New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[mintyice]

Finally did a writeup of that Funk Weapon #2 NEIPA I did. Enjoy!

https://latchkeybrewing.com/2017/02/20/sippin-on-funk-juice/

 

[Braufessor]

Finally did a writeup of that Funk Weapon #2 NEIPA I did. Enjoy!

https://latchkeybrewing.com/2017/02/20/sippin-on-funk-juice/

Nice write up. I did a version of this with Funk Weapon #2 after I saw your post a while back. It has been in primary a week now. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out in a few weeks.

 

[jpb2716]

Finally did a writeup of that Funk Weapon #2 NEIPA I did. Enjoy!

https://latchkeybrewing.com/2017/02/20/sippin-on-funk-juice/

Wow, that sounds delicious!

 

[cegan09]

That really does sound awesome.

Not being familiar with bootleg, is everything a once and done release? I'd love to try something similar, but looks like #2 is sold out.

 

[Braufessor]

That really does sound awesome.

Not being familiar with bootleg, is everything a once and done release? I'd love to try something similar, but looks like #2 is sold out.

They are not one and done.... but not always available either. I managed to find some at this site a couple weeks ago....
https://allseasonsnashville.com

I had e-mailed Bootleg and it sounded like they might be releasing it again at the end of this month maybe??

 

[cegan09]

Awesome, thank you. I might email to ask the same thing. I don't need it immediately, but right from them would be good.

 

[JohnK93]

Hey all,

Planning on brewing this recipe (scaled up to get to about 6% ABV, and I'm thinking of a Citra/Galaxy combo) and wanted to ask if my planned water adjustments look OK. This is only my second batch with water adjustments and my first wasn't great, mainly because I forgot to add the lactic acid and my pH was probably too high. Assuming I remember to add all the salts and lactic acid, how does this look for a NEIPA?

Mashing profile targets are:
Calcium: 111
Magnesium: 14
Sodium: 7
Sulfate: 59
Chloride: 121
Estimated Mash pH: 5.35

One specific question is whether I should be acidifying to the sparge water. I assume this is typical as it is the default setting in Brun Water.

Thanks,
John

 

[Braufessor]

Hey all,

Planning on brewing this recipe (scaled up to get to about 6% ABV, and I'm thinking of a Citra/Galaxy combo) and wanted to ask if my planned water adjustments look OK. This is only my second batch with water adjustments and my first wasn't great, mainly because I forgot to add the lactic acid and my pH was probably too high. Assuming I remember to add all the salts and lactic acid, how does this look for a NEIPA?

Mashing profile targets are:
Calcium: 111
Magnesium: 14
Sodium: 7
Sulfate: 59
Chloride: 121
Estimated Mash pH: 5.35

One specific question is whether I should be acidifying to the sparge water. I assume this is typical as it is the default setting in Brun Water.

Thanks,
John

With your bicarbonate level where it is, I would add some acid to the sparge water..... say 1ml for sure. Make sure you take a mash pH sample and then I would also take a pH reading of the pre-boil wort to see where that sits. That way you will have a reference point from this batch that you can use in the future to adjust if necessary.

I usually find mash pH of 5.35-5.45 and I like my pre-boil wort pH to be somewhere in that range as well.

 

[motosapiens]

Hey Brau,

When you do all of your dry hopping in the primary, are you cold crashing before transferring to the serving keg or just dealing with whatever hop debris is still left in suspension?

Thanks again!

i find that lowering the temp even to 50 degrees or so (sort of a cool fender-bender) will cause all the hops debris to drop to the bottom.

 

[JohnK93]

With your bicarbonate level where it is, I would add some acid to the sparge water..... say 1ml for sure. Make sure you take a mash pH sample and then I would also take a pH reading of the pre-boil wort to see where that sits. That way you will have a reference point from this batch that you can use in the future to adjust if necessary.

I usually find mash pH of 5.35-5.45 and I like my pre-boil wort pH to be somewhere in that range as well.

Thanks. Unfortunately I only have pH test strips, which I know are not very accurate but will have to do until I have money for a pH meter.

If Brun Water is suggeting that I add 3.5mL to the sparge water, why do you think that 1mL is sufficient? Any reason not to add 3.5mL?

Thanks again,
John

 

[NothingRhymesWithCurtiss]

I'm going to attempt a partial-mash NE IPA based on what I have on hand.

Edited based on feedback.

