New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[WiscoBrewer]

Brewed over the weekend and tried something new in my process. I usually do .25oz columbus@60 and .75 columbus@10. I decided to try a 30 min boil vs the usual 60 min. So i did .5oz columbus@30 and .5 columbus@10. I then changed my usual 30 min whirlpool to a 60 min whirlpool. added 10oz of hops (10 gallon batch) for the whirlpool. The goal was more contact time with the beer in the kettle to try and bring out more flavor. Read something about it in another thread so figured I would try it. Reduced the boil time to compensate for the longer whirlpool time and still keep my brew day at the same length. Also got less evaporation that way, so more went into the fermenter.

I split into 2 fermenters and will dry hop tonight at 48 hrs.

This is something I've been tossing around for awhile now, the 30min boil anyway. Curious how this turns out. I was going to leave the whirlpool at the same amount of time though. As far as having more in the fermenter, did you adjust your mash/sparge volumes to compensate for boil off?

 

[WiscoBrewer]

Okay…… This is just kind of an “update post”. The original recipe is great as is… but, here are some slightly different things I have started to do, minor changes, observations, etc. After a certain amount of time, you cannot edit a post – so I can’t really get in to make changes to the OP. I do think I can get this post linked into the OP though. Some of what follows is basically the same as the OP…. Some is different and updated. I will put the updated parts in bold italics



**I brew 6.5 gallons of finished beer (post boil)..... this allows me to leave some hop/trub behind in boil kettle and fermenter and get 5 gallons eventually into serving keg. If you finish with 5 gallons post boil, you might want to adjust hops down a bit.

6.5 gallons post boil

5.75 gallons into fermenter

5 gallons into keg



GRAIN BILL:

1.060 OG…. I think this makes a perfect compromise between getting into DIPA range (having beers that are just too high in abv. for my preference) and going too far toward 1.050 where the beer may become too much of a “session” IPA for some peoples preferences.



% and the actual amt. I use for 6.5 gallons @ 84% mash efficiency (your efficiency may vary – so use the percentages)



40% Rahr 2 Row (5.5 lbs)

40% Golden Promise (or similar…Maris Otter) (5.5 lbs)

8% Flaked Oats (1 lb)

4% Flaked Barley 1/2 lb)

4% Weyerman Wheat (1/2 lb)

2% Flaked Wheat (1/4 lb)

2% Honey Malt (1/4 lb)



60 minute mash @152-154)



*Note on grain…. Using all 2 Row for Base is probably fine. Using any combination of flaked Oats/Wheat/Barley to get into the 15-20% range is proably fine too. I do like the addition of Honey Malt and recommend keeping it.



HOPS:

**60 Min. = .75 oz Warrior

**Flame Out = 1oz. each of Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic

**Chill to 160 or below and add 1oz. each of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Stop chiller and allow hops to sit for 30 minute or so. Stir up/whirlpool wort every 5 minutes or so.

Chill to 62-64 and let hops settle out as much as possible. Transfer wort to fermenter. I tend to leave behind .75 gallons of trub and hops (this is why I brew 6.5 gallon batch).



**Dry Hop #1- At day 4-6 (basically when there are a few gravity points left and beer is still fermenting). Add the following to primary fermenter:

1.5 oz. Citra

1 oz. Mosaic

.5 oz. Galaxy



**Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to CO2 purged dry hopping keg with

1.5 oz. Citra

1 oz. Mosaic

.5 oz. Galaxy

(I use this strategy: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09...no-oxygen.html )



Day 14 - Jump from Dry hop keg to serving keg. Force carbonate to moderate/moderate-low. For carbonation, I usually hook it up at 25 psi for 2 days and then back it off to 10-12 psi - generally seems to carb up best after a few days, but fine to drink after 2-3 days.





