New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[olotti]

s04 is close to wlp002 in origins

This^. 007 is dry English ale yeast and is a lot more flocculant and attenuates more than 002. I like to use 007 for my RIS to chew from really high og's into the 1.28-30 range and it def does the job.

 

[Tarpon87]

Agreed. That's as close as you'll get. I'd just do a Citra, Mosaic, Azacca or Amarillo if it were me.

I subbed Azacca for Galaxy on my first one because I couldn't get Galaxy, I actually liked that version a little better than C/M/G

 

[Pintabone]

Brewing it this weekend. Can't wait to try it. Subbing in El Dorado for Galaxy

5.5 - Maris Otter
5.5 - 2 row
2 - Flaked oats
.25 - Honey Malt
.5 - White wheat

.7 oz Magnum @ 60 (25 IBU)
1 oz ea - Citra, Mosaic, El Dorado @ flameout
1 oz ea - Citra, Mosaic, El Dorado whirlpool below 170
3 oz Citra, 2 oz Mosaic, 1 oz el Dorado dry hop
Omega DIPA yeast

 

[no_borders]

This^. 007 is dry English ale yeast and is a lot more flocculant and attenuates more than 002. I like to use 007 for my RIS to chew from really high og's into the 1.28-30 range and it def does the job.

Which is an exact description of whitbread yeast, or it's dry counterpart s04. 002 behaves nothing like 04, so much to a point where I really dislike 002. I totally agree with everything you said to describe 007, and I think they all apply to s04 as well.

I like 04 in this beer because it's a very mild English style, and t attenuated way better than some of the other yeasts I've tried. It has enough esters to stand out from 001, but not so much that it dominates. People rave about Conan, but I think it's way too fussy and I don't want an IPA to finish at 1.018

S04 also drops pretty hard, making it real easy to harvest. If I can make one $3 pack of yeast last 10 batches of beer I'm a pretty happy guy.

I swore by liquid yeast for a very long time, but since then I've realized that I just don't think there was good information on how to use dry yeast correctly. Handling is key, as is pitching an active culture instead of a dried out dormant one.

 

[no_borders]

So I was wrong too. 1098 = 007 and 1099=s04. Both 1098 and 1099 are whitbread strains, but 1098 is the drier version. 1099 has a whitelabs equivalent, wlp017, but it's a seasonal yeast, or the platinum series if you will. Wlp002 is wyeast 1968. Sorry for any confusion

 

[Sbe2]

I swore by liquid yeast for a very long time, but since then I've realized that I just don't think there was good information on how to use dry yeast correctly. Handling is key, as is pitching an active culture instead of a dried out dormant one.

I pitched a dry pack of S 04 right after I oxygenated my wort. I had two packs and I pitched the one that was newer according to their respective expiration dates. So YMMV, not sure if it was the proper thing to do, but I went grain to glass in 11 days.

 

[bobo31]

Not sure if this has been posted here before but I have had great success using hothead ale yeast and fermenting in my garage. Usually 80+ degrees. I mash in around 157 to account for the extra attenuation. Ferment 14 days. In bottles for one week then straight to the fridge. Awesome NEIPA'in 3 weeks.

 

[stickyfinger]

So I was wrong too. 1098 = 007 and 1099=s04. Both 1098 and 1099 are whitbread strains, but 1098 is the drier version. 1099 has a whitelabs equivalent, wlp017, but it's a seasonal yeast, or the platinum series if you will. Wlp002 is wyeast 1968. Sorry for any confusion

if that's true it could explain why i love wlp002 and have had mixed results with s04. i'd just use wlp002 - very consistent fantastic flavor profile

 

[Northern_Brewer]

So I was wrong too. 1098 = 007 and 1099=s04. Both 1098 and 1099 are whitbread strains, but 1098 is the drier version. 1099 has a whitelabs equivalent, wlp017, but it's a seasonal yeast, or the platinum series if you will. Wlp002 is wyeast 1968. Sorry for any confusion

Everything (credible) I've seen is 1098, S-04 and WLP007 are all subcultures of Whitbread 'B' or dry strain which is the one you want, 1099 Whitbread has few fans. It doesn't mean S-04, 1098 and 007 are identical, but they are very closely related. Same with the various Conan strains - I think you have to look at Conan as a family of yeast now, there seem to be significant differences between the ones from different companies.

04 is London Yeast? I thought it was closer to the Chico strain (001 or 1056)

There were many London breweries, and many "London" yeasts. British breweries were also prolific bankers of yeast. Many so-called "Whitbread" strains were banked by Whitbread but not used by them, and the two most famous "London" yeasts are named after northern breweries.

