the wort being at 150 something was enough to kill anything that could outcompete the yeast being pitched into it.

Sorry, but I don’t think that’s right. Clearly if it’s worked for you without massive contamination, then the risk must be low, but below 160F is a danger zone for lots of spoilage bacteria.

 

[leesmith]

Sorry, but I don’t think that’s right. Clearly if it’s worked for you without massive contamination, then the risk must be low, but below 160F is a danger zone for lots of spoilage bacteria.

I understand.

Probably bad advice to give but that’s how I do it.

What types of bacteria are we talking about? I’m assuming you mean from the grain.

Some food for thought in this thread:
https://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?12782-time-temp-Killing-beer-bugs

 

[isomerization]

I understand.

Probably bad advice to give but that’s how I do it.

What types of bacteria are we talking about? I’m assuming you mean from the grain.

Some food for thought in this thread:
https://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?12782-time-temp-Killing-beer-bugs

Grain, mill, mash tun, ambient environment, anything that isn’t sanitized. Lots of sources.

Link agrees with what I said. 162F for 15 sec is accepted minimum, but 145F for 30+ min with low microbial load appears to work. It’s a silly risk in my opinion, saves maybe 30 min of time? You’re going to boil the wort anyways.

 

[aaron_m]

Finally brewed a neipa that doesn't look like puddle water. Thanks to everyone who's been sharing and keeping this thread going.

 

[RTE]

Any chance you have the link? I don't see any videos on his instagram

It was in his story so it’s disappeared into the internet ether. I did not take a screen shot but it was a video of his wife Lauren pouring A 50lb bags of grain millers regular rolled oats on top of some grains.

 

[isomerization]

It was in his story so it’s disappeared into the internet ether. I did not take a screen shot but it was a video of his wife Lauren pouring A 50lb bags of grain millers regular rolled oats on top of some grains.

Maybe I’m confused, but aren’t those just regular flaked oats?

 

[RTE]

Maybe I’m confused, but aren’t those just regular flaked oats?

Yah just basic rolled/flaked oats. Not super interesting but I thought it was cool to finally confirm that they're using them. I thought it was up in the air. I also saw a bag of Crisp Malt on the ground. I could not make out what it was but did see the letters "ed" on it, which could make it Crisp Naked Oat Malt.

Nothing ground breaking here but it is fun to see since at the brewery you can't make out much. Unlike Trillium, Treehouse has been more secretive in terms of the grain bill, which in part explains why Trillium clones can be found in every craft brewery, whereas Treehouse IPAs still have a uniqueness to them. The yeast also plays a big part as you know.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

@Dgallo was kind enough to share his creation with me. If you're struggling with your process, listen to him for advice. This is truly THE best HB IPA I've ever had. ZERO off flavors. Massive aroma and flavor. Great mouthfeel. WOW! Well done and keep it up brother!

 

[LoneTreeFarms]

@Dgallo was kind enough to share his creation with me. If you're struggling with your process, listen to him for advice. This is truly THE best HB IPA I've ever had. ZERO off flavors. Massive aroma and flavor. Great mouthfeel. WOW! Well done and keep it up brother!
View attachment 616378

Want!!!!!.......it looks incredible.

 

[Dgallo]

Want!!!!!.......it looks incredible.

That can be arranged. I’m at the end of the keg but I will certainly be brewing some type of NE soon so pm me your address and I’ll get if out

 

[jakturner]

That can be arranged. I’m at the end of the keg but I will certainly be brewing some type of NE soon so pm me your address and I’ll get if out

Would you be willing to post your recipe? I wouldn’t mind trying it out.

 

[Dgallo]

Grains:
Pilsner Malt - 70%
Flaked wheat - 10%
Flaked oats - 10%
Honey Malt - 5%
Lactose - 5%

Hops:
Denali (4oz) pellets
Citra (2oz) Cryo
Mosaic (2oz) pellet (1oz) Cryo

Fruit
2.5 lbs - Pineapple
1.5 lbs - mango
1.0 lb - peaches

Adjuct
Tincture: 2.0 oz of stoli Vanilla and 3 Beans scraped and diced.