Many folks who don't keg, or don't have a dry hopping keg ask about adding all the hops to primary, or adding all the hops in a single dry hop..... that isn't what I do, but you have to make things fit your system and your process. Others do it with fine success. There is no reason it should not work to do that if it fits your system better



WATER PROFILE:

There are multiple directions to go here. Currently, I am partial to the following water addtions - 100% RO water. I add per gallon of mash and sparge water -

Gypsum = .9 grams/gallon

CaCl = .4 grams/gallon

Epsom = .1 gram/gallon

Canning Salt = .05 grams/gallon





Lactic Acid = I add about .5ml- 1ml (total) of lactic acid to the mash and the sparge. And may adjust a bit more…. Aiming for about 5.35-5.45 mash pH and Preboil kettle pH.



Using B'run Water



Ca = 100

Mg = 5

Na = 13

Sulfate = 147

Chloride = 80

Bicarbonate = 16



Mash pH = 5.37-5.42

Final runnings pH = 5.60

Pre-boil Kettle pH = 5.40-5.45

Post Boil pH = 5.3-5.35



**Water strategies to test out for yourself to see what you like best;

2:1 Sulfate:Chloride in the 150:75 range

1:1 Sulfate:Chloride in the 120-150 range

1:2 Sulfate:Chloride in the 75:150 range

All will produce a good beer… but you may find something you personally prefer.

I did go 200 sulfate:50 Cl…… it was fine…. But, it was not what I was looking for. It definitely “dried” the beer out a bit. I think it definitely moved this beer away from what most of us are shooting for in a “Ne IPA.”



Water Profile - the simple solution:

***Many people ask about a more general guide to water because they do not know what their own water profile is, or they have not made the jump to using a water profile software. I use B'run water, and the above profile. However, if you just want to get in the ballpark of something "similar" to start with..... The simplest solution is this:

100% RO water for both mash and sparge.

Per 5 gallons of mash water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum

Per 5 gallons of sparge water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum



This should bring you in around 140 Chloride and 80 Sulfate.



Or….. to try other versions….

*The opposite: 1tsp of gypsum and ½ tsp of CaCl per 5 gallon

*Equal ratios: ¾ - 1 tsp of each per 5 gallon.



This does not take into account trying to get Na or Mg numbers. It ignores bicarbonate and as it is 100% RO, it should bring your mash pH in around 5.41 without any acid addition.



ROUGH estimate of grams to tsp of minerals:

1/4 tsp Gypsum = .9 grams

1/4 tsp CaCl = 1.1 grams

1/4 tsp Epsom Salt = 1.3 grams

1/4 tsp Canning Salt = 1.8 grams





FERMENTATION

Yeast - Conan(vermont IPA), 1318 is also a yeast many choose to use in beers like this. *** I have also found that 1272 works great. I am starting to think that there are many yeasts that would likely do just fine in beers like this. 1056, 1450, 007…. I would not be afraid to try other yeasts.

I tend to start fermentation off around 62-64 at let it free rise to 66-68 degrees through the first 3 days or so of fermentation. At that point, I like to move it somewhere that it can finish off in the 68-70-72 range.



OTHER THOUGHTS/NOTES:



I keep almost everything the same in brewing IPA's to this style. However, I do mix up the hops. I always bitter with warrior (Columbus on occasion), and always use 4 sets of 3 ounce additions at Flameout, Whirlpool, Dry Hop #1, Dry Hop #2....... but, not always the same hops. I sometimes do 100% Citra. I sometimes do equal parts of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy for all 4 additions (Grapefruit!!!!), I some times do equal parts (1.5 ounces) citra/mosaic at all 4 additions... But always the same basic amount, in the same basic schedule.

I think single hop versions of Mosaic or Galaxy would potentially be quite good. I have done 2:1 Citra:Columbus that was good. I like Simcoe/Amarillo/Centennial (but I keep centennial out of the dry hop as I find it “drying”). I have used Citra/Azacca – which was good (although Azacca can get lost as it is not as “strong” as some of the others). Personally, I think dank hops like Columbus, Eureka, etc. can get out of hand in beers like this and come off as harsh and grassy….. so, I tend to really limit them to smaller amounts. Lots of combos will work….. but, at the end of the day I still find it very hard to beat Citra:Mosaic:Galaxy combos.