Wyeast's "original" London Ale, 1028 is like its equivalent WLP013 also referred to as Worthingtons - but Worthies were a Burton brewery, albeit one that pioneered much of the work on yeast strains. Apparently it was cultured from a bottle of White Shield but I've seen suggestions that 1028 is their bottling strain, not their production strain.

1318 is either known as London ale III or Boddingtons - the latter was a brewery in Manchester but supposedly they banked the old Courage strain. There is a suggestion that Boddies lost their original multi-strain yeast in the early 80s, so perhaps they then used Courage yeast for production - or it's just a bank name.

1768 English Special Bitter and WLP033 are both the Young's strain. Seeing references to its "lollipop" character makes me think it could be an interesting one for NEIPA.

1968 London ESB = WLP002 - the Fullers strain - seems to be recommended for bringing out the maltiness of eg porters. I've got it fermenting a pale ale at the moment.

Must admit I've been fascinated by the ongoing Tree House thread, using combinations of S-04 with pinches of WB-06 (a wheat beer yeast!) and T-58 and messing around with fermentation temperatures. I'm not the biggest fan of the style, but it's such a good one for exploring yeast that I'm looking forward to doing some experiments once the new hop harvest arrives on the shelves...

 

[degivens]

For folks using lupulin powder for dryhopping -- I plan to dryhop at day 3-4, which I have typically done with pellet hops. I get the feeling the powder will just sit on top of the fermenter unable to break through the top layer, any idea if 1) thats a thing?, and 2) any ideas how to get the powder into the heart of the fermentor...?

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Suspend the powder in cooled, boiled water before adding it?

 

[jakturner]

For folks using lupulin powder for dryhopping -- I plan to dryhop at day 3-4, which I have typically done with pellet hops. I get the feeling the powder will just sit on top of the fermenter unable to break through the top layer, any idea if 1) thats a thing?, and 2) any ideas how to get the powder into the heart of the fermentor...?

Is it actually powder? Or is it the pelleted cryo hops LupuLN2? The LupuLN2 pellets dissolved and went into solution about the same as regular old pellet hops for me. Just used them for the first time on this last batch so my experience is limited. FYI the LupuLN2 is about twice as strong at regular pellets and is definitely more "dank" in nature, I used Citra and mosaic.

 

[degivens]

Is it actually powder? Or is it the pelleted cryo hops LupuLN2? The LupuLN2 pellets dissolved and went into solution about the same as regular old pellet hops for me. Just used them for the first time on this last batch so my experience is limited. FYI the LupuLN2 is about twice as strong at regular pellets and is definitely more "dank" in nature, I used Citra and mosaic.

That's what it is. Good news, thanks for the info.

 

[Genuine]

Here's my first attempt and I'm trying to figure out what I didn't wrong.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1503935074.780002.jpg

6lb's 2 Row
2.5's Vienna
2lb's Flaked Wheat
.25lb Flaked oats
.25 Crystal 15
.40 Honey Malt

Mashed at 148 for 60 min per advise of LHBS guy, however I don't think I got full conversion as I missed my Pre-Boil gravity by a good 10-12 points, which I haven't had happen in years. (I read that I should have done a 90 minute mash for that low of a mash temp). I usually mash between 150-152 in a 2 Vessel 240V 5500 2 vessel Rims. Missed my OG by 15 points. I should have taken a hydrometer reading to see if it was actually off that much but didn't. Had an OG of 1.045 out of a calculated 1.059 and a brewhouse efficiency of 78%

.5oz of CTZ @ 60 min
.5oz of CTZ @ 5 min
2oz each (6oz total used) of Citra, Nelson Sauvin and Galaxy at 180 Degree whirlpool, however I let it steep for 5 minutes (not sure why I didn't do longer) and continued to cool with my IC Chiller.

Used Imperial Organic Dry Hop yeast and that ripped right through in 3 days and had a terminal gravity of 1.011. Tasted it before dry hopping and it had soft mouthfeel, no bitterness, barely any flavor. I missed dry hopping during high krausen. Dry hopped with 2oz of Citra, 1oz of Simoe and 1oz of Nelson Sauvin for 4 days and kegged. I have more hops to use so I'm thinking about dry hopping more in keg. Maybe I didn't use enough for the style. I also couldn't believe how much improved bitterness and flavor came out of dry hopping. That blew my mind. I thought it just added aroma.