5.5 Gallons
OG Est 1.085
FG Est 1.021
79 Calculated IBUS

• 7lb 2 Row
• 2lb Flaked Oats
• 1lb Pale Wheat
• 6lb Amber LME (Late Addition)

Mash @ 154° F - 60 Minute Boil

• 0.25oz Warrior @60
• 0.5oz Azacca @15
• 0.5oz El Dorado @15
• 0.5oz Jarrylo @15
• 0.5oz Azacca @FO - 30 Minute WP
• 0.5oz El Dorado @FO - 30 Minute WP
• 0.5oz Jarrylo @FO - 30 Minute WP
  
  
• 0.5oz Azacca - Dryhop 2 Days Into Fermentation
• 0.5oz El Dorado - Dryhop 2 Days Into Fermentation
• 0.5oz Jarrylo - Dryhop 2 Days Into Fermentation
• 0.5oz Azacca - Dryhop 6 Days Into Fermentation
• 0.5oz El Dorado - Dryhop 6 Days Into Fermentation
• 0.5oz Jarrylo - Dryhop 6 Days Into Fermentation

London Ale III @ 65° F for 12 Days
Bottle condition 1 week @ 65° F

This is my first time using Azacca, El Dorado and Jarrylo, but from what I have read, they should place nicely together. I also have 2oz of Mosaic, 4oz of Centennial, and 3oz of Citra that I could swap in? Another thought was to forgo the Warrior at 60 and move the 15 minute additions to FWH. Any thoughts/feedback are appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[g-star]

Mine is done as well..Came out too dry, which had to do with my FG being 1.005. still very drinkable but not as sweet as Julius or some others like I was hoping for. Next time I may try using Conan instead of 1318. If I do use 1318 again, it won't be with a starter.

I just used 1318 with a standard size starter (.75M cells/ml/*P) on a NE IPA and it finished at 1.014 mashing at 150.

1318 is a not a strong attenuator. To finish at 1.005 suggests an infection, not too much 1318.

 

[JohnConnor]

I just used 1318 with a standard size starter (.75M cells/ml/*P) on a NE IPA and it finished at 1.014 mashing at 150.

1318 is a not a strong attenuator. To finish at 1.005 suggests an infection, not too much 1318.

Speak for yourself; I routinely get 80% when I use 1318.

 

[Braufessor]

Thanks. Unfortunately I only have pH test strips, which I know are not very accurate but will have to do until I have money for a pH meter.

If Brun Water is suggeting that I add 3.5mL to the sparge water, why do you think that 1mL is sufficient? Any reason not to add 3.5mL?

Thanks again,
John

My bad - I did not see the suggested 3.5ml for sparge.... I would add that then to the sparge.

 

[Brew-Dog]

Hey all,

Planning on brewing this recipe (scaled up to get to about 6% ABV, and I'm thinking of a Citra/Galaxy combo) and wanted to ask if my planned water adjustments look OK. This is only my second batch with water adjustments and my first wasn't great, mainly because I forgot to add the lactic acid and my pH was probably too high. Assuming I remember to add all the salts and lactic acid, how does this look for a NEIPA?

Mashing profile targets are:
Calcium: 111
Magnesium: 14
Sodium: 7
Sulfate: 59
Chloride: 121
Estimated Mash pH: 5.35

One specific question is whether I should be acidifying to the sparge water. I assume this is typical as it is the default setting in Brun Water.

Thanks,
John

There is something I'm trying to figure out here. I'm hoping someone can clarify. In the water profile above, it lists Sulfate: 59 and Chloride: 121 for the mashing profile. But if you look at the finished water profile, it's Sulfate: 29, Chloride: 55.

I thought that for this style, the Sulfate and Chloride numbers were more important in the finished beer. Is this not true? Seems like these numbers are pretty low for the finished beer.

 

[JohnK93]

There is something I'm trying to figure out here. I'm hoping someone can clarify. In the water profile above, it lists Sulfate: 59 and Chloride: 121 for the mashing profile. But if you look at the finished water profile, it's Sulfate: 29, Chloride: 55.

I thought that for this style, the Sulfate and Chloride numbers were more important in the finished beer. Is this not true? Seems like these numbers are pretty low for the finished beer.

That's a good question I hadn't considered. The note attached to these cells (that say 29 and 55) indicates "The concentrations shown....are the final concentrations in the kettle. These concentrations may not always reflect the concentrations below since the sparging water concentrations may differ from these value." Since I know that mash pH is critical to the flavor of the beer, I've been targeting the mashing water profile, not finished water profile. I don't know what is more important, mash or finished, but I'd love someone else to chime in.

John

 

[stickyfinger]

Speak for yourself; I routinely get 80% when I use 1318.

i agree. even with VERY high mash temps, I get strong attenuation

 

[BrewinSoldier]

I just used 1318 with a standard size starter (.75M cells/ml/*P) on a NE IPA and it finished at 1.014 mashing at 150.

1318 is a not a strong attenuator. To finish at 1.005 suggests an infection, not too much 1318.

Definitely no infection. The beer still tastes good. No off flavors. Just dry without the sweetness I was hoping for.