Curious what everyone has done for a water:grist ratio? Have you messed around with this at all? I realize that Brulosophy has done experiments that indicate no perceivable difference, just curious. I'm usually at 1.3qt/lb.

 

[Sbe2]

Brewed over the weekend and tried something new in my process. I usually do .25oz columbus@60 and .75 columbus@10. I decided to try a 30 min boil vs the usual 60 min. So i did .5oz columbus@30 and .5 columbus@10. I then changed my usual 30 min whirlpool to a 60 min whirlpool. added 10oz of hops (10 gallon batch) for the whirlpool. The goal was more contact time with the beer in the kettle to try and bring out more flavor. Read something about it in another thread so figured I would try it. Reduced the boil time to compensate for the longer whirlpool time and still keep my brew day at the same length. Also got less evaporation that way, so more went into the fermenter.

I split into 2 fermenters and will dry hop tonight at 48 hrs.

Really interested in reading your results. I have pondered doing this, 30 min boil, but am stuck in my ways for some reason. Anything to cut some time off of my brew day/morning would be great with a 2 yr old running around.

 

[elbinwyp]

Really interested in reading your results. I have pondered doing this, 30 min boil, but am stuck in my ways for some reason. Anything to cut some time off of my brew day/morning would be great with a 2 yr old running around.

I have done this multiple times with success.

 

[MMJfan]

I think this recipe might be added to my brew list.

I don't have time to read thru the 400+ posts but is the recipe from the OP pretty much still the go to?

 

[dukedevil0]

I think this recipe might be added to my brew list.

I don't have time to read thru the 400+ posts but is the recipe from the OP pretty much still the go to?

In the first post, OP linked to his latest recipe which is here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7701386&postcount=1418

 

[EndOfLine]

Curious what everyone has done for a water:grist ratio? Have you messed around with this at all? I realize that Brulosophy has done experiments that indicate no perceivable difference, just curious. I'm usually at 1.3qt/lb.

I do no sparges for every beer I make. So, with my equipment/system, I need 10 gallons of water in my mash, to have close to 5.5 - 6 gallons of finished wort.

I use RO or distilled water. So with added salts and acid malt, my mash PH is perfect. If you are using tap water, you may need to add a lot more acid to get into range.

 

[centrical]

Curious what everyone has done for a water:grist ratio? Have you messed around with this at all? I realize that Brulosophy has done experiments that indicate no perceivable difference, just curious. I'm usually at 1.3qt/lb.

1.25. Sometimes I do thicker so I can add a gallon of 200f water to "mash out" and not get it too think at that point.

 

[Braufessor]

Curious what everyone has done for a water:grist ratio? Have you messed around with this at all? I realize that Brulosophy has done experiments that indicate no perceivable difference, just curious. I'm usually at 1.3qt/lb.

I think it makes little or no difference at all as long as it is not way too much or too little.

I have about 1 gallon of dead space under my mash screen. If I do a beer with under 10 pounds of grain, I use 4 gallons of water. If it is over 10 pounds I use 5 gallons...... So, I will use 5 gallons for 11-12-13-14 pounds. I never bother to even figure out the pound/quart ratio.

If I was doing something with a big grain bill, I might work it out a little more precisely to make sure I had enough room in my mash tun, etc. Otherwise, if it is anywhere in the ball park, I think it makes almost zero difference.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I have pondered doing this, 30 min boil, but am stuck in my ways for some reason. Anything to cut some time off of my brew day/morning would be great with a 2 yr old running around.

Try it. The main reasons for doing 60+ minutes are traditionally held to be :

Efficiency of alpha extraction - but it's not much greater than at 30 min, just add a dime's worth of extra bittering hops.