 

[stickyfinger]

Here's my first attempt and I'm trying to figure out what I didn't wrong.

6lb's 2 Row
2.5's Vienna
2lb's Flaked Wheat
.25lb Flaked oats
.25 Crystal 15
.40 Honey Malt

Mashed at 148 for 60 min per advise of LHBS guy, however I don't think I got full conversion as I missed my Pre-Boil gravity by a good 10-12 points, which I haven't had happen in years. (I read that I should have done a 90 minute mash for that low of a mash temp). I usually mash between 150-152 in a 2 Vessel 240V 5500 2 vessel Rims. Missed my OG by 15 points. I should have taken a hydrometer reading to see if it was actually off that much but didn't. Had an OG of 1.045 out of a calculated 1.059 and a brewhouse efficiency of 78%

.5oz of CTZ @ 60 min
.5oz of CTZ @ 5 min
2oz each (6oz total used) of Citra, Nelson Sauvin and Galaxy at 180 Degree whirlpool, however I let it steep for 5 minutes (not sure why I didn't do longer) and continued to cool with my IC Chiller.

Used Imperial Organic Dry Hop yeast and that ripped right through in 3 days and had a terminal gravity of 1.011. Tasted it before dry hopping and it had soft mouthfeel, no bitterness, barely any flavor. I missed dry hopping during high krausen. Dry hopped with 2oz of Citra, 1oz of Simoe and 1oz of Nelson Sauvin for 4 days and kegged. I have more hops to use so I'm thinking about dry hopping more in keg. Maybe I didn't use enough for the style. I also couldn't believe how much improved bitterness and flavor came out of dry hopping. That blew my mind. I thought it just added aroma.

I never seem to get the published conversion on my flaked additions when I do an infusion mash. I think 20-30 ppg for flaked is more realistic for me. So, that can contribute to the lower gravity as well. Longer mash would probably help some as you say. Dry hopping gives tons of hop flavor, as you now know.

 

[Genuine]

I had some friends try it this weekend and they agreed that there was initial bitterness but little flavor after that. I'll keg hop tonight with galaxy or Nelson and see how much that changes it.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

.5oz of CTZ @ 60 min
.5oz of CTZ @ 5 min
2oz each (6oz total used) of Citra, Nelson Sauvin and Galaxy at 180 Degree whirlpool, however I let it steep for 5 minutes (not sure why I didn't do longer) and continued to cool with my IC Chiller.

..Tasted it before dry hopping and it had soft mouthfeel, no bitterness, barely any flavor. ... I also couldn't believe how much improved bitterness and flavor came out of dry hopping. That blew my mind. I thought it just added aroma.

The thing is dry hopping adds a different sort of flavour and bitterness for want of a better description - as you said your processing up until it was cold had added barely any flavour. You need a bit more going in around flameout - some flavour hops at 5 minutes and/or a longer whirlpool. The dry-hop flavour and bitterness is another layer on top of the stuff around flameout, not the only show in town.

 

[centrical]

Here's my first attempt and I'm trying to figure out what I didn't wrong.

View attachment 412133

.
.
2oz each (6oz total used) of Citra, Nelson Sauvin and Galaxy at 180 Degree whirlpool, however I let it steep for 5 minutes (not sure why I didn't do longer) and continued to cool with my IC Chiller.
.
.

I would think with that much WP hops you would have a lot of flavor. But i usually WP for 30 minutes. I guess it's possible 5 minutes is just not long enough.

 

[marjen]

Brewed over the weekend and tried something new in my process. I usually do .25oz columbus@60 and .75 columbus@10. I decided to try a 30 min boil vs the usual 60 min. So i did .5oz columbus@30 and .5 columbus@10. I then changed my usual 30 min whirlpool to a 60 min whirlpool. added 10oz of hops (10 gallon batch) for the whirlpool. The goal was more contact time with the beer in the kettle to try and bring out more flavor. Read something about it in another thread so figured I would try it. Reduced the boil time to compensate for the longer whirlpool time and still keep my brew day at the same length. Also got less evaporation that way, so more went into the fermenter.

I split into 2 fermenters and will dry hop tonight at 48 hrs.

 

[olotti]

I had some friends try it this weekend and they agreed that there was initial bitterness but little flavor after that. I'll keg hop tonight with galaxy or Nelson and see how much that changes it.

