New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[MerlinWerks]

With BIAB, when are you adding these?

I believe Martin Brungard recommends adding any salts/acids to the strike liquor before heating. I don't remember the exact reason, but if you search a bit you'll probably find it.

 

[EcuPirate07]

I do this without issue, the particles you may have transferred get pushed back out in the first pour. No big deal.

Interesting. I wanna try it but I'm still apprehensive I'm sitting at 9oz of hops right now. Gonna add the last 3oz here in the next couple days. I really want to transfer to a keg so I can start carbing as I'm doing the last Hop addition. Kind of killing 2 birds with 1 stone.

 

[JJ900]

so they say. No idea how they do it. Perhaps my palate is not sophisticated enough to pick it up. I've been bottling for 26 years and not yet had a beer that I could detect any oxygenation or staling.

Moto you should post in that thread so we can compare notes on what your NEIPA process looks like versus other bottlers.

 

[stickyfinger]

I believe Martin Brungard recommends adding any salts/acids to the strike liquor before heating. I don't remember the exact reason, but if you search a bit you'll probably find it.

if u use acid, you should add before heating so the alkalinity doesn't get messed up. it's explained in his instructions. the other salts can be added at your convenience.

 

[whovous]

I believe Martin Brungard recommends adding any salts/acids to the strike liquor before heating. I don't remember the exact reason, but if you search a bit you'll probably find it.

I believe it is because some of these salts do not dissolve particularly well, but they dissolve better in cold water than they do in hot water.

 

[doublebogey10]

To my fellow BIABers, if you haven't yet, go grab yourself a Wilser bag. I don't think a single grain got through my bag during mash. Best $20 I've ever spent!

Co-sign.

 

[leesmith]

All minerals and acids should be thoroughly mixed into the water BEFORE doughing in. Another brewer just performed a simple experiment where he added minerals and acid to a test mash and then mixed to a degree that he thought was thorough. He measured pH and temperatures at various points in the mash and was surprised to see at lot of variation even though he thought the mixing was good. Adding the minerals and acid beforehand, avoids the pH variation.

Found the above in another thread.

While he doesn't talk about heating I think he does on the actual spreadsheet.

It's good practice to make sure your minerals are dissolved well before the mash.

If you wanted to measure the ph of your water before mashing but after the mineral and acid additions...it would make sense to keep the water at room temp in order to get an accurate reading (and not have to cool it down).

I frequently make acid additions to hot wort in order to drop the ph for making sour beers and sometimes I'll add some to a really hoppy beer preboil to make sure the ph is as close to 5.2 as possible. So it's not about the effectiveness of the acid to drop the ph in hot wort.

Just looked at the spreadsheet; it's because the act of heating the water can change the alkalinity of the water and change the amount of acid needed to hit the target mash ph. In order for the predictions of the spreadsheet to be accurate it needs to be done this way.

 

[nnfdcane]

So I brewed my latest batch Thursday night, used Imperial Citrus yeast this time. Chilled to 63, pitched my yeast and into my freezer. Friday morning I checked on it and it looked like a carbonated soda! Checked on it again this morning and my krausen has already dropped! I'm still fairly new to brewing, but I've never seen such a vigorous fermentation. Didn't someone else use this yeast somewhere in this thread? Did you have a similar result with this yeast?

 

[nnfdcane]

Nm

 

[bkboiler]

I brewed this beer's malt bill and water profile yesterday, but used s-05 yeast for simplicity and only nugget hops(i have a # of them to use).
I had to substitute phosphoric acid for the lactic, but i used only a tiny amount..
i am gonna see if i can get Bru'N to work on my phone...should've calculated more precisely...
i'll report back with how it turns out! fermenting away happily right now! will do a stage of primary dry hops after cold crash and then racking into keg with more keg hops!

 

[anteater8]

So I brewed my latest batch Thursday night, used Imperial Citrus yeast this time. Chilled to 63, pitched my yeast and into my freezer. Friday morning I checked on it and it looked like a carbonated soda! Checked on it again this morning and my krausen has already dropped! I'm still fairly new to brewing, but I've never seen such a vigorous fermentation. Didn't someone else use this yeast somewhere in this thread? Did you have a similar result with this yeast?

Yes. I brewed this recipe with A20 Citrus and was totally thrown off by how quickly fermentation started and ended. I actually added my primary dry hop at day 2 or 3.

