New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[ttuato]

I attempted a transfer from fermenter to keg after a very brief cold crash - lots of hop debris clogging my ball lock disconnect & keg post. After stopping three times to disassemble the disconnect & post to clean, I figured out how to transfer to keg without getting the lines clogged: remove the poppet from the post as well as the spring & needle from the disconnect. Hook up lines as normal, pressurize and proceed with the transfer. After the transfer is complete simply remove the post and insert the poppet back in. Prior to this new step my 5 gal transfer would take about 15-20min from Speidel fermenter to keg (plus stopping to clear clogs as applicable), after this new step it took less than 5min and no clogs to speak of.

 

[milldoggy]

I attempted a transfer from fermenter to keg after a very brief cold crash - lots of hop debris clogging my ball lock disconnect & keg post. After stopping three times to disassemble the disconnect & post to clean, I figured out how to transfer to keg without getting the lines clogged: remove the poppet from the post as well as the spring & needle from the disconnect. Hook up lines as normal, pressurize and proceed with the transfer. After the transfer is complete simply remove the post and insert the poppet back in. Prior to this new step my 5 gal transfer would take about 15-20min from Speidel fermenter to keg (plus stopping to clear clogs as applicable), after this new step it took less than 5min and no clogs to speak of.

Had the same issue. Even with the poppet removed, had issues. Got one of these.

https://www.brewershardware.com/Wort-Strainers/

Will use that to filter debris. Will report back on how it worked. Got the 300, and 200 micron screens. Probably will start with 200 micron

 

[hezagenius]

I attempted a transfer from fermenter to keg after a very brief cold crash - lots of hop debris clogging my ball lock disconnect & keg post. After stopping three times to disassemble the disconnect & post to clean, I figured out how to transfer to keg without getting the lines clogged: remove the poppet from the post as well as the spring & needle from the disconnect. Hook up lines as normal, pressurize and proceed with the transfer. After the transfer is complete simply remove the post and insert the poppet back in. Prior to this new step my 5 gal transfer would take about 15-20min from Speidel fermenter to keg (plus stopping to clear clogs as applicable), after this new step it took less than 5min and no clogs to speak of.

What type of fermenter are you using?

 

[Gustatorian]

Had the same issue. Even with the poppet removed, had issues. Got one of these.

https://www.brewershardware.com/Wort-Strainers/

Will use that to filter debris. Will report back on how it worked. Got the 300, and 200 micron screens. Probably will start with 200 micron

Are you just placing this over the racking arm? I have a 7G SS chronical and I'm trying to figure out a solution myself.

I've tried the aforementioned poppit removal technique. I feel like you're getting significant oxygen exposure with this method.

 

[EndOfLine]

Had the same issue. Even with the poppet removed, had issues. Got one of these.

https://www.brewershardware.com/Wort-Strainers/

Will use that to filter debris. Will report back on how it worked. Got the 300, and 200 micron screens. Probably will start with 200 micron

I'm very interested in how this works! So I was thinking, attach a "T" then attach this filter to one end, and a blow off on the other to get the initial trub/yeast sitting in the racking arm out.

 

[ttuato]

Speidel plastic keg. Normally donthave issues but this batch had 8oz of dryhop and only cold crashed for 12hrs.

 

[milldoggy]

Are you just placing this over the racking arm? I have a 7G SS chronical and I'm trying to figure out a solution myself.

I've tried the aforementioned poppit removal technique. I feel like you're getting significant oxygen exposure with this method.

Going to place it on racking port. Probably use a hose so I can easy push all the air out and not direct clamp on the port.

 

[milldoggy]

Going to place it on racking port. Probably use a hose so I can easy push all the air out and not direct clamp on the port.

Also, I do not cold crash as my conical does not hold pressure, so I cannot attach co2 while cold crashing and do not want to suck in o2. Let's not debate the co2 blanket,etc. Just my personal preference.

 

[Gustatorian]

Going to place it on racking port. Probably use a hose so I can easy push all the air out and not direct clamp on the port.

Post a photo when you do it. I'd be concerned about getting that thing properly flushed with CO2

 

[milldoggy]

Post a photo when you do it. I'd be concerned about getting that thing properly flushed with CO2

Should not have to. Just fill and point up to vent all air. Dump the first little bit that might be exposed to o2.