Doc u got the bitterness from the Ctz but with only a small charge at 5 min and steeping for 5 min you def didn't give the hope enough extraction time before chilling all the way down. My practice is to cool to 175 then add the hopstand and let it naturally chill down to 155 so that can take anywhere from 30-45-60 min then I'll chill it down to transfer., the longer contact time the better I think. I also just bottled a neipa where I only used 30ibu at 60min then 5oz right at flameout let that cook to 175 then added another 4 oz for a hopstand and that contact time was about an hour also. Try it again letting it hopstand for atleast 30-60 min and I bet you'll taste a diff.

 

[WiscoBrewer]

Brewed over the weekend and tried something new in my process. I usually do .25oz columbus@60 and .75 columbus@10. I decided to try a 30 min boil vs the usual 60 min. So i did .5oz columbus@30 and .5 columbus@10. I then changed my usual 30 min whirlpool to a 60 min whirlpool. added 10oz of hops (10 gallon batch) for the whirlpool. The goal was more contact time with the beer in the kettle to try and bring out more flavor. Read something about it in another thread so figured I would try it. Reduced the boil time to compensate for the longer whirlpool time and still keep my brew day at the same length. Also got less evaporation that way, so more went into the fermenter.

I split into 2 fermenters and will dry hop tonight at 48 hrs.

This is something I've been tossing around for awhile now, the 30min boil anyway. Curious how this turns out. I was going to leave the whirlpool at the same amount of time though. As far as having more in the fermenter, did you adjust your mash/sparge volumes to compensate for boil off?

 

[WiscoBrewer]

Okay…… This is just kind of an “update post”. The original recipe is great as is… but, here are some slightly different things I have started to do, minor changes, observations, etc. After a certain amount of time, you cannot edit a post – so I can’t really get in to make changes to the OP. I do think I can get this post linked into the OP though. Some of what follows is basically the same as the OP…. Some is different and updated. I will put the updated parts in bold italics



**I brew 6.5 gallons of finished beer (post boil)..... this allows me to leave some hop/trub behind in boil kettle and fermenter and get 5 gallons eventually into serving keg. If you finish with 5 gallons post boil, you might want to adjust hops down a bit.

6.5 gallons post boil

5.75 gallons into fermenter

5 gallons into keg



GRAIN BILL:

1.060 OG…. I think this makes a perfect compromise between getting into DIPA range (having beers that are just too high in abv. for my preference) and going too far toward 1.050 where the beer may become too much of a “session” IPA for some peoples preferences.



% and the actual amt. I use for 6.5 gallons @ 84% mash efficiency (your efficiency may vary – so use the percentages)



40% Rahr 2 Row (5.5 lbs)

40% Golden Promise (or similar…Maris Otter) (5.5 lbs)

8% Flaked Oats (1 lb)

4% Flaked Barley 1/2 lb)

4% Weyerman Wheat (1/2 lb)

2% Flaked Wheat (1/4 lb)

2% Honey Malt (1/4 lb)



60 minute mash @152-154)



*Note on grain…. Using all 2 Row for Base is probably fine. Using any combination of flaked Oats/Wheat/Barley to get into the 15-20% range is proably fine too. I do like the addition of Honey Malt and recommend keeping it.



HOPS:

**60 Min. = .75 oz Warrior

**Flame Out = 1oz. each of Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic

**Chill to 160 or below and add 1oz. each of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Stop chiller and allow hops to sit for 30 minute or so. Stir up/whirlpool wort every 5 minutes or so.

Chill to 62-64 and let hops settle out as much as possible. Transfer wort to fermenter. I tend to leave behind .75 gallons of trub and hops (this is why I brew 6.5 gallon batch).



**Dry Hop #1- At day 4-6 (basically when there are a few gravity points left and beer is still fermenting). Add the following to primary fermenter:

1.5 oz. Citra

1 oz. Mosaic

.5 oz. Galaxy



**Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to CO2 purged dry hopping keg with

1.5 oz. Citra

1 oz. Mosaic

.5 oz. Galaxy

(I use this strategy: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09...no-oxygen.html )



Day 14 - Jump from Dry hop keg to serving keg. Force carbonate to moderate/moderate-low. For carbonation, I usually hook it up at 25 psi for 2 days and then back it off to 10-12 psi - generally seems to carb up best after a few days, but fine to drink after 2-3 days.