Quality of bittering - some argue that the bittering needs a full 60 min to smooth out. This is one for you to taste or not.

DMS - the argument is that the extra half hour reduces the residual DMS from something like 40% of the starting DMS to 20% - and a 90 minute boil would be even better. 6-row has far more DMS precursors than 2-row, very pale malts like pilsner are a bit worse than standard pale. However a Brulosophy experiment found people couldn't tell the difference between pilsner malt boiled for 30min and 90min, and then measured the DMS properly and couldn't find any in the 30 min beer. It's just one data point, but it suggests that DMS is less of a problem with modern agronomy/malting than it's sometimes made out.

You could further shorten your day by moving to no-chill. Not only do you save the time spent chilling, they say you should move all your hop additions forward 20 minutes to compensate for the residual heating in the no-chill cube. It's for you to decide whether you want to also take another 20 minutes off the DMS reduction period....

Try it - I'm in the middle of doing some experiments with short boils. At this stage I _think_ I can taste a slight change in the bitterness, but nothing that's particularly unacceptable. My feeling is that I might do the long boil for a competition entry, particularly something like a helles where you're using a lot of pilsner malt and there's nowhere to hide off flavours - but for ordinary house pale ales then the quicker brew day is worth it. That's still a feeling-in-progress though.

 

[jammin]

Another reason for a "full boil" is to develop melanoidens in the wort. Some brewers swear by a 90min boil for this reason and feel and imparts a noticeable character in the finished beer

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Again that feels like a significant time penalty for marginal gains over what you could achieve with just a bit of Munich etc in the grist. Is it quite the same? No - but good enough, certainly for "drinking" beer.

 

[jammin]

^gotta love the extremes in this thread. People freaking about LoDo to trying save 30 themselves minutes

 

[elbinwyp]

^gotta love the extremes in this thread. People freaking about LoDo to trying save 30 themselves minutes

Saving 30 minutes on the mash, 30 minutes on the boil, and 30 minutes by chilling overnight allows me to brew on a weeknight. Brewing on a weeknight allows me to brew :rockin:

 

[Sbe2]

Try it - I'm in the middle of doing some experiments with short boils. At this stage I _think_ I can taste a slight change in the bitterness, but nothing that's particularly unacceptable. My feeling is that I might do the long boil for a competition entry, particularly something like a helles where you're using a lot of pilsner malt and there's nowhere to hide off flavours - but for ordinary house pale ales then the quicker brew day is worth it. That's still a feeling-in-progress though.

It's probably that I am stuck in my ways. The only boil addition that I do anymore is a 1/4 oz FWH.

I will on do it on my next brew which will be a NEIPA with only hops that I have grown (Galena).

 

[Braufessor]

Saving 30 minutes on the mash, 30 minutes on the boil, and 30 minutes by chilling overnight allows me to brew on a weeknight. Brewing on a weeknight allows me to brew :rockin:

The longer I brew (20 years) the more certain I am that the primary differences we might find in process really comes down to the above^^^

Once you get past things like decent sanitation, use of reasonable ingredients, water and recipes, and gross process errors/negligence..... 90% of the differences we debate with and among ourselves really comes down to nothing more than what works within the parameters of our own system.

There are a lot of paths to the same destination. Ultimately, the best path has less to do with tangible results and more to do with what works best for our own systems, time, brew day, etc.

 

[grassfeeder]

The longer I brew (20 years) the more certain I am that the primary differences we might find in process really comes down to the above^^^

Once you get past things like decent sanitation, use of reasonable ingredients, water and recipes, and gross process errors/negligence..... 90% of the differences we debate with and among ourselves really comes down to nothing more than what works within the parameters of our own system.

There are a lot of paths to the same destination. Ultimately, the best path has less to do with tangible results and more to do with what works best for our own systems, time, brew day, etc.

Couldn't agree with this more.