Been trying to brew, summer, kids and work in the way

 

[braindead]

Well wedding over and a huge thankypou to Braufessor and everyone else who gave advice. Folks at the wedding were blown away. I brewed 4 different kegs and everyone said this recipe was by far the best.
So thanks again : )

 

[thehaze]

Not only is the Imperial Citrus great in this style - also try the DryHop Yeast as well. Avoid the Juice yeast. It's more of a mess than anything else.

When you say Juice, you mean Imperial A38, right?

How is that yeast a mess? Any experience with it? How does it behave?

From the very few things I could find, it seems this yeast would be closer to Wyeast 1318.

 

[Sbe2]

I just brewed brau's recipe, but when I was ready to pitch my starter of 1318(idle for 4 months) it smelled like my kids diaper. Didn't pitch it and left it on the stir plate to see if any krausen will form. Luckily I bought some s-04, so I pitched that. Hopefully it will be ready by the 26th!

 

[TimmyWit]

cool. interesting to see if any flavor differences

The one fermented at 67F is on the left, 90F is on the right. I had a few friends over last night and we all tried each version. None of us could detect any difference in flavor. To be sure, I did a side by side today and to my senses, they are identical.

As you would expect, the 90F version finished faster and because of that, it spent less time on each dry hop addition. The aroma of both beers is identical despite the 67F version getting an extra 1-2 days on each drop hop addition.

If there is a difference, it might just be too subtle to detect in an aggressively hopped beer.

 

[phyllobeddo]

I just brewed brau's recipe, but when I was ready to pitch my starter of 1318(idle for 4 months) it smelled like my kids diaper. Didn't pitch it and left it on the stir plate to see if any krausen will form. Luckily I bought some s-04, so I pitched that. Hopefully it will be ready by the 26th!

Try to remember to report back on how it turned out with the S-04. I've used it successfully in other hoppy beers, but I haven't tried it with a NE IPA yet. I like 1318 and I have a pack of WLP095 to try next. I'm still interested in using dry yeast for this style. Thanks and cheers!

 

[centrical]

Try to remember to report back on how it turned out with the S-04. I've used it successfully in other hoppy beers, but I haven't tried it with a NE IPA yet. I like 1318 and I have a pack of WLP095 to try next. I'm still interested in using dry yeast for this style. Thanks and cheers!

I tasted a NE IPA fermented with S-04 recently, and it tasted great. I though it was 1318 until I was told otherwise. I look forward to hearing if yours turns out well also.

 

[Sbe2]

Try to remember to report back on how it turned out with the S-04. I've used it successfully in other hoppy beers, but I haven't tried it with a NE IPA yet. I like 1318 and I have a pack of WLP095 to try next. I'm still interested in using dry yeast for this style. Thanks and cheers!

I will. I have to give credit to all of the ppl on the Isolated Yeast thread. Some of them are mixing s-04, wb-06, and T-58.

 

[crusader1612]

I will. I have to give credit to all of the ppl on the Isolated Yeast thread. Some of them are mixing s-04, wb-06, and T-58.

Really? What's the aim of that??

 

[grassfeeder]

When you say Juice, you mean Imperial A38, right?

How is that yeast a mess? Any experience with it? How does it behave?

From the very few things I could find, it seems this yeast would be closer to Wyeast 1318.

I do indeed mean A38. IT's a great yeast but absolutely goes bananas. It'll climb outta my fermenter (SS Brewbucket) with a blow-off even. Krausen doesn't really settle down much either. I've used most all recommended Imperial Yeasts - Barbarian, Citrus, DryHop, Juice. I really like the Dryhop best for these. It ferments fast, drops clean, adds a really nice element to the finished product without over-shadowing the heavy dry hop goodness in these.

Just my experience and thoughts however. I certainly would love to hear and see other peoples experiences.

 

[mintyice]

Juice is totally not 1318. I think it's closer to 002. Only 1318 is 1318 (so far that I've tried). s04 is more like 002 imo.

I'm from the Tired Hands school of NEIPAs and 1318 is a must.

 

[GnenieGone]

The one fermented at 67F is on the left, 90F is on the right. I had a few friends over last night and we all tried each version. None of us could detect any difference in flavor. To be sure, I did a side by side today and to my senses, they are identical.

As you would expect, the 90F version finished faster and because of that, it spent less time on each dry hop addition. The aroma of both beers is identical despite the 67F version getting an extra 1-2 days on each drop hop addition.