Many folks who don't keg, or don't have a dry hopping keg ask about adding all the hops to primary, or adding all the hops in a single dry hop..... that isn't what I do, but you have to make things fit your system and your process. Others do it with fine success. There is no reason it should not work to do that if it fits your system better



WATER PROFILE:

There are multiple directions to go here. Currently, I am partial to the following water addtions - 100% RO water. I add per gallon of mash and sparge water -

Gypsum = .9 grams/gallon

CaCl = .4 grams/gallon

Epsom = .1 gram/gallon

Canning Salt = .05 grams/gallon





Lactic Acid = I add about .5ml- 1ml (total) of lactic acid to the mash and the sparge. And may adjust a bit more…. Aiming for about 5.35-5.45 mash pH and Preboil kettle pH.



Using B'run Water



Ca = 100

Mg = 5

Na = 13

Sulfate = 147

Chloride = 80

Bicarbonate = 16



Mash pH = 5.37-5.42

Final runnings pH = 5.60

Pre-boil Kettle pH = 5.40-5.45

Post Boil pH = 5.3-5.35



**Water strategies to test out for yourself to see what you like best;

2:1 Sulfate:Chloride in the 150:75 range

1:1 Sulfate:Chloride in the 120-150 range

1:2 Sulfate:Chloride in the 75:150 range

All will produce a good beer… but you may find something you personally prefer.

I did go 200 sulfate:50 Cl…… it was fine…. But, it was not what I was looking for. It definitely “dried” the beer out a bit. I think it definitely moved this beer away from what most of us are shooting for in a “Ne IPA.”



Water Profile - the simple solution:

***Many people ask about a more general guide to water because they do not know what their own water profile is, or they have not made the jump to using a water profile software. I use B'run water, and the above profile. However, if you just want to get in the ballpark of something "similar" to start with..... The simplest solution is this:

100% RO water for both mash and sparge.

Per 5 gallons of mash water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum

Per 5 gallons of sparge water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum



This should bring you in around 140 Chloride and 80 Sulfate.



Or….. to try other versions….

*The opposite: 1tsp of gypsum and ½ tsp of CaCl per 5 gallon

*Equal ratios: ¾ - 1 tsp of each per 5 gallon.



This does not take into account trying to get Na or Mg numbers. It ignores bicarbonate and as it is 100% RO, it should bring your mash pH in around 5.41 without any acid addition.



ROUGH estimate of grams to tsp of minerals:

1/4 tsp Gypsum = .9 grams

1/4 tsp CaCl = 1.1 grams

1/4 tsp Epsom Salt = 1.3 grams

1/4 tsp Canning Salt = 1.8 grams





FERMENTATION

Yeast - Conan(vermont IPA), 1318 is also a yeast many choose to use in beers like this. *** I have also found that 1272 works great. I am starting to think that there are many yeasts that would likely do just fine in beers like this. 1056, 1450, 007…. I would not be afraid to try other yeasts.

I tend to start fermentation off around 62-64 at let it free rise to 66-68 degrees through the first 3 days or so of fermentation. At that point, I like to move it somewhere that it can finish off in the 68-70-72 range.



OTHER THOUGHTS/NOTES:



I keep almost everything the same in brewing IPA's to this style. However, I do mix up the hops. I always bitter with warrior (Columbus on occasion), and always use 4 sets of 3 ounce additions at Flameout, Whirlpool, Dry Hop #1, Dry Hop #2....... but, not always the same hops. I sometimes do 100% Citra. I sometimes do equal parts of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy for all 4 additions (Grapefruit!!!!), I some times do equal parts (1.5 ounces) citra/mosaic at all 4 additions... But always the same basic amount, in the same basic schedule.

I think single hop versions of Mosaic or Galaxy would potentially be quite good. I have done 2:1 Citra:Columbus that was good. I like Simcoe/Amarillo/Centennial (but I keep centennial out of the dry hop as I find it “drying”). I have used Citra/Azacca – which was good (although Azacca can get lost as it is not as “strong” as some of the others). Personally, I think dank hops like Columbus, Eureka, etc. can get out of hand in beers like this and come off as harsh and grassy….. so, I tend to really limit them to smaller amounts. Lots of combos will work….. but, at the end of the day I still find it very hard to beat Citra:Mosaic:Galaxy combos.

Curious what everyone has done for a water:grist ratio? Have you messed around with this at all? I realize that Brulosophy has done experiments that indicate no perceivable difference, just curious. I'm usually at 1.3qt/lb.