 

[RicardoBrittoni]

The longer I brew (20 years) the more certain I am that the primary differences we might find in process really comes down to the above^^^

Once you get past things like decent sanitation, use of reasonable ingredients, water and recipes, and gross process errors/negligence..... 90% of the differences we debate with and among ourselves really comes down to nothing more than what works within the parameters of our own system.

There are a lot of paths to the same destination. Ultimately, the best path has less to do with tangible results and more to do with what works best for our own systems, time, brew day, etc.

Perfect reply, I think I shed a tear on this one.

 

[Braufessor]

Perfect reply, I think I shed a tear on this one.

That's what I do - I drink and I know things

 

[stickyfinger]

Try it. The main reasons for doing 60+ minutes are traditionally held to be :


DMS - the argument is that the extra half hour reduces the residual DMS from something like 40% of the starting DMS to 20% - and a 90 minute boil would be even better. 6-row has far more DMS precursors than 2-row, very pale malts like pilsner are a bit worse than standard pale. However a Brulosophy experiment found people couldn't tell the difference between pilsner malt boiled for 30min and 90min, and then measured the DMS properly and couldn't find any in the 30 min beer. It's just one data point, but it suggests that DMS is less of a problem with modern agronomy/malting than it's sometimes made out.

I would argue that the Brulosophy exBeeriment in which they had the DMS measured by a lab is inconclusive. We don't know the detection limits of the instrument, so we can't conclude it is below the flavor threshold. The taste part of it would seem to indicate that is true, but the analysis part is inconclusive in my opinion.

 

[tld6008]

I think it makes little or no difference at all as long as it is not way too much or too little.

I have about 1 gallon of dead space under my mash screen. If I do a beer with under 10 pounds of grain, I use 4 gallons of water. If it is over 10 pounds I use 5 gallons...... So, I will use 5 gallons for 11-12-13-14 pounds. I never bother to even figure out the pound/quart ratio.

If I was doing something with a big grain bill, I might work it out a little more precisely to make sure I had enough room in my mash tun, etc. Otherwise, if it is anywhere in the ball park, I think it makes almost zero difference.

How do you figure your strike water temperature without considering water/grain ratio especially if you dump 5 gal in for 11-12-13-14 lbs?
Unless you heat it all together?

 

[Deckers_Beers]

Long time lurker here, & I have a weird situation w/my 2nd NEIPA batch. It came out clear!!!!

So I brewed a NEIPA about 6 months prior to this batch & harvested the yeast (my first time harvesting). That batch had ~7 oz's of dry hops in 5 gallons, & the yeast cake was pretty green, even after many decantings. Anyway, made a starter before I brewed again, so I knew everything was viable.

Now that the beer is ready, it's clear.... The only big changes between this recipe & the last was adding some MO, honey malt, & flaked oats, which should, if anything, make it more opaque. The last batch was murky AF.

Has anyone had this experience before?

 

[hezagenius]

Long time lurker here, & I have a weird situation w/my 2nd NEIPA batch. It came out clear!!!!

So I brewed a NEIPA about 6 months prior to this batch & harvested the yeast (my first time harvesting). That batch had ~7 oz's of dry hops in 5 gallons, & the yeast cake was pretty green, even after many decantings. Anyway, made a starter before I brewed again, so I knew everything was viable.

Now that the beer is ready, it's clear.... The only big changes between this recipe & the last was adding some MO, honey malt, & flaked oats, which should, if anything, make it more opaque. The last batch was murky AF.

Has anyone had this experience before?

The most likely culprit is not dry hopping enough during active fermentation. Thatscwhat happened on my latest batch. I did 10oz of dry hops on day 4 when SG was 1.011. My FG was 1.010. I have a slight haze but nothing close to how murky mine usually are. I had maybe 20-30% oats and wheat.

 

[Braufessor]

How do you figure your strike water temperature without considering water/grain ratio especially if you dump 5 gal in for 11-12-13-14 lbs?
Unless you heat it all together?