I did let the starter go for 3 days which probably built the yeast starter too much, and I could've mashed a little higher. I think I was a 152-153. Next time I'll shoot for 155-156.

 

[ryangt15]

So I just brewed this over the weekend, I used Citra, motueka, and galaxy hops. I did the flame out, and whirlpool hops but then last second I tried something different, I added 1oz of each of the hops right into the fermenter and racked the wort right on top of that and pitched the yeast.... and man does my house reek... in a good way. I used the yeast bay's Vermont ale strain. Very excited to try this beer out.

 

[stickyfinger]

So I just brewed this over the weekend, I used Citra, motueka, and galaxy hops. I did the flame out, and whirlpool hops but then I tried something different. I added 1oz of each of the hops right into the fermenter and racked the wort right on top of that and pitched the yeast.... and man does my house reek... in a good way. I used the yeast bay's Vermont ale strain. Very excited to try this beer out.

always wanted to try that but worried i'd lose hops in blowoff or clog my tube

 

[ryangt15]

always wanted to try that but worried i'd lose hops in blowoff or clog my tube

I have a 6.5 gal fermenter, batch size into it was 5.5 gal so had plenty of head room, so I wasn't too worried. I highly recommend it if you have a big enough fermenter.

 

[stickyfinger]

are u questioning the size of my fermenter? seriously, i fill mine too full. should cut back to 5.5-5.75

 

[ryangt15]

I have done that many of times with a RIS i brew.... and I get the wonderful job of clean up... and i use a blow off lol.

 

[plazola86]

They are not one and done.... but not always available either. I managed to find some at this site a couple weeks ago....
https://allseasonsnashville.com

I had e-mailed Bootleg and it sounded like they might be releasing it again at the end of this month maybe??

I already have three different yeast strains in my fridge but this one sounds like I need to give it a try. Brau keep us posted on the final verdict on this one.

 

[mintyice]

I already have three different yeast strains in my fridge but this one sounds like I need to give it a try. Brau keep us posted on the final verdict on this one.

What, my opinion isn't good enough?

 

[plazola86]

What, my opinion isn't good enough?

I've actually read your bloq twice about your beer! This yeast sounds like something I want to always keep on hand. I'm currently working with a strain produced by an HBT member in Finland who combined/mated (not sure about the science) conan and wlp644 together.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=577066

 

[milldoggy]

I've actually read your bloq twice about your beer! This yeast sounds like something I want to always keep on hand. I'm currently working with a strain produced by an HBT member in Finland who combined/mated (not sure about the science) conan and wlp644 together.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=577066

Doing the same, just cold crashed, cant wait to keg this weekend, used f1.

 

[weskarl]

Had followed Brau's hop additions for my first 2 extract batches, both came out awesome. One with Simcoe, Galaxy & Citra and 1217 & the other with Mosaic, Galaxy & Citra and 1318. Both hazy until they kicked.

Ventured into my first batch of all grain following the recipe on post #1418 but with WLP095 with a 1L starter.

OG 1.049 / FG 1.007 / 5.5%

Both dry hops in primary (did not like messing with keg hops), racked to the keg from primary under CO2 on day 12, carbed for 24 hours @ 30 psi. This was the first pour yesterday. Needs a couple of more days to carb up, but hot damn:

 

[motosapiens]

There is something I'm trying to figure out here. I'm hoping someone can clarify. In the water profile above, it lists Sulfate: 59 and Chloride: 121 for the mashing profile. But if you look at the finished water profile, it's Sulfate: 29, Chloride: 55.

I thought that for this style, the Sulfate and Chloride numbers were more important in the finished beer. Is this not true? Seems like these numbers are pretty low for the finished beer.

actual finished water *Adjustment*. it's telling you how much ppm of minerals you need to add based on the desired water profile you selected on line 5. none of the desired profiles really apply to NEIPA, so i just ignore it.

 

[motosapiens]

I'm going to attempt a partial-mash NE IPA based on what I have on hand.


[*]0.5oz Azacca - Dryhop 4 Days Into Fermentation
[*]0.5oz El Dorado - Dryhop 4 Days Into Fermentation
[*]0.5oz Jarrylo - Dryhop 4 Days Into Fermentation
[*]0.5oz Azacca - Dryhop 3 Days Post Fermentation
[*]0.5oz El Dorado - Dryhop 3 Days Post Fermentation
[*]0.5oz Jarrylo - Dryhop 3 Days Post Fermentation
[/LIST]

my only question is why are you waiting 4 days before adding the first dry hops? All 3 times I have made NEIPA in the last few months, using 1318, my gravity was at or under 1.020 by 48 hrs, so I have just adopted the habit of throwing in the first dry hops 2 days after pitching the yeast, and then the 2nd addition 4 days later (total of 6 days after pitching).