If there is a difference, it might just be too subtle to detect in an aggressively hopped beer.

Wow! This is my 2nd go around at brewing. 1st time did ZERO temp control in the Central Texas summers and most beers tasted odd. This second go around didn't control at first but once I started marked difference in quality was noticed. So very suprised at your results, unless you used Saison dry yeast.

 

[lilbova3]

Really? What's the aim of that??

It is believed that Tree House is using these three different strains in their beers. Check out the thread. It'll be a long read but well worth it and exciting to see the research they've been doing.

Using different pitching rates (mostly under pitching at the beginning), timing of pitching and the temp you pitch at help develop the esters.

 

[Sbe2]

Really? What's the aim of that??

You will have to read this thread. I cannot do it justice in one post.

 

[Dcpcooks]

I've had really nice results with a huge pitch of omega dipa fermented at 65 for the first two day then ramped to 68 until I hit 80% of my expected FG. I ramp it to 70 for a three day dry hop and crash it for 30 hours. Really nice subtle fruit with lots of hop flavor and aroma. Juicy is the best descriptor.

 

[dyqik]

I have a 6 week old keg on NEIPA that I shook up yesterday to resuspend all the hop oils. I dry hopped in the keg and it totally kicked new life into this beer. It dropped clear, but now it's nice and hazy again, and I taste way more of the hop resin character. Perfect for a 8% version.

You, sir, are a genius. I did this to my NEIPA keg a couple of days ago, and after one extremely murky pour (which I drank anyway), the subsequent pours are hazy and hoppy again.

 

[tiredofbuyingbeer]

I'm going to make this in a month or two going by the grain bill in the canonical recipe, but all Columbus. I want it to have a very smooth, juicy, not harsh mouthfeel I most associate with Tired Hands (I haven't drank too many commercial examples of NEIPA, though, so maybe they're all like this). Should I go with the 1:1 or the 1:2 SO4:Cl ratio? Would the latter be too sweet tasting?

I'm going to use Imperial Citrus (i.e., WLP644), mostly because I have a lot of slurry of it and I want to play this strain out before I buy another strain.

 

[plazola86]

1:2 SO4:Cl ratio

But the harshness your talking about comes from the bittering addition. Use only enough at 60 minutes to get you to 30 IBU. Add the rest of the hops at flameout/whirlpool/dry hop.

 

[Pintabone]

Would like to brew this sometime this month. Couple of questions:

1. Is there a specific benefit to dry hopping with two separate bursts? I understand there is an idea of some kind of biotransformation when dry hopping during the latter part of active fermentation. Is that the sole reason for listing the two separate dry hops?

2. Any significant negative impact if I were to dry hop the first charge and rather than rack to a second vessel, add the 2nd charge of dry hops into the same primary fermentation vessel? From what I've read the risk of autolysis is minimal unless on the yeast for a month +.

3. Do you use any type of stainless filter or hop bag? I have a 300 micron filter that I could potentially use to dry hop the first charge, pull the filter and empty and then add the second dry hop charge.

Awesome thread and thanks for all the information!

 

[grassfeeder]

Would like to brew this sometime this month. Couple of questions:

1. Is there a specific benefit to dry hopping with two separate bursts? I understand there is an idea of some kind of biotransformation when dry hopping during the latter part of active fermentation. Is that the sole reason for listing the two separate dry hops?

2. Any significant negative impact if I were to dry hop the first charge and rather than rack to a second vessel, add the 2nd charge of dry hops into the same primary fermentation vessel? From what I've read the risk of autolysis is minimal unless on the yeast for a month +.

3. Do you use any type of stainless filter or hop bag? I have a 300 micron filter that I could potentially use to dry hop the first charge, pull the filter and empty and then add the second dry hop charge.

Awesome thread and thanks for all the information!

I have never dry-hoped in 2 separate bursts. I have always added one large addition when I believe its about 80% of the way finished.

I also DO NOT rack to secondary, nor would I if I was to do a second dry-hop.

I added all of my dry-hops in a hop bag and tie floss around the end and weigh it down with glass marbles so it suspends itself in the middle of the fermenter.

Direct transfer to keg. No cold crashing. Can usually go grain to glass in about 7-8 days.

 

[TimmyWit]

Wow! This is my 2nd go around at brewing. 1st time did ZERO temp control in the Central Texas summers and most beers tasted odd. This second go around didn't control at first but once I started marked difference in quality was noticed. So very suprised at your results, unless you used Saison dry yeast.