Hop sched
-1.0 oz citra cryo @fo

Hop stand/whirlpool - 60 mins
-2.0 oz Mosiac pellet @ 150
-1.0 oz Denali pellet @ 150
-0.5 oz Mosiac cryo @ 150

Fruit was froze then smashed and added to the on day 4 of fermentation with the 1lb of lactose with 1.25 cups of water

Dryhop - three days til keg
-3 oz Denali pellet
-0.5 oz Mosiac cry

2nd Dryhop - one day til keg
-1.0 oz citra cryo

Tincture added at kegging

 

[RTE]

Hi all,

Apologies if this has been discussed or if there’s another thread on the topic:

For those of you kegging, what is your preferred method of carbonating for NEIPAs? I typically force carbonate either quickly by agitating the keg or over the course of 3 days at 30psi or so. I have a fully fermented beer that is dry hopping now. I’m considering using some gyle or krausen to increase softness and perhaps hop character(??). Is it worth the effort? I would need to brew a mini batch for this.

 

[Dgallo]

Hi all,

Apologies if this has been discussed or if there’s another thread on the topic:

For those of you kegging, what is your preferred method of carbonating for NEIPAs? I typically force carbonate either quickly by agitating the keg or over the course of 3 days at 30psi or so. I have a fully fermented beer that is dry hopping now. I’m considering using some gyle or krausen to increase softness and perhaps hop character(??). Is it worth the effort? I would need to brew a mini batch for this.

I force carb through agitation because I’m impatient and like trying my beer 30 mins after I rack it in the keg. I’ve never done natural keg carbing myself but I know from time to time @couchsending will use krausening to naturally carb his beers. He will be a good resource

 

[gencinjay]

For those of you kegging, what is your preferred method of carbonating for NEIPAs? I typically force carbonate either quickly by agitating the keg or over the course of 3 days at 30psi or so. I have a fully fermented beer that is dry hopping now. I’m considering using some gyle or krausen to increase softness and perhaps hop character(??). Is it worth the effort? I would need to brew a mini batch for this.

I typically do the 30psi and shake method for one day, purge and turn it down to 10 where it sits for 2 days.

 

[couchsending]

I never do the high PSI and shake method. I’ve found that at lower temps the beer will carb up much faster and it tends to mature a little
Faster. I have a lagering chest freezer that I keep at 31. I generally carbonate in there.

I’ve krausened a lot of beers, especially lagers. I think the mouthfeel is different for sure. Theres a krausening calculator on brewer’s friend. I’ll force transfer it into the keg on a scale from a conical that’s fermenting. Measure the volume by weight.

 

[KyleF318is]

Has anyone used a carbing stone corny keg lid with a NEIPA? Any recommendation on usage or pressure?

 

[beervoid]

Does anyone in this thread know why a brewer would pitch old yeast in the whirlpool and also a dose of yeast nutrition.
Could it be for flavor?

 

[thehaze]

Old yeast is nutrient just like fresh nutrient... No magic trick there.

 

[leesmith]

....For those of you kegging, what is your preferred method of carbonating for NEIPAs? I typically force carbonate either quickly by agitating the keg or over the course of 3 days at 30psi or so. I have a fully fermented beer that is dry hopping now. I’m considering using some gyle or krausen to increase softness and perhaps hop character(??). Is it worth the effort? I would need to brew a mini batch for this.

I have not krausened yet but have spunded, primed, and force carbonated (the slow way). Either way, beer benefits most from the time needed to do any of these techniques. Foam/carbonation seems to be better in beers I take my time with. My guess would be, if done right and recipes executed the same, it would be hard to tell the difference between the three techniques when the beer is in its prime. Krausening, I cant speak for. So far...I prefer force carbonation.