I heat my water to 162 every time. I dump whatever grain I am using into whatever amount of water I am using and mix it in thoroughly. It always falls somewhere between 150-155...... there just is not much difference in the outcome ... .not enough to worry about. At least not for me. I would doubt anyone could consistently pick out beers mashed at 151 vs 154 in a triangle test.

***Note - I brew 60-70 batches of beer per year on my system.... so, I have gotten to the point where much of it is "automatic" in terms of what I know happens with my system. That is not the case for everyone, and it is probably worth a little more precision when you are getting to know what your own system does and does not do under different conditions.

 

[Braufessor]

So I brewed a NEIPA about 6 months prior to this batch & harvested the yeast ......even after many decantings.

What do you mean by "after many decanting"????

Are you referring to your harvesting methods? The reason I ask is that if you were "washing/rinsing" your yeast multiple times in hopes of getting "clean" yeast.... what you may have done is "select" for the most flocculant yeast that kept falling out of suspension the fastest. If that is the case, perhaps it is simply that you selected a yeast population that drops out more than the original population.... Just a guess.... maybe that is not what you were referring to.

 

[runs4beer]

How do you figure your strike water temperature without considering water/grain ratio especially if you dump 5 gal in for 11-12-13-14 lbs?
Unless you heat it all together?

My strike water volume is based on my batch size not grist weight. For my system the bigger the grain bill the thicker the mash should be to avoid losing efficiency (if I'm going to sparge). I learned this method from a professional and it makes brewing easier, it sounds like the same approach Brufessor has.
I have two marks on the sight glass for my MLT: 12 and 6 gallons brew lengths.
I use a strike water calculator to determine strike water temperature
This is a simple standalone one
https://www.appbrewers.com/mashvol

 

[EndOfLine]

I heat my water to 162 every time. I dump whatever grain I am using into whatever amount of water I am using and mix it in thoroughly. It always falls somewhere between 150-155...... there just is not much difference in the outcome ... .not enough to worry about. At least not for me. I would doubt anyone could consistently pick out beers mashed at 151 vs 154 in a triangle test.

***Note - I brew 60-70 batches of beer per year on my system.... so, I have gotten to the point where much of it is "automatic" in terms of what I know happens with my system. That is not the case for everyone, and it is probably worth a little more precision when you are getting to know what your own system does and does not do under different conditions.

I do something similar with my full volume mashing (no sparge) I heat 10 gallons of water to 160f, add my salts, add grain, and it will be around 154-158f

 

[Deckers_Beers]

What do you mean by "after many decanting"????

Are you referring to your harvesting methods? The reason I ask is that if you were "washing/rinsing" your yeast multiple times in hopes of getting "clean" yeast.... what you may have done is "select" for the most flocculant yeast that kept falling out of suspension the fastest. If that is the case, perhaps it is simply that you selected a yeast population that drops out more than the original population.... Just a guess.... maybe that is not what you were referring to.

I meant pouring the clear liquid off the top of the yeast cake in the jar, after it's been sitting in the fridge for awhile. I had the experience of decanting more liquid off of the yeast cake probably 6 different times, over the course of a few months.

I just looked up "yeast washing," & I did not do that. So I'm assuming there was a lot of hop particulate & trub in the yeast cake, which might be the culprit. Although, I still don't see how...

 

[Deckers_Beers]

The most likely culprit is not dry hopping enough during active fermentation. Thatscwhat happened on my latest batch. I did 10oz of dry hops on day 4 when SG was 1.011. My FG was 1.010. I have a slight haze but nothing close to how murky mine usually are. I had maybe 20-30% oats and wheat.

I didn't use as much as you did, but I used basically the same amount of hops as my previous batch (~7 oz's over a few different additions), & as stated above, the previous batch was very murky. So I'm guessing that's not the culprit...

 

[hezagenius]

I didn't use as much as you did, but I used basically the same amount of hops as my previous batch (~7 oz's over a few different additions), & as stated above, the previous batch was very murky. So I'm guessing that's not the culprit...