 

[nnfdcane]

Yes. I brewed this recipe with A20 Citrus and was totally thrown off by how quickly fermentation started and ended. I actually added my primary dry hop at day 2 or 3.

Yeah I added my first dose of dry hops this morning (day 2). So how did your beer turn out?

 

[Tarpon87]

Brewed a citra mosaic azacca today, my first brew ever. Things were going smoothly until the boil. Not used to my burner yet, I had way too much heat. Fought foam for 30 min before I realized to turn the heat way down. Foam dropped, had my hot break and the last 30min went fine. Once I had the wort cooled to pitching temp I realized I had boiled off way too much water. Only put 3.75gal in the fermenter, was shooting for 5.5 (had 7gal at the end of the mash). Boiled some more water on the stove, cooled to pitching temp in an ice bath, added to fermenter and pitched my yeast. Hopefully it still comes out OK. What do you guys think?

 

[anteater8]

Yeah I added my first dose of dry hops this morning (day 2). So how did your beer turn out?

It was good but not as good as Conan/1318. Strong belgian flavor the first couple days, but that kind of mellowed into more a bubble gum flavor which worked better with the tropical hops. I also fermented at 72 for what it's worth. Didn't get as much of a "bursting with hops" character. I think if I try it again I'd layer in some Centennial or Simcoe, which might work with the slightly lighter body/crisper feel.

 

[mintyice]

Just picked up some Imperial Juice. I'll try it out in a NEIPA soon.

 

[jpb2716]

I have done a few batches recently with no dry hop keg - both dry hops in primary and then transfer down dip tube.... no screen on dip tube. That has worked well. My beers drop out pretty well, with most debris falling into cone of SS brew bucket.

Hey Brau,

When you do all of your dry hopping in the primary, are you cold crashing before transferring to the serving keg or just dealing with whatever hop debris is still left in suspension?

Thanks again!

 

[Braufessor]

Hey Brau,

When you do all of your dry hopping in the primary, are you cold crashing before transferring to the serving keg or just dealing with whatever hop debris is still left in suspension?

Thanks again!

I don't cold crash. I just let it settle out.... That may or may not work for everyone depending on process/system.

 

[grassfeeder]

Just picked up some Imperial Juice. I'll try it out in a NEIPA soon.

just blew a keg of mine using this yeast. Absolutely love it. Also make sure to try out the Imperial Dryhop yeast as well.

 

[BrewinSoldier]

Mine is done as well..Came out too dry, which had to do with my FG being 1.005. still very drinkable but not as sweet as Julius or some others like I was hoping for. Next time I may try using Conan instead of 1318. If I do use 1318 again, it won't be with a starter.

 

[jjw5015]

Mine is done as well..Came out too dry, which had to do with my FG being 1.005. still very drinkable but not as sweet as Julius or some others like I was hoping for. Next time I may try using Conan instead of 1318. If I do use 1318 again, it won't be with a starter.

I wouldn't not use a starter, just mash higher next time

 

[mintyice]

Finally did a writeup of that Funk Weapon #2 NEIPA I did. Enjoy!

https://latchkeybrewing.com/2017/02/20/sippin-on-funk-juice/

 

[Braufessor]

Finally did a writeup of that Funk Weapon #2 NEIPA I did. Enjoy!

https://latchkeybrewing.com/2017/02/20/sippin-on-funk-juice/

Nice write up. I did a version of this with Funk Weapon #2 after I saw your post a while back. It has been in primary a week now. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out in a few weeks.

 

[jpb2716]

Finally did a writeup of that Funk Weapon #2 NEIPA I did. Enjoy!

https://latchkeybrewing.com/2017/02/20/sippin-on-funk-juice/

Wow, that sounds delicious!

 

[cegan09]

That really does sound awesome.

Not being familiar with bootleg, is everything a once and done release? I'd love to try something similar, but looks like #2 is sold out.

 

[Braufessor]

That really does sound awesome.

Not being familiar with bootleg, is everything a once and done release? I'd love to try something similar, but looks like #2 is sold out.

They are not one and done.... but not always available either. I managed to find some at this site a couple weeks ago....
https://allseasonsnashville.com

I had e-mailed Bootleg and it sounded like they might be releasing it again at the end of this month maybe??

 

[cegan09]

Awesome, thank you. I might email to ask the same thing. I don't need it immediately, but right from them would be good.