This was an experiment with Omega OYL-057. Omega claims that you can ferment from 62 to 98 with minimal change in the finished product. A few months ago, stickyfinger suggested splitting a batch and fermenting at both ends of the range to see if there would be a perceived difference. I finally got around to doing it and I couldn't detect any differences at all. If you are looking for a solid yeast that you can use without temp control, give this one a shot. You won't be disappointed!

 

[stickyfinger]

This was an experiment with Omega OYL-057. Omega claims that you can ferment from 62 to 98 with minimal change in the finished product. A few months ago, stickyfinger suggested splitting a batch and fermenting at both ends of the range to see if there would be a perceived difference. I finally got around to doing it and I couldn't detect any differences at all. If you are looking for a solid yeast that you can use without temp control, give this one a shot. You won't be disappointed!

i used it at 95 twice. has what i would call a slight apple flavor and should work fine as a replacement for chico at hot temps for hoppy beers

 

[GnenieGone]

This was an experiment with Omega OYL-057. Omega claims that you can ferment from 62 to 98 with minimal change in the finished product. A few months ago, stickyfinger suggested splitting a batch and fermenting at both ends of the range to see if there would be a perceived difference. I finally got around to doing it and I couldn't detect any differences at all. If you are looking for a solid yeast that you can use without temp control, give this one a shot. You won't be disappointed!

Yes! Always looking, thank you!!

 

[jbedell2]

Recent Amber version of this I did was really good I thought ...... I will post full recipe when I get a chance. Should be a really good fall beer.

Brau any update on this? Looking to try an amber version of this soon and would love to know this recipe. I know you posted one here a few months back, but wondering if you changed anything since then. Thanks.

 

[mintyice]

Brau any update on this? Looking to try an amber version of this soon and would love to know this recipe. I know you posted one here a few months back, but wondering if you changed anything since then. Thanks.

Amber versions are tough because you have to balance the sweetness from whatever cara malts you are using to give you color with the English yeast that already leaves the beer a tad sweeter. The one amber 1318 NEIPA I made was good but a little cloying. You have to go higher on the first bitterness charge + SO4 addition to balance it out. It could work, but an amber with a more neutral yeast might be better.

 

[brew703]

I've somewhat kept up with this thread but must admit quit reading it a few months ago as I quit making NEIPA's due to oxidation issues.

Anyway, just curious if anyone has combined conan and 1318. If so, what was the outcome.
If it's been discussed I apologize.

 

[Rush]

I've got bulk Amarillo, Mosaic, Citra, Centennial, Cascade, Columbus, Willamette, Nugget, Warrior, and Tettnang. Out of these, what would everyone use for late addition hops?

I'm currently debating between Mosaic/Amarillo/Citra or Mosaic/Columbus/Citra.

 

[Eltes]

I've got bulk Amarillo, Mosaic, Citra, Centennial, Cascade, Columbus, Willamette, Nugget, Warrior, and Tettnang. Out of these, what would everyone use for late addition hops?

I'm currently debating between Mosaic/Amarillo/Citra or Mosaic/Columbus/Citra.

I recently did a batch with only Columbus in the hop stand, then dry hopped with 1:2.5:2.5 Columbus:Citra:Centennial. Turned out really nice, I can recommend it.

 

[degivens]

I've somewhat kept up with this thread but must admit quit reading it a few months ago as I quit making NEIPA's due to oxidation issues.

Anyway, just curious if anyone has combined conan and 1318. If so, what was the outcome.
If it's been discussed I apologize.

also curious....

 

[no_borders]

Finally got around to brewing the NE Brown IPA I was talking about however many hundred pages ago. Decided to go with equal parts Citra:Columbus:Simcoe. It's been about 24 hours since pitching and it's been hammering away all day. I'll get some more info and some pictures as it gets closer. Probably going t rush this one through fermentation as I'm running out of beer, so results won't take long to report

 

[stickyfinger]

Finally got around to brewing the NE Brown IPA I was talking about however many hundred pages ago. Decided to go with equal parts Citra:Columbus:Simcoe. It's been about 24 hours since pitching and it's been hammering away all day. I'll get some more info and some pictures as it gets closer. Probably going t rush this one through fermentation as I'm running out of beer, so results won't take long to report

I love Simcoe in brown ales...