What was your dry hop timing and what was the gravity when you dry hopped?

 

[rappinduke]

Long time lurker here, & I have a weird situation w/my 2nd NEIPA batch. It came out clear!!!!



So I brewed a NEIPA about 6 months prior to this batch & harvested the yeast (my first time harvesting). That batch had ~7 oz's of dry hops in 5 gallons, & the yeast cake was pretty green, even after many decantings. Anyway, made a starter before I brewed again, so I knew everything was viable.



Now that the beer is ready, it's clear.... The only big changes between this recipe & the last was adding some MO, honey malt, & flaked oats, which should, if anything, make it more opaque. The last batch was murky AF.



Has anyone had this experience before?

What yeast did you use? I recently did a NEIPA with 1318 and it came out a lot clearer than usual.

 

[jakturner]

Really interested in reading your results. I have pondered doing this, 30 min boil, but am stuck in my ways for some reason. Anything to cut some time off of my brew day/morning would be great with a 2 yr old running around.

I had to make changes to save time due to my kids. Been doing no sparge and 30 min boils for about 3 yrs now. I still mash 60 mins and get about 76% efficiency. Im happy to say my beer has only gotten better!

 

[ProblemChild]

Citra/Mosaic/Motueka is awesome

 

[Beerdrinker85]

Brewing this recipe again this monday, same OP updated version but going with Nelson Sauvin/Galaxy/Simcoe
WY1318 (1st generation)
200Cl:100So4
Gonna push the chloride higher and higher to see where's my limit.

Brewed another version 2 weeks ago with Amarillo/Citra/Mosaic (I was out of galaxy)
YeastBay Vermont Ale 4th generation
180Cl:70So4
Kegging it tomorrow finished at 1.012

Can't stop brewing this perfect NEIPA recipe.

 

[tld6008]

I heat my water to 162 every time. I dump whatever grain I am using into whatever amount of water I am using and mix it in thoroughly. It always falls somewhere between 150-155...... there just is not much difference in the outcome ... .not enough to worry about. At least not for me. I would doubt anyone could consistently pick out beers mashed at 151 vs 154 in a triangle test.

***Note - I brew 60-70 batches of beer per year on my system.... so, I have gotten to the point where much of it is "automatic" in terms of what I know happens with my system. That is not the case for everyone, and it is probably worth a little more precision when you are getting to know what your own system does and does not do under different conditions.

I was under the impression that mash temperatures needed to be considered more carefully. At what mash temperature(s) could you expect to to notice a difference if performing an infusion mash.

 

[stickyfinger]

I was under the impression that mash temperatures needed to be considered more carefully. At what mash temperature(s) could you expect to to notice a difference if performing an infusion mash.

i've gone from 150 to 167F for single infusion. the FG varies dramatically, but my hunch is that the flavor on a side by side would be very close, certainly not sweet at all for higher mash temps...

 

[Braufessor]

I was under the impression that mash temperatures needed to be considered more carefully. At what mash temperature(s) could you expect to to notice a difference if performing an infusion mash.

They need to be considered in the sense that 145 or 160+ will give you differences. However, in my opinion and experience, there is no difference at all in that 150-155 range. The further you go in either direction, the more likely you would be to find some differences in FG and perhaps flavor/perception.

 

[Deckers_Beers]

What was your dry hop timing and what was the gravity when you dry hopped?

It fermented for 15 days:
3.25 oz @ day 4, krausen was falling
4.5 oz @ day 11

I guess I could've put in the 1st addition a day prior, but I was trying to get it in at the end of primary fermentation.

 

[Deckers_Beers]

What yeast did you use? I recently did a NEIPA with 1318 and it came out a lot clearer than usual.

Yea, it was 1318! But the first batch was super murky, & the 2nd is decently clear...

 

[rappinduke]

Yea, it was 1318! But the first batch was super murky, & the 2nd is decently clear...

Weird. Maybe there was a mix up at Wyeast!