 

[JohnK93]

Hey all,

Planning on brewing this recipe (scaled up to get to about 6% ABV, and I'm thinking of a Citra/Galaxy combo) and wanted to ask if my planned water adjustments look OK. This is only my second batch with water adjustments and my first wasn't great, mainly because I forgot to add the lactic acid and my pH was probably too high. Assuming I remember to add all the salts and lactic acid, how does this look for a NEIPA?

Mashing profile targets are:
Calcium: 111
Magnesium: 14
Sodium: 7
Sulfate: 59
Chloride: 121
Estimated Mash pH: 5.35

One specific question is whether I should be acidifying to the sparge water. I assume this is typical as it is the default setting in Brun Water.

Thanks,
John

 

[Braufessor]

Hey all,

Planning on brewing this recipe (scaled up to get to about 6% ABV, and I'm thinking of a Citra/Galaxy combo) and wanted to ask if my planned water adjustments look OK. This is only my second batch with water adjustments and my first wasn't great, mainly because I forgot to add the lactic acid and my pH was probably too high. Assuming I remember to add all the salts and lactic acid, how does this look for a NEIPA?

Mashing profile targets are:
Calcium: 111
Magnesium: 14
Sodium: 7
Sulfate: 59
Chloride: 121
Estimated Mash pH: 5.35

One specific question is whether I should be acidifying to the sparge water. I assume this is typical as it is the default setting in Brun Water.

Thanks,
John

With your bicarbonate level where it is, I would add some acid to the sparge water..... say 1ml for sure. Make sure you take a mash pH sample and then I would also take a pH reading of the pre-boil wort to see where that sits. That way you will have a reference point from this batch that you can use in the future to adjust if necessary.

I usually find mash pH of 5.35-5.45 and I like my pre-boil wort pH to be somewhere in that range as well.

 

[motosapiens]

Hey Brau,

When you do all of your dry hopping in the primary, are you cold crashing before transferring to the serving keg or just dealing with whatever hop debris is still left in suspension?

Thanks again!

i find that lowering the temp even to 50 degrees or so (sort of a cool fender-bender) will cause all the hops debris to drop to the bottom.

 

[JohnK93]

With your bicarbonate level where it is, I would add some acid to the sparge water..... say 1ml for sure. Make sure you take a mash pH sample and then I would also take a pH reading of the pre-boil wort to see where that sits. That way you will have a reference point from this batch that you can use in the future to adjust if necessary.

I usually find mash pH of 5.35-5.45 and I like my pre-boil wort pH to be somewhere in that range as well.

Thanks. Unfortunately I only have pH test strips, which I know are not very accurate but will have to do until I have money for a pH meter.

If Brun Water is suggeting that I add 3.5mL to the sparge water, why do you think that 1mL is sufficient? Any reason not to add 3.5mL?

Thanks again,
John

 

[NothingRhymesWithCurtiss]

I'm going to attempt a partial-mash NE IPA based on what I have on hand.

Edited based on feedback.

5.5 Gallons
OG Est 1.085
FG Est 1.021
79 Calculated IBUS

• 7lb 2 Row
• 2lb Flaked Oats
• 1lb Pale Wheat
• 6lb Amber LME (Late Addition)

Mash @ 154° F - 60 Minute Boil

• 0.25oz Warrior @60
• 0.5oz Azacca @15
• 0.5oz El Dorado @15
• 0.5oz Jarrylo @15
• 0.5oz Azacca @FO - 30 Minute WP
• 0.5oz El Dorado @FO - 30 Minute WP
• 0.5oz Jarrylo @FO - 30 Minute WP
  
  
• 0.5oz Azacca - Dryhop 2 Days Into Fermentation
• 0.5oz El Dorado - Dryhop 2 Days Into Fermentation
• 0.5oz Jarrylo - Dryhop 2 Days Into Fermentation
• 0.5oz Azacca - Dryhop 6 Days Into Fermentation
• 0.5oz El Dorado - Dryhop 6 Days Into Fermentation
• 0.5oz Jarrylo - Dryhop 6 Days Into Fermentation

London Ale III @ 65° F for 12 Days
Bottle condition 1 week @ 65° F

This is my first time using Azacca, El Dorado and Jarrylo, but from what I have read, they should place nicely together. I also have 2oz of Mosaic, 4oz of Centennial, and 3oz of Citra that I could swap in? Another thought was to forgo the Warrior at 60 and move the 15 minute additions to FWH. Any thoughts/feedback are appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[g-star]

Mine is done as well..Came out too dry, which had to do with my FG being 1.005. still very drinkable but not as sweet as Julius or some others like I was hoping for. Next time I may try using Conan instead of 1318. If I do use 1318 again, it won't be with a starter.