 

[Sbe2]

Brewed over the weekend and tried something new in my process. I usually do .25oz columbus@60 and .75 columbus@10. I decided to try a 30 min boil vs the usual 60 min. So i did .5oz columbus@30 and .5 columbus@10. I then changed my usual 30 min whirlpool to a 60 min whirlpool. added 10oz of hops (10 gallon batch) for the whirlpool. The goal was more contact time with the beer in the kettle to try and bring out more flavor. Read something about it in another thread so figured I would try it. Reduced the boil time to compensate for the longer whirlpool time and still keep my brew day at the same length. Also got less evaporation that way, so more went into the fermenter.

I split into 2 fermenters and will dry hop tonight at 48 hrs.

Really interested in reading your results. I have pondered doing this, 30 min boil, but am stuck in my ways for some reason. Anything to cut some time off of my brew day/morning would be great with a 2 yr old running around.

 

[elbinwyp]

Really interested in reading your results. I have pondered doing this, 30 min boil, but am stuck in my ways for some reason. Anything to cut some time off of my brew day/morning would be great with a 2 yr old running around.

I have done this multiple times with success.

 

[MMJfan]

I think this recipe might be added to my brew list.

I don't have time to read thru the 400+ posts but is the recipe from the OP pretty much still the go to?

 

[dukedevil0]

I think this recipe might be added to my brew list.

I don't have time to read thru the 400+ posts but is the recipe from the OP pretty much still the go to?

In the first post, OP linked to his latest recipe which is here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7701386&postcount=1418

 

[EndOfLine]

Curious what everyone has done for a water:grist ratio? Have you messed around with this at all? I realize that Brulosophy has done experiments that indicate no perceivable difference, just curious. I'm usually at 1.3qt/lb.

I do no sparges for every beer I make. So, with my equipment/system, I need 10 gallons of water in my mash, to have close to 5.5 - 6 gallons of finished wort.

I use RO or distilled water. So with added salts and acid malt, my mash PH is perfect. If you are using tap water, you may need to add a lot more acid to get into range.

 

[centrical]

Curious what everyone has done for a water:grist ratio? Have you messed around with this at all? I realize that Brulosophy has done experiments that indicate no perceivable difference, just curious. I'm usually at 1.3qt/lb.

1.25. Sometimes I do thicker so I can add a gallon of 200f water to "mash out" and not get it too think at that point.

 

[Braufessor]

Curious what everyone has done for a water:grist ratio? Have you messed around with this at all? I realize that Brulosophy has done experiments that indicate no perceivable difference, just curious. I'm usually at 1.3qt/lb.

I think it makes little or no difference at all as long as it is not way too much or too little.

I have about 1 gallon of dead space under my mash screen. If I do a beer with under 10 pounds of grain, I use 4 gallons of water. If it is over 10 pounds I use 5 gallons...... So, I will use 5 gallons for 11-12-13-14 pounds. I never bother to even figure out the pound/quart ratio.

If I was doing something with a big grain bill, I might work it out a little more precisely to make sure I had enough room in my mash tun, etc. Otherwise, if it is anywhere in the ball park, I think it makes almost zero difference.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I have pondered doing this, 30 min boil, but am stuck in my ways for some reason. Anything to cut some time off of my brew day/morning would be great with a 2 yr old running around.

Try it. The main reasons for doing 60+ minutes are traditionally held to be :

Efficiency of alpha extraction - but it's not much greater than at 30 min, just add a dime's worth of extra bittering hops.

Quality of bittering - some argue that the bittering needs a full 60 min to smooth out. This is one for you to taste or not.

DMS - the argument is that the extra half hour reduces the residual DMS from something like 40% of the starting DMS to 20% - and a 90 minute boil would be even better. 6-row has far more DMS precursors than 2-row, very pale malts like pilsner are a bit worse than standard pale. However a Brulosophy experiment found people couldn't tell the difference between pilsner malt boiled for 30min and 90min, and then measured the DMS properly and couldn't find any in the 30 min beer. It's just one data point, but it suggests that DMS is less of a problem with modern agronomy/malting than it's sometimes made out.

You could further shorten your day by moving to no-chill. Not only do you save the time spent chilling, they say you should move all your hop additions forward 20 minutes to compensate for the residual heating in the no-chill cube. It's for you to decide whether you want to also take another 20 minutes off the DMS reduction period....

Try it - I'm in the middle of doing some experiments with short boils. At this stage I _think_ I can taste a slight change in the bitterness, but nothing that's particularly unacceptable. My feeling is that I might do the long boil for a competition entry, particularly something like a helles where you're using a lot of pilsner malt and there's nowhere to hide off flavours - but for ordinary house pale ales then the quicker brew day is worth it. That's still a feeling-in-progress though.