I just used 1318 with a standard size starter (.75M cells/ml/*P) on a NE IPA and it finished at 1.014 mashing at 150.

1318 is a not a strong attenuator. To finish at 1.005 suggests an infection, not too much 1318.

 

[JohnConnor]

I just used 1318 with a standard size starter (.75M cells/ml/*P) on a NE IPA and it finished at 1.014 mashing at 150.

1318 is a not a strong attenuator. To finish at 1.005 suggests an infection, not too much 1318.

Speak for yourself; I routinely get 80% when I use 1318.

 

[Braufessor]

Thanks. Unfortunately I only have pH test strips, which I know are not very accurate but will have to do until I have money for a pH meter.

If Brun Water is suggeting that I add 3.5mL to the sparge water, why do you think that 1mL is sufficient? Any reason not to add 3.5mL?

Thanks again,
John

My bad - I did not see the suggested 3.5ml for sparge.... I would add that then to the sparge.

 

[Brew-Dog]

Hey all,

Planning on brewing this recipe (scaled up to get to about 6% ABV, and I'm thinking of a Citra/Galaxy combo) and wanted to ask if my planned water adjustments look OK. This is only my second batch with water adjustments and my first wasn't great, mainly because I forgot to add the lactic acid and my pH was probably too high. Assuming I remember to add all the salts and lactic acid, how does this look for a NEIPA?

Mashing profile targets are:
Calcium: 111
Magnesium: 14
Sodium: 7
Sulfate: 59
Chloride: 121
Estimated Mash pH: 5.35

One specific question is whether I should be acidifying to the sparge water. I assume this is typical as it is the default setting in Brun Water.

Thanks,
John

There is something I'm trying to figure out here. I'm hoping someone can clarify. In the water profile above, it lists Sulfate: 59 and Chloride: 121 for the mashing profile. But if you look at the finished water profile, it's Sulfate: 29, Chloride: 55.

I thought that for this style, the Sulfate and Chloride numbers were more important in the finished beer. Is this not true? Seems like these numbers are pretty low for the finished beer.

 

[JohnK93]

There is something I'm trying to figure out here. I'm hoping someone can clarify. In the water profile above, it lists Sulfate: 59 and Chloride: 121 for the mashing profile. But if you look at the finished water profile, it's Sulfate: 29, Chloride: 55.

I thought that for this style, the Sulfate and Chloride numbers were more important in the finished beer. Is this not true? Seems like these numbers are pretty low for the finished beer.

That's a good question I hadn't considered. The note attached to these cells (that say 29 and 55) indicates "The concentrations shown....are the final concentrations in the kettle. These concentrations may not always reflect the concentrations below since the sparging water concentrations may differ from these value." Since I know that mash pH is critical to the flavor of the beer, I've been targeting the mashing water profile, not finished water profile. I don't know what is more important, mash or finished, but I'd love someone else to chime in.

John

 

[stickyfinger]

Speak for yourself; I routinely get 80% when I use 1318.

i agree. even with VERY high mash temps, I get strong attenuation

 

[BrewinSoldier]

I just used 1318 with a standard size starter (.75M cells/ml/*P) on a NE IPA and it finished at 1.014 mashing at 150.

1318 is a not a strong attenuator. To finish at 1.005 suggests an infection, not too much 1318.

Definitely no infection. The beer still tastes good. No off flavors. Just dry without the sweetness I was hoping for.

I did let the starter go for 3 days which probably built the yeast starter too much, and I could've mashed a little higher. I think I was a 152-153. Next time I'll shoot for 155-156.

 

[ryangt15]

So I just brewed this over the weekend, I used Citra, motueka, and galaxy hops. I did the flame out, and whirlpool hops but then last second I tried something different, I added 1oz of each of the hops right into the fermenter and racked the wort right on top of that and pitched the yeast.... and man does my house reek... in a good way. I used the yeast bay's Vermont ale strain. Very excited to try this beer out.

 

[stickyfinger]

So I just brewed this over the weekend, I used Citra, motueka, and galaxy hops. I did the flame out, and whirlpool hops but then I tried something different. I added 1oz of each of the hops right into the fermenter and racked the wort right on top of that and pitched the yeast.... and man does my house reek... in a good way. I used the yeast bay's Vermont ale strain. Very excited to try this beer out.

always wanted to try that but worried i'd lose hops in blowoff or clog my tube